You are talking about doing something one might have done fifteen years ago. A newer approach would be:
You could just rip them all to a USB drive or computer hard drive or Network accessible drive and create play lists. This was the contemporary way of doing things a long time ago.
But typically today you would subscribe to a music service like Qobuz, Tidal, or other music service and create playlists. You get access to nearly infinite music for an incredibly low cost… $9.99 - $12.99 / month often with higher quality sound.
|
I realize there are many options out there and I have access to some of those. But......I didn't want opinions of options. My questions were very basic.
|
I can suggest that you get EAC (Exact Audio Copy), a free download, for ripping your CDs. It’s the best free ripping software out there and has been for decades. I’m not so sure about burning software. Search for best free cd burning software and be careful that it doesn’t load a bunch of malware and other crap onto your computer when you download it.
I’ve used MAM-A, aka Mitsui, cd-rs They were made in the US last time I bought some and were considered high quality. I’ve also used Verbatim cd-rs and not had any problems with them. Avoid generics, cheap semi-generics and anything made by CMC.
|
I use a Melco N100 as a server and a Melco Optical Player as the ripper. You can save on that with a slight quality drop using dbPoweramp software and a generic optical ripper . Or get something like the Bluesound Vault to rip/store/play files
|
I use XLD for burning CD's (Verbatim) on a MacBook Pro. I am not sure if XLD is available for PC. It is free and has been very reliable over the years. For ripping, I use dbPoweramp, but XLD can also be used for ripping.
|
I was thinking 20 years.
Many people have found that they ripped their CDs to a lower resolution format and now realize their library is useless. I'm not sure if anti pirating software prevents copying the CDA files or not. I think what you want to do is copy the original CDA file to the new disc.
Recognize that file copying is different than streaming in that it uses error checking and will make an exact copy of the file so any computer can be used without any loss of resolution.
Jerry
|
Cheapest Disks you can find,
https://www.amazon.com/Smartbuy-Inkjet-Printable-Recordable-100-Disc/dp/B00KD11JW4/ref=sxin_16_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.ea7393e3-de5f-4d19-84a5-8c5fb5c68d5f%3Aamzn1.sym.ea7393e3-de5f-4d19-84a5-8c5fb5c68d5f&cv_ct_cx=blank%2Bcds%2Bwith%2Bcases&keywords=blank%2Bcds%2Bwith%2Bcases&pd_rd_i=B00KD11JW4&pd_rd_r=ef46326f-3a74-431d-9d97-83fe3c38ac9e&pd_rd_w=fVJHV&pd_rd_wg=dMLya&pf_rd_p=ea7393e3-de5f-4d19-84a5-8c5fb5c68d5f&pf_rd_r=JAYTQ2W495SXV8ZRQMDB&qid=1683465705&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sr=1-4-2b34d040-5c83-4b7f-ba01-15975dfb8828-spons&smid=AQDD1EODCLSQ8&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE3S1A0VlcxNFRJUFkmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA3ODM3NjE0UDYxMTRMUlJCRksmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDAxNTk1NzNBREFKMUgzMEtBOFImd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWMmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl&th=1
Note: how label? above disks can be hand written permanent marker, or printed on (check how/requirements, I never did that)
Case/paper sleeve? I use thin paper sleeves, my copies are mostly for the car or friends. write near the center so you can read the title thru the envelope's window.
I often copy the booklets, if so, copy at 90% size so you can trim and they fit in envelopes easily
have or get a second drive if you don’t have one, inexpensive external usb 3.0 work just fine. you want usb 3.0 (10 x faster than usb 2.0). note: two internal drives even faster.
https://www.amazon.com/Rioddas-External-Portable-Rewriter-Superdrive/dp/B07DLRG9VH/ref=sr_1_18_sspa?crid=20TK5ROJSIZWM&keywords=external+cd+drive+usb+3.0&qid=1683465120&sprefix=external+cd+drive+usb+3.0%2Caps%2C90&sr=8-18-spons&psc=1&smid=ASUOIJR9XH7JM&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzT1hQNVlHNkY5UTBIJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTE4NzIzMkxKQlQ4RkkxT1pRMSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDIzMTI1MzZBWUhIWDhYQ0tPQiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2J0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Now you want software that copies disk to disk without ripping first. Maintains full resolution, no compression.
