Nope. The smoothing is done elsewhere. Rectifiers also introduce voltage sag, modulation, harmonic distortion and switching noise.
All a rectifier tube does is take a pulsing AC voltage and smooth it out
5AR4 rectifier tube question
I am sort of shopping for one or more 5AR4s for a Cary SLP05 power supply because I’d like to have at least one spare and because I’d maybe like to roll two or three ad see if I can hear an improvement or vice versa. I make no claims of knowing much about the vacuum tube game; occasionally I get lucky & stumble on something that really works for me. As far as the 5AR4, I did a hit at Uncle Kevin’s site, and there were some that looked interesting (I am thinking of one in particular, it had a Japanese sounding name that started with a ’M’) but when I click on it, all I get is a picture of Uncle Kevin’s screaming face telling me "not to buy tubes" (later, when I finally took time to read, apparently his tube tester is down).
So I started doing hits on Ebay, and oh my gosh! I was inundated with choices and the variation in prices! Which do I stay away from and which should I be interested in? Would a 5AR4 from Bugera also be suitable for what I’d want to use it for? Could a rectifier tube provide a big sonic upgrade if I spent enough money on it? Can I make a sonic upgrade from what I believe (I haven’t opened up the power supply yet) is the stock EH 5AR4 without breaking the bank? I would be totally good with the $50.00 range and picking up 2 or 3 different ones to play with if those with experience thought I could improve the power supply in that range. If I had to I guess I could go more (the $100.00 range) but I probably wouldn’t be buying too many of them, and I was kind of HOPING not to go much over that.
Anyway, thanks in advance for the input; I always consider it part of my education.
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not sure what unit/gear you are using, but this doesn't seem right... might be your amperex rectifier is bad the sovtek 5ar4's are grim, compared to properly working uk or dutch real deal ones (my experience from modwright gear/tube power supplies, wavelength, cary, primaluna amplifiers) would say it is definitely worth your trouble to try another one |
@rodman99999 thanks! |
It’s hard to go wrong with Amperex, regardless of the context. When you receive yours: look for date codes like: F32/B4J1 or: F32/B4H5, etched into the glass. Also: for a hole in the guide pin. Those would indicate that your Amperex was manufactured by Mullard and rebranded. Many of the better tube companies rebranded/sold Mullard’s wares.
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Bah, humbug, snake-oil! I went ahead & pulled the trigger on a couple of vintage 5AR4s (a UK Amperex and a Hitachi) on ebay. I bid on a couple of Mullards as well, but I am not planning on going any higher and there are still a bunch of days left until those bids close, so I completely expect to be outbid. |
From those that I've spoken to, component designers/manufacturers are well aware, whatever active gain devices* they choose to incorporate in their components: the quality of presentation will be directly proportionate to the quality of the DC *they modulate, as controlled by the signal they're presented. Note the number of times, "power supply upgrades" and, "HEXFREDs" are mentioned, in the following upgrades/paths/offers. Bybee Rails are another power supply upgrade/tweak, btw. http://www.rogueaudio.com/The_Magnum_Series.htm https://www.jolida.com/upgrades/upgrading-your-equipment Odyssey used to offer HEXFREDs (ultra fast/ soft recovery) as an upgrade, but: now, just as a standard parts. https://odysseyaudio.com/candela-vacuum-tube-line-preamplifier/. Happy listening! |
According to Cary Audio:
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One more time: In SS, linear power supplies: upgraded rectifiers and regulators, often makes some of the most audible and dramatic improvement in presentation. The same applies to tube components, BECAUSE (in every gain stage): what the signal does is modulate the power supply's DC, into a stronger signal, until it ultimately reaches your speakers and ears. iow: You're listening to your power supply! Capiche? (of course not!)
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Rectifier tubes drop the B+ voltage by different amounts. 5AR4 vs. 5V4 vs. 5U4 vs. 5Y3/80 vs. ... and they are rated for different current handling. Find a copy of Vacuum Tube Valley and read the article/survey of different rectifier tubes. Changing the B+ voltage in a tube circuit will also change the various operating parameters in the circuit. That is why it is best to stick with the designer's choice of recrtifier tube. Otherwise performance will be compromised! . |
@rodman99999 ’s point is the key one here, as far as i am concerned - when rectifiers fail, they usually do some ancillary damage to the circuit, big or small - so to me the most compelling case for these old stock 5ar4 is their tremendous durability... i myself went through a period using dan wright’s modded cd players, which in turn use his sweet sounding outboard power supply based on the 5ar4 rectifier... these were initially shipped with the grim sovtek 5ar4, two of which failed over the course of the first 12-18 months, and i got tired of the smell of electrical components burning, then shipping to darn ps back to dan in washington for repairs to the pcb
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Not certain about many of the NOS rectifiers, out there, but: a Mullard Blackburn, GZ34, in pristine condition, will always bring above $150, from what I've seen of late. One reason for the demand and price, is the presentation, which (of course) is a matter of the palate. Another huge one: typically, the tube will still be testing GOOD, long after the first purchaser has expired. |
@immatthewj - Might also consider NOS GE & RCA 5AR4s; pleased with the sq of both
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Thank you to all for suggestions and information. I have made some notes and I put some 5AR4s on my ebay watch list so that I can find them easier if I decide to pull the trigger. I also went back to upscale audio and I clicked on a 5AR4 to rad the blurb, and once again, all I got was Uncle Kevin's screaming face telling me not to buy tubes. @whart I am about to do a search on that. Thanks. |
