What are the best GaN Amplifiers available today?

@blisshifi gotcha. Is the A Vs M just a monoblocks differential or is there any difference to build? I'd definitely be interested if you get to hear a pair. I've been curious about the Mola Mola class D, but $15k is a little too steep for me to experiment.

Mola Mola Class D is ancient in Class D terms. 

@j-wall The M-200 is largely similar in design to the A 200 but from what I understand. it is not simply a bridged version of the A 200, but optimized to deliver even against more difficult impedance loads. I have heard the M 200 with the DAC 200 with the T+A Talis S 300 speakers in someone’s home. I have similar equipment and speakers here on my floor except for having the A 200 and not the M 200. Unfortunately room and setup plays a major factor. His room was “alive”, completely untreated, with speakers only less than two feet from the wall, whereas my room is treated and speakers have much more room to breathe. I don’t feel like I got an understanding of the true performance of the M 200 in his room, but I would say the sonic signature is more similar than it is alike.

I’ll note that I was being critical on my previous post on the A 200 and that I sometimes lack awareness of how critical I am being. My comments on qualms are merely based against very much more expensive amplifiers. For its price range, it gets really close to being endgame as long as you like the sonic presentation of T+A gear. I should also note that I want to be able to compare any GaN amps I can get my hands on against the T+A A 200 so I understand the performance differences in each.

I agree with @yyzsantabarbara that the Mola Mola monos are old news and there are better amps for cheaper. It’s not Class D, but as I have encouraged higher in the thread, the Cambridge EDGE series right now has my favorite cost-to-performance components. The amplifiers do not replace my $40K T+A HV series components, but I could very well live with them and they are a fraction of the price. Their Class XA topology is interesting and they deliver an incredible blend of musicality (albeit slightly less soulful as T+A), and more incision / detail in a way that is very holographic, all while having the qualities of a Class A amplifier.

@blisshifi I saw your mention the Cambridge and have read a few accolades on them. I usually mischaracterize their equipment as budget and I should really give it a shot instead of poor blanket statements. The XA topology is interesting I'll have to check out the consumption figures. My biggest proponent of class D is the heat factor. I've been searching for an amp that cuts the heat, but still sounds good which is why I've landed on the Atma-sphere's. Lowest heat rating from a specification page that I've found and supporting a small USA company is a plus. 

@yyzsantabarbara that's good to hear. I was hoping to avoid having the drop that much on a pair. I just saw TMR is now an authorized dealer and they're up for $15k of I remember correctly so figured they still were relevant and compete with the newer stuff. I have seen used pairs pop up for very fair pricing though. 

@j-wall I agree with you on your perception of Cambridge Audio and have shared it myself. I was honestly floored by their EDGE line’s performance, which is why I dedlcided to deal for them. The only items I carry on my floor are their EDGE electronics and one EVO 150, which is more attractive for the lifestyle audience. The EDGE significantly outperforms the EVO on many levels. But yes, while it’s not as hot as Class A or tubes, it’s still about as hot as an A/B amplifier and will use more electricity in idle mode. The qualities you mention, along with smaller form factors and less weight are all great reasons to go Class D. 

@blisshifi How does the Cambridge Audio Edge M compare to your other amps. Is it a warm sound or more neutral? I am looking for a neutral sounding amp and monos would be great since I have my fav speaker cable gathering dust (very short length). I am looking for something like the Benchmark AHB2 but with more low-end grunt. This is to pair with my Yamaha NS5000.

I realized that this speaker can also use power. It sounds very good with the Class A CODA #16, but I am thinking a slightly more neutral sound would be even better. The CODA #16 is phenomenal with my Magnepan LRS+.

At the moment, the SimAudio lineup seems to be where I am heading, but I am also looking for lower cost alternatives.

Sadly I don’t have the EDGE M - only the EDGE A integrated and EDGE NQ Streaming DAC Preamp. The integrated and the EDGE W power amp are identical in design aside from the identical volume stage found in the EDGE NQ also being present in the EDGE A. I am hoping to order the EDGE M in the next month or two, but they are in a queue behind some other gear my business needs to fund.

I would say that the performance of the EDGE A is very linear, even more than the T+A A 200, whose measurements show its frequency response to be truly linear. I wouldn’t characterize it as warm at all, though one review mentioned that. I would say there is a musicality / soulfulness to it that may be characterized as smooth in delivery, but it is not warm or rich compared to T+A electronics. This is not to say that T+A is warm (I actually disagree with the poster who said T+A is warm - I find the HV Series DAC to be very rich with harmonics and tonally dense in the best way possible, but the HV amp and power supply is incredibly neutral, but refined and will reveal whatever sonic signature is otherwise in the chain).

