Basement listing room
So…I have lost the eternal battle over tower speakers in the family room.
However, I know I’m in good company and would like some advice on my Plan B.
Here’s the current family room set-up:
Stereo Listing:
Induction Dynamics ID-1 Tower Speakers
Parasound A21 2-channel amp
Marantz AV Receiver SR6013
Source – mostly Tidal Hi-Res
Additional components for surround sound in same room:
4 Induction dynamic ID-S2 Bookshelf speakers
1 Induction dynamics ID-S2 Center Channel
1 ID-SWC4 Induction Dynamics subwoofer
Induction Dynamics A2 subwoofer amp
My plan is to keep the 5 smaller-profile speakers & sub in the family room for surround sound set up. I’ll shift to using two bookshelf speakers and the sub for music listening in that room.
I can then take the towers downstairs and give them their own home.
Right now, the basement is raw space. Poured concrete floors and walls. Ceiling height of 7’6’ in the main area, and 7’1” in a 2nd section. Rough dimensions 29’ x 41’
I’ve linked to a floorplan with exact dimensions. (I did not clutter the diagram with ductwork, plumbing, support columns, etc, which I know should be considered, but the main mechanicals and noise factors are on the other side of the basement, opposite the stairs, and sufficiently isolated (not shown on diagram)):
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3579jgzeiw8j4l8/Basement%20finish-able%20space.pdf?dl=0
I have two main questions for all the way-more-knowledgeable-than-me folks on this forum (I’m an amateur in this audioworld, though a lover of music since forever).
1) Does creating a listening room in the basement make sense given the space as described above? I can take up as much or as little of that space as needed. If it makes sense, what would be:
a. the ideal dimensions
b. the ideal placement of speakers/components given dimensions
c. the ideal materials? (I don’t have a budget per-se, but would like to find the best balance of quality-for-price. To put it another away, I’m not going to skimp where there are real gains to be had, but I don’t want to cross that line of diminishing returns)
2) What is the best why to maximize existing components without duplicating unless necessary? For example, the Marantz has two zones, I assume it’d make sense to use that feature. I can run wire/cables easily between family room and basement – though some of distances could be long depending on how the room ends up configured.) I marked on the diagram where my equipment currently resides on the main floor above.
a. If I were to improve my current stereo system (DAC, pre-amp, etc?), could those be configured to also benefit the upstairs system? Or do I need independent components for each set-up now? What are your recommendations to bring this system to the next level?
I’m sure there will be a lot of opinions on all this, but I appreciate any help/direction I can get! Thanks in advance!
mijostyn Thank you for the advice. I had not really considered the volume of space... I had been reading about sound wave lengths and dimensions and had not considered that element. Appreciate the insight, as well as the staggered 2x4 stud strategy - easy enough to implement and great tip. rocray Thanks for sharing your experience! |
Skimantra, Two issues. Your speakers can only be expected to load a given volume effectively. You do not want them getting lost. Space B is as large as I would want to go with most Tower speakers. Next, the development of a first class image requires perfect symmetry between the two channels. If one speaker is near a corner the other one had better be also. I do not care about the exact dimensions as long as they are dissimilar. Once set up you will have to do some sound absorption on the front and side walls. If you ever decide to add subs the front corners will be perfect. This size room is also good for bigger system's if you should ever go that way. A pair of Sound Labs 745's would do perfect here. This is your listening room. Make it the best you can and hang a sign on the door, "For Dads Only." The other space will make a great game room for everyone else. You might want to make that wall a sound wall. You use 2 X 6 Sill and cap then stagger 2 X 4 studs. Each wall gets its own set of studs on 16" centers. Other than the sill and cap there is no solid connection between the walls. This drops sound transfer at least 10 dB. |
Oldhvymec has some good advice. Slowly building a dedicated 2ch system is a great idea. Get yourself set up with the basics,and build up from there as funds allow. Sometimes budgets force us into compromises. I think you can set up a nice sounding system in your basement. Will it be a drop ceiling,or drywall? We had our basement finished about three years ago. It’s an odd shaped room,about 25’x 18’ at its widest point. This room was strictly used as TV/Movie room. I set up a 5.4 ch HT system. (Currently only running 2 subs. I’ll be adding 2 more when funds allow. I ran all wires before the insulation and drywall went up.) Recently I set up another 2.1 ch system in the room. I set the speakers up on the 25’front wall. We have no acoustic treatments up. There is only furniture and w2w carpet. I’m absolutely shocked that it sounds as good as it does. You might be in a trial and error situation. Try your speakers on a long wall,then try them on a shorter wall. You’ll probably know right away which placement is better,and then go from there. Best of luck! |
thecarpathian/jetter- I agree with you on the bracelets for millercarbon but the cost of the bracelet is worth more than any of the bogus info he has to offer. He is the only person who can buy cheap audio gear, make a $5 tweak, and all of a sudden it’s a $1,000,000 beater. As for this post, your AV receiver is the weak link for your audio system. I would recommend getting a nice audio preamp with a home theater bypass input so you get quality audio plus you can route your 5 channel thru the Audio preamp |
