I hear you teajay, while I've owned some very good speakers none were in the $20k price range..........and thankfully with the SE's I'll never have to spend that much!
Tekton Double Impacts
Anybody out there heard these??
I have dedicated audio room 14.5x20.5x9 ft. Currently have Marantz Reference CD/Intergrated paired to Magnepan 1.7's with REL T-7 subs. For the vast majority of music I love this system. The only nit pick is that it is lacking/limited in covering say below 35 hz or so. For the first time actually buzzed the panel with an organ sacd. Bummer. Thought of upgrading subs to rythmicks but then I will need to high pass the 1.7's. Really don't want to deal with that approach.
Enter the Double Impacts. Many interesting things here. Would certainly have a different set of strengths here. Dynamics, claimed bottom octave coverage in one package, suspect a good match to current electronics.
I've read all the threads here so we do not need to rehash that. Just wondering if others out there have FIRST HAND experience with these or other Tekton speakers
Thanks.
I have dedicated audio room 14.5x20.5x9 ft. Currently have Marantz Reference CD/Intergrated paired to Magnepan 1.7's with REL T-7 subs. For the vast majority of music I love this system. The only nit pick is that it is lacking/limited in covering say below 35 hz or so. For the first time actually buzzed the panel with an organ sacd. Bummer. Thought of upgrading subs to rythmicks but then I will need to high pass the 1.7's. Really don't want to deal with that approach.
Enter the Double Impacts. Many interesting things here. Would certainly have a different set of strengths here. Dynamics, claimed bottom octave coverage in one package, suspect a good match to current electronics.
I've read all the threads here so we do not need to rehash that. Just wondering if others out there have FIRST HAND experience with these or other Tekton speakers
Thanks.
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Hey Tom, My mistake I mean't SE's in my post. So far, with very few exceptions, the great majority of owners of speakers that retail for more then 20K have sold off their much more expensive speakers because they were totally out performed by either DI's/SE's that I personally know. The list is up to eight professional reviewers, who were stunned at what they were hearing, yet had the honesty to go with what their ears were hearing. |
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Did I mention how much I love the sound of the LTA UltraLinear amp with my Double Impacts? I was going to write a review but a fellow Agoner beat me to it. https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/review-linear-tube-audio-lta-ultralinear-amplifier |
BTW. I sent the link for the video to Eric, and ask him if that guy in the video was correct. His reply was Yes. He told me exactly what aniwolfe said " Yip. And it’s far from necessary... only good for small rooms... and for DI speakers produced between June-October last year" I think mine sound fine either way.It is just a matter of preference . my room is pretty small. I have the Lygndorf room correction which helps with the small room , tremendously. |
aniwolfe312 posts01-24-2018 9:58pm@treebeard1 If you are using anything with equalizer capabilities , such as JRiver, you can lower the 600hz and the 1khz by about 1.5 db to 2 db(depending on how forward your amp pre-amp and cable combination sounds ) for very close to the same results,without having to install any resistor. It seems to lower ,IMO,mostly the vocals area. This lowering of these frequencies allows the bass to become more prominent. I think this is a desirable effect for most people. I actually have mine at -1.5 db for each of those frequencies. Seems to work well for me . |
It would be nice if Eric would take 10 minutes to post some info on the various reincarnations of the DI crossover. Would probably save him a lot of time/calls in the long run. I imagine that the latest version may or may not be the ticket for any given individual's system/room/ears. But it would be really nice to hear Eric's take on what each version accomplished in a relative sense. For now I'm sitting tight on crossover changes but it's still on my radar. @grannyring Bill, very sorry to hear you won't be posting here sharing your technical expertise. That is a real loss. Please reconsider! Subs should be arriving today. Looking forward to hearing (but not lifting) them. |
I too love all this thread has had to offer. It's great hearing from so many different people driving their DI's with many different components and also how they can be modified. I love the IDEA of the modifications but don't trust my skills ( or lack thereof) to implement them. I'm loving the SE's so much I'll sit back and enjoy them as they are for now. I do thank Grannyring for sharing his knowledge and for being so generous in helping others. jcarcopo....now that was one crazy looking speaker that would be interesting to hear. Thanks for sharing the link. |
I saw an interesting Tekton DI inspired copycat that takes the same idea to the extreme. It's at 3:56 into this video. https://youtu.be/yVZKr5nITBM |
IMHO, David Ten and Grannyring both offer significant value to this forum. I for one find it difficult to follow along on too many threads seeking needed information. Most of the tech heavy information I read about I will probably not be able to implement, but can put that aside and focus on what is more in my wheelhouse(so to speak). I hope Grannyring continues to share right here for all interested Tekton owners to try and learn from his wealth of knowledge. LP |
@treebeard1 If you are willing to do the upgrade considering that your manufacturing date may be close, then it's probably best to actually take a look see and not completely trust your serial numbers. If I remember correctly from a while back that Aniwolfe's Electrons are serial #'s 35+36 and it was reported to me that there was also a 35-36 clone as well out there. I agree with so many that the original design is great to begin with and if you are uncomfortable with doing the upgrade,(if even necessary) then fortunately there are seemingly countless ways to work on improving your system. That is one of the beauties of this great hobby. LP |
