I'm pretty excited about my new room i'm building


I am fortunate enough to be getting kicked out of my dedicated audio space 12’x16’x9’ to make space for the kids to have separate rooms .I am remodeling a stand alone building on my property.The dimensions are 16’x24’x9’ with 10"thick cement floor.I am open to either treating and painting the floor or a floating pergo style floor ( no carpet ) with floor rugs .the walls are drywalled 2x6 construction insulated with redwood board and batten exterior, above the ceiling is insulation with open attic area(which I could add more insulation). As a few of you know I am fully off grid and generate my own power thru solar and gen backup into large battery banks then inverted to my house etc.The only furniture per say will be three reclining chairs etc .I will transfer a lot of my treatment panels and add more as needed. Also I will be trying to set up a humidity and temp control for this room when not in it, I was thinking 60deg 60% humidity .thoughts?
Any tips or thoughts are appreciated .
Thank Ray

I still will have my home theatre setup which is pretty nice in the house also so i’m stoked .
128x128oleschool
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audio2design
I do not it get almost a80 deg at times so sometimes I bring a portable box but I have probably five systems lol .Oh and a nice hot tub out back stop by 
fleschler
classic California ,I am on ranch land in Mendocino County up north .we still have a k permit which is great .long story .
@baylinor   That's the idea I had (a new structure) when I purchased my home but I knew the law restricted me to garage(s) conversion.  So I built a new structure within a structure.
Thank you @oleschool. When I purchased my home two years ago, I intended to build a 20’ X 25’ X 14’ high dedicated listening room attached to my home by a breezeway on my large lot. However, the City of Los Angeles changed the law on building to site coverage on RA residential/agricultural zoned lots (about 35% of the City) where only large homes are constructed on 3/17/17. This so called anti-mansionization law limited development to 25% of my lot area (20% if it had been 20,000’+). It defeated the purpose of the law by permitting 50% lot area development on 7.500’ lots and smaller and 45% for larger R1 (typical smaller than RA) residential lots. One can still build a 4,500’ multi-story home next to a 70 year old 1,200’ home; hence, defeating the purpose to prevent mansions overlooking small homes. My RA subdivision homes are 4,700’ to 8,000’ on 18,500’ lots. We can’t add a foot to our homes or use attics (mine’s a partially finished 2,500’ at 10’ to 18’ high) except for dead storage. So I ended up taking out 2 of my 4 garages.

It’s not so bad since my listening room is fabulous sonically.
Sounds wonderful oleschool. My wife loves the sauna. I am more a hot tub person myself.  Do you have a system in there?

We used to have a cedar log home. We miss it, though this time I think we would go pine for the thickness.
oleschool OP710 posts12-25-2020 9:26pmok I will ,My sauna is a freestanding building all cedar holds 12 friendly people .Harvia wood stove with rocks I do hot or cold . Did one 2o minutes ago lol. my house is timberframe with 8" solis log walls

This is how I had my custom listening room built into a double garage.  It measures 15'8" X 19'8" X 10' high interior.  The exterior walls are 16" thick and the 2 doors are 17" thick.  No windows or other openings.  Built in bass traps (very effective). 

3 ½” – 9 ½” concrete floor (existing)

Poured steel reinforced to 6+” to 12+” 3000 lb. PSI concrete floor

Walls-

1” MDF

1/8” thick Acoustiblok vinyl sound barrier

¾” MDF

3 x 12 vertical studs, 14.5” on center

Staggered 13” wide 2 x 12 and 4 x 12 per vertical stud channel

13” X 4” X 48” 72lb. 4 chamber activated charcoal absorption filters staggered vertically up/down/up/down

4” Rockwool insulation over vacant stud channel area adjacent to filters

¾” cherry plywood

Ceiling

4’ Sound Absorption Blankets

4” Rockwool

2 x 8 horizontal beams (existing)

5/8” X drywall paneling (existing)

1/8” thick Acoustiblok vinyl sound barrier

¾” cherry plywood

Recessed 9 BR 40 65 Watt LED floodlights

2 Ton HVAC split system, low speed, high volume

70+ oz. plush cut pile carpeting

Subpanel with 8 dedicated circuits of 20 amps each per duplex in the listening room isolated from the lighting and HVAC servicing the room which goes to another subpanel.


