Nice write up! I'm looking to upgrade my power conditioner and the TOT series seems to be what I'm looking for as I want the least coloration of sound possible. I've long heard of Torus and may be time to get one in for an audition.
Torus vs AudioQuest Niagara
After home-demoing an AudioQuest Niagara 5000, I decided there were a few shortcomings that were nagging me and I went with a Torus RM20 instead, without any demo. I’m glad I did. I went that way because the thing I kept hearing about the Torus is that it doesn’t alter the sound, and rather, it just allows your system to be more revealing.
The first issue with the Niagara 5000 was the buzzing of the transformers. When the house is silent, you can clearly hear this buzzing 9ft away from my couch. With the music off of course. I wanted to consider the Niagara 7000 but I’ve heard that if you encounter buzzing with the 5000, the 7000 will be worse. As an aside, the manual even acknowledges the buzzing issue and notes that there may be no solution to it. To be clear, while the buzzing was audible from my listening position, it was quiet. But noticeable.
The second issue I had with the Niagara is that I felt that the high frequencies were closed in and constrained. Compared to my system plugged into the wall directly when the power is cleaner, very late at night.
In contrast the Torus RM20 was extremely natural. I didn’t detect it doing anything to alter the sonic presentation, other than unveil the sound to be more revealing, more solid, more immediate, and more 3D.
I think some may prefer the Niagara. There is more of a sense of each instrument and the vocals floating in a space of inky blackness. More so than with the Torus. But to me the Niagara sound was more impressively “HiFi” (not a good thing for me but maybe a good thing for some), wheras the Torus was more naturally musical with added solidity, clarity and soundstage depth to the sound. But the thing that kills the Niagara in my opinion is that the upper frequencies are more closed in than with the Torus. I have a specific track that starts with a high-hat where you can clearly hear the added texture with the Torus.
Of note: the AudioQuest provides isolation between your system components whereas the Torus does not. In my case, it doesn’t seem to matter, the Torus still clearly wins. I have my Gryphon Diablo 300 amp with the DAC module, an Ethernet isolation switch, a Streamer, and a USB Reclocker all powered by the Torus.
I’ve been told by Nordost that all conditioners change the tonal balance of your system and that it’s impossible to tell how that change will manifest because it’s different for each system. I’ve also been told by industry veterans to stay away from filtering of all sorts because you can’t help but alter your sound in unexpected ways. This advice has rang true with my experiments. The Torus in comparison (which Nordost also suggested I look at) is just a massive transformer, and not a filter or conditioner in the traditional sense.
If my understanding is correct, Plitron, the transformer mfr, started Torus and they also supply AudioQuest with transformers for the Niagara.
One other note regarding the Niagara - there is a hardness to the bass (with power correction engaged) that created a noticeable grip and a drive to the music. At first I liked this effect, but then I realized it was a tad over-emphasized.
I’ve also read that conditioners are totally system dependent, so my results may be drastically different for someone else.
I have a Gryphon Diablo 300, Nordost Valhalla 2 speaker wire, all AQ Hurricane power cords and two AQ Dragon high currents feeding my amp and also the Torus. Innuos Zenith MKIII Roon/Tidal streamer, Innuos PhoenixNET (Ethernet isolation switch) and PhoenixUSB (reclocker). AudioQuest Diamond USB and Ethernet cables.
If the Torus cost the same as a Niagara 5000 I’d still go with the Torus, no question. I’d even pay more for the Torus! But the fact is the RM20 is significantly cheaper than the Niagara 5000. It’s been around a long time and it works, well. And there is no buzzing from the unit whatsoever!
I feel like with AudioQuest’s marketing, Torus probably gets overlooked. But as an alternative to “filtering” and “conditioning”, at least in my system, Torus gives me exactly what I am after when it comes to powering my system, and nothing more is added that I don’t want.
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I don’t doubt that conditioners can achieve the lowest noise floor. But at least to my ears in my system, with the Niagara 5000, that comes at a cost of free-flowing natural sound, and and also constrained/closed in high frequencies (which may be welcome if you are trying to tame a bright or harsh system?). Torus just told me their customers report that the RM20 sounds best after 100-200 hours, so that’s even more good news. Nordost not only slammed conditioners in general in my inquiry to them, but also regenerators. Their only exception was Torus which again is neither a conditioner nor a regenerator, but rather a beefy isolation transformer which is simple and it works. Regarding demos, the RM20 weighs almost 90 pounds so just a warning!
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It is just nutty how audio simultaneously has (1) an obsession with "lowering the noise floor" (often inaudible already), and (2) a raft of products that buzz or hum. I also am happy with the RM-20. It is dead silent, and I trust it to protect my gear from problems on the line. My back has recovered from the last time I moved it. Teflon sliders highly recommended.
