Mains Power Cable DIY

Do yourself a favor and don't overthink it.  Purchase bulk ac cable, ac power plugs, and iec plugs from reputable manufacturers like Furutech, Neotech, or DH Labs and then carefully construct the cables by attaching the plugs/iecs and connecting the wires and shielding.  Some like PCs with shielding for front end/digital components but not for power amps.  IME, shielding is never a bad thing and most of the already constructed power cables available are shielded.  I have had good luck with both Furutech and Neotech bulk ac cables but if you check the links you will see a couple of the Neotech offerings use UP-OCC copper, which is no longer made.

Regarding your "panel to stereo" circuit, at a minimum, dedicate that circuit for use only by the stereo.  Beyond that it comes down to personal preferences and how far you want to go.  I have separate dedicated circuits for digital, front end preamplifiers, and a third totally separate circuit for my power amps.  Each circuit is 20A and uses oversized 10awg wire.  I am sure having three circuits is overkill.  Some will probably tell you a single circuit sounds best.  If you are using a distribution box for your whole system, then you don't need more than a single circuit.  Some add whole house surge protectors, power regenerators, and other stuff.  Good luck.

I suspect the fire alarm cable sounds good but, why stop there?  The mc cable shown below has three 10awg connectors (H/N/G) and a metal casing that can be connected at the source end for shielding.  

Unfortunately, solid core wire has poor flexibility and can only safely be used in fixed installations and not in situations where the cable is subjected to being flexed due to the risk of the conductor and/or insulation failing if moved repeatedly.  This is probably why more audiophiles don't use Romex as power cables.

@normb 

The mc cable would be excellent from the breaker to the wall outlets at your system, and maybe better than Romex due to the shielding.

I have never used the Black Mamba PC but I do have a pair of 2M Oyaide Tunami v2 cords (10awg+) here for my mono amps. Changed my set-up and no longer need 2M cords so am using much shorter Furutech FP Alpha cords (11awg) with Oyaide P079/C079 connectors.  They both sound good.  The Oyaide cords are stiff.

BTW, is your avatar a Belgian Malinois?  My wife and I have enjoyed having 6 different husky’s here over the years but it is about time for another dog and we have been interested in a Malinois.  The stubbornness, energy, and intelligent alertness seem to be shared traits but the Malinois is probably a bit more protective.

@smaarch1

What is PC Triple C

Ok, since you asked:

Japanese PC Triple C copper is made in Japan’s Furukawa plant and is the next-generation version of the Japanese Ohno (Continuous Crystal) copper (a.k.a., Ohno continuous Cast Copper - OCC). Furutech’s PC Triple C stands for Pure Copper Continuous Crystal Construction.

After the "Continuous Crystal Construction" process is complete, further processing by the "Transfer Forging Method" produces thinner gauges of wire. The forging process dramatically improves conductor density by removing oxygen, which improves the conductivity of the copper. A lengthy temperature and time controlled annealing process is then carried out according to the thickness of the wire, causing the crystals to fuse with each other, creating an even more linear crystal structure.

Annealed copper became the international standard to which all other electrical conductors are compared and, in 1913, the International Annealed Copper Standard designated commercially pure annealed copper to have conductivity of 100% IACS. Electrolytic-tough pitch (ETP) copper (ASTM C11040) is the main grade of copper used for electrical applications and is at least 99.90% pure with electrical conductivity of 101% IACS. Oxygen-free copper (OFC - ASTM C10100) is about 1% more conductive and achieves a minimum of 101% IACS.

When asked what the deal was with PC OCC copper, one industry professional replied,

One word: Marketing. Same as with OFC years earlier.

The issue is not whether there are differences in the wire, but whether those differences are reliably audible...which is for another thread.