tk21 Good points. I was kind of assuming that with specific dimensions and specific materials, the basement room itself would become acoustically predictable. But maybe not. And while I did place blame on the wife, it’s more that we now have our first toddler in the mix, and I’m frankly as worried about the speakers sitting out from the wall as she is about the ‘look’. But maybe different speakers will act differently in the room and allow placement closer to the rear wall. Not sure. corelli Thanks for the design advice – that’s exactly the kind of details I was looking for – I want to “do it right from the start” and there’s always something you don’t think of, so I appreciate you sharing your experience. daledeee1 Thank you for taking the time to offer so much insight! There’s enough concensus here that a streamer to a DAC to the Parasound is the way to go for now…(I'll probably get a separate 5 channel amp for upstairs). I’ll research your suggestions and see what might work best for me. Much appreciated! |
Being "sent to the basement" isn't all bad, but to set up a proper room you have some work to do, IMO. I had a system in my basement but it wasn't set up right and equipment was in need of repair. I started over, so here are my experiences. I would not share systems. It is easier to optimize both systems that way. On a side note, I blew up a nice 50W class A amp once because I left the speakers on down stairs and tried to drive 4 at once. First and only time I had smoke in all my years of audio experience. I would put up a wall on the dotted line,carpet the floor, install wall over the concrete, install a ceiling. This can be drywall. Some install acoustic insulation in the wall and ceiling. Drywall does not completely stop sound waves by the way. I think the 29 ft depth is OK assuming your speakers will play loud enough. Placement of speakers can be done using the Vandersteen method. It is on their website. Otherwise, place them about as far apart as you are sitting back in the room. You might have to toe them in. Those look like pretty nice speakers and not too bad to place. I would call GIK acoustics for room treatment. If you clap your hands now it would ring quite well I'm sure. I worked with a recording engineer named Mike and he was super helpful. This will probably be about $2K but well worth it. As far as equipment goes you have a good amp. You could set up the following: streamer to dac to amp. A preamp is not needed unless you want to play CD, tuner or phono. I use volume in my streamer app. Some DAC also have volume but I prefer to leave them turned all the way up and use the streamer app. I think the Parasound is a Class D amp but not sure. If so, you could try a Class AB amp. You do need good power to properly drive those speakers. Equipment choices: A Bluesound Node 2i is a good streamer. $550. If you want more expensive make sure it has a good app that works with your streaming service which is 20 a month. The DAC is "OK" in the Bluesound so I added a DAC. Choices include Topping, Denafrips, Benchmark, Orchid, MHDT, Schiit to name a few. You didn't mention a dollar limit so you can buy integrated amps with streamers and DAC now. I prefer separates. Subs: Regardless of what your speaker specs say, they will sound better with subs. However, the subs have to be properly integrated with the system. This is why multiple subs are often used. It helps eliminate standing waves. Your room treatments are also helpful in good bass response. I recommend crossing the sub over at 80-100Hz. I would call Audiokinesis. You can get 2 subs for $1600 and 4 for about $3200. It includes an amp. If you like messing around you can buy a DSP and mike and try to get rid of all the acoustic problems but when I got all the treatments and placement of speakers/subs right the benefit from the DSP wasn't worth it IMO. |
I had a small basement room around 13x15 with a drop ceiling. I sounded great! So you can do it. I would place polyethylene plastic against the concrete walls and use standard 2x4 studs. Fiberglass insulation. Then another vapor barrier. Then your sheetrock. For the 24' wall, use 2x6 and even double sheet rock for a solid wall. Use 12g wiring or even 10g--won't cost much more if you are doing the work. High grade AC outlets as well. Do it right from the start. Drop ceiling worked well for me. (I suspect this acted as a bass trap in my small room-a good thing) Place speakers about 1/3 out from the front 18' wall, your seat at the 2/3 point from that same wall. Later add some DIY room treatment and b amazed! |
For less than the cost of finishing a basement plus setting up a second audio/video system, you might be able to find a different set of towers with a higher Wife Acceptance Factor and even better SQ than the ones you have. Then you wouldn't have to deal with typical basement issues such as low ceilings, humidity, or hard surfaces. Not to mention the possibility that even after all that work and expense, you won't be happy with the room acoustics. AFAIK, nobody offers refundable in-home trials on finished basements. |
Lol on the “listing” jokes thecarpathian, three_easy_payments, flrun I'm waiting for someone to suggest I rent my basement to a Realtor. But seriously, my bad…I tried to edit it soon as I posted but the edit function appears to allow modification to everything except the subject line. Hoping to avoid the same “move too fast” mistakes with my basement room.
