Why not horns?


I've owned a lot of speakers over the years but I have never experienced anything like the midrange reproduction from my horns. With a frequency response of 300 Hz. up to 14 Khz. from a single distortionless driver, it seems like a no-brainer that everyone would want this performance. Why don't you use horns?
macrojack
Here we are at half-time in the World Cup Final and I have to revise a comment I made a while ago. I called the Dutch physical. After watching a half where they should have wound up playing with only 9 guys on the field, I want to say that the Dutch are a chippy, chickensh*t, cheating bunch of thugs. Hup yours, Holland.
Thanks, Macrojack. Since posting the link, I have "met" one of that paper's authors in another online forum (he and I are disagreeing about something... surprise surprise!).

I don't have any experience with either the K-2 or Everest, but I'm sure they're awesome.

The original Everest, circa 1985, used an asymmetrical horn to achieve the desired toe-in angle without having to actually toe the speakers inward:

Original JBL Everest

I borrowed the concept; one of my models uses asymmetrical enclosures to achieve the same end, but with a conventional symmetrical horn.

Duke
Duke - It appears from photos of the K-2 that Usher made a copy of it at one point. Is the Usher as good? Or better?
Macrojack, I will correct one of your posts regarding my past visitations of the OMA site.

I will only say that my "time" visiting with OMA was very short, very educational, and very eye-opening.

To say that I would not let my dog lift his leg on the side of the OMA barn would be a gross understatement.

Hope this makes my position clear. Nothing against Acoustic Horns.
The following article was sent to me by an experienced and dedicated horn enthusiast. I thought it might help to clear up some of the misunderstanding concerning horns and their potential, especially since it comes from a very credible source.

http://www.enjoythemusic.com/magazine/manufacture/whyhorns.htm
Sonic differences of Altec model 19 and Altec a7 but keep in mind a7 performance varies with drivers used. Model 19 lower bass, more treble extension. Less coloration for model 19. A7 can play louder the horn loaded mid-bass is very enjoyable has a punch and detail that is missed by model 19. I have been able to use A7 in small spaces since you can adjust the midhorns angle. The model 19s images is more detailed over a7. Image height is better with a7. Both are very good sounding loudspeakers. To me both are a bit dark voiced since hi frequency extension for either not equal to the better modern designs still a easy fix just add fostex super tweeters. I have owned 3 pair a7 and 2 pair model 19 most klipsch models many other Altecs.
Thanks Duke and Johnk for the responses, very informative! It would be interesting to hear a pair of the model 19's sometime.
Is pissing with rain so I thought I would share a joke;

A simple spelling mistake caused my divorce, I went
to Amsterdam and sent
a message to my wife, 'having the most amazing and
wonderful time wish you were her'!
Gawddamn, gawdbless, your jokes are terrible. And don't seem to segue too well into this discussion. Lousy, unfunny, awkward and inappropriate.

It appears to me that only a handful of the thousands of people who use horn based speaker systems worldwide can be bothered to read the Audiogon forums. I think it is because they have progressed so far beyond the trivial egocentric, brand name palaver that dominates these discussions that they long ago lost interest. For my own part, I have stopped reading anything that asks about B&W or Thiel or Vandersteen or Krell or Wilson because there is never anything new or interesting to be found. My apologies for inquiring.
Macro,

As Ronald Reagan would have said, "there you go again" drawing unsubstantiated conclusions.

How do you know how people read Audiogon threads?

I can assure you a lot more threads are read than people actively participate in.

And its pretty egocentric to think that if they are not chirping in on your thread that it is Audiogon's fault.

It is a safe bet most likely though that the majority of people out there using horns or any other speaker type are content just enjoying music on them and do not need or care about outside info from Audiogon or any other audio centric site.

For those that do care about horns and their place in niche high end audio world specifically, Audiogon is surely the place to be. But for those just interested in horn speakers in general, there is abundant information out there beyond the small sampling of info referenced here.
Mapman - Please don't quote Ronald Reagan to me. The man was a moron.
I do hope you are bright enough to realize as much.
Johnk,
How would you do the "Add fostex t900a tweeters a few parts adds about $1100 more" integration into the M19s? Would you replace the uppermid drivers with something else (as was suggested on a long thread over at Lansing Heritage a year or two ago)?
You would use a capacitor and pentameter or fixed resistors if you can afford fostex r100t transformer attenuators even better. Some Altecs might need networks updated but most do not.The t900a has a stand you just move it forward or back to get some time alignment vertically. Very easy to do.
OM Horns

These are horns that I think I could live with some day if they sound as good as they look.
A bargain at $53,000?
HELLO, earth to reviewer.
Those cost of those speakers (to me anyway) are a sure case of 'why don't I try and build my own'?
They do. In fact, many people would say they sound a lot better than they look. They were designed for OMA by Bill Woods.
The cost is the one thing I suspect I could not live with and would be the reason "why not horns" for me in this particular case.