The EDGE is incredibly revealing, less effortless/refined than the T+A electronics as well. I typically prefer highly refined electronics, but in this case, the way the EDGE images and engages is I believe close to being unparalleled in its class.

With a few speakers, I didn’t feel like the EDGE A’s amplification was lacking at all. This includes the Vivid Kaya 90, Legacy Audio Signature SE, and Scansonic MB-5B. The amp paired especially well with the Legacy and Vivid speakers. With Borresen 02 and T+A Solitaire S 530, I started to lose a little bit of control when over 95db peaks in a medium to large sized room (19x23 with ceiling slant up to 18ft). I rarely ever listen that loud, but it is part of my normal evaluation procedure. This is likely due to the impedance dips these speakers may have in certain frequency ranges. Regardless, of the hundreds of amps I’ve ever owned, if someone was looking for a great all-arounder integrated, the EDGE A gets my highest recommendation, even above some of the higher integrated amps I’ve heard and can offer. It performs at the level of quality separates.

The EDGE M is double the power and capacitance and is said to add effortlessness and improved control and depth to the sound. I am already very impressed with the way the EDGE A portrays depth, I can only imagine how much better the EDGE M are. I’ll inquire with Cambridge on preparing to acquire an EDGE M this coming week.

I am the person that said the HV sounds a little warm, which most people like. I think it sounds like the amazing KRELL Duo XD (owned before) that I have raved about.  However, I do not think it would pair well with the NS5000 that I have now. I can get a used KRELL Dou 300XD for $6K. It would be very good for sure but maybe not great.

I do know the Vivid Kaya 90. I demoed it with the NS5000 and Magico A3. The NS5000 was the worst sounding of the 3, but I guessed correctly that it sounded bad because of the glass walled room + furniture I heard it in.

I think I should hear this Edge M before I send 2x more on the SimAudio.

@yyzsantabarbara Ha! All good on the T+A comment. I used to think T+A was on the warm side but I realize it’s more prominent in their HV series DACs (also controllable through the DAC filters) vs their amplification and preamplification. 

Bear in mind the EDGE M are not Class D, heavier at 50+ lbs each and will heat as much as a Class AB amp. If that is suitable, then yes, definitely try!

@yyzsantabarbara .....I don't own the T+A but do own the Aavik U-150 integrated Class D Amp. The Soundstage is the Deepest I've ever heard ( if you don't like Forward)  The width also extends way beyond the physical speakers. It plays with delicacy and Authority. the most important thing is that I love how it Draws me right into the music....Even at low volume.....The T+A I've only read how good it is.

@yyzsantabarbara I'm surprised you've never heard the Aavik. Last year I purchased the Aavik U-280 integrated amplifier, which is basically Aavik's integrated amp (I-280) and DAC (D-280) in a single chassis. After owning several tube and solid state amps (including Audio Research, Luxman amongst many others) at various price points, I can safely say that this Aavik amp has surpassed my expectations. It has the three dimensional holographic sound of tubes but also the detail, clarity and bass slam that only very excellent SS amps provide. It is also simultaneously musical -- as in it draws me into the music. To this date, no other amp has had an iron grip on my Joseph Audio Perspective2 speakers like the Aavik does. The dealer I worked with provides free in-home auditions, of course you pay shipping but only in case you decide to not keep it. One of the best audio decisions I've made in a long time ... my electric bill agrees with this sentiment as well :)

@blisshifi My friend Andy Miles is an Aavik and Borreson dealer. I heard Aavik gear against Mola Mola and I also heard all the Audionet stuff. He uses Mola Mola Kalugas and Makua on his Borreson O5’s with a Lampizator Horizon DAC and an Aurender W20SE. He uses an Aavik I 280 integrated on his YG Carmel 2. The Aavik DAC is decent but
I never heard the T+A stuff since no dealers really are carrying them much. My Audionet dealer has hear T+A over in Germany and the Audionet gear he said has just more control over the drivers and is cleaner.
I also heard the Gryphon Distributor basically say T+A

is huge in Germany and good until you get to the REALLY high end stuff Gryphon does and the Apex and Commander crushes the T+A in the very high end. He is also biased and I never heard the Gryphon too stuff just their cheaper older

muddy mosfet gear before they switched to bipolar transistors.
I also was unimpressed with AGD stuff. My favorite amp is the new Krell 400 watt class A amp. Nothing is a better package for 35k until you get to the Audionet Heisenburg.

My other friend who is a reviewer for the Absolute Sound also has a Pilium Stack. That stuff is between Aavik and Audionet. It’s very good but quirky…there is no soft start to turn it on. 

@pennfootball71 All good stuff there.

