OP
I am impressed with your ability to make it all happen simultaneously. Those are some impressive amps, congrats on finding a rare 2nd unit. I just glanced at this:
Stereophile Review of Plinius SA
Sometimes I recommend the idea of potential bridging, i.e. start with an amp that can be bridged, exactly what you did. I think of it more for tube power, hope one affordable/less heat less heavy Stereo Amp is enough power. If not, get a second one (phased spending can be a reason), OR, IF you change to less efficient speakers, NEED more, get a 2nd one. I suspect you are doing it out of ’now or maybe lost opportunity’ more than need.
I recently noticed impedance taps become limited on McIntosh models when bridged, and reading testpilot’s comments, I looked, Plinius only lists 8 ohms when bridged:
"testpilot
You really haven’t experienced the full benefit of “true” dual mono amplifier set up as you are using 2 stereo amplifiers “bridged” where amplifier phase of one channel has been inverted - that is why you are now using the positive L and R terminals for a single speaker. Bridging typically halves the minimum impedance the amplifier can safely handle, lowers the damping factor, and increases THD and noise. Bridged amplifiers are typical limited to speakers with a nominal 8 ohm impedance with no significant dips below 6 ohms. "
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I found this review of Canton Model 3.2 (You mentioned model 3)
Stereophile Review of Canton Reference 3.2
"My estimate of the Canton’s voltage sensitivity was a high 91dB/2.83V/m; this loudspeaker will play loudly with just a few watts. However, its impedance plot (fig.1) indicates that the partnering amplifier needs to be comfortable driving a low impedance. The magnitude remains below 4 ohms for almost the entire bass and midrange regions, with a minimum value of 3 ohms at 360Hz and a current-demanding combination of 4.6 ohms and –45° electrical phase angle at 88Hz, a frequency where music can have high energy levels."
I presume you told Plinius which speakers you have.
When replacing my speaker’s 16 ohm L Pads, I asked here and learned about very slight frequency shifts if I used 8 ohm taps on my Cayin instead of it’s 16 ohm taps, and that some guitarists choose which tap to use to purposely get slightly different sounds out of their tube amps playing live.
Your Canton’s 91 sensitivity helps (assuming 3.2 and 3 are the same), you shouldn’t need to push them hard, and bi-wire using different cable type for lows is still an interesting option, your speaker’s readily provide for that.
Your amp offers class a (whole lotta heat) and class ab (a timed 10 minute switch?), are you able to easily or always hear differences, or do you use class a only for special content, short periods, all winter?