Help me pick a phono, pre and cart


Hi all,
My WF spending restraints are going away so I’m going to upgrade my system.
I primarily play CD, but also have an MMF-5 with Glass platter, Golding GX1022 cart going through a Clear Audio Nano to Ayre Ax-7e to Sig 2 Ce’s.

This year I’m going to Quatro CT’s and upgrading my vinyl pre and source side. Next year I’m upgrading my main pre and power amp.

I’m looking for help in picking a phono player pre and cart. My musical taste is pretty wide: female vocals, rock, blues, jazz; not much classical on vinyl. Think Amy Winehouse/Cold Specks/Pixies/Weezer/Jeff Beck/Johnny Winter/Winton Marsalis and Maynard Ferguson for you other old timers. LOL
My budget is about $8-10k

Right now my main thoughts are VPI Prime Scout or Prime with Grado Statement series cart, and an Ayre Px-5e pre.
In addition to specific item recommendations, I’m very interested in how to split the budget item wise. In other words more or less on player vs cart vs pre, I.e. Scout with Statement2 or Prime with Reference2 for example. Or go higher than 20-30% on the pre?
I lean towards spending the most on what’s least upgradeable - sorry if that’s too general or obvious.
Thanks much
Jim

jetson
rauliruegas"Btw, another " stupid " statement"

Yes of course Raul everyone who disagrees with you is stupid or they are ignorant or they need to grow up or they enjoy DISTORTION and NOT THE MUSIC or they lack your extensive experience, knowledge and understanding or they cannot fathom your insight, intuition and technical competence you are the infallible, omniscient, unquestioned authority on all things that you post about related to Music Reproduction Systems actually I think you should have everyone's posting privledges here summarily revoked because it makes it more difficult and challenging for truth seekers to know the truth about music and DISTORTION.
@clearthink: So, those statements makes sense to you, good for you speaks whom you are.

Btw, nothing has to do with: """  everyone who disagrees with you ....."""
the issue is not if disagrees with me that's not the main point but that maybe people are not aware of what's in disagreenment with and not with me.

Yes, I have awareness on several audio subjects you don't yet in the same manner/way that there are some audio subjects you are really good and where I'm ignorant because I'm not aware of it. Simple as that.

Btw, are you willing to learn? because I always am.

R.
Jetson.....on another turntable point......VPI tables can be upgraded again and again to bring it to a cutting edge performer.
Folks, Raul is a digital aficionado. He’s not into vinyl so much as he appears to be into trolling.

You will all note that he did not deny my assertion- although he *said* he had heard our preamp, he does not deny that he *didn’t* when I called him on it, instead making an unrelated argument (a logical fallacy argument technique known as a Strawman; by definition such an argument is false...).

With regards to bass and highs, tubes can go from DC to many MHz (our preamp amps have full power bandwidth from 1Hz to 100KHz, with bandwidth intentionally limited to prevent damage to tweeters from RFI). Old school analog color TVs had to have DC to 10MHz bandwidth in their chroma amplifiers (which were for the red, green, and blue signals of the old analog color broadcast system), and that was done with tubes, some of which are in use in audio circuits today. Neither are there any solid state phono sections with response to DC; nor does the RIAA spec past 20KHz; so many phono sections, solid state included, don’t have serious bandwidth past about 50KHz or so; raul’s bandwidth comments appear uninformed.

Raul’s comments can thus be safely ignored, especially since he seems to have taken an apocryphal stance purely for trolling purposes.

Thanks- Any suggestion on playter pad upgrade?
@jetson I like the Oracle platter pad a lot. To use it properly, it is pretty well permanently stuck to the platter, so you will want to make sure the platter's bolts that secure it to the motor are not in place.



atmasphere"Raul is a digital aficionado. He’s not into vinyl so much as he appears to be into trolling."

Raul is more like an "audio not know" than an "aficionado."
I was into tubes for some time, now even more happy without them. 
First Watt gear is excellent, i am happy that i replaced my expensive (nearly $3k) tube amp with First Watt F2J and First Watt B1 preamp. 

