What isolation feet under your amp with great result?


I'm looking for more cleaner, micro inner details. Not tone control or dynamic.
Amp is 82-lb. TIA
128x128nasaman
First go to a local granite store and pick up a thick piece to place on the shelf. For this size you should get it for free so just slip them a $20. Then place your absorption feet under the amp on the granite piece
@mitch2
I have given the springs interface to my concrete slab some thought also.
Because of the need to as much as possible directly couple with the concrete slab with my stands, I have just purchased some solid copper spikes to go under my stands which sit on the carpet at the moment.

You seem to get my point of not having a yielding support under the isolation springs, and yeah carpet is going to absorb energy. If you have not got a spiked base solution for under your springs, do go directly to carpet, there is low surface area, another gentleman in Agon informed me that after he removed pucks from under the springs (he purchased Townshend Audio Seismic Podiums) even with the feet directly on the carpet it improved.

I looked for solutions, and perhaps you could look also?
I found these https://isoacoustics.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Carpet-discs.jpg
Something like that under your speaker springs would be ideal, and that's why isoacoustics made them. You could DIY with a metal disc and three spikes much the same. But I must admit these look pretty, and aren't too ridiculously priced at all.

On top of your amps now that you have isolation in place, the next move is to DIY version of http://www.audiopolitan.com/blog/eti-amg-toppers-review/
I know .... yet another thing...

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@sgreg1 - Actually I got a granite slab too, and put my springs on top of it!
https://systems.audiogon.com/systems/8721

My amplifier is 98lbs, and I have my DAC and server sitting on top of it, until I can build an isolation bench, low enough to not get up into the imaging area on the tweeter plane.

I would suggest spikes under the granite at least to try it out, I would myself, however I have already bolted together out of scraps at work, made of uni strut and double uni strut  frame upon which to test out isolation shelves for myself.

I've tried various things, but so far, the hard rubber feet it came with worked best with my heavy tube amp - go figure.  As many above pointed out, it really is trial and error.  

I like the suggestion above that good footers under the speakers might be a better place to start.  isoacoustics gaia's worked for me.  
With nothing to do and all day to do it, I went and got out my remaining supply of Les Davis constrained layer damping pads and doubled up what I was already using, now with 2 under each footer on my Marantz PM15S2b integrated and 4 under the matching SA15S2b SACD player.

That was all it took to take it up the level of my Kinki EX-M1 in regard to extension, decay, clarity and almost, the impact. It's there, but in a different manner, and wonderful on it's own. It's like they are brothers who naturally speak in different tones but in similar manner.

I could live with either and am really loving the sound with the all Marantz set up. It's not as spot lighted as the Kinki but it's every bit as resolving, if that makes sense, and sounds a touch more organic. Before doubling up, the Marantz came close, but no cigar. Now with similar resolution, it's Arturo Fuente and Davidoff Signature all around.

All the best,
Nonoise
@rixthetrick 
What is on top of the amps now are two (on each amp) of these heavy little brass suckers that Dan finished in black with Isodamp elastomer material on the bottom:
https://edensoundaudio.com/shop/fatboy-disc/

I like the Isoacoustics carpet disc suggestion.  The smaller ones for the Gaia III are 1-11/16 inches in diameter so would fit a medium sized spring but they are 1.75 inches tall, which may be too tall for my situation.  I am thinking about how I could leave the Sound Anchor stands spiked to the floor and then put the springs beneath the speakers but that would negate the benefit of the additional 65-pound weight provided by the SA stands.  More consideration is needed.  First I will do some listening and decide whether I like springs under my amps before I modify my speaker set up.
@georgehifi  - sorbothane may be fantastic for the AMG or TMD toppers I have been suggesting.

Have you personally tried it against springs? It's the broad frequency range of isolation that I believe makes springs still the most used engineering isolation system in the world.
@mitch2  outriggers which come out and then up from the base and then horizontal could help lower the speakers, the center of gravity and create a more large and stable base under your speakers?
Can Dan do a 8.5lb version of the fatboy discs?

