Fuses

@gererick I would go that route for sure. Good quality caps installed in a parallel configuration would work very well  👍

Thanks!  Yes, it is currently a single capacitor but I may end up using multiple caps to get to 220 uF (like you did to get to 115.8 uF).

Sounds like it is a single capacitor? If it is, you can just bypass it normally. Make sure that on the bypass capacitor the outer lead is connected to the side between the resistor and the capacitor. (Duelund bypass capacitors have directionality)

From Duelund "The outer lead out, closest to the edge of the capacitor, is connected to the outer foil and as such should be connected to the lowest impedance path to ground, generally the signal output."

Your signal is going out towards the driver, So Negative, to capacitor, to resistor.---> That is the direction of the signal, output is from capacitor to resistor, input is negative to capacitor.

Hope that makes sense.

Yuviarora, thanks for your reply.  If I understand the drawing correctly, my positive comes in from the amp, goes through an inductor, then heads toward the drivers. On its way to the drivers, there is a junction where a wire goes from the positive to the negative.  On its way to the negative, there is a resistor and then a capacitor and then the negative wire.  In that instance, what is closest and furthest from the signal output?  (Sorry for my layman’s description)

Also to add:

I can’t tell you if 1uf would be a better value to use in my case either, I haven’t tried a capacitor that big, but I am sure others can guide you in that regard.

I wonder if anyone has bypassed the bypass? :) Tinned Copper and Silver foil together?

@gererick the 115.8uf capacitors are parallel capacitors installed as (3x)33uf+(1)10uf+(1)6.8uf Mundorf Supreme evo oils, all adding up to 115.8uf.

I first installed the .01uf foils at the furthest point away from signal output, and they completely muddled up the sound, they just sounded bad.

After taking them out I reinstalled them on a whim, but this time around I moved them to the front position, so they were in the closest position to the signal output, and my audio image just instantly snapped into focus.

It was like going from 1080p to 4k. (I am still going through burn-in, and they haven’t settled in completely as of yet).

I don’t know how a value as small as .01uf can have such a difference in my application, but it did, and they are staying in for good.

If you have the bypass capacitors on hand, try them out, you can find out for yourself if they work for you. They are pretty easy to take back out if you do not like what you are hearing.

I am bypassing both my tweeter caps 10uf, and mids 115.8ufs.

Yuviarora, found you over here on this thread.  I am in the planning stage of a crossover upgrade (sorry to be off-topic from fuses; mine are all Synergistic Orange).  My largest cap is 220 uF and next largest is 13 uF.  You sound very pleased with a .01 uF value bypassing a 115.8 uF cap, correct?  You mentioned having initially tried them in the wrong position, which I didn’t follow.  When you tried a higher value bypass cap, was it in the ideal position?  As I understand it, a good value bypass cap for a 115.8 uF cap is in the 1% range or 1 uF.  I have several .01 uF Duelund silver foil caps, but hesitate to try them with much larger value caps until hearing the experience you described.

And I am definitely getting my 20.7s before the zombie apocalypse starts :)

The .01uf Tinned copper has been an absolute revelation.

I was up till 7 in the morning listening to album after album, non stop.

Everything sounded like I was hearing it for the very first time..... I am dumbfounded by how much of a difference these little capacitors made in my setup.....just dumbfounded.

Burn in has been especially crazy, at one point the sound lost all color, I have never experienced that before...and it came back after a while, and the sound became so incredibly liquid, and the soundstage became the most holographic I have heard on a speaker as of yet. Sadly that phase only lasted for a few hours, and I am hoping maybe they settle in eventually something close to that.

But either way, the clarity, coherency, and timbre are just exceptional.

This experience has convinced me, when I get my Magnepan 20.7s, I am building my whole crossover with just Duelund capacitors. Not settling for anything else. 

Yep, the Duelund .01uf on crossover caps is a wonderful thing, I use the silver foil on Jupiter VT. I use same as bypass on my custom built 300B amps power supply to good effect. I've never bypassed coupling cap, never felt the need to experiment here.

So I installed the other .01uf Tinned Cooper Duelund on the mids capacitors, 115.8uf. The mistake i made the first time around was installing them at the furthest point away from signal output, after reinstalling them in the 1st position, they also sound amazing. 