That’s why I posted the video earlier to help with the questions about it in this thread. Eric posted on that youtube channel to have people call with the serial numbers. "Eric Alexander1 week ago Call us directly with your DI serial numbers in hand. " |
@grannyring Well just got off the phone with Eric (who was extremely pissy and rude I might add lol) and he explained that the DI’s are the only one’s that need the change. It is only for people with DI’s in smaller rooms. Apparently people are calling and bugging him about this (oh well too bad). I suggested to him maybe posting this on his blog, but he said, he doesn’t have the time. |
This is a suggestion, purely a suggestion..... Bill, your work with the Tekton Double Impacts has been fantastic and helpful to many. I certainly appreciate it and I'm sure many others do as well. Your posts, not only on the DIs, but also in other areas like the TDAI 2170, etc. have been educational to me and I continue to learn from your posts. Perhaps those looking to modify their Double Impacts and other Tekton Design speakers would be best served with a thread, with you as the OP, that is focused on Modding Tekton Speakers. As a Double Impact owner and now a DI SE owner, I sometimes have trouble keeping up with all the variations one can apply to these speakers. And more importantly, once modded what / which version / type of speaker are we really discussing? It gets difficult for me. Those new to the thread or those initiating their research of the Double Impacts may be overwhelmed and perhaps even confused. Again, this is a suggestion. These are open threads and members can do what they personally feel works best for them. Perhaps others can comment with their thoughts. |
@lpretiring. Thanks. My comments were in response to the Zero Fidelity video comments. This is really something every DI speaker owner should have in their speakers. We really enjoyed the result. The speaker was already great, this is just a nice little jump in musicality. While your at it upgrade those caps! Ha! |
@grannyring Bill, I think we have a very similar opinion on the influence this new resistor you brought to light has on the musical performance. I mentioned the bass because there is a slightly deeper response just due to the basic design differences of the two models. I now realize that was confusing in a post pertaining to the resistor upgrade. LP |
@treebeard1 Supposedly the change is tied to the SN#. You need to contact Tekton with the SN# and they will tell you. Here’s a video summary on the resistor change https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6IMgA8O8IQ |
Pertaining to this upgrade timeline, the Electrons I originally had I estimate were built between Sept. 29th and Oct. 4th. The D.I.'s I swapped them out for were built about Dec.15th. Performance besides the obvious extra lower octave, I noticed a smoother, more organic presentation, with a slightly deeper sound stage with the D.I.'s. Remembering a post by Eric where he made a statement similar to (people who have been on the fence about buying the D.I.'s now is the time) had me wondering at the time exactly why he made that statement. You can find Eric's post on this thread, page 74 dated 11-7-2017. FWIW based on this stuff my guess is the update was implemented somewhere in October 2017. LP |
@grannyring It also looks like https://www.hdplex.com/ has some interesting stuff that would work nicely. I found a way to shoot you a PM and have done so... it sure is not intuitive.... |
Hi JT. I was talking about making you a power cable and we can contact each other directly on that. Yes, your computer is not ideal and I think you already know that. Computer audio can sound amazing, but like great analog rigs ..... everything matters. A gaming/business computer is powerful but contains all kinds of additional processes and complexity in the operating system that just kills sound quality. In addition, a quality usb card from SOtM is really a plus with the Lyngdorf. Powering this SOtM card with a linear power supply is also recommended. You can get a good one from TeraDak for $130. Lastly, the products I mentioned from ifi are just wonderful and with a stripped down computer optimized for music only, you have a killer front end. I realize this is more than you can do, but just wanted to make you aware of options and learnings with the Lyngdorf and computer audio. I have a dedicated computer for music that runs Windows 10 Pro, but I greatly simplified/reduced the operating system processes and maximized the sound quality with software products from Fidelizer and Audiophile Optimizer. This with a nice SOtM usb card powered by a linear power supply, decent usb cable, and the iFi Micro usb 3 have turned my computer front end into a digital music making marvel. The difference is literally night and day compared to a standard computer only. All digital glare, nasties, noise, edginess etc....is gone. What is left is smooth analog like rendering of your ripped cd collection and Tidal streaming. |
@granny 1) work on the DI toe in. Try no toe in at all and then a very slight toe in. I mean the slightest wee bit of toe in. This should help. I have them facing straight into the room at present, the are brighter hen toed in, so I went with the with no toe. I have a computer I built some time back it’s a tower and hand picked parts, at the time, meant for gaming. I also have older ONEAC power conditioner, and dedicated 20amp circuit for the PC. Also, the entire house has surge suppression at the box. I have only stock AC cords everywhere. 3) More burn in time for the speakers and 2170. It’s playing right now and probably has about 80hrs on it, so far.