I think Raul is right about the tubes, i must confess.
Been into rare vintage NOS tubes and new tubes. First Watt F2J killing it with details, resolution, sound stage! 

I believe there must be a very nice tube amps, but it's a pain in the ass as the life of the tube is short and if the amp contails too many of them it's not the best idea (practically). 

Everyone should check and read more about First Watt products, even tube lovers. My advice is to audition them to compare to your tube amp. 

P.S. I do not listen to digital at all, vinyl only.  
@chakster Just a FWIW: we get about 10,000 hours out of our power tubes and warranty all the tubes in our gear for a year.
This thread is about phono gear however, not power amps.
 Another very very happy Herron phono stage user here.
The only reason Raul is so against Tubes is because he designed a solid-state phono stage. I am another one that thinks that Tubes sound like music with soul and ss is good for power supplies. 

 Although I haven't heard his full function preamp I think you would also be quite happy with atmospheres MP one.    By all accounts a great line stage and phono stage in one box. I also think the ART 9 suggestion is a very good one. 
I would also consider the new techniques if I were you. Just take your time, listen to lots of stuff and enjoy the process.Oh and don't listen to Raul. 
@analogluvr   +5

I have owned Herron Audio equipment since it was first made available.  All my electronics are from Herron Audio including his exquisite amps.  Oh, wait....  Not the digital transport.  

Raul who?
@atmasphere 

Just a FWIW: we get about 10,000 hours out of our power tubes and warranty all the tubes in our gear for a year.

You're talking about the new tubes, not the expensive vintage NOS tubes that are by far superior to the any new tube. 12at7 is what you use? The very best of this type can be $50-150 each. Same with phono stages. The NOS tubes are extremely expensive if they are good. New tubes are not equal to the old tubes from the 50s,60s and even 70s. The owner of the tube gear will spend a fortune on the tubes. I'm quit, it was enough for me. Now i have to sell the tubes i boughin the past. 

In my opinion it's much better to find a decent solid state amp or phono preamp. 

I am not agains the tubes, but the posts here looks like only "tube sound" is right which is not true! 

Also i don't believe that Herron is the answer, because it is a tube phono stage (and very expensive unit). 
 
@chakster When you auditioned the Herron VTPH-2a, what other equipment was in use in the system?  Which cartridge was used?  
@chakster I find with the herron that you really don't need to go crazy on vintage Tubes. Keith has done an excellent job voicing it with the Tubes he provides. I bought the best telefunken Tubes you can get from Andy at vintage Tubes but when I went back to stock it was 99%. Now I'm running about $150 of Philips that I preferred in a direct AB against the teles and stock. So I sold the teles, bought some more Philips and pocketed the difference.  Now I should be set for life. 
I find with the herron that you really don't need to go crazy on vintage Tubes. Keith has done an excellent job voicing it with the Tubes he provides.
That has been my feeling as well.  While in the case of various tube power amps I have used over the years I have found small signal tubes to make dramatic differences, and in most applications I have found tubes from the 1940s to 1960s to be preferable to recent production, I have never felt any desire to tinker with the voicing Keith has achieved with the tubes he supplies in his phono stage.

Best regards,
-- Al 
I preferred the Zesto Andros phono pre over the Herron, but that is just me.  Different sounding phono stages, and the Herron is definitely more Neutral sounding and sounds more like a solid state phono stage.  Depends on what sound you're looking for.  My dealer loves the VPI line, as do I.   I would go with the VPI table, Zesto Andros, and for the cartridge either the Ortofon Cadenza Bronze or an Airtight PC7.  If you order all from one dealer then you are likely to get a better discount built in from my experiences.  Feel free to message me if you'd like his info.  Best of luck in your search and welcome to the vinyl club!   

If the Herron sound more like solid state phono stage then why not just buy a decent solid state phono stage? 

I've never tried Herron producsts, i believe they are great, but there must be equal or even better solid state phono stages. Do you believe? 


