Looking for a Replacement for AT VM740ML Cartridge


Thinking of changing out my AT VM740ML Cartridge being I feel it’s a little bright. I like the transparency but would like just a “SLIGHT BIT” more warmth without it deadening the sound, so looking for recommendations.

Previous carts used: 

Ortofon Super OM20 which I loved on a previous TT, just not compatible with my tonearm on my current turntable.

Ortofon 2MBlue - Did not last and like the OM20 better

Sumiko Moonstone - Way too dull sounding 

Turntable is a EAT B Sharp and Currently using a Gold Note PH-10 Phono PreAmp with the external power supply, and even with it set to -3 dB on all the EQ settings still seems to be on the bright side.

I’d like to stick with MM, so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks 

 

skiznfliz

If they're compatible with your tonearm, Nagoaka MP200, 300, or 500 have a somewhat warmer sound signature, yet retained excellent natural sounding detail and dynamics.

Nagaoka +1.

Are you still running 5751 tubes in your amps? I love these tubes but they can be a little "etched." Your amps also spec 12AX7s. You might try putting them back in and reassessing the SQ. 

@noromance My Amps as SS, My PreAmp uses 12AU7’s that I switched out to 5814’s that sound great !  The Phono Pre is the Gold Note PH-10 and that too is Solid State… So not sure where your coming from or if you read my post. If you looked up my system, I did not make the change yet as to the PH-10 being my Phono pre and that could maybe be you thought I was still using the Pro-Ject.

Only the TT is bright, my other sources are ok… 

@skiznfliz Yeah, your VS is out of date, then. I missed it in your post. My bad. Too much single malt. Carry on.

@skiznfliz get MM cart from Audio Technica house AT-150MLX ! 

If you want the best, try to get NOS / good from ML150..180 series.. my AT-ML180 kills 1500$ MC carts, while running at half track force, 1gf MM vs 2gf for MC! 

Try lowering the back end of the cartridge. That will alter the high frequencies. Something I have done on Grado's. The VM740ML is an excellent mm cartridge!

You can also experiment with the capacitance loading by using a phono cable with more or less capacitance. Moving magnet cartridges are quite sensitive to this in their high frequencies. I would try adding more capacitance. What is the capacitance of the phono cable in use now? You can go up from that after trying lowering the back end of the cartridge.

I use moving coil cartridges because they are immune to capacitance loading, same for Grado moving iron cartridges.

@jasonbourne71 When you say lower the back end of the cartridge, are you referring to increasing the tracking force with the counter weight ? 🤷‍♂️

I’m pretty sure JB means adjusting VTA or stylus rake angle. This won’t help.

Regardless, you have a decent TT and a very good PS and a cheap cart.
 

 I’d be looking at something like a Hana ML as a starting point if I were you. 

 

@cey 

VM540ML--cheaper and better

Isn't the VM740ML the same cart in a metal body vs plastic of the VM540ML?

maybe, @knotscott .  its $80 USD cheaper IIRC, and those whove used, compared or owned both prefer the 540ML. a while back i was trying to decide which one of the two to buy, and i came across mention of this repeatedly then i came across it repeatedly. 

Best is the Denon model 103 but you need a wood body to go with it.  Sounds almost as good as my Gold Bug.

I'm not that knowledgeable but Clearaudio has a well-regarded series of MM cartridges that may be considered. I have the Maestro and it is super dynamic and fun to listen to. 

I second the AT VM540ML.  I purchased one and use it in rotation on my Technics SL1200G turntable.   For Rock, it is amazing and I think it sounds better than the cartridge you are using.  Yours seems to have tipped up highs. I also have a Shure V15 Type IV.  I love this cartridge the best and I play a lot of Jazz records with it.  For Classical, I use a ZU modified Denon DL103 moving coil.  It takes me less than 5 minutes to swap cartridges, rebalance arm and adjust tonearm height. 

@stereo5 

I currently use a new VM540ML and have a Shure V15 type III.  Three questions: what tracking weight are you using for the VM540ML what stylus on the Shure, and does your Shure have the carbon fibre brush?

Try a Shibata.

I used a 750SH and liked it.

Ortofon 2M Black or Sumiko Amethyst?

@theflattire 

Why would you prefer a Shibata stylus shape over a micro-line?  Maybe because the rounder Shibata cannot track the high frequencies as well, leading to a "softer" sound?

Interested in your rationale ...

@richardbrand 

I think the Shibata sounded 'fatter,' closer to an elliptical like a 2M Blue I had.  Never tried the ML.

I upgraded right after to a OC9XSL and thought it sounded thin by comparison.

I never thought the SH lacked in highs though.

This was back when I was running a Darlington Labs MP-7.

@richardbrand

On the VM540 ML, I used the recommended weight in the owners manual, not sure on the Shure, I will have to check. I will get back to you on that, I’m not home at the moment. My Shure does have the brush. Add a half gram extra if brush is in the down position. If it is locked in the up position, you don’t need to Add any extra weight.

@stereo5 

Thanks, I am ok for the Shure tracking weight, but the VM540ML is about twice as much (excluding the extra for the Shure brush).  The VM540ML is over the standard adjustment range for my 'SME 3009 S2 improved with fixed head shell', which I can extend using a tracking force gauge, and also over the anti-skating range for which I have no answer except a heavier anti-skating weight.

@theflattire 

I would have thought the progression in detail (high frequency resolution) would increase with stylus shape from round to elliptical to Shibata to micro-line, simply because they fit progressively better into the groove.

Many people might prefer a smoother sound with less high frequency, which shoul translate into less transient attack.  I have switched from a Shure V15 type III with elliptical stylus to the AT540ML with its micro-line stylus.  To my ears it probably is a bit more detailed but without two tone arms or a detachable head shell, I am relying on my memory!

One day I might buy a Jico micro-line stylus for the Shure ... but the entire AT540ML was cheaper!

Tape a nickel to your headshell. Readjust your cartridge settings again. Anti skate, tracking force whatnot. See if it makes it better or worse.

I ended up returning the PH-10 being it just had too much gain, even at -3 dB was still too overwhelming !!! So switched back to the Pro-Ject for now. I previously owned a Tubes for HiFi SP-13 PreAmp and liked it very much, so as suggested in a response to my post was a PH-16 from Tubes for HiFi, so I reached out to them for some info. I think Roy sold the company, but even so, the PH-16X looks very interesting and being all tubes will probably be more of what I’m looking for.     

@wturkey 

Thanks for the idea.  We do not have nickel coins Down Under, though we mine plenty of nickel!

The VM540ML has a designed tracking force between 1.8 and 2.2 grams.

The SME 3009 tone arm is a high-precision, low mass design and worked particularly well with the Shure V15 high compliance cartridges, tracking at about 1 gram.  Tracking force is applied by turning a big counterweight until the arm balances level, then sliding a smaller weight along a calibrated rod to apply tracking force.  The rod is marked in 1/4 gram intervals and stops short at 1.5 grams.  It is easy enough to turn the big counterweight to give more tracking force, but you have to use some other way of measuring it.  No drama with digital scales..

The anti-skating force is applied by a bob weight dangling on a very fine line running through a miniature pulley.  The other end of the line loops around another calibrated rod to apply side pressure.  Once again, the rod length is designed for a maximum of 1.5 grams tracking force.

The obvious solution is to increase the mass of the bob weight with some very small nickel equivalent with a central hole!  I have test records with tracks for setting the anti-skating force but I have not worked out how to use them yet!