Also there is a lot of competition at the $53000 price point.

Also it seems that very expensive speakers in general seem to depreciate the most on the used market as well which makes them a bad investment. People with the money to afford $53000 speakers are not searching for used bargains I suspect which means the prices have to come way down into the range of mere mortals to re-sell without taking a big financial hit.
I meant to say prices have to come way down to re-sell which means the owner will take a big financial hit if they re-sell new big bucks speakers.
Here is a link for the AH300 horn in the OMA speaker.

http://www.acoustichorn.com/products/300/

A pair of these horns is $2700 in plain maple with a small upcharge for other woods. I believe I paid an extra $150 for cherry.

You can have the aluminum horn throat customized for any driver you wish to use at no extra charge. The B&C drivers that I use sell for around $1100/pair. These numbers are not chump change but they really are a bargain. I combined my horns with a pair of JBL L-200 cabinets (usually $1000 - $1200 per pair used) and a DBX Drive Rack PA for $400. Beyond this, all you need is 2 amps for bi-amping and some time, effort and experimentation tweaking the many variable settings on the DBX. If you do the math, you'll notice you are pretty close to 10% of $53,000.

You may notice I didn't mention a tweeter. That's because you probably won't need one but the B&C driver is a coax and there is a concentric horn tweeter included should you want it. That can be crossed in passively or you can add a small amp and tri-amplify.

The performance level of this speaker will blow your mind.
Is there a sonic difference between a fibreglass cone and a wooden cone? if so, can someone please explain the benefits and or negatives of both materials? (one benefit with fibreglass is I suppose there is no chance of it getting attacked by woodworm,lol). I think my cones are made of fibreglass, although I am willing to be corrected on that.
Johnk- did you ever dabble with wooden conical cones?
You have a triple alnico magnet magnesium dome tweeter, a ceramic composite cone mid alnico mags,paper cone woofers. I have listened to a few wooden cones and there are better about. So many types of cone material. Sure some are better than others. But its the total design of the transducers not any 1 part that I consider when designing loudspeakers or ordering custom build audio drivers.
Vernneal - That's subject to personal circumstances. My horns are 24" wide by 21" deep by 52" tall. Not small and not enormous. Because they are back near the front wall, their space consumption isn't particularly egregious, however, the 18" diameter horn mouth is pretty eyecatching. In other words, the aren't really too big but they are pretty conspicuous.

Given the need for space behind them, I would say that most panels are effectively larger.
macro,

Have you provided pictures of your setup?

That would help others get a better picture of where you are coming from.
Thanks for the explanation JohnK, you lost me in the first sentence though. Makes me wonder why wood is still used then if there is better available? $53,000 is just plain ludicrous for a pair of speakers in my eyes. Would love to hear them one day though.
Mapman - My setup is shown on the Acoustic Horn website. I have provided several links earlier in this thread but no one seems to have noticed.

Go to "Testimonials" and scroll down to "Tom in Denver". I'm not actually in Denver but that isn't too important. You should be able to enlarge the photos with just one click. The speakers are still the same even though I have changed most of the rest of the pictured gear.
Gawdbless - When you were talking about wooden cones I took you to mean conical wooden horns. JohnK apparently thought you were talking about conventional drivers with wooden cones. It is apparent you guys are cross talking and missing each other's meanings.

I agree that $53,000 is way too much to pay for speakers when you simply don't have that kind of money, which I don't. However, I have been trying to notify you people that you can acquire the same performance and comparable cosmetics for approximately 10% of that investment.

I've spelled it all out repeatedly. I've told you how to investigate for yourself. If you want me to do more, I can set you up for half of $53,000 or $26,500 plus shipping. And I can get you a deal on a bridge too. Have you ever seen the Brooklyn Bridge? How would you like to be the one charging tolls on that baby?
Macro,

Can you provide a single post with the recipe for your speakers including the end cost?

PErhaps the info has been provided but I either missed it or it is in too many bits and pieces to soak in cleanly.
Mapman - Scan back up this very page about 10 entries and you will see a pretty complete recipe for my speakers that I submitted on July 20. If I wasn't clear or didn't provide enough info, feel free to ask me questions.
macro,

I see it.

Its not clear to me what the dbx does and whether a separate crossover of some sort is needed?

