Speaker jumpers

I had tried both on the LF speaker binding post with good bass, then both on the HF with good definition, with the Jumper installed approriate; but, connecting the red (+) on the bass LF, and the black on the High frequencies binding post, there are more sound stage, for me the best with my speakers.  You must try many connexions patern for your best result.

Really depends on the speaker. It's quality and interior wiring.
Have Vandy 3A Sig's and they sound better with Cardas jumpers than they do with either the factory jumpers or bi-wired per Richards instructions. The Cardas really made the top end and highs blossom and open up as if I had 50% more speaker.
Like some one posted earlier it's a trial and error crap shoot.

Chat with the cable manufacturer. They may be able to make a pair with longer tails on the amp end

I  would like to try biwire?Here is the problem.I have emo xpa 1 monos with the posts too far apart for most wires.A Agon post said he used two pair of banana plugs on each end of his speaker wire to make the connection.Is this a bad thing to do?would this negate any gains made by biwiring?I would like to try rocket 33 biwire cables but wouldn't want to cut them up to fit binding posts!

Get a 6 inch piece of Romex and use the copper ground wire, see how that works, costs pennies if you can't get one for free from someone.  If you don't like it, just biwire your speakers, that is usually best anyway.

Without question if you have Good equipment the cheap Zinc jumpers for sure will mask the perfermanceat least a few % points .i have replaced enough crossovers ,connectors and wires to know .think about this .the internal wire 
on a 802 B&W speaker is of good quality  a similar thing applies to audio fuses.
just look up metal  resistance index the Top is Silver,Copper a  very close 2nd.
these nickel zinc jumpers are around a 10 on the resistance index. The higher the number the less resistance.Copper wire a 65 
meaning Zinc has 6x the resistance a Horrible conductor and like a steel fuse a Huge bottleneck. If you system is very resolving ,run them both in 50 hours 
then critically listen to 10 songs on each give at least 1/2 hr  after exchanging 
jumpers.  The facts speak for themselves.  The resistance speaks volumes,
as well as like wire used.
the companies figure you will use either by wire, or your own jumper.
recently Silnote made me 2 or of Excellent jumpers for $200
that easily gave much better detail especially upper midrange on up 
on my Sonus Faber Olympica-3 Loudspeakers. 
The stock straps work ,but give the custom Wire jumpers made of the same speaker wire  and resistance,capacitance,inductance are  very similar.
One more thing if you want your system to sound its best 
Stabilant-22  with 4-1 alcohol  which evaporates quickly. ,or 22 in uncut  version is by far the best contact enhancer that last 
for years not months ,just look it up ,all the most critical applications use this 
including NASA.  First clean all contacts with 99% Isopropyl alcohol.
order on amazon with applicators power cords are the worst  once treated 
protected give 24 hours  to hear max performance. Do every contact area 
on power cord blades even ground. Any contact area on equipment ,tube pins 
fuse contacts.Everything counts  !!

My system now is 2 xpa1 monos,Onkyo 886 processor,king cobra xlrs,type 4 wires,until rocket 44 s come in,B&W 805 Diamonds,Goldenear xxl sub,AQ Irish red sub cable,Marantz CD player.I know 886 processor isn't the best choice,but I still like it.

Yes,it is fun trying different things to see what works!I just used a left over AQ sub 3 cable on a p.o.s. subwoofer I have in a garage system,was a big upgrade!The sub almost sounds respectable!(almost)!

@fsilahua - it's funny, I wondered about all those parts in my modest system, spent some time and a small amount of money to DIY upgrade them, and was rewarded with a significant improvement in sound.

It is pure folly to stress about whether or not your system and its parts are good enough. That way ends in a neurotic vortex of anxiety.