I can see where Andy Miles may get good synergy using Lampizator Horizon and the Kalugas. I prefer not to introduce tubes to a source any longer and will either only have them in a preamp or power amp, for consistency’s sake across sources. The Kalugas, in my opinion, need tubes somewhere in their chain to sound their best. I think an all Aavik top level system sounds better, but it just gets subjective at that level.

I’ve had a few Audionet pieces in house, though none of the reference gear they make. In my experience, from hearing reference Audionet gear in other people’s homes and at shows, while the higher end models like Humboldt, Stern, and Heisenberg may have more control, they are also more refined / have a softer delivery. The price differences are significant, as well. The Humboldt monoblocks are $120K. The T+A A 3000 HV in stereo is $22,500. What many people don’t realize is the modularity of the T+A HV amplification stack. First, the $15K PS 3000 HV can be added to the power amp to enable a dedicated power supply for the output stage with 120,000uF capacitance, leaving the power supply in the A 3000 HV amplifier with its 120,000uF to handle the input stage. You could also set the amplifier to mono and as a result have two amplifiers each with the optional PS 3000 HV power supply. This then allows for 380wpc into 8 Ohm and 650wpc into 4 Ohm with 1/4 Farad of capacitance per channel. This configuration delivers significantly better control and soundstaging than a single stereo stack can, and its combined retail is still 60% of the cost of the Audionet Humboldt mono blocks. I’m not certain that your Audionet dealer has heard the T+A electronics in this configuration. At this level, again, I think it falls into subjective preference. I LOVE Audionet equipment with a passion, but I also know through experience that they are more tonally rich, a bit more colored than T+A.

You are right that the Gryphon Apex and Commander “crush” the T+A stack, but at truly diminishing returns. That combo is one I have heard that bests the T+A fairly well in just about everything in my opinion, but again, some people may not prefer the tonal richness of the Gryphon stack - it all comes down to pairing to get system synergy. That said, I am a Vivid Audio dealer and have a close friend just a few towns over who has the Gryphon Apex and Commander stack hooked up to a pair of Vivid Giya G1 Spirit, and it is honestly in the top three systems I’ve ever heard in my life - the combination of live presence, tonal richness, control and holographic richness is intoxicating - but also consider the Apex amp on its own is $100K, and the preamp is $63K, DAC is extra… the pricing is also significantly higher than T+A.

I’ve been less impressed with Pilium electronics but it could have just been the rooms and pairings I’ve heard from them in shows.

This weekend heard the HiFi Rose integrated amps at an audio show and they were pretty spectacular. Using Gallium Nitride FETs. Is this the same as GaN?

Using Gallium Nitride FETs. Is this the same as GaN?

@mjcmt Yes.

@pennfootball71 My favorite amp is the new Krell 400 watt class A amp. Nothing is a better package for 35k until you get to the Audionet Heisenburg.

Can you tell us more about the sound of the KRELL. I am a huge Duo XD fan and had 2 of those items recently. I actually bought a heavy-duty amp stand just for the Krell K400i amp. I am thinking of pivoting away from the KRELL because the speakers I have now may not match with the buttery smoothness of the KRELL XD. I was expecting to pair KEF Blade 2 Meta with the 400i but changed my mind on the speakers. Do you have experience with the lower model Duo XD and how it compares with the new 400i?

The fact that it weighs 160 lbs is also something I am debating on.

@arafiq Only thing I have heard about the Aavrik is what you posted. I am starting to think that Class D is a little lacking on the low end. I never had anything in Class D in the Aavrik price range so I may be wrong.

However, compared to the CODA #16 and KRELL Duo 175XD that I recently had in the house all my Class D amps were not as dynamic on the bottom. I finally put the CODA #16 together with the Schitt Yggi+ Less is More DAC (amazing DAC do not let the price fool you, like it more than the Lumin X1). What synergy, now my problem is that I also want that level of amp for my office system. The PeachTree GAN400 is not cutting it with my Magnepan LRS+. It is really good but in comparison to the CODA #16 it is far behind. The Maggie’s seem to be very responsive to better quality gear.

@yyzsantabarbara yea older Krell products not in the same league and a waste of time. 
What’s your budget? If you wait also look at the new Gryphon Diablo 333 integraded.

@pennfootball71 the 2 most recent KRELL models I spoke of are the same as the KRELL 400i except for the lack of fans and the new 2nd order harmonics feature Krell talks about. The 400i also is more robust than the lower models and can even go down to 1 Ohm if your house can handle it. My issue is not budget (just work longer if needed) I am looking at synergy. I am wondering if the 400i is also very smooth on top like the XD models that it is based on. I know it is great but great and synergy with my speakers could conflict.