@chakster How can you pass blind judgement against a unit you've never heard?  Why are you so quick to pass negative judgement on Herron gear?

I have never heard anything as good as a Herron VTPH-2a nor have I heard an equal.  Tube, solid state, hybrid.  I can't claim to have heard the same 17,926 phono stages Raul claims, but I have heard quite a few.  Herron tops what I've heard.
basis w Vector arm
the Triplaner is wicked good but out of range $$$
Delos
Aesthetix 
my $.02
does Ralph have a stand alone phono pre ?
i would consider his gear also

To be truthful I have never heard a Herron
what is out there for a Delos ???
into a NAIM
the Nova II is pretty good
and I have some supposedly fantastic Tom Evans coming.....
we shall hear.... and then see
or not....
ha

Thanks all- very sincerely! The question that plagues my mind is where and how I can audition these different preamps and turntables, or more importantly combinations of same - and at the same time separate the differences in the carts or other gear the dealers have.  With other gear, I have been working with Johnny Rutan at Audio connection. He sells VPI and Basis. I haven’t talked to him yet about turntables, but from what I’ve seen the Basis units are out of my price range. Another local dealer sells Clear Audio and Pro-Ject but I’d rather not give him my money (bad history). Ultimately,  it seems that I need to just make a decision that leaves me with modification options in the future. 
Since the major difference between the Technics and VPI seems to be belt vs Direct drive, perhaps that’s the area I need to concentrate on as far as my listening preference.
Interestingly, Technics own website states that DD was/is mainly considered for DJ use, while belt drive was for “Hi- Fi” use. 
I guess I’ll just have to find some different dealers and audition different turntables. Still I  don’t know how I will differentiate it does sound quality between turn tables versus other gear that the dealers use.Uggh.
@jetson

Technics own website states that DD was/is mainly considered for DJ use, while belt drive was for “Hi- Fi” use.

That’s not true, historically Technics SL1200 is a japanese hi-fi component than later became an iconic turntable for DJs worldwide. First DJs started with Thorens TD125 and even with Garrard turntables. EMT was a professional turntable too. As you might know that Technics supplied SP-10mkII and EPA-100 tonearms for Radio Stations in the 70’s, at that day DJ equipment was way different from todays junk.
Dear @sbank : Please can you attest  if what i listened at your place were a phonolinepreamp and a pair of monoblocks by Atmasphere manufacture you owned in your audio system?

Sorry to disturb you about, thank's in advance. Appreciated.

R.


You're talking about the new tubes, not the expensive vintage NOS tubes that are by far superior to the any new tube. 12at7 is what you use? The very best of this type can be $50-150 each. Same with phono stages. The NOS tubes are extremely expensive if they are good. New tubes are not equal to the old tubes from the 50s,60s and even 70s. The owner of the tube gear will spend a fortune on the tubes.
@chakster 

Yes- new tubes. We don't recommend NOS tubes for either the output tubes or the phono tubes. In the case of the latter, its just too hard to find NOS tubes that are actually in fact quiet- those were sold off the shelves decades ago and all that are left now are the dregs unless someone got extremely lucky. So we don't recommend NOS tubes for our phono sections- we encourage people to use new tubes if they want the best noise floor and lowest microphonics.
does Ralph have a stand alone phono pre ?
@tomic601 We don't- we feel that a stand alone can't sound as good due to the cable connection problems and further, we have what seem to be the best line stage circuits anywhere owing to their unique direct-coupled outputs- they play bass better than other preamps (tube or solid state) and are fast in the mids and highs like solid state but without the glare.
We've considered a phono section many times, the problem is that to get around the interconnect connection issues we have to put in the circuitry that is in the output buffer of our preamps. The problem there is that the buffer (which is used to prevent the interconnect cable from having any effect on the sound at all, regardless of length or cost) has a slight gain loss, so when we add that, then its the same circuit we're making in our full function preamps! So literally the difference would be a phono section that was all the same circuit as we make now, only missing the input selector switches and volume control.