I don’t like ripping, it’s a pain to copy twice, it may change to mp3, and I don’t want ’yearly subscriptions’ so I found and use Express Burn.
using free now, but I will probably buy $29.95 version
https://secure.nch.com.au/cgi-bin/register.exe?software=burn&ref=googleads&ref2=Cj0KCQjwmN2iBhCrARIsAG_G2i7e5zve8WfnebflBrfNS5bW1LctfgH0CmbxknG06YkBRIfWg1PiW98aAsfIEALw_wcB&ref3=express%20burn&refdate=1683464827&webvar=Burn.DownloadProgressBar3.Off%2CBurn.BurnAudioToBurnDVDs.Off%2CBurn.RemovePurchaseBtn.On%2CBurn.PurchaseButtonNsTrueStickyHdr.Off%2CBurn.TallerBlueBigHdrBG.On%2CBurn.BurnCDToCDBurnerKeyFeat.On%2CBurn.H1DownloadLink.Off%2CBurn.TopDivDldBtn.On%2CBurn.CrazyEggHoverStyle.On%2CBurn.NavBarTrialVersion.On%2CBurn.DldTxtDownloadTrialNSTrue.Off%2CAll.ShowCookieNoticeENOther.On
|
btw, when Nero was a one time purchase, I liked the way it worked better than this expressburn.
|
@jrpnde
I realize there are many options out there and I have access to some of those. But......I didn't want opinions of options. My questions were very basic.
More like Neolithic
|
+1 dePoweramp great ripping software.
|
I use Burrrn for PC. Nice freeware that'll burn anything to disc. I still like using my old Sony ES changer, has CD text and is lots of fun. I don't think media brand matters that much, have had success with TDK, Maxell, Memorex, and Verbatim. Just get whatever one has a good deal.
|
@jrpnde
CDs: I have used literally tens of thousands over the years of the Verbatim blank CDs. During that time I have had no more than 10 write failures and ZERO read failures.
Ripping/writing software/freeware: I use EAC (exact audio copy). for most of the aforementioned burns.
I have hundreds of these CDs I still play today in my Yamaha CD-S2000 and they play and sound excellent.
|
+1 for EAC for BOTH ripping & burning. My experience with new discs is over 99% of new discs rip perfectly with EAC. With used, it's still 90+%. I mostly just rip, but over the years have probably burned over a hundred discs with no problems.
If you're hard on CDs, you may end up wanting to spend a few bucks on dbpoweramp, which uses the same ripping software but has a better interface for dealing with tricky discs.
I think it's likely the documentation is better on the paid product, but trial & error will get you there. I rip the disc & save the cue file in the same folder. If you move the folder, you have to change the cue file (it's a text file - Notepad comes with Windows, no idea on iOS)
|
I believe that any program will do for writing. CDP adjusts laser power on special training track. Reading is more difficult. Advantage of ripping program over CDP playback is, that it can go over each sector multiple times (CDP reading in real time cannot do this).
As for honesty (I try to be), you need to have one copy that paid royalties to artists’ fund (RIAA) - for home use only. Technically you can copy your CD onto Audio CD-R (that paid royalties) and sell CD. If you use server (copy to HD) you need to have one legal copy at home (that paid royalties - like Audio CD-R). Reel to reel was free and legal, since manufacturers of tape paid tiny amount to RIAA per foot of sold tape.
|
I like CD Burner XP
Flac Files from Nugs has never sounded so good for me!
|
A system I’ve been using for over 20 years is using a CD recorder – an HHB machine out of the UK. I don’t think they make them anymore but I see used ones on E-Bay. The thing is that it is a pro-audio machine so that copyright features can be defeated. If you check pro-audio sources like Sweetwater, you’ll find CD recorders with the most recent technology. Like you, I only use it for personal use. I like to make copies of discs for my car or compliation discs copying only the tracks that I like from a commercially purchased CD. The sound quality of the copy is just as good as the original. Old school but it’s fun for me.
|
For tagging rips I've found MP3 Tag second to none. It doesn't add additional folders to your rips and you can use MusicBrainz for free and Discogs too if you register for free.
