What are ways to fix speaker dips in my speaker or audio room


I have recently hired an acoustic engineer and after a day of measuring room acoustics and he came back with what I needed to fix and one of my speakers dip at 54 HZ and would DSP help or a lot of bass traps in the frequency work better?
128x128shawarma
Ask the engineer you hired... You hired a professional and you're asking joe blow about your room. You lost me..

Wish you the best ay..

Regards
Well, did he make recommendations for what he thinks you should do? He has analyzed your room and I would follow his advice rather than ask us who know nothing about your room.

DSP and bass traps (you can use them together, BTW) can help to correct the room response. If your room has a lot of reflective surfaces, use rugs, curtains or other treatments to reduce room echo.
Everything I have done what the acoustic engineer told me to do my problem is that 1speaker is louder than the other by 0.83 db 
I’m mainly wondering if that affects the imaging and sound stage?
one of my speakers dip at 54 HZ and would DSP help
That is due to the speaker/room interaction. Boosting at that frequency would not fix the problem and could lead to driver damage due to over excursion. Move the speaker or your listening position to minimize the issue. The acoustic engineer should have been able to tell you this and point you in the right direction.
I seriously doubt you would find very many speakers if any that would match within 1db.  Any measurements in room and below 200hz are subject to room interactions.  Now if you were talking about a difference of 5db or more, it may or may not be beneficial to minimize that difference.
You are worrying about a non existent problem.
"You are worrying about a non existent problem"
I see a lot of that going on. 
Post removed 
Help me out Shawarma.   Room dimensions will help.  Equipment and brands.  Windows, bare walls, tile or hardwood floors, sheetrock, rugs, drapes?   Can you hear or perceive the difference between speakers?  
My room is 9x6 meters and I’m using the long wall and the associated components are.

source: Lumin x1, Ayon CD 10, and for vinyl SME Model 20/2 with a Kuzma 4 point 9 tone arm is switch between 3 MC cartridges 

components PS audio stellar phono preamp, and audio research ref 6se and the amps are XA60.8 powered by the ps audio p12 power plant
Soundwise it is counter-intuitive to place the speakers along the long wall.  I read in a recent review that the 10 best sounding concert halls were all rectangles with the orchestra at a short end.

You have a good size room but the speakers should be placed well away from the back wall (especially dipoles which need 6 feet ideally).  You should not sit too near the other backwall either, or you receive bounced signals off the backwall that at some frequencies are out of phase with the signal direct from the speakers.

In your room as it is if the speakers are six feet from the back wall and you are six feet from the other backwall then you are sitting six feet away from the plane of the speakers which is too close.  So you call in an engineer to advise you about all the room treatment you need.

If you can change the orientation you should do so.  You will need much less room treatment.
Is that your room in your profile picture? Lot of glass? Have you tried the test with the PS Audio power removed?
Use the short wall, as mentioned. If you're not open to that. Try a few things to that should help regardless. Looks like you have tile floors. Place another rug (long and narrow) along the front wall where your speakers and amps rest...from wall to wall. Rugs/softening the room at the boundaries helps a ton.

That cleaned up the bass response in my room. I also bought a bigger central rug. 
Maybe you should purchase new speakers or hire a different sound engineer.  
You hired a "professional" to listen to a home stereo.

Time to find a hobby outdoors. Stay off the forums.
Hello,
That is like a mechanic saying you have squeaky breaks but not tell you how to fix them. He could have done a near field test to make sure one speaker is not hotter than the other on its own or swapped the speakers to see if it is the speaker or the electronics. You can test that yourself with an SPL app on your phone and stream 1khz pink or brown noise. Once you narrow it down to the speaker or component you can address that issue. It might be as easy as adjusting the output bias on the amp with a voltage meter. IF YOU ARE NOT FAMILIAR PLEASE FIND A PROFESSIONAL TO SET THAT FOR YOU. Capacitors can change and you need to recalibrate. Start with swapping the right and left interconnects from a source to see if it is on one channel and not the speakers while using the SPL App. Always room treatment before DSP. If it isn’t any of your equipment or speakers it means it’s the room. If you can play with speaker setup. 1/4” at a time. Wilson has been studying this for a while. If your speakers are rear ported you might need defusers behind your speakers or on the back wall. 1. Find out if it’s the room, speakers, or the electronics. 2. Address that issue as stated above
3. Always room treatment and or speaker placement before DSP. I hope this helped because I know your sound engineer did not. 
I have recently hired an acoustic engineer and after a day of measuring room acoustics and he came back with what I needed to fix and one of my speakers dip at 54 HZ and would DSP help or a lot of bass traps in the frequency work better?
@shawarma
If you are really talking about a dip of only .8dB at this frequency, its not a concern. Imaging will not be affected in the slightest.

If the dip is 8dB and not 0.8dB, then as long as the speaker itself is OK, its unlikely that bass traps and DSP will help out, since the dip will be caused by a standing wave. To fix that you have to break up the standing wave, and that is done by using at least a couple of subwoofers that are asymmetrically placed in your room (assuming that the main speakers are otherwise full frequency). The asymmetry is what breaks up the standing waves. The subs must not have any output above 80Hz or else they will attract attention to themselves.
54hz dip is probably the ceiling cancelation in a room with your geometry. 
How tall is your ceiling? 54hz is a 5’ quarter wave (see chart below, 54hz is 20 feet long). So most likely the ceiling.
Moving the speakes around probably will not fix it as the ceiling height is fixed. I have a similar issue. You can trap the ceiling (which I did) and it helped a bit but not as much as I had hoped. Subs with DSP, preamp with tone controls or an equalizer are probably the realistic options.

http://www.soundoctor.com/freq.htm
Edit: my ceiling is 2.8 meters tall 

Ok imagine a prison cell I mean the bars of the cell my ceiling is made of wood, the wood that goes along my entire ceiling works exactly like a baffle so I’m guessing a lot of the bass just stay up there the acoustic engineer just says I don’t need anything up there it’s like one “BIG ASS BAFFLE ”

my ceiling is made from wood nothing else 

my acoustic engineer said I don’t need absorbers because of my ceiling there is no echo and it’s pretty lively sounding do to the sound leaving the room

Not sure this information is necessary:)
and me being all over the place with my grammar.
Shawarma, the wavelengths are too long to be affected by your ceiling in any meaningful way. At higher frequencies yes but, not in the bass. If you use a digital preamp like The DEQX Premate, the MiniDSP , The Anthem SLR or the Trinnov Amethyst you can correct this at the listening position nicely but there will still be areas in the room that will be out. Play a bass heavy song and walk around your room. You will hear the character of the bass change as you move around. If you move the measurement mic just a few feet you will get an entirely different frequency response curve. It is just the nature of the beast. Some rooms are better than others. Bass is particularly difficult and all the room treatment in the world will not change that. Room treatments are very useful at higher frequencies. Best is to use speakers with controlled limited dispersion but still bass will be a problem. This can be fixed at the listening position with DSP at the expense of amplifier power and worse response at other places in the room. 
This can be fixed at the listening position with DSP at the expense of amplifier power
In fact you may clip the amps with ease yet not fix the problem of a loss of bass. This is because the waveform is cancelling itself out. You can put a lot of power into that and not get anywhere.

That is why I recommended a Distributed Bass Array (multiple subs) since that will break up the cancellation. Then you can dial it in with the DSP if you want, but that will be minor compared to what the DBA will do.