Resolution, timbre, coherency, and soundstage all saw quite amazing improvements. My speaker system was absolutely nothing to sneeze at before the installation, but these have been a a extremely nice surprise. 

I am now solidly in the camp of bypassing crossover caps with small foil types 🙏 Sorry George. 

I still have 100's of hours before they fully settle in, can't wait to hear the final end result. 

^^^ That's what I was thinking, Tommy. A much nicer place without him for sure.

Looks like George has been given another time out?

I am going to have TG send me a QSA Violet fuse to a B with a purple.

I, for one, don’t trust one of the members here that they actually even have a violet fuse to compare with a SR purple.

CD, you hear me?

Finally found the block feature 🙏

I am very surprised how much of a difference that these little bypass capacitors made.... makes me want to get the 10uf full size tinned copper capacitors from Duelund.

These things are amazing.

I'll save those for my Magnepan 20.7s  🎅

Well that's better than eatin' bugs.. :-)

You know you don't have to accept the gift my friend, return it to the giver. Pretty simple.. If he is really bugging you let admen know to give him a chat. I've never had to but I suppose there is a place and a time..

Regards

Correction. I only have them bypassing the tweeter cap. 

They sound very very good :)

@millercarbon and @oldhvymec So I reinstalled the bypass capacitors.....and they sound incredible. Sorry 🙏🙏 I was too quick to judge them....they sound open, crystal clear, and wonderful in both position on my speakers.

Just needed a bit of burn in time.

The Tinned Copper bypass capacitors have a wonderful tone, all the microdetails are still here... I'll add in more impressions after I get some solid listening time with these. 

There is no ideal power transformer with perfect magnetic coupling  and no leakage flux. So the impedance will be always higher than winding resistance. No one would want to add more resistance to what is already there in order to keep the impedance of the secondary winding and the power supply as low as possible. Impedance is the current limiting characteristic of a transformer. If the amp needs a lot of current to drive a speaker load it will be audible if the impedance is high.

A fuse on the other hand has to be a resistive load if the current in the power supply rises in order to operate as a fuse in case of failure . That will be audible if the amp has to drive demanding speakers at high volumes or dynamic peaks. This shouldn’t affect class A amps but definitely class A/B designs.

So how would different material of the fuse wire which has to be a resistive load by design (gets hot and burns up if it reaches its breaking point) influence the SQ?

A piece of wire that would not increase the impedance of the transformer would be the only logical solution in order to avoid these current limiting effects. But then it’s no longer a fuse.

How does this all fit together with those expensive fuses? Any explanation?

Okay.....soooo I am in the camp of not bypassing signal capacitors. At least in my application, they caused issues in both positions.
Sound got smeared in the mids, and the timbre change in the tweeter position came with a similar smudging of sound. The bypass capacitors really affected transparency in my system, and affected depth of stage.
I only had them in for 3 or so hours, but I didn’t enjoy any part of this installation and have taken them back out.
@georgehifi you were right, at least as it happens to be the case in my application.
I am now in the camp for installing the single best possible quality cap that you can use in the signal path.

MC makes some simple mistakes like series and parallel resistors... 

The Fuse not exploding in my face is a win to say the least :) 

Currently I have 1 uF Clarity MR caps, bypassed with .01 Jupiter Copper Foils (into 100000 ohm impedance), I added the Jupiter bypass as an experiment to see if the more expensive caps make a difference, and they do.
So now I have to decide what way to go forward, I have a strong belief that bypassing coupling caps is a bad idea, as the two capacitors will have a time difference, and so signal passing through one cap will be phase differentiated from signal passing through the other cap, right?

Therefore: perhaps it is better to have a single high quality cap at 1 uF and no bypass at all? Is 1 uF really big enough (into 100000 ohms) or do I really need a bigger cap to be sure deep bass remains in phase?

Sorry George,
I can’t take anything you say seriously. You have blown all your credibility

Sorry George,
I can’t take anything you say seriously. You have blown all your credibility with me, and at this point I am more inclined to thinking that bypassing capacitors is a good idea just because you stand so vehemently against it.