Interesting No Questions yet !
so allow me to ask you ,,,,
is it mighty GM 70 Amps ?
is it Tektron 2a3/50M Amps (it can take 45,2a3,300B,VT 52,Sophia 206, 6b4g, 46 tubes)
What are the best GaN Amplifiers available today?
There have been a number of threads discussing the wonder of GaN and some of the individual amplifiers that have caught peoples attention, including those from AGD, Atma-Sphere, Peachtree, LSA, etc. Has anyone done a shootout against two or more GaN amps? If so, which did you prefer, and why? And on what speakers?
Also, of the one you preferred, do you prefer it over every other amplifier you’ve ever heard? If not, what non-GaN amp do you enjoy more?
@milpai Do you own his newer stuff or the units he released about 15 years ago. The originals. |
@milpai I have not heard any other GaN amps but after reading several reviews and watching some reviews on YouTube I felt comfortable with my purchase and if I did not care for the LAIV GaNM I could have returned it, but I'm very happy with my purchase. I do own the class D Red Dragon monoblocks and the Class D Audio Stereo amp. I was considering the Orchard STARKRIMSON MONO ULTRA PREMIUM, the Atma-Sphere Class D, the AGD The Audion MKIII, and the Premium GaN Mono-Block amplifiers from Class D Audio. Since I own the LAIV DAC and their UDDC I thought I'd stay with the synergy they will create. All the amps you mentioned above are good solid choices and you can't go wrong. |
No issues at all. Being on this site for about 20 years now - I very well know the "regulars" and you are one of them! Good to know that the LAIV have provided you with a realistic sound - especially when you have experienced all the very nice amps. Something to consider in the future, if I have to change my amplifier. Any other Class D topology that you have experinced Vs GaN amps? I am intrigued by the NAD M23 V2 or AGD. But then again I read a thread where a Coda S5.5 (Class A 50Watts) sounded much more powerful than a Pass 250.8 (250Watts). Confusing to make a decision without hearing one. Thanks for the feedback about the LAIV.
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@milpai I'm not ignoring your question, I presently don't have the time to correctly answer. If this helps, I currently own and use the following amps and integrated amps; Allnic T-1500 300B, Luxman 590 AX II, Plinius SA Reference, Coincident Frankenstien MK IV monoblocks, Coincident Frankenstien 300B Stereo, CJ Classic 60, Red Dragon 500 monoblocks. Thus far I have not found any cons for the LAIV GaNM. What I do like about the LAIV GaNM is the music sounds more realistic with micro details being more pronounced.
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@lak , What was your previous amplifier? Can you please describe the changes that the LAIV brought to your system - pros and cons - if you don't mind? |
@f1a I own the LAIV Harmony GaNM monoblocks. They sound very good. I suggest you watch the Youtube video that Steve Huff did regarding the monoblocks, I agree with his review. Other reviewers also have reviews out on Youtube, so far all is very good. |
Thanks. Just confirmed a Dutch hacker messed up my website buddy's sites. Should be fixed by Friday latest. Sigh. Feel free to reach out at ernest_meunier@msn.com in the meantime, or call me at 781 526 3860 anytime. ErnieM |
@subaruguru your website doesn't work |
And so the parade starts.... I have huge respect for Ralph, Michal and Leo...but as well the positive aspects of careful modifications. After living with the Orchard Audio ULTRA amps for a couple of years (they quickly supplanted my Pass Labs Monos) I decided to build a pair up from their modules with my own ArgentPur solid silver cabling wherever possible, inc all ps, input and output leads. We quickly acknowledged a similar improvement in top octave detail and soundstage dimension and "realness" (without brightness) that I and others were used to enjoying with my AgPur speaker and interconnecting cables. I teamed up with Orchard's previous assembler, chased a nice solid alum chassis, a more efficient SMPS, added a couple of tweaks (Mundorfs et al), and am now offering ArgentPur Monoblocs to the market. We're shunning front end voicing, aiming for that "straight wire with gain"; you get the great cake and frost it yourselves with a fine pre and/or exceptional DAC. Both RCA or XLR inputs; small form factor for placement flexibility. Power and noise specs are identical to Orchard's ULTRA (500w 4ohms, 120dB), and can be seen on the ArgentPur.audio website. Initial early adopter pricing is only $2950 ($5900/pr). We have a few pairs performing demos and out for review, hoping to start mass production this summer. The aim of this tiny startup is to compete in the $10-20k/pr arena with very fine performance at considerable savings. There will probably be deep discounts for AgPur cables when bundled, as well, as the advantages of solid pure silver are indeed additive. Feel free to call to discuss your needs. As so eloquently described by Michal above, the combination of exquisite Class A mids and top octaves and rock-solid bass in a cool-running format is now at hand. I'm grateful to Leo for his phenomenal GAN-FET design, and wish Ralph and Michal great success with their iterations. Hope I can have just a tiny slice of the pie. ErnieM
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Mytek Audio features Empire Stereo Monoblocks GanFET Amplifiers at the Munich High End Show. Munich, High End Show, May 7, 2024, For immediate release
The cutting edge Class D GanFET technology uses Gallium Nitrade transistors that are up to 30 times fast than silicon MosFETs traditionally used in current Class D designs where their slow speed is the main factor limiting the low resolution detail. GanFET transistors bring this detail back out resulting in a substantially larger soundstage, and warm, tube like velvety top and midrange, while also providing tight grip of the bass response and transients. “Mytek Tube” is used as a visual effect to reflect the amp sonic qualities and has no electronic function. Each amp is shipped with additional aluminum cover without the tube for the customers preferring a more minimal design.