Seems we're already on the same page :-)
I'm new to this whole concept of vibration isolating the electronics, though it certainly makes sense when it comes to tube amplifiers, and clearly how a speaker sits on the floor will impact its sound.  And there seem to be quite a range of opinions on what works best and many of the options seem very expensive.  So here is my dumb question.  What would using these very cheap, industrial, vibration isolation pads do for amps and speakers?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NLR9FHJ/

They are available even cheaper and is a wide range of sizes from various industrial supply houses.
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pinwa, honestly I have no idea what a heavy duty eva pad will do.
Unless someone in here has done it, I know I haven’t.

Springs offer a broad frequency range isolation, with high amplitude isolation as well, and they are used quite literally everywhere from cars, to gimbals for even small cameras where vibration isolation is critical.
I have recently helped a Agon friend purchase a full set of springs for $42.15 on Ebay. That’s eight 2" diameter 4" tall (uncompressed) zinc plated piano wire springs at approximately $5.27 per spring delivered.

Now he’s going to have to engineer a method to mount the springs, keeping the overall height within a a couple of inches of original, and move the base of the speakers with outriggers attached. So yes a DIY will require work and some clever engineering to be most effective.

Recently others are trying springs, from various vendors, or even DIY with great success.

Using springs requires some knowledge, as they have to suit the weight of the load they are bearing, they need to deform with transient energies in a manner that isolates those energies into a localized area for maximum performance.


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I just completed a partial virtual system page update including a shot of one of the SMc amplifiers that is supported on springs (you can't see them) over the SRA platform, which is sitting on a low-profile Sound Anchor stand.
@squeak_king_77 - thanks for posting that info on the carpet discs.

@mitch2 - your system page look great. Is that a woolen rug on your wall behind the speakers? Did it make a reasonably significant difference in room sound?
I was thinking of doing the same thing, but also maybe having it stood off the wall a few inches so sounds can pass through, bounce off the wall behind and make a second pass.


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I'm using the Symposium Acoustics Ultra Platform under my integrated amplifier with very noticeable results.  The sound is more focused and the background though very good to begin with seems slightly darker and the tonal focus seems better.  

I also have Symposium footers underneath my CD transport and speakers.
I just got my Chinese spring footers in yesterday ($40 for a set of 8: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32953238126.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.69914c4dryN2ld). They are a substantial upgrade over the iso acoustics pucks I'd had under my Coincident PRE head units. If you place your hand on top of the bass cabinets that the head units sit on, you can feel the vibration of the woofers. These units completely decouple the head units from this vibration, the pucks did not. Imaging precision has increased accordingly.

I first tried placing them under the bass cabinets instead, but got a pretty striking reduction in bass output. I'd forgotten that the same result happened when I tried out isoacoustic feet as well. I think the dual 12" woofers just benefit from having a more solid launching platform. So, a word of warning there. 

I also put my amps and preamps on springs at the same time.  Clearly the big effect is from isolating my mid-range & tweeters, so I don't know if much changed from doing the equipment as well (everything was already on cheap rubber & cork vibration dampening squares). That said, the effect was so dramatic for the speakers that I'll definitely do the entire system... Especially at $40 for 8 footers.
Also @mitch2 those footers are the same ones I'm reporting on... They work great.
Interesting that you got great results with the speakers but not any improvement with your gear. I'll be getting my Isoacoustic Oreas for my integrated and SACD player tomorrow and will report back soon.

The nice part is: if I don't like them, they go back, with only postage to pay.

All the best,
Nonoise
@nonoise I should say that it's unclear what change adding under my equipment did.

I installed everything at once, noticed the change in speaker balance created by loss of bass response, moved the springs up under my head units, and then enjoyed the best sound I've had in my system.

I trust the science behind what I'm hearing on the speaker end and do believe that they're helping under my equipment.  I'll be leaving them in place, but don't feel motivated to do an A & B. It sounds great as is...
You might drop an additional $30 on the springs from that Amazon link Mitch posted, since you’ll be in demoing mode anyway. Based on my experience, I think they’ll outperform the oreas, and if not, it’s a cheap experiment.
@cal3713 ,
Your feedback is most appreciated. Knowing now what you did, I'm going to try the Oreas under my integrated first, thinking it may have the least effect, and then under my SACD player, where there's lots of motion that needs to be quelled, despite the robust build of it.