There’s a bit of issue here, as the computer is in the next room and the USB is going through the wall. I use the PC for general use too and it is in my office, and the speakers are in the dedicated listening room next store. This means I need a longer USB cable of 10ft. (Too long?) As for making me the cables, do you mean USB or AC or both? I am definitely interested in this. :)
I do have an Singxer SU-1 sitting here, but it’s not in that chain at the moment. I have found it good at the decrap role. YMMV. I also have an IFI Ican Pro for headphones as well. I guess I should start by putting the Singxer in the chain, but I do not believe it will cure the issue. I think I would like to start with the USB and power cords and also, try a different source as well.
Lemme know about the cables and I will order the speaker cable you linked too.
JT O�y� |
Grannyring, I could have sworn they sold the WE wire by the foot, but I just see 100' roll pricing now. They have pics of smaller runs so it might be possible to buy in smaller lengths. I too like the Duelund wire and if they come out with a 10 gauge I'll give it a try. As much as I liked the WE 14ga when I used it I prefer my Cerious Technologies GE speaker cables and I'm sure the larger gauge has a lot to do with it. Comparing the CT to Duelund 10ga would be interested. Thanks for the link of the wire connectors. Bare wire connections on the DI speaker posts isn't easy. |
You can use bare wire if your posts take them easily. On the amp end my 2170 has large holes in the posts that accept the 10 gauge wire nicely. On the speaker end the Cardas binding posts don’t have a hole and it is not easy or secure to wrap the thick wire around the posts so I use these... http://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/neotech-sk-8y-spade-p-2020 These are priced right and don’t require soldering. Set screws are used to secure the wire to the barrel and that is a good thing sonically. Solder does not sound as good! Sonic Craft also sells the Neotech banana versions which are also very good. They are synergistic with the wire and have a nice rich, warm, and natural tone. I usually prefer no connectors, but these seem to work well with the WE 10 gauge. |
@mofojo Yes you can but a couple of things to consider. - once you attach the clips you will have to put the driver back in place and be very sure that part and the clip does not come loose and short out! Oh my! - the clip will impart a sound and not for the positive. Just realize this. Not a big deal unless your me and have audio issues 😉 But seriously, the danger of a Short is a real concern and approach this carefully. Perhaps Blue Tac and zip tie or something to keep the part in place. Be sure the clips are not going to move or fall off. Can you run a thin set of wire leads out the cabinet with the mid driver in place ( not 100% tightened) and the resistor hanging outside the cab for quick removal and insertion into the circuit? Sure. Remember, the drivers have simple wood screws holding them in and the more you remove and tighten them to more you weaken the hold. All that a/b (ing) will take a toll. |
@mac48025. Seems like you have to order at least 100 feet. Wonder if this stuff is exactly the same as the NOS stuff? Interesting. I prefer the Duelund version of this wire as they do not use pvc. They only use natural fibers and oil. I think that makes a difference. In addition, the Duelund wire is Cryo treated. I use the NOS WE 10 gauge as Duelund does not make this thick gauge just yet. I have long speaker wire runs and want a heavy gauge. |
I forget which end of the crossover board you need to access. Was it towards the top or bottom of the array? I forget. Sorry. Remove the top or bottom midrange driver and take a quick look. Can you access the solder points without removing the board? Possibly if partially behind one of the midrange drivers. I think it is possible, but you will need surgeon like skills 😊 The board is hot glued and can be pried lose by using a stiff paint scraper etc...between the board and cabinet and slowly and carefully separating it from the cab from the lower midrange driver opening. The driver wires have some slack and you can now carefully move the board within the speaker and position it so you can access the resistor solder points through a mid driver cutout. Solder in the resistor and reapply some glue, liquid nails etc. behind the board and press back into position. Not easy, but it can be done carefully. |