For music, I think Vandersteen makes the best sub.
Need Help with Subwoofer Choice
Hi, all. I purchased a Rythmik L12 subwoofer earlier this month. I use it for a music only 2 channel set up. Typically, volume is at 1:00, phase delay is at zero, and crossover is at 50-55Hz. I have not run this unit hard at all. The L12 had worked fine until it failed tonight. All of a sudden, hardly any sound came out of it, and I only was able get a bit of sound if I turned both the cross-over and volume up, which is not my preference. I am returning it as I'm within the 45 day audition period.
So, now, I'm looking for another sub for my 9x10x8 room which is treated with corner traps, bass traps, etc., from GIK. I don't feel comfortable purchasing another sub from Rythmik, and I wonder whether subs from other manufacturers who build them in the Far East consist primarily of really cheap components. JL Audio would be great (USA made), but they are very expensive. I think a 12" sub would be a minimum size, but I'm open to suggestions. Your help and advice would be very much appreciated. Thanks.
So, now, I'm looking for another sub for my 9x10x8 room which is treated with corner traps, bass traps, etc., from GIK. I don't feel comfortable purchasing another sub from Rythmik, and I wonder whether subs from other manufacturers who build them in the Far East consist primarily of really cheap components. JL Audio would be great (USA made), but they are very expensive. I think a 12" sub would be a minimum size, but I'm open to suggestions. Your help and advice would be very much appreciated. Thanks.
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That's more of a HT sub. If you don't get the right sub, it can make your system sound worse. Here's a link to some extremely good info on subs and how to set them up. http://vandersteen.com/media/files/APJ%20Files/APJ_2_rl.pdf |
I use 2 RELs, a Q150e (10"driver) and a Q108 MK II (8"), both bought used for around 200 bucks each, and they're extremely "musical" and really well built…highly recommended (by many). I had the Q150e first for a few years and it worked fine by itself, but couldn't pass up a clean 108 I found last year and with both of 'em it's even better. |
For value/quality: Hsu For ease of installation: JL. As I've said before, the biggest audible difference in subs comes from the quality of the DSP/tuning and I think JL has one of the best right now. Hsu has only basic controls, which is fine for me, since I use an outboard DSP but harder for most music lovers to do right. Best, Erik |
rlb61 I’ve owned the SB12 years ago ( $650 ). I don’t think at $399 you would go wrong with it. It has a five year warranty with SVS. If you have a tight budget you should go for it! |
My beloved wife says I should get the JL Audio E110, which is the higher level model with a 1200 watt amp for $1,500. She says I never buy anything for myself and that I should enjoy my system. I love her, but I don’t know if I can bring myself to spend that much on a sub ... although it would be nice. |
After owning a Martin Logan Depth I(years ago), SVS SB13, SVS PB2000, and most recently an SVS SB16 Ultra I returned to a JL Audio F110v2. I will add a second F110v2, but even one has added to my musical enjoyment. My room is 20’x26’. I find JL Audio to be the most musical sub in my room, for my taste. |
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" @Mb1audio02 ... don't you have to use a separate xover with the Vandersteen?" Not exactly. They give you a temporary xover with the sub that you use to set it up. Once you determine the correct values, Vandersteen gives you permanent ones. But it's not a separate box type xover. Its the in line type. Think of it as part of the cable and not a separate piece. Also, there's nothing wrong with any of the other subs mentioned, but if you are putting together a system for music only, the Vandersteen sub is in a different league. I know it costs more than some of the others, but its the last sub most people ever need. Its not common to find them used. I've had several Velodine, JL, Sunfire, M&K, Mirage, B&W, REL and a few more that I'm probably forgetting. The Vandersteen is in a different league. I have had subs that I think were as good or better (Genesis, Kinergentics, Unity), but the cheapest was several times more than the Vandersteen, and 2 of the 3 were not powered. If you can't go that high, the REL's that Wolf recommends would definately be my 2nd choice. |
UPDATE: Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. The Rythmik is being returned and, in its place, I've ordered the JL Audio e110. FWIW, the folks at Rythmik so far have been accommodating with the return process. I will keep you posted. The e110 should be here next week. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it will have been an excellent choice. |
Rel rythmik m&k MJ acoustics JL, the same makes always come up, all of those make great sounding musical subs. Im going beyond a usual sub and constructing two 8" folded horn with hypex modules, I will more often then not go for sealed subs, with and without PR, not this time. two Dayton 8" to keep them small, or at least smaller, even with 8s they will eat a fair bit of precious real estate in a not so large room. |
Without a "room correction EQ" system (or maybe even with one, not sure since I don’t use or seem to need EQ in my hifi rig) you might have to adjust the sub level from time to time as recorded bass levels can vary. Necessary level adjustments generally aren’t that drastic with the RELs I use so it’s not needed too often, and your ears should be the only tool you need to make it right (it’s your personal taste in play here after all). |
