Spade vs. banana plug

You pretty much got it, although bare wire whether through the hole or around the post count as one way.  The fifth is "double banana" plug.  The spacing between the red and black post is a standard distance, so a solid spacer could hold both banana jacks at the correct spacing to be inserted all at once (talk about the ultimate in lazy man convenience).

@larryi

Spade, banana, pin tip plug or straight wire through post hole, and hooked wire around post

When I look at my banana plugs, the first thing that comes to mind is always bananas. A perfectly named connector.

Here is an audiophile test question:

Some binding posts are described as 5-way binding posts.  What are the five ways to connect speaker wire that are being accommodated by these types of binding posts?

Two companies that place a high priority on measurements, Benchmark and Purifi, use SpeakOn connections at the amp end. 

I am going to try SpeakOn terminated speaker wire with the AHB2 amp that I just bought. I will compare them with my existing Audience Conductor SE speaker wire and it's Banana plugs at the amp end.

https://www.soundstagehifi.com/index.php/opinion/1420-purifi-audios-pint-sized-powerhouses

Speaking of speakONs . . .

When I unpacked the Eigentakt and SPK5s and saw the Neutrik speakON connectors used throughout, I was relieved that Purifi had also sent a package that included the speakON-terminated cables needed to connect the Eigentakt to the SPK5s’ external crossovers and the crossovers to the speakers, as well as a set of cables terminated with speakONs at one end and banana plugs on the other, for connection to other speakers. Purifi makes these cables themselves, using CLS 425 bulk speaker wire made in Germany by Cardial.

Purifi’s reliance on speakONs intrigued me, so I asked them about it. Lars Risbo:

Nearly all binding posts and/or banana plugs available we found to be magnetic and added measurable hysteric distortion. The cheapest plastic speakON passed the test. It seems that Benchmark Media Systems came to the same conclusion with their very low distortion AHB2 amplifier.

Moreover, we run biwiring through the crossover filter to the speaker box. Using the four-pole speakON, we can join the branches right at the amplifier’s sense point, where the output impedance is extremely low. This effectively blocks leakage of distortion products between the drivers. This makes biwiring actually work.

noromance3,988 posts08-04-2020 9:12pmOld school OCC copper solid core bare wire for me.

Y spades are great, But your right bare wire, through an eyelet and tighten... That is a good connection...Tin the end with silver solder, and you get another sonic nugget.

Regards

Old school OCC copper solid core bare wire for me.

I agree that a good spade lug does offer peace of mind.  But the components ultimately call the shots.  My Primaluna integrated demands spade lugs.  My Nola speakers demand bananas.

Banana plugs are easier to connect/disconnect if you do it often. Spade lugs are generally considered to be the more secure connection. Some banana plugs incorporate an adjustment screw locking them in place -- sort of defeating the concept while (possibly?) making them the spade lugs' equal. Give me a substantial, gold-electroplated, solid-copper alloy spade lug any day of the week and twice on Sundays, thank you. 

The biggest difficulties I’ve noticed are with the material of the connector, more than the type. Nickel or Rhodium plated is bad. Just too hard to make a good connection.

I’ve had really good luck with gold over copper bananas, and WBT locking bananas. Had really terrible luck with Furutech rhodium locking. Literally too small for several speakers, and too had to make a tight fight, as well as deformed easily.

Another type I’d like to try are the WBT spring loaded spades.

Y copper spade with copper nuts and post, shake proof binding washers and a torque wrench. Magic goo, a little dab will do ya, and torque um up.

No torque wrench a good end wrench, will work.. Look up the torque spec for the stud size... Perfect connection..

Or you can just give it a good tug, with an end wrench, plyers, or whatever's handy.. LOL

Regards

An exhaustive series of comparisons seems to be in order, but because spade lug/banana connections always seem located in the part of the components least easily reached, I'll just let somebody else give me the lowdown.

Spade is 10 microseconds slower in removal from speaker lug. Possibly aggravating arthritis from the twisting motion in the hands that many of members have.

Studies have shown cryogenic versions do not have any benefit.

Depends on if you want best sound over the long haul - low mass, gas tight spades give you that.

Spade, banana, unterminated.  

Paper, rock, scissors.  

Read, set, Go!

I found that spades tend to get loss over time. A good tighten is required here and there. Banana plugs, especially the spring type, never get loss.
So, since I use only banana plugs.

I don't have a preference in terms of the effect on the sound but do prefer the Z-plug or BFA style banana connectors. They provide a large contact area and the ability to slightly alter the diameter to fit what are often slightly inconsistent sizes in the diameter of the holes in the binding posts across brands.
LIke this -- https://bit.ly/3kam3Ct

In my mind I always thought banana was a more direct electron flow into the XO, but 2 reliable sources say spades are better

I also hff ave all types,I let my speakers show me what is correct...old vintage amps the connections are really terrible. So that banana plugs ,but some dont .I like to switch equipment around offen....

If construction and termination are done correctly I hear no difference. If I’m using bananas I prefer the ones that are made with a tightening screw that expands the contact points creating better contact.
Example: https://www.thecableco.com/diy-cables-and-connectors/banana/fp-202-g-banana-connector.html
FP-202 (G) Banana Connector by Furutech