But a healthy curiosity and a desire to experiment can be incredibly fun and improve your system to boot. That said, just because some of us like messing about doesn't mean that you can't just enjoy your music reproduction system as it stands. Just decide what you 'want' from this hobby and gravitate towards those that share your values. It doesn't mean anyone is right or wrong, it's just that this is supposed to be fun, so if there's an aspect you're interested in, chat with those who have explored that area and take all the naysayers with a grain of salt. Many if them haven't even experimented with what they are knocking down.

Mirror, mirror on the wall...

Hi,
Save yourself money and time, and enjoy your speakers. I own a pair of modest B&W speakers and their components quality is very good. Otherwise you can also question the connectors, the speaker cables, the preamp to amp cables, wall connectors, and so on, all the way to the transmission lines from the power generation plant. Invest on the basic components that speakers, amp, and reproduction sources.
Cheers

I am using Audioquest Gibraltar single bi-wire on my B&W 805 d2. It sounds fantastic. On the other hand,  B&W 805 d2 needs a powerful power amp to drive it.  I use Mark Levinson ML 11 (50 W) to drive the speakers. ML 11 is a high current amp. The result is more than satisfaction.

This may sound crazy, but several months ago I was able to obtain a mint pair of Martin/LoganSL-3 speakers, but without jumper cables.  By chanch I had a one foot pair of 6-7 foot paif of the top of the line Shunyata speaker wires, which I have been using as teir jumper wires.  Anyway they work superbly.  It does not hurt that I am using an Audioquest Niagara 1000 strip, along with three quality Audioquest power cords as well forthe SL-3's.  Needless to say but they sound simply increadible.  From the very top to the bottom base it sounds like one seamless audio experience.  

Mine are made with the same wire that's in Ultra MM2

I'd also like to add that I'm a true believer in Transparent Audio cable and have been for years. I'm currentl'y using TA Reference MM2 speaker cable, along with TA Ultra MM2 interconnects, and TA Powerlink MM2 ac cable. The jumpers were disappointing IMHO.

The typical plates we've all seen and used. I'm not sure of the metals used but I doubt they are anything special.
To my ears I get better imaging with the SF jumpers. Not a significant difference, but measurable.
BTW, I was using the best jumpers TA offered. (There are two different models and I believe they are called the Performance and the Premium)

On my 805's and 803's I was happy with the stock jumpers and very inexpensive cabling throughout until my mocking "audiophile" friend loaned me some Nordost speaker cables. Different, not necessarily better, but certainly different. So now I have several thousand dollars of Nordost cabling everywhere, and the results.... different, I'm unsure if necessarily better.  
Now I ask folks what kind of cabling they own before I ask them over, and please, no offers to loan me magical power cords, interconnects, or whatever.  My clarity on better and different is a sliding resource and it's better for me to know that than going to the bank.

I very much like my Transparent Ultra jumpers 

What type of jumpers does Sonus Faber provide ?

I just went through this about two weeks ago. I have a pair of Sonus Faber Amati Futura's and just tried Transparent Audio's jumpers and to my ears they were worse. I'm sticking with the ones from Sonus Faber.

Almost all stock jumpers are brass. All inexpensive audio equipment wiring, connectors and inputs are brass. Which is a main reason why they are inexpensive and sound like crap. You should at least upgrade to copper jumpers. And even a *single* strand of minimally thick 99% copper wire will improve the sound and clean current flow 100 fold. A single strand!

Replacing stock jumpers make a significant improvement. Best to use same wire as main speaker wire if possible but many companies make quality jumpers ie nordost. There is also a belief that rather than running a bi wire set run a quality main set and the jumpers to the other set of speaker terminals- nordost now believes this provides better sound. I was running a bi wire set to my b&w 800d and are now running nordost Valhalla single run with Valhalla jumpers to the other terminal set. The stock jumpers provided with many speakers are junk.

replacing speaker jumpers improved the sound on both of my sound systems. i agree some stock jumpers are better than others, but most speakers can be further improved with better aftermarket cabling- the trick is to find the right ones for your speakers. if unable to sample a few different ones to experiment, try using the same cable as your main speaker cable.
like most forums, ask 10 different people, and you'll get 10 different answers- dont expect any solutions, just more questions to ponder... :) 

Also used Spendor and Duetta Sigs.