@ OP
For whatever it's worth, check out my house of stereo system. Also a stand alone room with similar dimension. You may found some info to your liking. Have fun with the process.
Mine is  Western Red Cedar. Trouble with Eastern Cedar the knots seep sap and it will burn you. I have 2 benches, I should have built 3. Wow 12 people! I'm trying to think if I even know 12 people! LOL!  I do 20 min a day, and sometimes go back in after a cold plunge. I was going to go 8'' log walls for the house but it was a lot more money. I have square logs 6" thick. Health benefits of sauna are off the charts. Let me know your download speed with Viasat. Take care...
ok I will ,My sauna is a freestanding building all cedar holds 12 friendly people .Harvia wood stove with rocks I do hot or cold . Did one 2o minutes ago lol. my house is timberframe with 8" solis log walls 
That's pretty ironic Ray, not everyone has a sauna. Both you and I do! First project after building my log home was a 8'x12' sauna on the back deck. Been using it almost everyday for over 20 years. On my 2nd heater, Swedish made Tylo. BTW, for a speed test on Viasat, just search speedtest.net and hit go. It will tell you your download, ping, and upload. use Ookla, just hit go and it will give you the numbers. Take care..
vegasears
Its a free standing building hundred and hundreds of ft from my house and far from a neighbor (acres).I will post updates it will take awhile bit its happening .
its a free standing biking in Northern California ,my father in law had it poured .He did thick pads on all the outbuildings.There is a 6" on my outdoor sauna. it does get chilly here its 20 deg at 10pm tonight . wish it had sub floor heating .Building inspectors terrify us in this area lol
Congratulations,  Dedicated rooms are the ultimate tweak. Wondering what the reasoning was behind the 10" concrete slab.  The tread was a fun read, I'm a retired Building Inspector and I've avoided construction since that door closed.
Ray, I'm also on Viasat and DTV. Viasat oversell their systems capacity. Been with them since Wild blue days! Only options Hughsnet or Viasat. What kind of downloads speeds can you get? That has been an adventure of its own! The price we pay for seclusion.
Before you coat/seal/paint etc...the floor, go on this company's web site "Sani-tred". I don't sell it or work for them....just an amazingly satisfied customer. Product was applied over 10 yrs ago. PM me if you want to know specifics of my experience. I also loved building  a dedicated listening space (unrelated to the Sani-tred project). Enjoy this journey! Also helping a friend with planning his own dedicated space. So many decisions! All fun. As Maxwell said, "Pure Adrenaline."

jakesnak
viastat sat., its my only option other then Hughes net .Its the main reason I have hesitated to start tidal etc.I have direct tv sat .and sat phone through viastat
I have there top plan with going commercial its not great 
noromance 
Im in very rural California redwoods ,visitors are no an everyday occurrence ,so my pool ,dart and pingpong skills will be good lol

georgehifi
the audio room is 200' from main house ,my shop will be about 400' lol I have a few lifts 

I’ve a pool table and it’s great way to enjoy the music and unwind without having to "listen."
I agree on the pool table ,I had a 916 for awhile also. ..
Or the perfect 1 bike workshop, with compact lift rack? The perfect audio room/workshop, when your in the dog house with the missus.

Cheers George
Just curious Ray, what do you do for internet? I have satellite. That's my only option, so deep in the woods cell phone is not very good. I have to keep a land line, AT&T won't run fiber. John


georgehifi
I agree on the pool table ,I don't want this thread to go towards bikes although I have built many .I had a 916 for awhile also. ..

jakesnak
Thanks, im two miles from a power pole lol. I am seeing a trend to adapt dc. power to drive electronic lately.I have a lot of control over to power generated here As for the acid If I go this route it will be prepped thoroughly .They also have an etching product to apply first .
Oleschool, I did look at the acid product your going to use. When it comes out right you can obtain some very cool results. First time I saw it was in a bar and it really looked cool. You want to have variances in the colors to give it that patina look. I chose a rust color and it did not come exactly as I wanted. A lot depends on the porousness and finish of the slab. If memory serves me, length of time with the product on the surface helps in obtaining that patina look I was mentioning. I also think muriatic acid can be used within the application? I also used a stiff brush to work the product in attempt to get that off set in color. It has to be sealed after completing. That really brings the floor to life. Because its not a commercial building a good sealer should last you a while. I used a water based sealer, I'm sure they must have oil base as well? With Cali. that's likely an issue?
Several epoxy products out there. Its a 2 part application, and don't know if its a first time DIY project? Once its down it's easy to maintain. I've seen it dusted with flakes to give it texture and a certain look. However its a solid not transparent look.
I'm jealous of your of the grid power approach. I'm on 40 acres surrounded by 300. I use a water stove. Essentially a boiler, with pipes underground that pump through a heat exchanger. Its about 100' from the house. Heats the house and hot water. I use it year round. Lots of cutting and splitting  of wood. Emerald ash borer are killing all the ash trees so that's what I've been harvesting here in NC. It migrated down from Canada. If I were to do it again I would take your approach. I have a stream behind the house and I get sun all day. Too far along in the game now for me, but I tip my hat to you with your off the grid living! I Couldn't imagine living any other way. Good luck...
oleschool OP bike guy all my life
Did someone mention bike/s!!!!!!!!!
This was just one I restored and sold off 10 years ago.
https://forum.audiogon.com/posts/2071431
BTW pool table sounds great!!!!!!!!