My speakers won't be touched as of now but after reading many positive reviews on use with speakers, I may entertain some other way of stand mounting my speakers. The problem is, I love the way they look on their low metal stands with that slight tilt back. It's so retro. 👍

All the best,
Nonoise
Depending on the product, some factory feet are excellent.For those components where after-market isolation is necessary try the new Les Davis Audio 3D-2 Constrained Layer Damping Devices.Cheap and effective.
As a long time user of Machina Dynamica Springs (various sizes for various weight components) I am curious. When I went to the Ali-X page I like that they have a top and bottom, but did not see how much weight they can support
IMO, the springs are too small to deal with lower vibrations

Anybody?
My mono blocks are sitting on Grand Prix amp stands. Under the stand spikes are Herbies sliders, so the amps can be moved easily on carpet. But, I recently added some of Geoff springs under the amps sitting on the stand, and son of a gun they do add further to an element of isolation  and results in a slightly more open soundstage. 

ozzy
I like the springs (just like those by M-D) that I put under my amps so far, but I wanted to maintain a lower profile under my speakers so just ordered Herbie’s Giant Fat Gliders to try in the place of the Sound Anchor spikes.
@tweak1 I can feel the low frequency isolation with my hand. My speakers have separate cabinets for the bass and mid-range/tweeter pair, and the head units sit on top of the bass cabinets. With the isoacoustic pucks under the head unit, I could still feel bass frequencies when I put my hand on top of the head unit cabinet. With the springs I cannot.
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Indeed. Everyone shopping for these solutions should use that to tool. Good recommendation.
Tried Isopods, & Herbies Tenderfeet under two different integrated amps I own - Audio Note Meishu Tonmeister and an old AN Soro. Found that the sound became mushy and much less interesting to my ears. I've had the best results under each with some old Mapleshade brass footers (the heavier the better) that I've had forever. The approach that worked best for me was anchoring the music makers (amp, dac, etc) and floating the noise makers (TT power supply). For floating the TT power supply, I'm currently using a thermal isolation silicon foam pad from an surplus space-grade test setup (-58°C to +128°C at the time) we had at work with 3 Isopods on top of that. Hope you get to where you want to go.
Noob question perhaps, but how can isolated feet contribute to better sound quality?
I, too, found the Herbie's products to make things sound a bit mushier as well, and I've tried 3 different types of their products. I'm still waiting for my Isoacoustic Oreas to arrive and just found out it took 4 days to go 14.5 miles, from Niles, Ill. to Chicago, Illl. and now they seem to be on the way via FedEx ground and pound to the Los Angeles area.

Original delivery was supposed to be yesterday. Go figure. By their track record, I should get them by the end of next week, if not the week after.

All the best,
Nonoise
@sjeesjie 
Noob question perhaps, but how can isolated feet contribute to better sound quality?
Search couple vs decouple here and over on audioasylum and you will find as much information as you will care to read.  IMO, the answer is - it depends....on so many things that there is no one size fits all answer.  In the end, the result is subjective.
In  my system, the amps are decoupled by sitting on springs over Silent Running Audio platforms, but the platforms are coupled to heavy Sound Anchor stands that are spiked (i.e., coupled) to the concrete floor.  My speakers are bolted to heavy (I.e., 70 pound) Sound Anchor stands that are spiked to the floor.  Next week, I am going to try decoupling them using Herbie’s products. I will find out then which sounds better to me.
Thank you everyone for sharing. I really appreciate. I will look into some of your recommendations especially ones leaning to improving inner details or resolutions. Meanwhile, I happen to find in my closet an extra set of 3 called “a floating balls design” that I bought years ago from Custom Isolation dot Net- great and nearly identical result that I’m getting from my CDP. I’m sharing the link here: http://customisolation.net/detail.asp?IDA=157Anywho, just like cables, diff isolation feet designs do make vary impact to audio system ... to my ears at the least, unfortunately. 
Just thought I'd chime in to let you know I got the Isoacoustic Oreas today (FedEx must have read this). I had an inkling they'd work better for my SACD player what with all the spinning going on so I tried them with integrated first, to see just how little it would improve things.

I was wrong.

The result wasn't earth shattering but the focus is much better. My Marantz/JBL combo always had a nice, full and easy sound. Now it's like it went on a diet. I thought it was more midrange centric but after lots of listening, it's across the board improvement with no area sacrificing for another. 

Inner detail or insight, if you will is everywhere to be heard. Vocals are much more intelligible and natural sounding. Highs have a bit more air and sparkle, but just a bit. I'd say more coherent would sum it up best. 

