Mains Power Cable DIY

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@vthokie83 Thank You for the request.

Typically Swapping out Wall Socket Connectors and IEC's on a Cable is reasonably straight forward.

A Multimeter will enable continuity testing of Wires once terminated.

The last time I produced a Cable I discarded the Spades, as I was having continuity issues, when terminating.

As for Metal used in a Plug Connector, Pure Copper without Plating is the preferred, but that is based on Copper Wire > Copper Terminations. I have not Annaly been checking Brass with a Coating or Copper with a Coating, so am not able to comment.

My experiences to date is that Digital and SS will benefit the most, in relation to discernable changes to the end sound being discovered and 50+ Hours of usage will have a different Cable in use that one with a few hours.

If a device with little value has an IEC, this can be used to assist with increasing the hours of usage.  

Not to sell you short and also a method that might need for you to Talk to a Electrician or a Forum Member with savvy.

The connectors in the link are Pure Copper and removes contact pins in the routing of Power Cables into Plug Sockets.

This is the method I am at present most likely to adopt.

I am at present working my way through the issues and alternative options where there will be removal of Fuses.

I take professional guidance on all Matters Electrical and Electronical.

Pindac and all,

I know this is an older thread, but wanted to see if any of you are still around on this subject. I went a little "manic" and bought a ton of high quality cable to build my own DIY power cables. I have: Neotech NEP 3002 and 3003 UPOCC, Furutech FP-OS32 "Alpha nano", Furutech TCS031 Triple C, Furutech FP-S55N "Alpha nano", Oyaide Tunami 102 SSC, Acoustic Revive 8800 Triple C, and Monosaudio 902 and 903 OFC cables.

For connectors I've got Viborg VF-502 and VF-508 silver plated, Sonarquest P-25/C-25, IeGO 8065 silver plate and 8085 gold plate, and Furutech F-11 and F-28 gold plated.

The problem that I created (even though they are first world problems) is that I really do not know where to start as far and connector and cable matching. Second I have seen two ways of connecting the cables to the connectors: one is using the bare wire and then using a spade such as the FP-209 (gold or rhodium) at the end of the cable and connecting that to the power connectors.

Furutech's own website and videos show using the FP-209 rhodium as the intermediate step and use those to connect to the power connectors.

Any help here would be much appreciated, as these are my first power cables I'm DIYing.....but I do have the proper crimping and soldering tools and experience.

Been using furutech's unsheilded alpha 3 for amp/conditioner for sometime now...never a problem.. with anything.Looking over venhaus's power cable construction explains some of the need or not.

I am thinking to construct williewonka's Helix power cable. But one question is on my mind:

General question:

Doesn't shielding degrade sound quality? It's needed when it's needed but does that mean always?

Shielded Twisted pair: Can't the shield be used as the ground conductor? Why the need for separate ground conductor?

When discovering PC Triple C Wire, I was to become curious and the first experience had using it was with Cart' Tag Wires.

Enough was detected through the usage as Tag Wires in the SQ to motivate and extend the experience of the Wire in the Vinyl Source Signal Path, which resulted in a Din > RCA - PC Triple C Wire Cable being tried out.

The New Cable was permanently put to use, following with the system being  subjected to PC Triple C Wire being used at most interfaces.   

@smaarch1

What is PC Triple C

Ok, since you asked:

Japanese PC Triple C copper is made in Japan’s Furukawa plant and is the next-generation version of the Japanese Ohno (Continuous Crystal) copper (a.k.a., Ohno continuous Cast Copper - OCC). Furutech’s PC Triple C stands for Pure Copper Continuous Crystal Construction.

After the "Continuous Crystal Construction" process is complete, further processing by the "Transfer Forging Method" produces thinner gauges of wire. The forging process dramatically improves conductor density by removing oxygen, which improves the conductivity of the copper. A lengthy temperature and time controlled annealing process is then carried out according to the thickness of the wire, causing the crystals to fuse with each other, creating an even more linear crystal structure.

Annealed copper became the international standard to which all other electrical conductors are compared and, in 1913, the International Annealed Copper Standard designated commercially pure annealed copper to have conductivity of 100% IACS. Electrolytic-tough pitch (ETP) copper (ASTM C11040) is the main grade of copper used for electrical applications and is at least 99.90% pure with electrical conductivity of 101% IACS. Oxygen-free copper (OFC - ASTM C10100) is about 1% more conductive and achieves a minimum of 101% IACS.

When asked what the deal was with PC OCC copper, one industry professional replied,

One word: Marketing. Same as with OFC years earlier.

The issue is not whether there are differences in the wire, but whether those differences are reliably audible...which is for another thread.

Power cable ...furutech triple c wire.Yes that was a good move.Now get some nice maple slabs and report back.Some of littlest tweaks reap nice changes.

What I will  say is  this:  I  removed everything from the glass shelfs  - this has made a huge difference.

Okay  call me stupid
What is PC Triple C

My Experience to date, is that the PC Triple C requires a burn in period, where the time period to produce the most noticeable change has been with it being used with Speakers.