You always know when it’s a Ducati coming down the road with it’s Conti pipes (nothing else sounds like them) 750 Honda Firestorm with pipes came close.
It’s said Fabio Taglioni (I bow my head) the man who made Ducati and the 90’ inline V-twin, labour for months over what he wanted it to sound like.
A it came to him that very human spent 9 months hearing/feeling his/her mothers heart beat, and that was the firing order he mimicked. It’s in the old coffee table book the History of Ducati
https://www.motorcyclealliance.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/bike-1.jpg

Cheers George
I also want to thank everyone for there responses ,I wish I had an unlimited budget . But I am constantly rebuilding and working on my ranch and am breaking ground on a 3500 sq ft workspace for hotrod and motorcycle  fabrication .
pokey77
Of course I will employ this method until I find where I need to be . I had a huge improvement in sound and bass in my small room with adding panels. It took the bass from boomy to much tighter and the bright reflections mellowed immensely . I have a home theatre I never post about here , it s in a large space with vaulted ceiling and has huge slap echo .I can incorporate any remains panels and diffusors there it needs quite a but .I will also use large rugs etc to help the situation ,as I stated I am very interested in making it good not great .I cannot fathom not putting my art I have collected on the walls of my man cave audio room .THose days are behind me chasing the ultimate sound ,its hyper addictive and the diminishing returns a 10 fold often . I want a good listening space comfortable for three and maybe a game or two of English darts maybe some pool when not just zoned in .Its a difficult balance ,when I was in my 20s I had a impressive 14x18 arched type roof listening room with two chairs and 2x2 .I have vered away from that world after a lifetime of playing guitar etc. I will certainly play some music in this room too but mostly acoustic or a small tube amp with my electric 
@oleschool

I have one thing you should consider and it was brought to light in at least one post to this thread. Room treatment. Yes, it is important. But, I'd recommend that you just finish the flooring, walls, ceiling, lighting, etc. Then leave it empty besides your gear and listening position, then once you get used to the sound, implement treatment slowly. I have done this over the last several years and all I needed to do was corner bass traps and it sounds excellent. I put a low/medium carpet on the floor and no wall decorations of any type. It sounds amazing. I know each room will sound different, but what you don't want to do is go to far right off and over damp the room. That'll take the snap and sparkle right out of the music and make it sound dead. Also, note that if you choose some type of wood flooring or just seal/finish the concrete floor, it will be very reflective and maybe too lively. I know one person that had to just take the flooring out and go with a low carpet due to this problem. Again, all experiences will be different, but take it slow and do as little treatment that allows you to really enjoy the room. You can also experiment with pillows, blankets, etc on the floor and in the corners or along the walls to get some idea of what carpet and other room treatments will do without having to spend, wait for them to come, and then be disappointed. Best wishes to you and have fun!.
georgehifi
I don't drink anymore but was thinking if I put my recliners on magic slides I could sneak them up and have a bar sized pool table in that rear space .scoot them back say 4' more when seriously listening.Problem is really, I spend many of my early yrs working in hifi brick and mortar .I had a fire 14 yrs ago and lost everything including all my cj tubes, magnepans etc including 2500 irreplaceable lps and 5000 cds and many guitars . After that I was  faded, jaded and done . I have slowly started noodling again in the past 5 or 6 yrs ,then a daughter and a son (yes my wife is younger then me lol) so I am looking forward to having that sanctuary, even more then "its too loud etc in my spare bedroom . So I have some constraints and sacrifices to enjoy a daddy space . These including pics on walls a dart board and maybe a pool table . The walls are in and drywalled as I stated earlier 2x6 r32 I believe 10" thick pad . I would consider removing the speaker wall and putting in the rock wool etc ,but am more interested in a good space to relax and enjoy music .I've been a guitarist for 40 yrs and a metal fabricator, hot rod ,bike guy all my life ,so my ears are getting beat up .If any of this make sense? The space will be mine so if I want to hang or paint the the wall furniture etc its all my gig ,my wife is totally cool with it 
jakesnak

Did you see the acid stain company I posted ? I was thinking the black.and you speak of epoxy ?  got a web direction?