Thanks.
Here is the newer PA+ version. It does all the same things that mine does. I use it as a crossover, time delay and EQ.
http://www.dbxpro.com/PA+/

With this device you can shape your sound any way that you want.
MJ,

So what is handled in your configuration by the JBLs versus the custom horn loaded drivers?

Are teh JBLs biampable or is the complete full range speaker in play but fed only a certain frequency range by the dbx acting as a crossover?
The JBL has a passive crossover built into the cabinet but there are connections on the back for separate driver hook up. At first I used the JBL XO and just disconnected the mid-range horn in the JBL and connected my AH300 horn instead.

Then when I got the dbx, I ran out of my preamp to the inputs of the dbx and then on to an amplifier that drives my horns and another amp that drives my woofers. Currently I have replaced the JBL woofers with a pair of RCF L15P530 woofers. The only thing from the JBLs that I still use is the box.

My crossover frequency between my woofers and my horns is 300 Hz. I use a 24 db/octave LR filter in both directions, one half meter of time delay, and a small amount of shaping. I'm sure I don't have it optimized but I'm quite happy with the sound overall. Does this explanation make sense?
Macro, I am in same corner when it comes to sound for pound (sterling/dollar). I have gotten good sound (I think so) from my horns, purchased very reasonably on here.
If I had to I would possibly try and have a go at making a DIY pair, but as I am happy with the Oris's and simply over the moon with my H1's, I have no need to venture down that road.The H1's are my perfect speaker and I could not be happier and would never sell them.
If I ever venture to New York, I will for sure make Highwater Sound (jeff is a nice guy) my first port of call.
Got the hear the latest version of the Aspara Acoustics HL1 and their top of the range HLR.
I'm getting email inquiries daily about the status of Bill Woods. So I checked into the matter. Several people who have contacted Bill report that he is not taking any more horn orders for a year so as to catch up with demand.

Turns out this is true. Bill is in demand with the pros and with certain speaker manufacturers. He has taken on a huge contract and feels he has to postpone taking additional horn orders until he has the time to fill those orders properly.

Meanwhile, he will be busy with design and consulting commitments. No rest for the best.
All quiet on the horn front. Apparently everyone is so content with their speakers that there is nothing else to say.
Macrojack.
I'm surprised that you never posted your system to help the cause of the horn....

I have Avantgardes and I'm in love.
In these depressive times of big brother cock ups, its nice to hear someone that is busy now, and tomorrow.
Jeff1225- If you read back through this and other horn threads you will find my system described and justified for critics exhaustively. There are links to manufacturers demonstrating and explaining components such as horn, driver, crossover, woofer, etc. I have included links to photos and links to articles that I felt might be helpful.

If you are referring to a link next to my signature like you have, I don't know how to do that. It would probably be a useful shortcut for me though.
I have been living with a pair of Morrow Audio MA3 interconnects between my dac and preamp for the last month or so(after break in)and I want to say my system has NEVER sounded better....modified Lascalas......(not talking about my vinyl).....
I am planning on testing the Faital pro 2" compression driver in a horn in the next few weeks. The Faital driver is considered the best compression driver that US Speaker sells (according to Al, the owner of usspeaker) with a very flat response 500hz-18khz and ultra low distortion. It will be crossed over with an active 48dB slope to my 18" drivers, which will handle below 500hz (and they do so QUITE well).

They will be good competition for my 15" Audio Nirvana Full-Range drivers, which I found to be some of the best speakers I've ever heard regardless of price.

My system is a high-resolution DSP-based system with amplification of my own design. If the horns are distorting I'll know it right off the bat.

I'll post back with my findings once I get around to putting this project together.
A lot $ for fostex fe126e. Check out horn shoppe you could buy near 2 new pair http://www.thehornshoppe.com/ I had a few customers use this type of treatment on rare fe206esr. Owners had to replace drivers. Buyer beware.
I only received half of my order (only one driver) so I'm waiting on the other Faital Pro HF20AT driver. That being said, this single driver in mono sounds the most like real music of any speaker I've ever heard regardless of price.

I have it attached to my active XO crossing over at 500hz. The sound is incredibly clear and uncompressed. Even from a single speaker in mono the speaker totally disappears and sounds 20x its size. I am like a kid at christmas waiting for the second driver to arrive. Couldn't be more thrilled with this driver -- then again it's the most expensive CD on the market.
http://www.usspeaker.com/Faital%20Pro%20HF20AT-1.htm

http://www.prosoundservice.com/m9_view_item.html?m9:item=BC-DCX50

I am confident in the claims you make about your new compression driver which I linked above. The other link is my driver. Aside from the fact that mine is a coax, they seem pretty similar.