Gryphon is on the other side of my sound preference. At least what I heard in the past. My interest now after exploring a few Class D options are:

• SimAudio North Collection 861 (available in Oct 2023)
• T+A A3000HV (if it is as neutral as @blisshifi says, it also has a great dual zone feature that would allow me to sell a $7K headphone amp)
• CODA #16 (get another one because it is great)
• KRELL Duo 300XD (at $6k used, if I use it only in the office with the LRS+). The 400i was my first target but I am waffling on that due to potential sonic synergy issues with the Yamaha NS5000 speaker. The weight is also at the top of what I can safely carry up the stairs without banging into things.

I may also buy the KEF Blade 2 Meta in about 5 years when it is safe to do so. At the moment my house is crazy with too much running around that could knock over the Blade. The 400i would be a great match with the Blade.

@yyzsantabarbara...First of all it’s Aavik....not Aavrik....and quit comparing a 2K amp to a 15K amp... Compare your Coda to an equivalently priced amp. The Coda is overpriced...the Peachtree Isn’t.

@mbmi Have you heard the CODA #16? To my ears, it is one of the very best amps out there, and I have a feeling a lot of others feel that way. The CODA #16 is as good as the T+A HV, which I am considering today for my LRS+ and RAAL SR1a & CA-1a. The CODA #16 is also bit better than KRELL Duo XD which I owned. The same model I owned just came up for sale at a super low price, I may buy that instead. Cheap price must mean it is not so good? Good thing I have owned and heard the KRELL before to know better.

The best amp I have heard and owned, the AHB2, costs $3.3K new, but it is not as good on hard to drive speakers. But that top end is unsurpassed paired with the right preamp and speakers. Have you heard that amp? The CODA comes close to the top end of the AHB2 but not as good, but the CODA also has killer bass with hard to drive speakers.  If you have an easy to drive speaker the much cheaper AHB2 could be better. How could that be, it is lower in cost?

You have not heard a modded Peachtree GAN1? Your opinion is based on more money is better. Good for us, it helps keep the economy moving. The modded GAN1 amp is almost as good on my RAAL VM-1a headphone amp. I sold the RAAL amp today for $5k in about 4 hours after posting on Head-fi that I was selling it. Do you know how good the VM-1a is? People in the know on the phone community know the RAALs with the VM-1a maybe unsurpassed at ANY PRICE.

The Peachtree GAN1 and CODA #16 are almost as good as the VM-1a on the phones. On an easier to drive speakers that same comparison can apply to the GAN1 vs #16. How could that be the GAN1 is so much cheaper, blasphemy. Or could it be the totally different design of the GAN1 (and the mods)?

I owned and compared a $2.5k Yggi+ LM DAC with a $15K Lumin X1 streamer/DAC. When I added a fibre streamer to the Yggi+ it made the total about $5K. To my ears the Yggi+ LM stayed and the X1 went bye-bye. So again, cheaper was better. 

Quit giving advice on things you have no knowledge one. Remember what Mark Twain said on speaking out about things you know nothing about.

What the hell are you talking about....Confusing post.....you’re all over the place......no , I haven’t heard your CODA but I bet it’s fantastic.......MEH...end of discussion!

Paired my GaN 400 with a Rogue RP-1. After upgrading the stock tubes in the Rogue to Gold Lions, I'm getting very nice results -- not at all like the typical class D I've heard in the recent past (also the case before the recent tube swap, but now there's more natural-sounding goodness). Just my 2 cents.

I heard the AGD amps at an audio show last weekend. Beautiful to gaze upon and sublime to listen to.

https://agdproduction.com/products/

Using a Gan 1 or VTV 300 in your system is a lot simpler and cheaper than using other GaN or mosfet class d systems.  When yyz is comparing his less than $2K (WITH MODS) GaN 1 with his $12K amp he is also using a $3K preamp and a $2K DAC with analog interconnects into the $12K amp.  You also need 2 more power cords using an analog class d amp.....unless you are using the volume control in your DAC.  The GaN 1 is being driven directly from a streamer or other digital source using a digital volume control.......seriously way less money.   When he complains about the GaN 1 being a pain in the arse its because he wants to use tuners and subs that might not be compatible with the GaN 1 outputs.  I have a streamer going directly to my VTV D300 digital amp and then directly to my speakers.....most of you reading this do not have vinyl or tuners or whatever.  Of course, with intelligence you can interface many things to a digital amp (including phono stages and subs).

Besides modding your class d amp (analog or digital).....you can do some things that will bring parts of your system and even your entire system to another level:  These things are for class a, class ab and tubed gear as well:

1. Damping chassis and heatsinks.  The cover on the VTV amps and the Orchard amps are really thin and ringy.  Add some damped weight on top for much better sound.  My friend is using the Parasound JC 1+ amps and I told him to damp the heatsinks and top cover.....way better sound.  He used a small 1 inch wide strip of EAR SD40AL constrained layer damping material (sold by Micheal Percy Audio) down the middle of the tips of the fins on both sides of the amp.  He then put some damped weight on the amp.......loves it.  He also damped the heatsinks on his Rythmic Audio servo sub amps........tighter bass.  DO NOT OVERDAMP!....listen for best sound.   