The PC Triple C has from my experiences, shown change as a betterment almost immediately when used on a Digital Source and SS items, especially SS Phonostages and other SS Amplification.

PC Triple C from my experiences has a much more subtle effect for the better, when used on Valve Equipment, the effect made, once recognised (which might be related to a burn in period), is enough to assure oneself, it is worthwhile maintaining.

I am also an advocate of D.U.C.C Wire as well, when used as an Interconnect with both Pure Silver and Pure Copper RCA's. My experiences of using this Wire is one where it has been detected the Wire is capable of adding a hint of weight / richness and not being compromised in any of the attractive revealing qualities.     

Conclusion;

The cable made no significant change on my table. Maybe I'll try it out on my amp, which has an Ice Age cable there already. 

"Rite from the start, I noticed a brighter screen"...great imaging huh? 😉

Follow up on: 

I 've been making own my power cables for years now. This morning I purchased; FURUTECH FP-S35TC PC-TripleC new technology & Schuko Furutech FI-E50 FI-50M FI-50 NCF Nano Crystal. I believe in burn in, so I'm going to switch out my Refrigerator line for about 3 weeks. I'll keep you updated.

Just finished making my cord for my TT. I decided to use the plug on my Computer instead of the Refrigerator. Rite from the start, I noticed a brighter screen, but that's not saying much for the stock cord. I'm going to leave it in til next week & then try it out on the table...

I have made myself a well known advocate of using PC Triple C Wire on the ’Gon’ and in my social activities relating to Audio.

@danmar123 has referenced the wire in use in Furutech Cables.

I have been quite influential in encouraging others to adopt the usage of PC Triple C Wire and there has been a few take the usage much more serious than I have.

There have been a Variety of Trials done by others using different wire gauges, as well as Stranded vs Solid and different Connectors used both on Cables and Chassis/Speakers.

A few of my own Cables have been loaned to be compared against using these cables selected for trials.

PC Triple C wire certainly has created a interest and want to get the best from it as a wire, within my social circles that are not usually mustered by other wire types.

It is now also be used as Tonearm Internal Wand Wire, the only other place this wire is found used within a wand is the SAEC Tonearm @ $13K to purchase.

I have made the wire known in the Helix Thread and a few have adopted it and made attractive comments about how they perceived it in use.

From the individuals who were comparing the Wire in use, the outcome of their findings were that a Couple of expensive Cables were very different in use, where one was not seen as attractive in the audio system and interfaces used within the system. I have not been in the room at the tome of the trials, but have been demo’d the selections made, and can assure the impressions made are very attractive and indelible.

One such coupling that really shone out at all interfaces used, are the pairing seen in the link. When used on a device that had the Chassis Connector exchanged to a Pure Copper - Gold Plated type, the Cable in the link proved to be parity with the preferred type of the most expensive Cables.

Note: The Power Plug used was 1 x Wall Socket and 1 X IEC  of a UK Spec'.

I would also suggest looking for the Wire only and attempting a Helix Configuration with the Power Connectors.

The next step, if wanted to get a further improvement for the Cable usage, the suggestion is, to have a Pure Copper connector put onto the Chassis.

Item page- ZenMarket.jp - Japan Shopping & Proxy Service

Monosaudio M104G/F104G Copper US Power Plug Pure Copper 24k Gold Plated Audio Power Connector IEC Plug DIY Power Cord Cable - AliExpress

@dalims4 , SSSHHHHHHH 😜

@mitch2 

This is Hudson Shepherd (he has a fakebook page I use semi-anonymously to keep up with family/relatives). We got him as a stray/rescue 5-1/2 years ago. He’s pretty much 100% GSD (German Shepherd Dog) but with a longer coat and features closer to Altdeutsche Schaeferhund, what we call in the states “Alsatian” - based on a much older breed. Thanks for asking.

@normb 

The mc cable would be excellent from the breaker to the wall outlets at your system, and maybe better than Romex due to the shielding.

I have never used the Black Mamba PC but I do have a pair of 2M Oyaide Tunami v2 cords (10awg+) here for my mono amps. Changed my set-up and no longer need 2M cords so am using much shorter Furutech FP Alpha cords (11awg) with Oyaide P079/C079 connectors.  They both sound good.  The Oyaide cords are stiff.

BTW, is your avatar a Belgian Malinois?  My wife and I have enjoyed having 6 different husky’s here over the years but it is about time for another dog and we have been interested in a Malinois.  The stubbornness, energy, and intelligent alertness seem to be shared traits but the Malinois is probably a bit more protective.

@mitch2  This is what I have running from my circuit breaker to a dedicated outlet (Oyaide something or other). Had my electrician approve it for new home build.

Now to finish the house…

You can buy 1-2 meters of Oyaide Black mamba V2 or Furutech cable from ePay (from sellers out of Japan, doubtful it’s chicom counterfeit stuff) for $70 - blood plasma.

Plugs? Oyaide P-029 runs around $70, higher-end Oyaide or Furutech double that to first-born.

IEC end ditto.

