In my system there are 4 components that power cords are interchangeable. They are PrimaLuna EVO 100 Tube Preamplifier, PrimaLuna EVO 100 Tube DAC, Manley Chinook phonostage and Dayton Audio sa1000 subwoofer amplifier. Should they all be upgraded, if not all which one to change to give me the most improvements. I can't go crazy on cost, 1k to spend. I've followed along with many threads on this subject. Always looking to make improvements to sound quality. Many of you have much more experience with cables than I do so what do you recommend and I can do the research. On a side note my McIntosh MC75's are vintage so old thin manufacturer cables and probably shouldn't change them.
What do you think about upgrading the power cables for the MC75's? I know they are vintage but would really like to improve the whole system sound quality. I'd like to improve everything without buying new amps. So what are your opinions and how could it be done.
Read above. CHANGE them. The PS on Mac make them a lot less prone to bad cable. That is the reason they sound good with that dinky PC. Upgrade it, you might get a pleasant surprise. First thing on the list after a newbie arrives here. Listen, listen, listen, change the PC. Then listen. Hee Hee you'll like it..Not to expensive, great upgrade..
Humble advice from my limited experience: 1) Don't assume that the same power chord (brand, price point, level, etc...) will work equally well on all your components. Experiment with each one individually. 2) Using different cables on different pieces of equipment can create excellent overall synergy in a system. The effects of different cables can be additive. 3) Luna Cables make a very organic sounding inexpensive power cable (orange level) that you might like and that will fit your budget and might have good synergy with your equipment. 4) 20 amp dedicated power lines, using 8 or 10 gauge wire, with independent ground... an even more important move that good power cables. 5) I wouldn't spend my budget equally on all components. I'd look at $500-$1K cables and see if one of them really lights up the system when applied to a single component. Then I would supplement with slightly improved placeholders for other components. 6) Which component is most important is very system dependent. I never had better results from a power cable than one that was put on a pre-amplifier. On another system it was the DAC that was most affected. I've actually found that power amps have been the easiest to improve (or settle into a good zone) with less expensive cables. YMMV
Dude, these are the basics. 1. You need sufficient gauge. 2. Good quality termination (ie strong set-screw contact). 3 Decent materials. Copper or silver (don't get distracted by 'nines' or other snake oil). 4. They really should be flexible. There is truly no excuse for for the inflexible cables.
I had great luck with Anticables. The change was immediate and obvious. Start with source, DAC, or pre. If you aren't happy with them send them back for full, no questions refund.
andrei_nz134 posts03-05-2020 9:56pmDude, these are the basics. 1. You need sufficient gauge. 2. Good quality termination (ie strong set-screw contact). 3 Decent materials. Copper or silver (don't get distracted by 'nines' or other snake oil). 4. They really should be flexible. There is truly no excuse for for the inflexible cables.
I just saw cables that have all types of materials used in construction, they are not flexible, they are expensive, they work VERY well.
What is "nines"? Like dressed to the nines?
If you think about WHY cable is flexible, it is because of the LOOSE weave, size of the conductor and the flexibility of the jacket(s).
Why should it be flexible, like in car audio, WHY. The conductors are large, and very flexible. ALU clad wire, most of it. Other than easy install, there is no reason. Home is another, WHY? Again it doesn't have to be. I've seen a few systems hardwired with LONG runs. Amazing sound, solid conductor silver wire (romex like), and valve amps..
There you go...now you have cords that equal the best wiring you have in your house that feeds your gear (12 AWG Romex if you are lucky into a 20Amp circuit; you may only have 14AWG into a 15 Amp circuit). Numbers I referenceed are for USA wiring. International 220V wiring may vary, but nevertheless the concept is similar: The fallacy that a magical cord in the last 6 to 10 feet from your wall outlet to your gear will make an audible difference is...snake oil. Make your component cords the same AWG as your circuit and you have done the best you can.
Now I'm really going to start a fight. These are fine too if you don't want to build anything. These likely will equal or exceed your building's wiring capability. No expensive cable will sound any better than these. The laws of physics defy anything to the contrary unless you are no-kidding running a 10 gauge or larger circuit to your gear:
Also...your best bet is to spend your money on a dedicated circuit for your audio gear - that will get noisy things like fluoresecent lights and vacuum cleaners and hairdryers off your "audio only" circuits. Also consider a power conditioner that will kill any line noise and break ground loops. I run PanaMax.
Any high quality Green Dot Hospital grade cord will do a very good job. The Pangea's are also a great bang for the buck. With power cords you start running into the law of diminishing returns very quickly...
My 30 buck Jelly Fish Green Dot is way better then the $200 Patrick Cullen AC cable it replaced....
Also what is everything plugged into. Upgrading Hubble outlets to Hospital grade or better is also a huge help.
You can always go Battery power/DC if you really want to spend money....
A shout-out to roberjerman. You have a very limited knowledge of high-fidelity components,and cables.Remember,your system is only as good as it's weakest link.If you say power cords are just like expensive jewlery,then I guess we know where your weakest link is!
After doing a comprehensive re-capping job, I just upgraded the power cable of my McIntosh MC240 by purchasing a Transparent Hardwired 2-prong ($75.00), clipping off the inlet plug, stripping, tinning (silver solder) removing the strain relief, desoldering the original cable, replacing the strain relief with an appropriate size rubber grommet, and attaching the new cable. To prevent strain on the connection, I fixed a nylon wire tie tightly just behind the grommet. Voila! Way better than the old stock cable. I also put in an on/off switch.