2.  Serious feet underneath a component are necessary.  I use the best Mad Scientist feet and underneath that are two different types of hardwood shelves (Maple on top of bamboo) sitting on an inner tube with barely any air in it so it resonates under 5 cycles.

3.  Here is a seriously great upgrade for you all.............GET OFF THE GRID!!!!!  Run you entire system on an inverter.  The Giandel PS2000SAR...2000 watt pure sine wave inverter is on sale right now for $289 delivered.  Buy a $300 100 amp hour LifePo 4 battery and a 20 amp charger and for around $700 total....you will be mind blown.  The same great sound day and night.  Always sounds the same.  The inverter will sound better by itself than most expensive line conditioners and you can use it in front of a great line conditioner (like the Puritan) for even better sound.  All inverters put out some noise.....but it is way better than the wall.  You have NO IDEA how transformative this is.  I just turned on someone to this system and he was already using the Core Audio isolation transformer on his system (low powered tube amp driving modified Klipsch speakers).  He just called me today and said the inverter made it sound way better.  He is still using the core audio thang but will plug the stuff directly into the inverter and see what the difference is when adding the isolation transformer.  The fan in any Giandel inverter does not come on till you are running at least 40 % of its rated power.  So, a 2000 watt inverter will only run its fan when it is pulling 800 or more continuous watts.......we don't want no stinkin fans going when listening to music.  Please see way more info on inverters on my website.  My friend with the JC 1+ amps uses the Giandel 5000 watter and two 200 amp hour batteries.....but he is drawing 700 watts continuous.......Us class D users need way, way less juice......smaller, lighter, less expensive and great sound.  Please read the review in Stereophile by Jason Serinus about his use of the Stromtank inverter ($16K!!!!!!).  This $700 Giandel system is probably as good or better and it can do more power....and you can hook up as much battery as you want.

I see this thread is growing. And there's more threads being started up (and not by me)....LOL !

Can i use it without battery directly from the wall connected to my amplifier ?

Will i see an improvement even without the battery ?

Can i bought the battery later or it is necessary to go with the battery too ?

The Giandel PS2000SAR...2000 watt pure sine wave inverter is on sale right now for $289 delivered.  Buy a $300 100 amp hour LifePo 4 battery and a 20 amp charger and for around $700 total....you will be mind blown. 

DO NOT OVERDAMP!

It is impossible to overdamp. If adding too much damping seems to mess things up its because the damping device or material really isn't that good at its job so its adding a coloration of its own.

FWIW I've found our class D amp to be quite resistant to effects from vibration. Damping seems to have no effect whatsoever. If you think about it this is not at all surprising. Damping isn't going to affect a device that is off nor one that is fully on (saturated). It might affect a device in its 'linear' region, but GANFETs and the devices driving them spend surprisingly little time in that region- they are very fast.

Ralph,

So, you are an expert on damping? You spent hundreds of hours with various damping materials and used them everywhere and you know which damping materials are linear and which are not and where to use it and where not to use it? I doubt it. I am not an expert....but I have spend countless hours damping things with various materials.....and all class D amps are sensitive to damping......and yes, you can overdamp. This is not a theory of mine. This is based on truth.....truth equals direct experience. I try lots of things and I listen. What did you try? Do you have great feet underneath your amps? Do you have them sitting on tricked out shelving and isolation platforms? I doubt it.

When my friend damped the heatsinks on his Parasound amps he first put too much on and it made the amps sound dead......but one....one inch wide strip down the middle of each heatsink improved the sound over not damping.....very serioulsy.  Yes, you can overdamp.  And this EAR material is the most linear I have found.....but you still have to be careful what you damp and how much you damp.....all determined by the EAR.....our best tool.

Some say "nothing makes a difference"......others say..."only what I say (usually by theory) makes a difference".......and others KNOW that "everything makes a difference".......and those are the people who open mindedly listen to lots and lots of things.....and the more they listen the more they know they know NOTHING.....because it is impossible to try everything. The game is infinite.