Andy is real good. I would recommend doing a browser search for DubStep Girl’s Massive 5ar4 Shoot-Out. It is comprehensive and has her comments on the sonics of each tube. I have a number of these rectifiers. My fav, which is not a direct equivalent, is a GEC u52. I’ve had them as brown base and black base. I own several different old Mullards, including a NIB/NOS Philips/Miniwatt metal base- it sounds dramatically different than the GEC. Some of this is probably due to the circuit, so I’d think you’d want to compare notes with somebody who has rolled using at least the same component. In my case, it was an Allnic phono stage with outboard power supply. |
i still have quite a stash of nice old stock 5ar4/gz34 (uk holland japan) so if folks are desperate for a few of them i may be able to assist, just pm me... only in usa or canada please - i am not currently using gear that runs these... i had accumulated quite a few these from the 90's and 00's when i was running my wavelength cardinal se amps (one in each mono block) so being the hoarder i am i stocked up way back then |
Hi, I have a Cary SLP 05 too and have used several different rectifiers after the stock Sovtek failed after three months and took both fuses with it. I rate the Sovtek as OK sounding and poor on reliability. I tried a Gold Lion and it was a mixed experience. Good dynamics but poor transparency and detail. For NOS I tried an off label Amperex and it had quite a bass punch but the treble was not refined. Next was a Mullard f31 and it was excellent but not quite as good as the Mullard f32 which is cheaper and easier to find. The NOS Mullard f32 can be found on ebay under a variety of labels that Mullard made them for, e.g. Haltron, RCA and Westinghouse. There are a number of very knowledgable and trustworthy tube guys on ebay and they have served me well for NOS rectifiers and 6SN7 tubes for my Cary. The Mullard f32 sounds so much better in my system than any others. Speed, dynamics, transparency and seperation, refinement, bass, midrage, treble, etc. Reliability is by all accounts a last a life time purchase, mine has lasted 9 months and going strong. Mullard NOS GZ34 / 5AR4 f32 date code. If you keep looking you should be able to find an unused version for -$150 or so. |
The first valve I changed on my SLP-05 was the rectifier. I started with stock tubes and finished with Blackburn. Day 1 and 2. I left the rest. They were matched very well. Did it make a difference? I was going to sell the unit if I couldn’t contour the tone. It added greater detail in every region. I ordered a STR-1002-SUPER rectifier from STL. I also ordered their passive tube 15 band EQ with a STR-1001 for it. BOTH are "Super" rectifiers. I use a STR-1001 on a Decware ZP3, literally night and day. Does it make a difference? This discussion reminds me of cables and fuses. There is the "show me", bunch and there is the "I tried it" bunch.. I’m in the latter. Everything matters, even driving home with the window down before a listening session. |
I've tried a variety of 5AR4/GZ34 rectifiers, from a metal base, a fat base, to a JJ new production and a few in-between these extremes. Audible sonic difference = zero. The fat base popped after a couple weeks of use. Oh well. I think there may be a case for differences in guitar amps but only from what I have read on those forums - their version of a tweak? {I see that my metal base might be worth a few bucks on eBay these days..}
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Keep in mind: there's a plethora of variables, between that 5AR4/GZ34 and what you ultimately perceive (media/components/room/ears/brain/perspectives). OH, and: NEVER accept info, from a bogus* Intelligence Operative! *What they offer will typically be in character Happy experimenting and listening! |
+1s, for those that recommended NOS Mullards as the go-to, for tube rectifiers. Especially: look for those manufactured in the Blackburn plant. In SS, linear power supplies: upgraded rectifiers and regulators, often makes some of the most audible and dramatic improvement in presentation. The same applies to tube components, BECAUSE (in every gain stage):
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Andy's got a 70's Sylvania that he likes that's the same price as the Matsushita so if you want to try two to see if you hear a difference you could buy those two for less than the price of one Blackburn Mullard. Be warned though that Andy is way behind and Brett's stock of 5AR4's is wiped out. I've got two of the Mullard's and one Matsushita and I have tried with two different preamps to hear any appreciable difference and couldn't. The Matsushita's are that good and should be. |
@russ69 oops, I forgot about the whole tube hoarding thing. And I wasn’t even thinking about it along those lines; ever since I bought that pre I’ve been considering tube upgrades and a spare rectifier in case the stock one takes a crap, so I wouldn’t be down, but I see what you mean. @jackd okay, thank you for that, and I will consider Andy. @jasonbourne52 I am confused on that; I understand that the rectifier tube is not in the signal path, but then I have read people talking how a different rectifier tube improved their unit’s sonic performance. As an example, I think I remember a blurb from Uncle Kevin talking about a rectifier tube upgrade for that tubed Prima Luna CD player he sells on his site. As I said, I am confused on that subject.
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All Kevin's showing for sale are the four Russian new production brands which are pretty much the same tube with different labels and boxes. For NOS 5AR4's that work and may outlast you call Andy at Vintage Tube Services. Don't waste your effort with e-mail. The Matsushita 5AR4 which was made in a plant built and tooled with Mullard are very good tubes for under $100. He also has couple of American made ones that are similar priced from Sylvania and GE. If you just need one really good tube that will be the standard for comparison just buy a Mullard from him and be done. They have climbed to around $200 in the last couple of years. Buying 5AR4's on Ebay is a serious crap shoot. |