The Stereo Monoblocks can operate as stereo 2x400W/4Ω or 2x200W/8Ω, or in mono biamp mode, and in mono bridge mode at 800W/4Ω or 400W/8Ω. The amplifiers use a large 800W toroidal power supply with automatic power line voltage detection circuit and robust protection circuitry with firmware upgrades possible via USB.
SPECIFICATIONS:
OUTPUT STAGE: GANFET TRANSISTORS CLASS D AT 768kHz POWER: Stereo Mode: 2x400W/4Ω or 2x200W/8Ω POWER: Biamp Mode: 2x400W/4Ω or 2x200W/8Ω POWER: Bridge Mode: 800W/4Ω or 400W/8Ω THD: 0.005% (average level) GAIN: 23 or 29 dB INPUT: RCA or XLR. INPUT IMPEDANCE: 10kOhm OUTPUT IMPEDANCE: <20mΩ Bandwidth: 2Hz-70kHz MAX CURRENT OUTPUT: 100 Amps POWER SUPPLY: Linear Toroid 800W, regulated for input stage LINE POWER: 100-240VAC Auto DIMENSIONS: WxDxH=8.5x14x3.5 inch =216x355x89mm WEIGHT: 30lbs, 14kg
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Mytek Audio of New York has been working on our own version of the GanFET amps and we just began shipping the Empire Stereo Monoblocks which are exceptional. Tube like top and midrange, non fatiguing for hours of listening, detail and resolution throughout the whole spectrum, transistor tight controlled bass, the best of both worlds (tubes or transistors). Minimal feedback, behavior reminiscent of Class A, they work well without feedback too. IMO this technology is so good it will be a dominant amplifier technology in 10 years. There is a magic to the smooth velvety tube like top the no class AB amp can do due to absolutely linear transfer function of the amp that does not need feedback to correct the AD transistor curve. We just showed The Empire Stereo Monoblocks at Munich High End 2024 and had repeated visitors returning to the room again and again because of this. Michal at Mytek, Chief Designer |
@koh_i_noor We believe its the filter caps in the power supply forming up to their operating voltage. We thought that since our amp runs a lot of feedback and is thus able to reject a lot of power supply issues that break-in would not happen. But very consistent customer reports indicate otherwise. |
I have the Shultz midded LSA Voyager GAN amplifier. The error is by omission not commission. It is a fantastic, clean, crystalline and extended amplifier from the midbass on up. What it lacks is that meat on the bones from the midbass and lower frequencies. My modded JC1 Parasound monoblocks and Pass Labs X250.5 amps by comparison have a bit more meat on the bones to my ears. |
For reasons so obvious they don't bear mentioning, Ralph has earned credibility with his products over decades. The endless essay writing challenging Ralph in seemingly every class D thread is tiresome, and I simply read all the atmasphere posts so I can learn about this technology, skip all the posturing, and try and see if any on-topic posts might be spotted among the dross. |
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For $4000 or less you can have a whole DAC/volume control/amp/speaker/wires system that will be in a whole nuther level way above a stock inexpensive magneplanar driven by very good DAC and Preamp and amp. Minidsp Flex $500, Fossi amp for bass $100, Aegir for highs $800, 4 12 inch Beyma 12BR70 woofs $700, 8 Parts Express Planar 8 inch drivers $500, wood $300, cables $1000. You could just use 2 planars and spend less. Open baffle about 5 feet high and 16 inches wide (way less high if only using one planar).....at least doubled up three quarter inch birch ply. The Minidsp does the xover, the DACing, the volume control (remote control with presets) and even has an analog input to add tuner, phono stage or whatever. With fully equalized and time aligned open baffle woofers and planars (crossed over around 400hz). the sound would blow your mind. The two woofers run in parallel would be around 95db sensitive and the four planars in series parallel would be the same.....easy to drive.....will play 110db......ROCK OUT! Why would anyone want a veiled Magnepan that needs a $4000 amp to drive it properly? Yes, it is smaller......but if you really wanted small you could mount two Purifi woofs in a slim box and put the planar on an open baffle above....still worlds better than a magnepan. Of course, you could do the above with a Minidsp Flex (digital version).....and use two modified GaN based digital amps (GaN 1 or VTV D300). This would be more costly. I totally get that most do not want to build anything......just want plug and play. But this is sooooooooooo simple. You could have a local woodworker make the baffles and stands really quickly.......finish them anyway you like. If you went blind into a room at a show and someone played this system.....you would guess it would be $100K or more........Of course, you could take an ET 8b speaker and tweak it to the hilt and get rid of its woofer and add an open baffle next to it with two 12s that was separately amped and eqed and probably get even better sound (better planars). But this is cheaper and easier to do and the planars are much more efficient. The latest Minidsp units are really great......for those measurement people, here is a review on ASR https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/minidsp-flex-review-audio-dsp.30804/ |