It got better when used under the SACD player. I'm going to experiment with the front two footers and see if just one sounds better tomorrow. I was told that having just one resonance point working under the CD transport might sound better than having two. This is starting to be fun again,

All the best,
Nonoise
As an update, the EVP's are working well under my Audio Note preamp. Music is more transparent and uncolored than with Herbies Tenderfeet.
Bass is now tight as well. An affordable way to decouple a component.

When using Herbies Tenderfeet, do not use them under the existing factory feet. Either remove the factory feet or place next to them (provided you have enough clearance). Make sure they are in contact with the bottom plate and I have found that 3 sound marginally better than 4.
@lowrider57, glad to hear the EVPs are working.  I certainly considered them and have not ruled them out for support under my speakers but the cost would be about $800.

In my searching around, I came across Owens Corning 703 and 705, which are rigid fiberglass boards that are commonly used for acoustical damping purposes.  The data sheets for the 703/705 materials (particularly compressive strength and associated deformation) seem quite similar to the technical information reported for the EVP material and the photos of the material look similar, except the EVPs have been painted black.  I am thinking about a DIY project using 705 pads under my speakers and including the metal plates and rubber, similar to those used for the EVPs.  I have not heard of anybody else trying this as a DIY project.  It will probably be a bit of work, but fun.  If successful, I could do my two subs too and I suspect the DIY cost would be quite a bit less than the $1,600 it would cost me to do my main speakers and two subs. 
@mitch2 
That's very expensive to decouple your speakers. The Owens Corning sounds like an interesting project. Maybe you'll discover the secret sauce inside the EVPs.

My recent decoupling experience has improved the sound of my system.  Although there were no glaring issues with the sound before, after decoupling my amps, speakers, and subs, I would describe the subtle, positive changes as enhanced clarity and coherence, particularly throughout the midrange, and perhaps less edginess that is most noticeable on poorly recorded material.   I have not noticed a loss of bass but if I do with further listening, I can adjust for that with my dual subs.

The options for decoupling are many and except for EVPs, really not that expensive.
  • Springs - Basically what Geoff at Machina Dynamica has been recommending for years.  There are several good sources and the trick is getting the right size and stiffness for your application.  Even stiff springs for higher loads should be less than about $10 each.  I have posted some pictures on my system page showing the use of cups on the top, bottom, or both when using springs.
  • Herbie's - Their dBNeutralizer based products seem to be working well under my subs and main speakers.
  • EVPs - Equipment Vibration Protectors by A/V RoomService - many have reported excellent results.
  • DIY EVPs - May be possible to make from Owens Corning 703 or 705 material, although I have not yet tried it.  If I were to make these, I would sandwich a 4x4 inch square of one-inch thick 705 between thin square steel or aluminum sheet, paint that black, and then use very thin (70 Duro) 4x4 inch Sorbothane sheets on the outsides over the sheet steel or aluminum.  After considering, I have concluded the DIY version may save some money if you need many of them but for a few, it may be better to purchase these directly from A/V RoomService. 
  • Sorbothane - Many write this material off as unsuitable for audio purposes but, after looking into it, I wonder if they were using incorrect sizes or Durometer values.  The material seems to have a good reputation as a vibration isolator outside of the high-end audiophile community.  Below is a link that provides some guidance on selecting the appropriate size and durometer values for different applications.  A set of eight for my two main speakers would only be $100.
  • https://www.sorbothane.com/Data/Sites/31/pdfs/product-guides/Sorbothane-SPG.pdf
  • Air Bladders - Many believe these to be very effective and you can read posts about folks DIY'ing them in the late 90's and 2000's.  I used them under electronics for years.
  • Hockey Pucks - These are hard vulcanized rubber and I cannot comment on how they sound but more than a few use them for decoupling speakers.
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the Herbies tube dampers are well known, his tall tender feet work very well at absorbing vibration and firm up the imaging 
for under $60 for 4 they are a $$ excellent buy.
i have used comes and bearing type in my system too analytical
sounding ,  they have cup bearing type also made of wood,and stone .
My 72 pound Aragon 8008 BB amplifier has four tennis Balls under at the bottom a solid oak cabinet with plenty air circulation sounds great.