Okay.....soooo I am in the camp of not bypassing signal capacitors. At least in my application, they caused issues in both positions.
Sound got smeared in the mids, and the timbre change in the tweeter position came with a similar smudging of sound. The bypass capacitors really affected transparency in my system, and affected depth of stage.
I only had them in for 3 or so hours, but I didn’t enjoy any part of this installation and have taken them back out.
@georgehifi you were right, at least as it happens to be the case in my application.
I am now in the camp for installing the single best possible quality cap that you can use in the signal path.
👍 Correct, never bypass "coupling caps" in the signal path. This goes for all audio equipment even speakers xovers. But it’s good to bypass "de-coupling caps" in power supply or on voltage rails. Cheers George |
Well all I can say to you is, forest and trees, you can twist it to suit yourself, and that will be your problem then, and no one else’s.
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Fine, I'm hoping what I’ve said helps others trying to do the same. As I've said it many times on Audiogon.
Cheers George
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Can’t see the forest for the trees??? If you don’t believe me. Believe this, someone from Audiocircle who tried by-passing a quality cap in the single path (also known as a coupling cap) to see what he got, and there’s many more articles to read about it on the net if you bother to search, and a well known one it by Doug Self in his book. Currently I have 1 uF Clarity MR caps, bypassed with .01 Jupiter Copper Foils (into 100000 ohm impedance), I added the Jupiter bypass as an experiment to see if the more expensive caps make a difference, and they do.
So now I have to decide what way to go forward, I have a strong belief that bypassing coupling caps is a bad idea, as the two capacitors will have a time difference, and so signal passing through one cap will be phase differentiated from signal passing through the other cap, right?
Therefore: perhaps it is better to have a single high quality cap at 1 uF and no bypass at all? Is 1 uF really big enough (into 100000 ohms) or do I really need a bigger cap to be sure deep bass remains in phase? (1uf into 100kohms (100,000ohms) is fine as it’s -3db at 1.5hz) Like I said some just don’t want to believe, they just want to believe their own dreams and don’t want them shattered or take anything in that questions it. Cheers George |
Sorry George,
I can’t take anything you say seriously. You have blown all your credibility with me, and at this point I am more inclined to thinking that bypassing capacitors is a good idea just because you stand so vehemently against it.
Don’t be sorry, it’s obvious from that reply, that you have no idea, don’t wish to know what’s correct, and only hope what your dreaming up will come true. Check out any hi-end equipment, amps or speakers, dacs, phono stages etc etc any sources and SEE IF ANY CAPS IN THE SIGNAL PATH are by-passed with another different cap. And you’ll find the answer is no, as to use 2 different time constant components in parallel in the signal path will only create distortion/smearing of the signal. The only time this will not happen is if both caps are identical in all parameters, make, voltage and uf. And you won’t get anyone here that knows what’s what, saying anything other than that. Good luck🙏 |
Told you already, any one that says it a good idea, has no idea.
By-passing powersupply or voltage rail caps is a good idea, but it’s not a good idea to bypass caps that are in the signal path as they will have different time constants, and smear at frequencies where they are both doing work.
Alway use the best quality "single cap" in the signal path.
Cheers George
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The best fuse is no fuse, we already know this, but most equipment does not allow for the installation of breakers (and breakers also have their issues) This is not a breaker it takes the place of the fuse with a solid brass rod (No fuse then). just like bypassing the fuse altogether. Best you can get by your views for a couple of dollars🤦♂️ https://ibb.co/KqV3hNb
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amtprod12 posts
georgehifi thank you for the info! I was -just- about to ask someone with electrical circuit engineering/design formal knowledge to explain how a fuse in audio equipment works, is used, and what/how it could flavor the sonic quality of the other components in the piece of kit. Yes things do change the sound "IN" a piece of kit on the dc side of things. But an ac mains fuse is not "IN" the piece of kit it’s in the ac mains supply just like like the fuse in your fuse box. If you truly believe that a $$$$$ ac mains fuse of your amp can be better than a standard one, then no fuse at all would be the best, correct??? Then use one of these in place of your fuse for just a test instead of spending $$$ on snake oil fuses, and see what it sounds like compared to the normal fuse, as it’s solid brass fuse buss bar just like no fuse at all for tech testing. https://ibb.co/KqV3hNbCheers George |
yes and you are and good luck with it. 🙏 |
jasonbourne521,165 posts10-20-2021 12:40pmCurrent draw only comes from the power supply caps. That is why they are located at that place in an electronic circuit. The heating/cooling cycle of a fuse has zero effect on the ability of the PS caps to deliver current. A fuse is not a volume control! Report thisjasonbourne521,165 posts10-20-2021 12:45pmYou fusers are drinking too much moonshine or smoking too much ganja! +1 on that jason, if they can't see the reference to the dam (pp caps) water tap (amp) they are just lost to voodoo and snake oil. Cheers George |
Many of you don’t know what a fuse does.
The AC mains fuse is supplying mains voltage to a transformer, which then supplies lower AC voltage to the AC to DC recifcation diodes, this DC is then is sent to the voltage storage capacitor banks. And the amplifer then draws it’s DC power to work with from that storage bank of capacitors, which if designed right don’t ever run out of storage.
EG: Try to look at it this way.
Your using you home water tap (amplifer) from a dam (Capacitor storage banks) of water which never runs dry.
Your home tap does’nt give a ratz, if the clouds that supply the rain to the river that fills the dam, is raining or not, so long as the dam has water in it, the tap is doing it’s best an happy.
Cheers George |
"250 dollars for a fuse is kind of outrageous,..." Ditto, it’s fuse wire, if not then it’s a hoax and could be dangerouse, all that's needed, is to make sure the fuse and holder are in good condition. AGEING FUSE MAINTENANCE: 1: “Just re-new your fuse with the same amperage if it’s old and has seen many turn on cycles, with a quality one like Bussman or Littlefuse. 2: And clean the cradle fuse contacts and maybe squeeze them in a little for a tighter fit. And definitely don’t be sucked into any $$$ boutique hifi fuses 3: Just change the fuse if old for a quality brand EE industry standard 50c fuse, as fuses (even the $$$ boutique ones) also age after many turn on cycle surges.” 4: And there is definitely no such thing as direction with an AC mains fuse. This is what happens to all fuses, even the $$$ ones, when the’ve seen many turn on cycles Same quick blow fuse ageing https://ibb.co/SyyVR6P Same slow blow fuse ageing https://ibb.co/hKNfZ8rCheers George |
Quick question, what is your guy’s experience with bypassing caps?
Does it add anything to sound? or just smear it, and cause coherency issues?
By-passing powersupply or voltage rail caps is a good idea, but it’s not a good idea to bypass caps that are in the signal path as they will have different time constants, and smear at frequencies where they are both doing work. Alway use the best quality "single cap" in the signal path. Cheers George |