I've always been into vinyl- our preamps were built to optimize phono playback.
Modwright has a new tube phonostage PH 9.0 coming out soon. I will be a beta tester and will be comparing it to a Rogue Audio Ares Magnum (another good tube phono pre). The 9.0 has the controls on the front it uses 6922/6C45 tubes versus the 12AX7/12AU7 in the Ares. The ART9 is a great cartridge also can recommend the Ortofon Cadenza Bronze.
I have a pair of Vandersteen 5As, ARC Ref 3 preamp, ARC Ref 100 amp and am now ready to get a turntable,etc. My preamp does not have phono stage...so any suggestions about best way to complete my analog system will be greatly appreciated. 
Something from the ARC Ref series. Maybe a Ref 2 or Ref 3 Phono stage.

You should probably start a new thread as well. Be prepared to be campaigned about the Herron phono stage
@atmasphere 

Yes- new tubes. We don't recommend NOS tubes for either the output tubes or the phono tubes. In the case of the latter, its just too hard to find NOS tubes that are actually in fact quiet- those were sold off the shelves decades ago and all that are left now are the dregs unless someone got extremely lucky. So we don't recommend NOS tubes for our phono sections- we encourage people to use new tubes if they want the best noise floor and lowest microphonics.

Most of the reputable tube dealers manually tested each NOS tube for low microphonics, low noise etc. Lucky people knows the difference between new and nos when it comes to the great tubes. I bet you have some decent NOS tubes yourself. 

Anyway it's a good news that your or herron preamps works great with stock new tubes. 

BTW i really like the design of Atma-Sphere MP-1 and MP-3 
Most of the reputable tube dealers manually tested each NOS tube for low microphonics, low noise etc. Lucky people knows the difference between new and nos when it comes to the great tubes. I bet you have some decent NOS tubes yourself.

Anyway it’s a good news that your or herron preamps works great with stock new tubes.

BTW i really like the design of Atma-Sphere MP-1 and MP-3
Thanks!
Actually I don’t stash NOS tubes and I don’t use them. My thinking is I should be able to make it work with the garden variety of what’s available. Further, we usually find that the tube dealers really don’t have tubes as quiet as the new ones (we have found this out when customers have sometimes ignored our advice and tried to use NOS tubes). So I really mean it when I say we don’t recommend NOS tubes in our phono sections.
“I was just at John Rutan’s a couple of weeks ago, listening to the new Ayre EX-8 integrated.
As far as TT’s go, he carries VPI, and Clear Audio, which is the reason I was considering a Prime TT. It seems difficult to find places where I can audition A/B comparisons on turntables. Never mind cartridges.”

Audio Connection also carries Rega, AMG and Music Hall TT’s. For vinyl I would talk to Nick, he’s the analog guru there. Nick will let you try some phono stages at home as well.
I meant to add that I don’t think they have any VPI’s, set up at Audio Connection, though I know they recently sold a few Prime’s. 
@joey54 Thanks, as I recall he has blonde hair and glasses.
I figure that I’ll buy my phono pre and so I can audition with my amps.

I would appreciate if anyone can comment on the tables these brands offer as I’d like to buy from Audio Connection; both because I like John, and because he’ll give me a discount since I plan to buy Quatro CTs at the same time.  Although that doesn’t mean I’ve decided against the Technics SL1200G or a different used TT, although again, I hesitate to buy used since I can’t audition, although I guess I could re-sell. Thanks 
Yes, thats Nick. He can give you a good idea of the differences in sound between the VPI's and the Clearaudio's.

Clearaudio makes a number of good turntable depending upon your budget. Given your budget I would suggest the Clearaudio Performance DC turntable. Audio Connection can give you a discount on a cartridge as well if you buy it with your table and choose any cartridge that Musical Surrounding sells. If you go with the AT that probably won't apply.

The one thing I have learned is that you'll want a phono stage that is highly adjustable if you want to use a moving coil cartridge. Loading can make the difference in SQ. I was interested in the Ayre phono stage as well but it did not have the correct loading available for my AMG cartridge and I ended up with a Musical Surrounding Nova II. I would like to upgrade to the Aesthetix Rhea, eventually.