MP3 Tag is especially useful if you have an Aurender (or similar) because you can rename and re-configure rips on your SSDs.
Only 4 clicks to tag using MP3 Tag.
|
expressburn tech people want me to copy music from my internal hard drive to a blank CD using their software.
I'm baffled by Windows Media Player.
First: I want to copy a CD onto my hard dr1ve (because all amazon music is mp3's presumably compressed). I want full CD resolution 44k.
If a data CD, open CD, select all, drag to wherever I want, including a new folder I make, anywhere I want.
BUT, Audio CD's contents show up as track 1 to track 16, each track only 1kb (presumably a shortcut to a hidden file). I select all, copy to HD, all I get is shortcuts, no content.
Create a Playlist: I try, WTF, I cannot figure this WMP crap out!
|
Hi Jrpnde,
I agree 100 % on use of Exact Audio Copy to rip. Best software I have ever used and able to rip some pretty bad CDs (flea market and garage sale purchases !). Make sure rip is WAV, no compression or FLAC. I prefer WAV !
Rip to a good hard drive and make a backup (very important).
It then becomes super easy to copy to USB drive or to CD-R after. Can't however help on best CD-R software, sorry!
NOTE: It is not unlawful to make backups of your CD library (or vinyl) as long as you do not sell or distribute the copies and still have the originals.
|
|
+1 for Exact Audio Copy and also +1 for DB Poweramp. Both are really good, and for some people the fee is worth it to use DB Poweramp. Currently using EAC to rip my collection. Once you create the hi-res files just put them on any media you'd like, whether it be CD or USB drive, or whatever you choose.
|
I use good old Windows Media Player to rip and burn. This works fine for me although it may not be the 'best' it is easy and free. I still have a CD player in my SUV so I listen to copies there. Easy,peasy. BTW Win 10
|
|
The drive you use is very important. I use a Pioneer blue ray burner. They are the best. They also burn DVD and CD. Next I use Ashampoo burning studio. The latest version is 24 and it's not expensive. Next, you can use any brand of CDs. I use Maxell for music, but again you can use Sony, Verbatim, or any brand you like. Are you using a Mac or a Windows pc?
|
I used to use Winamp a long time ago for ripping CDs and burning mix CDs. In fact I still listen to those 15yo mix-CDs in my car. I recently began using JRiver for ripping CDs to FLAC for backup and purge purposes. I found Maxell & Verbatim CDRs to be the best for quality and longevity burns. If you have lots of CDs and want to manage playlists and such, JRiver will rip & burn so you're not having to venture into all of the problems you get w/ "free" software out there. And the cost for a standalone JRiver that updates automatically is nominal considering your time investment into this mix-CD hobby you have.
|
I appreciate all of the answers here. Not very familiar with some of the technology mentioned by many but I have another question about using the EAC program, which many recommend......
Most of the CD's I want to rip are original ones. But some are stored as MP3's. Some have recommended that, when ripping with EAC, burn them as WAV files vs MP3. Will MP3's converted to WAV's play on my player?
I will have to check my player's specs to see if it can play them. My player...NAD C546BEE. Sure, there are better players out there and I appreciate the input but I want to accomplish this task with my current setup.
Thanks
|
In my opinion, you can burn the MP3 CD's unchanged to the disc. No advantages to change them to WAV as MP3 is a lossy format. Most probably, your CD player will not play WAV files anyway.
From the manual:The C 546BEE can play MP3/WMA formatted recordings on CD-R or CD-RW discs. You may mix any of the file types on the disc.
Cheers, eagledriver
|
BDW, better tagging with MP3 than with WAV files.
|
i really agree with ghdprentice. That's the way to go - and then you can also make AAC copies for portability. If for some weird reason you also need physical copies, any ripping software works fine, just turn off compression. I have no idea on brands of writable CDs - except that back in th day when i did it they were never as reliable as the original (and when you think about the manufacturign process, it makes sense)
|
+ 1 with Styleman
I use two HHB 830+ recorders and have found the best dics for my machines are HHB discs. I use to use Mamm's, but started getting too many dud's. I realize my method is "old school", but for just making compilations of discs I already own, or creating new stuff from YouTube, this works for me.
|