Here is another tidbit of info. The Pascal class D modules are very good by themselves. D-Sonic makes nice ones. However, Aavik uses these modules in their expnsive class D integrated amps but they add their "tesla coils". These are a filter that works better than normal inductors and caps (like what Ralph has on the input of his amps). The more expensive Aavik amps use the same Pascal modules and produces sound better......mainly because they have more of these "tesla coils". Please go to their site and read the info about these coils (passive and active versions). This is why an inverter is so important. You get rid of tons of noise and distortion right at the source.....the terrible AC line......you eliminate a lot of noise right there.....you cannot have enough noise reduction (determined by listening). Noise and distortion are the same thing.....noise is distortion......distortion is noise. When you have better footers and stands you have less noise.....when you raise your speaker cables off the floor you have less noise......it is infinite. It is not a theory......it is hearable.....it is truth.....truth is what you EXPERIENCE.

May you experience the Truth of your being......your beauty....your love.....your joy. It is always present.....with every breath. Breath it in....feel it...breath it out and bless others. Have a great every moment!

The Giandel PS2000SAR...2000 watt pure sine wave inverter is on sale right now for $289 delivered. 

is it the one you mentionned ?

https://www.amazon.ca/GIANDEL-2200-12-120-port/dp/B07CKBJ9KP?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&language=en_CA

If i pick this one do i need 12 volt or 24 volt for my Sansui 607i alpha  amplifier ?

is this battery will do the job ?

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08LD7PP8N/?coliid=I3A2B81EMULYS8&colid=1BP2ARF9W3KAX&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

@mahgister  12 volt is  best to start out with. 12v Inverters are less expensive. I have 24v system but use 2 batteries for emergency back up outlet charged by solar panels.  I haven’t set it up for audio.  

Here’s a more economical battery set:  

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08KY3TXR4/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_7?smid=A3Q7KLHJWGNPC8&psc=1

@mahgister  this is the inverter Ric was referencing Amazon is $20 more than buying from Giandel directly.

https://www.amazon.com/GIANDEL-Inverter-Outlets-Controller-Emergency/dp/B092QS7NWJ/ref=asc_df_B092QS7NWJ?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79920877695300&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583520399131091&psc=1

https://www.giandel.com/collections/for-usa/products/usa-ca-ps-2000sar-12v?spm=..collection_1420e790-75ee-4215-9a9b-b1784d20dde5.collection_1.27&spm_prev=..index.header_1.1

Thanks very much...

Very useful....

i did not have the right one i take note of the right one...

Did you use them in your audio system ?

@mahgister  this is the inverter Ric was referencing Amazon is $20 more than buying from Giandel directly.

https://www.amazon.com/GIANDEL-Inverter-Outlets-Controller-Emergency/dp/B092QS7NWJ/ref=asc_df_B092QS7NWJ?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79920877695300&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583520399131091&psc=1

https://www.giandel.com/collections/for-usa/products/usa-ca-ps-2000sar-12v?spm=..collection_1420e790-75ee-4215-9a9b-b1784d20dde5.collection_1.27&spm_prev=..index.header_1.1

 

@mahgister this is the inverter Ric was referencing Amazon is $20 more than buying from Giandel directly.

I am not sure the inverter recommended by ricevs has a low noise floor and  is good for an audio system...

https://www.amazon.com/GIANDEL-Inverter-Outlets-Controller-Emergency/dp/B092QS7NWJ/ref=asc_df_B092QS7NWJ?tag=bingshoppinga-20&amp=undefined&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79920877695300&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583520399131091&th=1

One reviewer say this :

Reviewed in the United States on May 14, 2023

I recommend that particular 2000 watt Giandel inverter because it is FCC approved so may have lower noise.

I understand.... but did you use it yourself?

I recommend that particular 2000 watt Giandel inverter because it is FCC approved so may have lower noise.

It seems a problem to buy one with a low noise floor...

using an inverter in audio ask for a really low noise floor if not where is the advantage ?

Did you have one inverter in your own audio system ?

I decided to go this road instead of upgrading my Sansui alpha amplifier...

now it seems not a so evident solution...😁

I had no idea about an inverter dedicated for audio use...

I use an all in one Goal Zero 400 watt inverter (do not recommend).  I modified it so its fan will not come on.  I cannot afford even the $300 Giandel right now (soon, I hope....please send money....he he).  I have turned on several people to the Giandel thing and they all think it is the cats meow.  Please read my website for more info.  And read the review by Jason Serinus in Stereophile (review posted online) about his experience with the Stromtank inverter.  He loves the $16000 Stomtank.....which is basically, maybe as good as the $700 Giandel system.  Please research and read up.....this is not that new.  Yes, a great line filter (expecially the Puritain filter) after the Inverter will clean up more noise and give you even more transparency.  This game is complicated.  There is no "silver bullet"......you know.....that ONE thing you do that will make it all perfect.  It is a constant upleveling of every single part of your stereo.  But if you do not have the AC done well.....then everything just magnifies the distortion from the wall.  Get off the frickin grid!  Its cheap.....and mind blowing.

I trust you for sure...And the ears of your friends...