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To me the surge protection of the RM20 is a bonus but not something I’ve ever been concerned about, as I can’t recall any incident where I’ve damaged a device due to a surge. For me the RM20 was 100% on improving sound quality in the face of higher AC line noise that is apparent in my system every day, aside from after midnight. As I said above, the RM20 does everything I hoped it would, and most importantly, nothing more. I do wonder if the improvement with the RM20 would be noticed in a less revealing system. It wasn’t until I added the Valhalla 2 speaker wires that I first became aware of how much better my system was after midnight when AC line noise is quieter. Before that I suppose my speaker wire was bottlenecking my system performance and so I was blissfully unaware of issues with dirty power. But the RM20 totally addresses that issue and my system sounds great day and night. My one and only complaint (and the family’s too) is that the blue led in the power switch is absurdly bright. I’ll be looking for something suitable to cover and dim it. After hearing that it is a “transformer” the family is also debating whether its name is Megatron or Optimus Prime. IMO the latter is more suited to audiophile gear! |
@nyev - Re noise: Yes. It filters nicely. I find the sound of my hi-fi is more consistent from time to time, which I suspect is due to just that. Re: too bright LED. Yes again. I used this from Amazon: LIGHT DIMS Black Out Edition - Light Blocking LED Covers Routers, Electronics and Appliances and More. Blocks 100% of Light, in Retail Packaging. One of the rectangular pieces covers most of the switch, and the remaining light is more than enough.
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@mike_in_nc , thanks for the tip on the LED blocker! What were they thinking selecting a light with that brightness…. Minor and solvable detail though. |
I’ve got an Audience AR-6 power conditioner and It’s been great. No noise at all. Everything was plugged into it and then I was told that it might reduce the highs or muddy the sound if the amp was plugged into it, so I have tried plugging my amp into it and plugging my amp into the wall and I can’t hear a difference. All the best. JD |
If you haven't noticed already, the same maker also has dots that are not completely opaque, but just dim light transmission. I use those for other things (my digital alarm clock, e.g.). But the Torus's LED is so bright I use the opaque one for that. |
I own the Niagara 7000 and the only time I had any type of buzz, I found it was due to using the PPT paste on the wire connection in the breaker box. Evidently it caused some aching. The wire actually looked like it was burned. Once I removed the paste and stripped a fresh clean connection, I have NOT had any type of buzzing. I guess if you do hear buzzing consider it a positive because something is wrong. ozzy |
I considered a Torus but was lead to a PS Audio P12. For me, it was a question of replacing my quite excellent Shunyata Triton/Typhon ($18K). I discovered that I could get the benefits of the P12 and the Shunyatas. by plugging in the P12 to the T/Ts and then into a dedicated AC line in the wall using an Audioquest Hurricane between the two units. This would suggest that keeping the Torus and 5000 both in line would be best. |
You always get that sense of closing in and loss of dynamics with power conditioners, but you do hear gains in other areas. The negative effects are not really apparent until you switch the conditioner out.
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Having owned both I wound up with the PS Audio AC-12 for my front gear. Does what it claims it does, natural, best mico detail, lowest of them all noise floor thus details, vocals to die for. Just keep the setting simple, sinewave setting, high regulation and set the voltage at 120 and it will stay there morning, noon and night, That is a huge benefit for your gear and consistent sound quality. Good design. |
I have the Wilson Sasha DAW for sale shown on the top of this page, I use the Bryston BIT 20 (same as the Torus) in that system for my DCS and D’Agostino gear (save for the amp) and love it. I have had so many Shunyata units in the past, sometimes with success, sometimes without...but the BIT 20 is the best. My final test was plugging my projector into it, I thought nothing could out-do the Shunyata...I was wrong, really wrong!! Torus also made the transformers for Levinson, Krell, and Pass Labs. |
I also own the Bryston version, the Bit 20. Everything but my big mono amps and my digital transport are plugged in. For some unknown reason, the DAC likes to be plugged into the Bit 20 but the transports I've used don't. I plug the transport into the same Synergistic Research blue duplex as the Bryston. I've had my Bryston for 7 years now. |
Just wanted to follow up on this. After installing dedicated lines, I borrowed the Niagara 5000 one more time to compare with my Torus RM20. Here is what I found: -The Niagara 5000 still buzzes quite loudly, while the Torus is dead silent. -Both devices very slightly soften the highest frequencies compared with plugging everything direct to wall. But, these frequencies with the Torus are much better defined and detailed. -The Niagara has a slight boost in bass definition and adds a “calmness” to the bass that the Torus doesn’t. -The Niagara also has a very, very slight boost in the upper mids. This to me is a showstopper as after a while, some tracks don’t sound right to me. I’m very sensitive to slight tonal changes. -In comparison the Torus also lifted the mid frequencies, compared with having everything plugged into the wall. But, with the Torus everything was lifted perfectly evenly, and I suspect is actually more tonally accurate than having things connected direct to the wall, where the mids are more recessed and muddier. Torus is the clear overall winner for tonal accuracy and overall evenness. It is also dead silent. Niagara has a slight win when it comes to bass, with a calmer presentation of bass. The Torus adds great bass clarity and definition, but the Niagara has this relaxed, confident, and solid presentation of bass that is actually really nice. But overall the Torus is more evenhanded and adds clean, clear sound equally for all frequencies. For this reason and it’s silent operation Torus is the clear winner.
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