mapman
power is not .I have a very enstensive setup to drive my property ,solar solar solar and back up generator with a lot of battery backup .I am actually switching over to the new lipo batteries not standard lipo there different and I am exploring a wind turbine as I get a lot of wind .I would also use water driven power during winter but California is super demanding on using it 
Sounds like a cool project.  If power is a bottleneck a Class D amp  is very efficient and will get you further with less. 
If the concrete is finished with a gas powered trowel, you can get it so slick and it develops a black hue to it. It actually burns the concrete. I'm in NC to, anything outdoors sealed is difficult. Indoors with what oleschool wants to do with the acid finish, sealing will enhance the colors. I've seen some pretty cool epoxy finishes.
I’m encouraged that you aren’t planning to put impervious flooring on the slab of your room. Not doing that, you have dodged a bullet IMO.
Regarding paint, many products claim to "seal" concrete with epoxy or paint. I would not use them, because it is so difficult to effectively "seal" concrete or brick against water and water vapor.
My father in-law had his cement slab in the garage ground and polished, you can eat off it. I don’t think it was sealed.
That was over 30 years ago, it’s still the same today and still shiny. Only problem is when I go there to do oil changes, the car ramps need rubber sheets under them or they just slide away when you try to drive up them.

Cheers George
I'm encouraged that you aren't planning to put impervious flooring on the slab of your room. Not doing that, you have dodged a bullet IMO.
Regarding paint, many products claim to "seal" concrete with epoxy or paint. I would not use them, because it is so difficult to effectively "seal" concrete or brick against water and water vapor. Maybe you will have more luck than most. We tried sealants on exterior brick in NC and gave up. Our concrete slab here is painted with latex concrete paint and is peeling.

You can apply a densifier to concrete, which slows down moisture penetration and cuts down dust. There are special paints meant for concrete, based on ancient formulas that bond with the minerals. Here is one of them: https://www.greenbuildingsupply.com/All-Products/Paints-Coatings-Paints-Primers/Silacote-Paint

Maybe look at this guy's website: https://lgmandassociates.com/  He is a specialist whose advice was invaluable to us when we were trying to fix our bad flooring. He's got some good articles on the Web site.

I am not trying to be a buzz-kill! But we went through months of trouble and high expenses because of bad choices we didn't even know we were making. Knowledge is power.
George you are wrapped far too tight!
No! just have to correct things other may do and pay the price for later on.

Cheers George
Thank You for the construction tip George. I would have never thought that it was the head of the screw coming through the drywall! Forgive my wording! George you are wrapped far too tight! 


It would be pretty shabby construction if the screwed in dry wall were pushed away from the studs by too much insolation
You obviously have never put up Gyprock (Drywall) in your life.
It’s not that the screws or nails pull from out from the wooden or steel stud and noggin framework.
It’s that the head of the screw pulls though the Gyprock (drywall) it’s self when under too much pressure, especially on high humidity days as the outer paper coating softens, it’s just made from paper and powered gypsum, and has no strength itself.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/finehomebuilding.s3.tauntoncloud.com/app/uploads/2020/04/24125114/END-VIEW-...

If I were to do a room from scratch, 2x6
Do that and you may have to re-do the whole lot sooner than you think, this time with 2 x 4" R4 batts in the 4" sometimes 3" wide cavities.

I would shoot liquid foam insolation into my walls and fill every nook and cranny!
The batts fill every nook and cranny also, and has resistive push against the back of the drywall, foam does not it just sits there, with no resistive spring/push behind it.

Cheers George
It would be pretty shabby construction if the screwed in dry wall were pushed away from the studs by too much insolation. If I were to do a room from scratch, 2x6, I would shoot liquid foam insolation into my walls and fill every nook and cranny! They even have different liquid foam for a variety of applications. Sound proof and the likes. I used it for panels for my walk-in cooler. When I do my frontal lobotomy's you can't even hear the screams!
Don't quite understand, George. Are you advocating flexible walls or rigid walls?
You want spring and push, not static foam just sitting in there, and if you have too much spring behind it, it will over time budge and release off the studs and noggins.

Cheers George
Yes, solid is your friend. You don't want the bass frequencies to flex the drywall with each compression, and then relax with each rarefaction. There is a reason no-one but homebuilders make speakers out of drywall.
He used 2x6, so if you use typical 4" fiberglass bats, its not going to fill the void. If he used a r36 insolation for 2x6 framing, that would be a much better application. I know of applications where the foam (which hardens) would fill any voids with the fiberglass insolation. I would think the denser the internal wall the better the acoustics? I live in a log home 6" thick and the solidity of the wood makes for very good acoustics.
As far as insulation, have you priced foam, where it is sprayed into the walls? Acoustically I would think that would be better than fiberglass.
Foam won't deaden/damp the Gyprock (drywall) panels like compressed 2 x 4" batts will, as the cavity is 4" you have 8" of batt compressed into 4" that will damp/deaden both side of the dry wall.

Cheers George