I have done a comparison between a VPI Prime, not the signature version, and the Clearaudio Performance DC in my home system and I preferred the Clearaudio. YMMV and I urge you to hear them both. Your listening priorities and mine may be different. For me the Clearaudio sounded much more natural however, they did not have the same cartridge on them so it really wasn't apples to apples. 
@jetson this is where I believe it is very necessary to have a trusting relationship with your dealer. Johnny R is IMO that kind of dealer - they disply the 7 and Richard who is a hyper fan of Vinyl stops by there and listens and they get great sound...
my Basis came thru him to @ctsooner ( Pete ) but you are on right track listening to it as a system there trying to discern one phono pre from another when most if not all the other gear changes is madness...

 

@joey54 The adjustability is one of the main reasons I’m currently planning on the Herron VTPH-2A. When I spoke with Keith he said I probably wouldn’t need any loading plugs with the AT9. I’ll talk with Nick first and see what other carts he might recommend and be sure to talk with Keith Herron again. From what I have researched online any Basis is way outside my budget. 
@tomic601 I have spoken with @ctsooner(Pete) before. He was real helpful when I was looking at speakers (Vandy) and amps (Ayre). I’m unfamiliar with Delos and NOVA. I will give him a call. Thanks 
@jetson talk w Johnny R also
pretty sure he has the Etna Delos ( and way North of that ) and tge NOVA as it is in Musical Surroundings group - as is a table you are considering
i was advocating a used Basis, who knows Johnny is so plugged in he may have a line on one......
anyway
good hunting
@jetson My opinion...  

And for that matter, a used early VPI TNT or Aries can be tweaked to perform outstanding without a lot of effort.  There is a used fairly early TNT Hot Rod with a JMW-12 arm with a stand for sale for $3500 somewhere on another forum site with a for sale section.  You will need to search around for it, but for $3500 for the entire package, I think it's a steal.  Just my opinion.  
That does look like a good deal. The only issue is shipping to NJ. I messaged the guy and he’s willing. I just need to think about it and maybe contact VPI to see if they'll give it a once over.
@jetson I have heard that VPI is willing to help check out their products.  
@rauliruegas I went back to old gmails to try to remember what year it was that you visited me, & heard my Atma-Sphere MA1 mkII amps and MP-3(Ralph’s most affordable model) preamp/phonopreamp. The preamp was fitted with my personal choices of vintage tubes, which ones exactly escapes my memory at this point. Another variable worth noting is you may recall is that my house was located about 1000ft. from the largest radio tower in my state, and it wreaked havoc on my phono playback at times with a wide variety of phono stages of all design types. 
My gmail goes back to 2008 and the oldest messages we exchanged referenced your visit earlier. So what you heard at my place was 7-8 year old designs back 11 or more years ago. In other words gear designed by @atmasphere about 20 years ago. IME, not a fair comparison to what he offers today. We also listened through my Merlin speakers which while arguably quite revealing in the mids & treble, lack the ability to reproduce very low bass at all. To use that listening session as a testament to the detriment of tube gear or @atmasphere ’s gear in particular just doesn’t hold water IMHO.
@rauliruegas, unless it’s to suggest additional specific ss phono stages for @jetson in his budget, I’d suggest resisting the temptation to reply with more statements about merit of SS vs. tube gear or at least respect @jetson’s kindly worded request for you to take that conversation to a thread about SS vs. tube phono stages or gear in general. In a free world you have the choice to build bridges or burn them. With all due respect, I suggest you do the former.
As an aside, I'm about to go to a Nagra SS battery-powered phono stage in my system. FWIW, my experience is that both design types can be great and it's more about the individual design than just "tube vs. ss". Cheers,
Spencer
@jetson Thought I read someone suggesting to you a VPI TNT V HR on one of the other sites. I just read that ad and want to caution you about it. First, it's not a HR. HR denotes that instead of a separate armboard drilled/screwed into the plinth, that the tonearm attaches directly to the plinth, theoretically eliminating potential additional resonances from the armboard. 
Second the JMW arm is a really early version. I owned a JMW12.6 which similarly had a multi-piece base that attached to the plinth. The pieces of the base have no markings or other guides that will allow you to optimize the placement on the plinth. If you ever need to disassemble the arm(e.g. when I changed the DIN connection box from RCA to a balanced version) there is no way to ensure proper reassembly. Harry realized this and changed to a one piece tonearm base in the 12.7 version of the JMW, a significant improvement.  IMHO that table is far from a bargain, and one I wouldn't want to one even at a better price. Cheers,
Spencer
@sbank and @jetson 