Power cords are by far the biggest waste of money you can add to your system!!! I know., I have experience with a few on marantz and parasound gear and it’s snake oil at best
The best $1000 I spent on power was purchasing a Core Power Technologies Equi=Core 1800. Made a huge difference in the clarity and dynamics of my system. More so than any of my many cable changes. Just my experience.
Question, why would someone buy an expensive power conditioner for a power cord that’s probably not in the correct direction, directionality wise? What are the odds? Gotta be two to one. The more you know the cheaper you fly.
i got this far then tossed everything down and said F. it . Someone said,,, Skip the sub. I would also skip the DAC because there is sadly no way of making digital sound good so why bother? Vodka drinker
Just a thought. You don't have to do them all at once. I started off purchasing one power cord... priced around $300. Later I purchased one for $600. WAY better. Now with new better cord on Source... place other one down stream. I purchased another one for $600, and was going to be happy with a couple more of these. Then... a friend was upgrading and brought over his pc's for sale. I put it on source and it blew the $600 one away. They were close to 2k each and I payed $800 each. I purchased all three. So... as/if you purchase better pc's along the way, just move the cheaper one down the line. You could use the cheapest one on the sub.
oldhvymec150 posts03-01-2020 1:51pmI ran 4 separate 20 amp runs with extra heavy wire into two hospital grade 20 amp double outlets. Looking back I wish I would have run three of them.
You might already have it, Any larger than 12 would have moved it to 25 or 30 amp, Still a single run, but man oh man, what are running, LOL 20s are 2400 watt continues right.. so 4 is real close to 10000 watt continues. I run 3 20 in the house sound room, and 4 15, in the shop, both stereo rich environments. Both can and will exceed 145 db, with a very low THD...Glass is taped in the shop when I'm tinkerin' for sure. Yup Yup..
Owned a lot of cables and PC’s...results are always system dependent and subjective but for extreme performance and reasonable pricing I would recommend Anticables. Super guys to work with and easy 30 day trial with free returns!
Many parts add up to the whole of your delivered sound.
Room dynamics (If the room is poor there’s only so much tweaking the rest can do) I’ve heard great sound from moderate gear in a stellar room and average to poor sound in a poor room from Cadillac gear.
Equipment
Source
Speakers (and placement)
Power (poor where I live and a AudioQuest Niagara helped a lot..did it ever)
The entire Wiring Harness. I think of the Wiring harness as a critical part of the equipment too (from the wall outlet out or in the wall if possible.) That two dollar outlet should be tossed and replaced.
Any 8-12 gauge shielded cords, heavy wires with robust male/female plugs for your power cords are better than an 16/18 gage fifty cent cord. Same goes for speaker wiring. In other words (even far lower cost) beefier wiring makes a difference! My two best cables are the ones into the power conditioner and into the tube integrated. Gains are a big can of worms debated ad infinitum.
I have a "B" system and got some inexpensive Laspada audio (discounted on ebay too) and what a difference that made. Seriously.
Dimora has it exactly right: A $5,000 power cord is limited by your house wiring, no matter what claims might be made by the manufacturer. A case could be made for ultra-expensive cords if; and only if, you run them all back to a dedicated power panel, connected directly to the drop lines from the street to your house. Even then, utility AC power can often leave much to be desired in terms of stability and line noise. If you live in a condo or apartment then you’re out of luck in that regard. A much better idea is build your own cords as Dimora suggests, use hospital grade plugs; change the wall outlets to hospital grade; and, if you own your place, run a dedicated circuit for your system inside metal electrical conduit or copper mesh sleeving (conduit probably both better and cheaper) grounded at the panel end for noise shielding; and above all, invest in a good power conditioner.
A $5,000 power cord is limited by your house wiring, no matter what claims might be made by the manufacturer.
That’s an interesting claim. Have you ever tried a premium power cord? Or, are you so convinced that it wouldn’t make a difference that you allow your expectation bias to prevent you from experimenting?
Expectation bias can be a very powerful thing, especially for those who think "reason" makes them immune.
After owning far too many uber expensive cables...more is definitely not always better. For power cords that is most evident. Results will vary with equipment used of course, but $ don’t equal 😁
I have a question/request.....those with extreme voodoo opinions/statements re power cords, fuses, cables, only @ full moon hi rez uploads, wooden blocks under cables (not env.friendly, you know that?), etc etc....so, pls tell me that in your professional lives you do not fly commercial planes, do not perform medical surgeries, you are not neuro surgeons, operators of NORAD stations, financial advisers (actually, I pass this one...), school bus drivers, operators of heavy eq., nuclear plant operators...etc etc...pls say - you are not...otherwise our society is in a great risk of a total collapse... Thank you
want some some more: always use: 'fast power cables' 'speaker cables that PRODUCE warm sound' 'fuses that substantially increase 3d imaging'....and so on and so on..
I came here to find out about Fyne F703 speakers...thinking that maybe on this forum someone had them...and then of course I discovered, as on many other forums, a niche of users that got me worried as per above message...and for you this is not a thoughtful statement?
I recently picked up a pair of Synthetic Research master coupler power cables from AudiogoN. I will be using them on my preamplifier and phonostage, my analog setup is the most used. Will update when I get them and have had a chance to listen with them installed.
Have to be honest with you I wasn't sure the power cables were going make more than a subtle difference. I have been listening all day with the new cables and am astounded at the improvement. It really shows up in quieter jazz albums, I can hear so much more I guess this is what lowering the noise floor sounds like. I've gone the tuning fuse route and that made a huge improvement. I guess until I've tried it's not snake oil.
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