You are right there is no simple absolute solution wrapped in one box...

I will go the road of opting out of the grid.... 😊

the cheapest upgrade is this 700 bucks gisandel...

my audio system is so perfect now for my ears i sense the only big elephant is the noise floor...

Going from the house i sold to the other i bought was illuminating ... It was an improvement...

but i must go off the grid....Your solution is the cheapest i had seen...

By the way look the battery i discovered... A deal i think 500 canadian dollars ...

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0BX8S2VJ5/?coliid=IKXADUV0BL4GC&colid=1BP2ARF9W3KAX&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

I own a Sansui alpha 607i i think the consumption is 380 watts 460 VA rated 720 watts maxinmum ...

What do you think ? I use a small battery dac .... I like it... Then only my amplifier will be on the Gisandel+ battery...

On your site you suggested a more powerful inverter 5,000 watts  than the one you suggested here, 2000 watts,  my question is : with my amplifier Sansui would i have enought hours of music  between battery charge ?

The 5000 watt Giandel Inverter ($900) does its job well fed by LifePo4 batteries.  If you are using digital amps then one $800 battery will give you sound for 8 hours straight without charging .

I am not an electrical engineer , i apologize for the simplistic question ...😊

Ric, is this the one you mean

https://www.amazon.com/GIANDEL-Inverter-Outlets-Controller-Emergency/dp/B092QS7NWJ

Yes, its cheaper if you buy it directly from Giandel (for now).  If you cannot figure out this inverter thing with research then just call me......I can walk you through it.  I will put more info on my site in a few days that will give more detail about the inverter and battery requirements. 

We have taken this thread way away from amps......but with good intention......so, any more amp info?

No more GaN amp info here, but I am eagerly awaiting your modded GAN 400 to be evaluated by yyzsantabarbara to see how close it got to his Coda 16 when using the LRS+.

@derekw_hawaii Sorry to inform you that I have not sent the amp in to Ric (yet). I am not sure if I will sell it so I may not mod it. Since I sold my amazing RAAL VM-1a this week I needed to figure out how to get both my RAAL phones and my LRS+ to work with the gear I have. One result of this finding lead me to buy the Sanders Sound System MagTech amp today as the replacement for the GAN400 with the LRS+.

I have been using the GAN400 with the RAAL phones the last couple of days and it is very good, but still has that slight hardness. I will use the GAN400 this way for a while. The KRELL Duo XD amps are better on the phones than the GAN400 but I have no money or space for the KRELL at the moment.

I am listening to Robbie Robertson’s debut album on the LRS+ and the GAN400 as I type this, and I have never heard this album sound so good. I used to listen to this album at least once a week for maybe a decade. The 2 best speakers I had in the past were the Thiel CS3.7 and Revel Salon 1, but this LRS+ is just killing both of those with this album. Incredible sound for $1000. The GAN400 is also responsible for this so do not let my comments indicate that the GAN400 is a bad amp.

Even though I have not modded the GAN400 I do not expect Ric to make it sound even close to the CODA #16. The PeachTree GAN1 is an entirely different animal and I like that whole modded GAN1 system almost as much as the #16. I say this as someone who had Ric mod the LSA Voyager 350 GAN amplifier. He made it sound much better. However, it was not as good overall as my CODA #8 with my Thiel CS3.7 (both now sold). The GAN400 is the same internally as the Voyager (per Ric), though sounds stronger on the bass region. If the KRELL Duo were not in the back of my mind, I would have already sent the GAN400 for mods.

The CODA #16 is incredible. One reason I had comfort in buying the Magtech today is because I believe CODA made that amp for Sanders. Roger Sanders helped me figure out how to best setup the RAAL phones and speakers with my remaining gear. Great customer service.

@yyzsantabarbara  thanks for the update and no worries. Coincidentally, Roger's Magtech also has my attention, though budget and heat is a concern. I look forward to your listening observations via a vis the amps you have and had in your stable, and am curious as to how much heat the Magtech generate.

@derekw_hawaii On TMR a Magtech came up for sale at $2800. I think it sold in minutes. I then contacted MagTech and discussed a few things with them. I bought a used Magtech from them for $4K. This amp was given a thorough update from MagTech.

There was an issue I was reading about for heat and the MagTech (on A’gon). It seems it was an issue with some part from Motorola. That was rectified in 2015 so I am expecting my unit to also have the updated part.

I get the amp on Tuesday. Send me a DM if you want to get my opinion. This is the GAN thread so I will not digress more on it.

So, you are an expert on damping? You spent hundreds of hours with various damping materials and used them everywhere and you know which damping materials are linear and which are not and where to use it and where not to use it?