I got the $800 Schitt Aegir 20-watt Class A amp this afternoon. I am listening to it via my Benchmark LA4 preamp and Benchmark DAC3B. The GAN400 used to be in place of the Aegir. The amp is connected to the RAAL TI-1b interface box. I am using the RAAL SR1a phone into the TI-1b. When I had the GAN400 in the path, I had a hum with 16 Ohm setting on the interface box using RCA inputs. The hum was was lowered wit the 32 Ohm setting (or maybe the other way around). When using XLR inputs into the TI-1b the hum went away, but I need to use RCA out from the LA4 since the XLR go to the MagTech amp & LRS+. I had no hum issue with the Aegir and RCA. I have not tested XLR with the Aegir since I would need 2 Aegir’s to do that. Cut to the chase. The sound difference between the GAN400 and the Aegir was rather big. The Aegir is warmer, just as detailed, juicer and much like the CODA #16 and the TI-1b. Incredible for $800. The GAN400 is a flatter sound and while very good with the SR1a, it is not at the same level as the Aegir. I need to decide if I am going to keep the GAN400. I do not like having extra gear around. If I sell it it will be for $1200.
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I recently received the Sanders Sound Systems Magtech amp. 500 @ 8 | 900 @ 4. I paid $4k used from Sanders. I will keep it short, the Magtech is much better on the Magnepan LRS+ than the PeachTree GAN400. The panels sound like a totally different speaker with the Magtech. I would even say the Magtech + LRS+ is even better than the CODA #16 + LRS+. I was worried that the Class AB Magtech would be grainy. Not so at all, a great top end. The bass is the hardest hitter of the 3 amps mentioned. Just a shockingly good pairing. I have my Peachtree GAN400 as a headphone amp now and it was not too bad. I have a $800 Schitt Class A Aegir amp coming today that will have to duke it out with the GAN400.
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Interesting comment. And you just poked the bear. It’s a very smart bear too, who knows these woods well, better than most who travel these forests. LOL 😂
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🙄 We've had optional damping packages available for our products for decades. We have lots of feedback and experience with a variety of damping systems (footers, stands and platforms) as well as extensional and constrained layer damping materials. I've consulted with engineers at firms that make damping materials and damping equipment, some of whom are also customers. Any of them, looking at your post to which I responded earlier, would simply say you don't know what you're talking about. Some gear is far more sensitive to vibration than others; I've yet to run into a situation where such equipment received too much damping. OTOH I've seen poor or incompetent attempts at damping that has exacerbated problems in the equipment. That is why the myth of 'overdamping' is around. The effect of good damping is easy to hear and measure. |
@derekw_hawaii On TMR a Magtech came up for sale at $2800. I think it sold in minutes. I then contacted MagTech and discussed a few things with them. I bought a used Magtech from them for $4K. This amp was given a thorough update from MagTech. There was an issue I was reading about for heat and the MagTech (on A’gon). It seems it was an issue with some part from Motorola. That was rectified in 2015 so I am expecting my unit to also have the updated part. I get the amp on Tuesday. Send me a DM if you want to get my opinion. This is the GAN thread so I will not digress more on it. |
@yyzsantabarbara thanks for the update and no worries. Coincidentally, Roger's Magtech also has my attention, though budget and heat is a concern. I look forward to your listening observations via a vis the amps you have and had in your stable, and am curious as to how much heat the Magtech generate. |
@derekw_hawaii Sorry to inform you that I have not sent the amp in to Ric (yet). I am not sure if I will sell it so I may not mod it. Since I sold my amazing RAAL VM-1a this week I needed to figure out how to get both my RAAL phones and my LRS+ to work with the gear I have. One result of this finding lead me to buy the Sanders Sound System MagTech amp today as the replacement for the GAN400 with the LRS+. I have been using the GAN400 with the RAAL phones the last couple of days and it is very good, but still has that slight hardness. I will use the GAN400 this way for a while. The KRELL Duo XD amps are better on the phones than the GAN400 but I have no money or space for the KRELL at the moment. I am listening to Robbie Robertson’s debut album on the LRS+ and the GAN400 as I type this, and I have never heard this album sound so good. I used to listen to this album at least once a week for maybe a decade. The 2 best speakers I had in the past were the Thiel CS3.7 and Revel Salon 1, but this LRS+ is just killing both of those with this album. Incredible sound for $1000. The GAN400 is also responsible for this so do not let my comments indicate that the GAN400 is a bad amp. Even though I have not modded the GAN400 I do not expect Ric to make it sound even close to the CODA #16. The PeachTree GAN1 is an entirely different animal and I like that whole modded GAN1 system almost as much as the #16. I say this as someone who had Ric mod the LSA Voyager 350 GAN amplifier. He made it sound much better. However, it was not as good overall as my CODA #8 with my Thiel CS3.7 (both now sold). The GAN400 is the same internally as the Voyager (per Ric), though sounds stronger on the bass region. If the KRELL Duo were not in the back of my mind, I would have already sent the GAN400 for mods. The CODA #16 is incredible. One reason I had comfort in buying the Magtech today is because I believe CODA made that amp for Sanders. Roger Sanders helped me figure out how to best setup the RAAL phones and speakers with my remaining gear. Great customer service.