Millercarbon I’ve been a musician my whole life. But my money was spent on my instruments not my audio gear. The equipment listed above I came by through an estate sale. Wherever it falls on the spectrum, I found these Induction Dynamics towers, with Parasound amp, placed properly in the room, to offer a transcendent experience. For me, there is now no going back. So yes, I’m a novice, and yes, your answer is condescending, but still, I’d appreciate hearing where your priorities would be were you in my situation. I’m interested in prioritizing component upgrades in concert with my “move downstairs”. And I’m here to learn.
Thecarpathian I will take your advice on separate components. But as a layman, it seems to me that if the two systems were not being used simultaneously, and if they could be literally 8 feet apart (albeit separated by a floor/ceiling), there must be some cost efficiencies to be gained by sharing certain components via 8 foot up-down connects. No?
Mijostyn
Thank you – this was a very direct answer to my questions. My only follow up is to your “build a wall right on the line”: I’ve read online a lot about “golden means” and various room proportions. Given that I’m starting from scratch, should I delve into this level of acoustical theory? Is it not very relevant given the level of my system? Or did your suggestion already take this into account?
Thanks for the specifics on the system itself. The Zpre3 appears to be an inexpensive upgrade. I will look into that and would be interested to hear what others have to say about that vs other potential pre-amps.
“Just need a digital source or two. You would have to add a phono stage if you want to do that.” Why would I need a phono stage for digital sources? Forgive my ignorance, but I thought phono stages were for turntables.
Thanks everyone! Anyone have specific advice on room dimensions or materials? (I think I have a lot of advice on system set-up coming :) |
I'm of the same opinion. Share the Preamp/receiver, in another room? That doesn't work for me, either. Will it work? yes. Will it be easy to work on, NO! Never understood zones, unless it was an office space with cubicles, or maybe a "KIDS" zone. Everything is unbreakable, HIGH up and out of reach. What does an inexpensive SECOND receiver cost? Or better yet get a Zpre3 or 2 preamp and use the A21 with it. Talk about sweet. Just need a digital source or two. You would have to add a phono stage if you want to do that. 250-600. on the preamp. I picked up a Zpre3 for 295.00. WONDERFUL little preamp... Sub out, remote sub control, remote, Really cool little pre, I use mine with a C20 Mac, (CRAZY good combo) in the tape loop and a Nord 3 (separate) amps in one enclosure. NC500s. A 2.5 analog system. Two mains, 2 bass bins (a 12k class D amp and an active OXO), and 3 lowrider Subs, all PE 1200 DSP plate amps. Buddy I can get the room HIP hoppin', if you know what I mean. That downstairs system will back out sheetrock nails. We set the rock with nails. then screw it off. The set nails backed out of the sheetrock one night, playing REAL LOUD! (KIDS) 5 years ago... Surround upstairs, Super stereo downstairs. You could get going for the preamp alone, add subs as needed. Have fun, and figure a way.... Regards |
Space B is a nice size for most tower speaker. You should build a solid wall right on the dotted line. Carpet the floor and use sound deadening tile on the ceiling. The speakers will go on the 18 foot wall. Use the Parasound to drive the towers. You will need a front end for it. Sounds like all you need is a streamer/DAC which should be able to talk to your upstairs system over your home network. Once you have it set up and furnished you can deal with room acoustics if you are so inclined. |
Ok seriously. There will be people better qualified than me to comment but it appears you have good space down there but you do have to address acoustic issues with all the concrete, lower ceiling, duct work ect. I don't think it will be a problem to do you will just need a little planning and maybe some material you wouldn't normally need since it is in the basement. Plenty of people have listening rooms in the basement. Will |