Or you can spend your grandchildren’s inheritance on ready-made cables for $$$$$ prices.

I bought some Belden wire, Oyaide plugs and am happy enough with the results with a TEKTRON TK2 2A3/50I-S running EML 300b tubes. Still contemplating the Black Mamba stuff just ‘cause I like what I’ve read about it and, well, my inner adolescent says it sounds cool.

YMMV.

I like what mitch said "dont over think it".I might have to get some of the neotech/stash.I do sheilded source and non amp/conditioner and have no problems with noise.These guys know what there talkin about and as for running in i picked up audioharma so it shaves off weeks of runin.The suggestions so far i concur.

wolfie62...wow you hit the lottery/in audio...sort of.

I suspect the fire alarm cable sounds good but, why stop there?  The mc cable shown below has three 10awg connectors (H/N/G) and a metal casing that can be connected at the source end for shielding.  

Unfortunately, solid core wire has poor flexibility and can only safely be used in fixed installations and not in situations where the cable is subjected to being flexed due to the risk of the conductor and/or insulation failing if moved repeatedly.  This is probably why more audiophiles don't use Romex as power cables.

 If you`re looking for a real upgrade buy some 12awg solid firealarmcable. Nothing else comes close

Thank you Williewonka and Danmar123
Both great instructables that I need to spend some time with

I 've been making own my power cables for years now. This morning I purchased; FURUTECH FP-S35TC PC-TripleC new technology & Schuko Furutech FI-E50 FI-50M FI-50 NCF Nano Crystal. I believe in burn in, so I'm going to switch out my Refrigerator line for about 3 weeks. I'll keep you updated.

@smaarch1 - take a look at this DIY cable - it is excellent

http://www.image99.net/blog/files/be8de0c383c5434907610d6b55049e69-75.html

Here are some member reviews of the Helix Cables

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/duelund-conversion-to-diy-helix-geometry-cabling

• it's a bit of a read, but worth the effort

The are very much worth the effort

Regards - Steve

That's amazing wolfie62.
I'm in a Condo in NY so I'm going to bet that's a no go. LOL

Thanks curiousjim

Not exactly DIY, but…..

Recently new power poles were put up on my street by contractors of the power company. The 3 7300 vac lines were raised to the top of a new pole. I asked if the same transformer was going back in place; they said yes. I asked if an additional transformer could be mounted for my house. They just said, “Sure!” So they mounted an additional transformer just to my house, tapped into the lesser used of the 3 phases. My cable coming into my house from the transformer went into a tree; so I asked if that could be replaced to clear the tree, since they had raised the transformer 10 feet and couldn’t cut down the big oak tree that was now interfering. They said YES!! They doubled my cable gauge, and re-routed it. Took me off the grid an hour. But now I have my own transformer and heavy cable servicing the house. I have 2 dedicated lines from the trunk line feeding my sound system. 8 gauge stranded on each circuit. 30 amp breakers on each circuit. 4 600 watt mono block amps. 

@smaarch1 

Beautiful system!

Thanks everyone for the responses

I am a fan of fully shielded power cables, especially if you are coming off a conditioner.  Keeps the signal clean.

In this case find a source of 10 gauge 3 conductor wire and get high quality connectors for each end. Before I was able to add another 10 guage direct line, this is what I used. It takes some effort to get the wire and connectors to fit it, as this is very oversized. But it is worth it.  

I like Furutech cables. For the amp I would do DPS-4.1 with FI-50 NCF plugs. Or FP-S55N with the same plugs.
As fat as dedicated line, I had the electrician run two dedicated lines for my system, 12 gauge romex double run on each line so that I can have two duplexes on each circuit. This provides flexibility to either run an amplifier on it’s own circuit and run your sources on another, or split digital and analog.
I use Furutech GTX-D NCF Rhodium outlets. And I sold my Puritan PSM156 power conditioner as I just prefer everything connected direct to wall after the dedicated lines were run, using good power cords and outlets. 
YMMV

Great and thanks for the links

Do yourself a favor and don't overthink it.  Purchase bulk ac cable, ac power plugs, and iec plugs from reputable manufacturers like Furutech, Neotech, or DH Labs and then carefully construct the cables by attaching the plugs/iecs and connecting the wires and shielding.  Some like PCs with shielding for front end/digital components but not for power amps.  IME, shielding is never a bad thing and most of the already constructed power cables available are shielded.  I have had good luck with both Furutech and Neotech bulk ac cables but if you check the links you will see a couple of the Neotech offerings use UP-OCC copper, which is no longer made.

Regarding your "panel to stereo" circuit, at a minimum, dedicate that circuit for use only by the stereo.  Beyond that it comes down to personal preferences and how far you want to go.  I have separate dedicated circuits for digital, front end preamplifiers, and a third totally separate circuit for my power amps.  Each circuit is 20A and uses oversized 10awg wire.  I am sure having three circuits is overkill.  Some will probably tell you a single circuit sounds best.  If you are using a distribution box for your whole system, then you don't need more than a single circuit.  Some add whole house surge protectors, power regenerators, and other stuff.  Good luck.