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Yes, its cheaper if you buy it directly from Giandel (for now). If you cannot figure out this inverter thing with research then just call me......I can walk you through it. I will put more info on my site in a few days that will give more detail about the inverter and battery requirements. We have taken this thread way away from amps......but with good intention......so, any more amp info? |
Ric, is this the one you mean https://www.amazon.com/GIANDEL-Inverter-Outlets-Controller-Emergency/dp/B092QS7NWJ |
I trust you for sure...And the ears of your friends... You are right there is no simple absolute solution wrapped in one box...
I will go the road of opting out of the grid.... 😊 the cheapest upgrade is this 700 bucks gisandel... my audio system is so perfect now for my ears i sense the only big elephant is the noise floor... Going from the house i sold to the other i bought was illuminating ... It was an improvement... but i must go off the grid....Your solution is the cheapest i had seen... By the way look the battery i discovered... A deal i think 500 canadian dollars ...
I own a Sansui alpha 607i i think the consumption is 380 watts 460 VA rated 720 watts maxinmum ... What do you think ? I use a small battery dac .... I like it... Then only my amplifier will be on the Gisandel+ battery...
On your site you suggested a more powerful inverter 5,000 watts than the one you suggested here, 2000 watts, my question is : with my amplifier Sansui would i have enought hours of music between battery charge ?
I am not an electrical engineer , i apologize for the simplistic question ...😊
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I use an all in one Goal Zero 400 watt inverter (do not recommend). I modified it so its fan will not come on. I cannot afford even the $300 Giandel right now (soon, I hope....please send money....he he). I have turned on several people to the Giandel thing and they all think it is the cats meow. Please read my website for more info. And read the review by Jason Serinus in Stereophile (review posted online) about his experience with the Stromtank inverter. He loves the $16000 Stomtank.....which is basically, maybe as good as the $700 Giandel system. Please research and read up.....this is not that new. Yes, a great line filter (expecially the Puritain filter) after the Inverter will clean up more noise and give you even more transparency. This game is complicated. There is no "silver bullet"......you know.....that ONE thing you do that will make it all perfect. It is a constant upleveling of every single part of your stereo. But if you do not have the AC done well.....then everything just magnifies the distortion from the wall. Get off the frickin grid! Its cheap.....and mind blowing. |
I understand.... but did you use it yourself?
It seems a problem to buy one with a low noise floor... using an inverter in audio ask for a really low noise floor if not where is the advantage ?
Did you have one inverter in your own audio system ?
I decided to go this road instead of upgrading my Sansui alpha amplifier... now it seems not a so evident solution...😁
I had no idea about an inverter dedicated for audio use...
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I am not sure the inverter recommended by ricevs has a low noise floor and is good for an audio system...
One reviewer say this :
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Thanks very much... Very useful.... i did not have the right one i take note of the right one...
Did you use them in your audio system ?
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@mahgister this is the inverter Ric was referencing Amazon is $20 more than buying from Giandel directly. https://www.amazon.com/GIANDEL-Inverter-Outlets-Controller-Emergency/dp/B092QS7NWJ/ref=asc_df_B092QS7NWJ?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79920877695300&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583520399131091&psc=1
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@mahgister 12 volt is best to start out with. 12v Inverters are less expensive. I have 24v system but use 2 batteries for emergency back up outlet charged by solar panels. I haven’t set it up for audio. Here’s a more economical battery set: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08KY3TXR4/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_7?smid=A3Q7KLHJWGNPC8&psc=1 |