🙄

We've had optional damping packages available for our products for decades. We have lots of feedback and experience with a variety of damping systems (footers, stands and platforms) as well as extensional and constrained layer damping materials. I've consulted with engineers at firms that make damping materials and damping equipment, some of whom are also customers. Any of them, looking at your post to which I responded earlier, would simply say you don't know what you're talking about.

Some gear is far more sensitive to vibration than others; I've yet to run into a situation where such equipment received too much damping. OTOH I've seen poor or incompetent attempts at damping that has exacerbated problems in the equipment. That is why the myth of 'overdamping' is around. The effect of good damping is easy to hear and  measure.

@ricevs "...I doubt it. I am not an expert....".

Interesting comment. And you just poked the bear. It’s a very smart bear too, who knows these woods well, better than most who travel these forests. LOL 😂

I recently received the Sanders Sound Systems Magtech amp. 500 @ 8 | 900 @ 4. I paid $4k used from Sanders. 

I will keep it short, the Magtech is much better on the Magnepan LRS+ than the PeachTree GAN400. The panels sound like a totally different speaker with the Magtech. I would even say the Magtech + LRS+ is even better than the CODA  #16 + LRS+. 

I was worried that the Class AB Magtech would be grainy. Not so at all, a great top end. The bass is the hardest hitter of the 3 amps mentioned. Just a shockingly good pairing.

I have my Peachtree GAN400 as a headphone amp now and it was not too bad. I have a $800 Schitt Class A Aegir amp coming today that will have to duke it out with the GAN400.

I got the $800 Schitt Aegir 20-watt Class A amp this afternoon. I am listening to it via my Benchmark LA4 preamp and Benchmark DAC3B. The GAN400 used to be in place of the Aegir. The amp is connected to the RAAL TI-1b interface box. I am using the RAAL SR1a phone into the TI-1b.

When I had the GAN400 in the path, I had a hum with 16 Ohm setting on the interface box using RCA inputs. The hum was was lowered wit the 32 Ohm setting (or maybe the other way around). When using XLR inputs into the TI-1b the hum went away, but I need to use RCA out from the LA4 since the XLR go to the MagTech amp & LRS+.

I had no hum issue with the Aegir and RCA. I have not tested XLR with the Aegir since I would need 2 Aegir’s to do that.

Cut to the chase. The sound difference between the GAN400 and the Aegir was rather big. The Aegir is warmer, just as detailed, juicer and much like the CODA #16 and the TI-1b. Incredible for $800.

The GAN400 is a flatter sound and while very good with the SR1a, it is not at the same level as the Aegir.

I need to decide if I am going to keep the GAN400. I do not like having extra gear around. If I sell it it will be for $1200.

For $4000 or less you can have a whole DAC/volume control/amp/speaker/wires system that will be in a whole nuther level way above a stock inexpensive magneplanar driven by very good DAC and Preamp and amp.

Minidsp Flex $500, Fossi amp for bass $100, Aegir for highs $800, 4 12 inch Beyma 12BR70 woofs $700, 8 Parts Express Planar 8 inch drivers $500, wood $300, cables $1000. You could just use 2 planars and spend less.

Open baffle about 5 feet high and 16 inches wide (way less high if only using one planar).....at least doubled up three quarter inch birch ply.

The Minidsp does the xover, the DACing, the volume control (remote control with presets) and even has an analog input to add tuner, phono stage or whatever.

With fully equalized and time aligned open baffle woofers and planars (crossed over around 400hz). the sound would blow your mind. The two woofers run in parallel would be around 95db sensitive and the four planars in series parallel would be the same.....easy to drive.....will play 110db......ROCK OUT!

Why would anyone want a veiled Magnepan that needs a $4000 amp to drive it properly? Yes, it is smaller......but if you really wanted small you could mount two Purifi woofs in a slim box and put the planar on an open baffle above....still worlds better than a magnepan.

Of course, you could do the above with a Minidsp Flex (digital version).....and use two modified GaN based digital amps (GaN 1 or VTV D300). This would be more costly.

I totally get that most do not want to build anything......just want plug and play. But this is sooooooooooo simple. You could have a local woodworker make the baffles and stands really quickly.......finish them anyway you like. If you went blind into a room at a show and someone played this system.....you would guess it would be $100K or more........Of course, you could take an ET 8b speaker and tweak it to the hilt and get rid of its woofer and add an open baffle next to it with two 12s that was separately amped and eqed and probably get even better sound (better planars). But this is cheaper and easier to do and the planars are much more efficient.

The latest Minidsp units are really great......for those measurement people, here is a review on ASR

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/minidsp-flex-review-audio-dsp.30804/

There is fairly good discussion on Audiophile style, top contenders mentioned 

were Boxem and Apollon. Besides build quality, input circuit design was mentioned

as critical