I agree on the pool table ,I had a 916 for awhile also. ..Or the perfect 1 bike workshop, with compact lift rack? The perfect audio room/workshop, when your in the dog house with the missus.
Cheers George
I'm pretty excited about my new room i'm building
I am fortunate enough to be getting kicked out of my dedicated audio space 12’x16’x9’ to make space for the kids to have separate rooms .I am remodeling a stand alone building on my property.The dimensions are 16’x24’x9’ with 10"thick cement floor.I am open to either treating and painting the floor or a floating pergo style floor ( no carpet ) with floor rugs .the walls are drywalled 2x6 construction insulated with redwood board and batten exterior, above the ceiling is insulation with open attic area(which I could add more insulation). As a few of you know I am fully off grid and generate my own power thru solar and gen backup into large battery banks then inverted to my house etc.The only furniture per say will be three reclining chairs etc .I will transfer a lot of my treatment panels and add more as needed. Also I will be trying to set up a humidity and temp control for this room when not in it, I was thinking 60deg 60% humidity .thoughts?
Any tips or thoughts are appreciated .
Thank Ray
I still will have my home theatre setup which is pretty nice in the house also so i’m stoked .
Any tips or thoughts are appreciated .
Thank Ray
I still will have my home theatre setup which is pretty nice in the house also so i’m stoked .
Showing 11 responses by georgehifi
oleschool OP bike guy all my lifeDid someone mention bike/s!!!!!!!!! This was just one I restored and sold off 10 years ago. https://forum.audiogon.com/posts/2071431 BTW pool table sounds great!!!!!!!! You always know when it’s a Ducati coming down the road with it’s Conti pipes (nothing else sounds like them) 750 Honda Firestorm with pipes came close. It’s said Fabio Taglioni (I bow my head) the man who made Ducati and the 90’ inline V-twin, labour for months over what he wanted it to sound like. A it came to him that very human spent 9 months hearing/feeling his/her mothers heart beat, and that was the firing order he mimicked. It’s in the old coffee table book the History of Ducati https://www.motorcyclealliance.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/bike-1.jpg Cheers George |
I’m encouraged that you aren’t planning to put impervious flooring on the slab of your room. Not doing that, you have dodged a bullet IMO.My father in-law had his cement slab in the garage ground and polished, you can eat off it. I don’t think it was sealed. That was over 30 years ago, it’s still the same today and still shiny. Only problem is when I go there to do oil changes, the car ramps need rubber sheets under them or they just slide away when you try to drive up them. Cheers George |
You obviously have never put up Gyprock (Drywall) in your life. It’s not that the screws or nails pull from out from the wooden or steel stud and noggin framework. It’s that the head of the screw pulls though the Gyprock (drywall) it’s self when under too much pressure, especially on high humidity days as the outer paper coating softens, it’s just made from paper and powered gypsum, and has no strength itself. https://s3.amazonaws.com/finehomebuilding.s3.tauntoncloud.com/app/uploads/2020/04/24125114/END-VIEW-... If I were to do a room from scratch, 2x6Do that and you may have to re-do the whole lot sooner than you think, this time with 2 x 4" R4 batts in the 4" sometimes 3" wide cavities. I would shoot liquid foam insolation into my walls and fill every nook and cranny!The batts fill every nook and cranny also, and has resistive push against the back of the drywall, foam does not it just sits there, with no resistive spring/push behind it. Cheers George |
As far as insulation, have you priced foam, where it is sprayed into the walls? Acoustically I would think that would be better than fiberglass.Foam won't deaden/damp the Gyprock (drywall) panels like compressed 2 x 4" batts will, as the cavity is 4" you have 8" of batt compressed into 4" that will damp/deaden both side of the dry wall. Cheers George |
oleschool OP That will work. Big waisted space behind the chairs, you only need half that. With that length you could do what I did though, move your listening chairs and speakers/subs back say 8ft. And then have with a short wall (your father in law could make no problems) behind the speaker for your subs and mains. And have something like my sunroom, maybe as a bar with small fridge behind one of the short walls, small table/chairs to do some modding/soledring or work on.etc. Cheers George |
maybe not I can't load a pic here Sure you can it's easy once you've done your 1st one, just use this https://imgbb.com/ free image hosting like I do. Up load your pic to it from your computer, and load it and you get a link to post here like I did with mine https://ibb.co/LhGsmw6 Cheers George |
oleschool OP Ray, you want "some" bass loading so 1-2mts from the back wall. And side walls no closer than 1mt. This is what I did in my room, you have a 24ft long room so this is possible,I took out the centre wall between the speakers and left short walls behind the speakers, this still gave bass loading. The imaging is like you feel you can get up and walk into it and shake hands the the artists, and the depth of the image goes out into the backyard, I also get very good imaging outside the speakers. Here is a crude drawing not to measurement/scale of the room. https://ibb.co/LhGsmw6 oleschool OP Luckily my father in law is a drywallerOK very important, 2 x compressed R4" thick batts (we call them pink batts) (Rock wool batts even better) in-between the dry wall every dry wall you have you should do ceiling to floor. (we call them gyprock panelling walls.) This will stop hollow wall drumming. This makes the walls sound like they are made of solid brick Cheers George |
oleschool OP Seeing your still in the design stage, think of this that I posted (below) on another thread, it IS the prerequisite to get great imagining and depth perspective to your sound staging, to even outside the speakers. Nothing between as far back as possible (except amp on the floor) also nothing behind or outside speakers if possible for 1.5mts or more. Rack buyer I’m quite aware of what negative effects occur with the rack in the middle, between the speakers. Unfortunately I suspect,Me: It is the single biggest killer of sound staging and depth perspective, it makes a hiend sound into midfi, because there’s no artist to place and see with your eyes. If you can’t put your equipment rack to the side, maybe the behind you, or as I did in one place that allowed it, the next room. Cheers George |