My opinion....

(I was the one making the suggestion on the "other forum."))

I have that early version of the JMW-12.  Nothing at all wrong with it from either a performance or maintenance perspective.  Even have two arm wands.  My Ariea Extended is in the original configuration except for the feet (now three Stillpoint cones instead of the VPI sandals) and placing it on a maple butcher block board.  It's an easy table to set up and when it's set up correctly, on those Stillpoint cones, it is a spectacular performer.  

More opinion....

Without hearing the EXACT table under consideration, I would suggest that at $3500, it is the single best bargain in turntables currently available.  Even if it is not a textbook Hot Rod, it's still a great table priced maybe $1500 below similar models.

And yet another boring opinion....

@sbank   I hear very clearly your concerns.  If the table is kept in its current configuration, it's my opinion that it will be a great performer.  Even if it is converted to balanced outputs from the tonearm, that's a matter of a small box swap-out.  Not sure how Mat / Harry suggests making that change.  
@bpoletti Yes, you'd think "a small box swap-out" is a simple thing, but the problem is that to change it out you need to remove the entire tonearm. The pieces that make up the base two pieces of the "dog leg", the VTA tower, etc. all separate. After swapping the rectangle box, when you then align the base pieces they need to be at the exact same angle as before, but there is no way to guarantee the correct geometry. And guessing or going by sight alone will cause serious detriment to the ability of the cartridge to track correctly and do its job.
When I called Harry after buying the XLR "little box" asking for direction on how to reassemble the arm and pointing out the lack of markings etc. to him, he wowed me by telling me to send back the arm and that he would replace it with the then-new 12.7 at zero cost! He even told me to keep the old arm-wand and use it as a spare. That was great service. That VPI is no more. 
A friend of mine is a professional musician for one of the top 5 orchestras in the US. He bought a Prime directly from VPI and for months knowing exactly what he should be hearing on most classical recordings, he had a strange polarity problem that resulted in weird soundstage effects like instruments in the wrong place and no depth. After checking & rechecking his cabling, turntable setup etc. and having a couple of friends do the same, they all concluded that the table was hooked up right. He called VPI's service mgr., (Mark?), and then Mat. They both blamed his mis-wiring the cartridge connections which was triple-checked, then the phono stage. So he sent that in for service, which of course wasn't needed.
After waiting for phono stage return, at the end of his rope with no solution in sight, I brought another whole analog setup over and switched out everything one at a time to debug it all. At the end of the day 3 of us concluded that the "little Din-RCA box" on his VPI arm was improperly wired inside the box. Mat laughed at the suggestion, but eventually agreed to have it sent back. Weeks later, a correctly wired box showed up and everything finally worked as it should. After that whole fiasco, I can't recommend VPI to anyone anymore. There are too many great products & great companies with stellar support to accept anything else. Yes, VPI has it's fans, but all is not wine & song. At least no one is suggesting that @jetson order one from advertised "#1 VPI dealer" Soundstage Direct. Cheers,
Spencer
@sbank 

My opinion....