I tried all kinds on my Gamut and ended with silver solid but the movers lost them. Could not find the same ones again so now am using some VDH. It does make a difference. Rewired the internal cable once and and it did make a difference but the Gamut comes with good internal wiring. OCD a little but who cares?

Yes,I did consider bi wire,but got the chance to order a new pair of AQ rocket 44 regular cables for almost free!(Using AQ type 4 now).Going to see how new cables sound when I get them and go from there.I appreciate all the responses!I am getting good sound now,don't get me wrong, but I can never seem to leave well enough alone!

max997,
I couldn't agree with you more! With all this "jumping" around I'm getting dizzy! Bi-wire is the best solution! IMHO....

Have you considered removing the stock jumpers completely and upgrading to biwire speaker cables?

I always use biwire with speakers that offer that option as they are going to perform better than the jumpers that come with any of my speakers.

This is getting to be like a broken record.

One side offers empirical evidence and it's met with insults, derision and mockery, and when called out on it, claim 1st amendment rights to their "opinion". Talk about weak tea.

All the best,
Nonoise

jl, yup.

This begins to read like any of the other cable conundrum columns that roil on and teeter into personal jabs and trolling.  They look like soccer scrums, a lot of energy expended with the crowd divided over who will prevail.

Funny for awhile, dissipating into boredom over the SOS.

'Scuse me, but....*Yawn* 

the best part is that it is easy to try the different ways, and then do what sounds best to you...

Creation "scientists" can explain everything...

Just look at the idiocy above

And if scientists really knew that ..........

If only science could explain everything...

You can always use audioquest silver links.  it is 16awg solid core wire and it provides good contact area in the binding post. $25.   I do not believe a second that upgrading such a short connection (minuscule resitance) can make a difference, but I hate to say it... i feel like they did compared to 16awg copper wires...

You could bi-wire and eliminate the jumpers. I use Magnan now. I have used SR, Kimber, and Stealth with positive results

At the least I would use the same cables as your speaker cables, just buy an extra length or cut some off the ends of your current cables. Anything fancier doesn't seem like it would offer a benefit. I did notice an improvement when I replaced my flat gold plated brass jumpers with short lengths of speaker cable.

It all depends on what is there now, really. And what you plan on replacing it with.

Not only do some speaker companies give their customers poor jumpers, but also some manufacturers of integrated amps include poor jumpers. There are not many easier and affordable upgrades to equipment than replacement of jumpers. 

Just as itzhak1969 relates, the results are so profound that it surprises people. Congratulations to those who have tried and found a simple, but effective way to improve the system. 

At the risk of voiding the warranty, take a peek inside.

Duplicate the internal wiring.

Other than that, I'll vote with jl35; match your speaker lines.

Any other 'esoteria'....well, it's your $.  Do what you want. *shrug*  MHO.

It's not simply cost containment, but that depending on speaker cables used the choice of preferred jumpers can be quite variable 

Not speculation 

maybe you can explain what is wrong with steel

also, the notion that engineers are overruled by cost containment of the manufacturers for expensive speakers is just speculation

you can always do your own blind testing of course... or spend time & money on something that really matters (speakers, room, best source recordings)

My own experience: 

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/bi-wires-links-for-speakers

My guess is the engineers weren't the ones who selected or designed that internal wire...

Just to add to the internal wiring response,I had a pair of def tech some time ago.The sub went out and had to open it up to replace.I couldn't believe how cheap the wires were inside of that speaker.I was trying to use decent speaker wire,only to fine super thin wire inside!Hope my B&Ws have better wire than that inside!

often the same for power cords too, they figure you will use a different one anyway, so why pay to include a real good one...