Wow!!  What a GREAT reason to use single-ended / unbalanced wiring!   And a great reason to enjoy the superior performance of single ended electronics!!  YOMV.
@bpoletti the story about my friend was with a single-ended Prime, lol. I am happy you haven't had any trouble and suggest that if you or others ever need to disassemble just be sure to measure every angle & take a bunch of pics before doing so. 
YouI had enough of this thread. Good luck, @jetson, whatever you decide. Cheers,
Spencer 
@sbank 
Thanks for all your insight, I’d go on but be superfluous. Really appreciate it. 
@bpoletti 
Thanks to you as well, I don’t disagree that that TT isn’t a great deal, but not for me, 
Cheers,
Jim
The one thing I have learned is that you'll want a phono stage that is highly adjustable if you want to use a moving coil cartridge. Loading can make the difference in SQ. I was interested in the Ayre phono stage as well but it did not have the correct loading available for my AMG cartridge and I ended up with a Musical Surrounding Nova II.
@joey54 If you have to load the cartridge to get it to sound right, this is a sign that the phono section is unstable and unhappy when RFI is applied to its input. Loading detunes the Radio Frequency resonant peak that is created by the inductance of the cartridge and the capacitance on the interconnect cable. This is why some phono preamps sound better when the cartridge is 'loaded'.

Cartridge manufacturers make loading recommendations because they have no idea if the phono section you're using is stable or not. Generally their recommendations are in fact that- very general, since they don't know the amount of capacitance in the tone arm cable either. If the phono section is stable, the stock 47K load will do the job.
A down side of loading is that you are causing the coils of the cartridge to drive a much lower impedance- meaning that they are doing more work. This extra energy comes from somewhere- the stylus in the groove- so when you employ lower impedances for loading you also reduce the compliance of the cartridge and its ability to track higher frequencies. Something to think about.
@atmasphere   Just a question to help my understanding of cartridge motor operation and loading.  Only seeking information from one who knows....

Does cartridge loading impact motor operation, cartridge compliance, frequency response or other factors in playback?  Or are these factors too insignificant to be considered when using a well-designed phono stage?  

I don't mind if your answer is very detailed. 

Thanks in advance,

Bill 
@bpoletti It has to, Ohm's Law and such.

How much it does so is not as well researched, but I've seen a good number of audiophiles do loading by ear- essentially dialing out brightness by using a potentiometer as the loading resistor and when they felt they had it right, replaced the pot with a fixed value. I've done this myself.

But loading does not affect the output of a LOMC cartridge insofar as the coil is concerned- this is because the inductance is so low that it basically doesn't ring at audio frequencies. I know this from having passed squarewaves through such cartridges and observing the effect of the cartridge coils on an oscilloscope (BTW this is not for the faint of heart- one screwup and you could degauss the magnet or damage the coil).

So there are really only two explanations for why loading kills brightness, and stopping the ringing in the cartridge is not one of them (although in high output MM cartridges loading does affect the cartridge at audio frequencies). The two explanations are:1) the preamp is bright due to RFI; removing the RFI corrects the problem2) the cartridge is less able to respond to high frequencies due to the extra work it has to do.
The problem with the first explanation is that by varying the load, you can vary the brightness like a tone control. It should be that once the load has killed the RF resonance, that the preamp is OK. However, the peak that we are concerned about is a good 30db higher than that of the signal, and by detuning it only a little it can still have an effect. So the loading, if variable, should have a slight tone control effect. But you can load the cartridge so that its too dull... although I find that such might also just result in reduced output- a lot depends on the individual cartridge.

The problem with the second explanation is that its too disturbing. Once the RF resonance is killed, by decreasing the load value even further, we can still hear that highs are being decreased with *some* cartridges. This does suggest that the cartridge itself is becoming stiffer and less able to respond to higher frequencies. It may also mean that it does not track as well in some arms, that depending on the effective mass and resulting mechanical resonance which has been changed by the electrical loading.

IMO, this topic deserves more attention, since one of the main complaints against vinyl is ticks and pops, and one of the other complaints is the nuance required to get a proper setup. Both would be made easier if there were more light on this subject.


@atmasphere    Thank you. 

I'm using a Herron VTPH-2a (big surprise to everyone, eh?) with no loading.  I have not experienced any change in the AT cartridges' performance run in that unit.