I have made up my mind about this brand not just this amplifier. To answer to @cleeds I have done only one outlet that does not meet NEC standards which was un-installed completely and is no longer in existence and everything else is back to normal, but the amp is still buzzing. The amp buzz has nothing to do with what I have done with the electrical it just cost me money that’s all, money can be made but the experience I’ve had so far with this brand alone is unforgettable and was unpleasant. After spending so much money and not even one phone call was made back to me that should tell you something.
The amp just sits in the corner collecting dust and if you wanna buy it it’s yours for $5K |
Are there any repairmen who specialize in Mac's?
I can see the OP's reluctance to send into McIntosh, all they are going to do is open the box and slap a label on it saying it is okay.
Though it would cost some money having someone look at it, at least you know if it, indeed, has a problem. And, using that information tell McIntosh. Who knows? They might find the issue and repair it.
B |
jetterBelieve me we are with you in hoping this all get sorted out Agreed! That's why I think this guy should return the amplifier to Mac for evaluation.
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Why won’t
tomiiv
return his amplifier to McIntosh for warranty repair? Because it would cost me more money to do so, I have to pay for shipping both ways which is not cheap, and I am not planning to spend a cent more because I am pretty sure nothing would get done. It looks like you’ve made up your mind to be unhappy, rather than to seek resolution. It appears that the only money you’ve spent on this so far was for electrical work performed by an unqualified contractor that was hazardous and did not meet NEC. |
Believe me we are with you in hoping this all get sorted out. |
I think cleeds is right about sending the amp to McIntosh to be checked out so you at least have a record with them of attempting to fix the problem. I am assuming you only would be paying for shipping as the unit is under warranty? Take this with a grain of salt as I haven't had a similar problem, but I would have expected a good dealer to send it for warranty work whether they could hear the problem or not. You have the you tube video as proof of the hum. |
@cleeds
It still isn't clear why you don't simply return the amp to McIntosh for evaluation and (hopefully) repair Because it would cost me more money to do so, I have to pay for shipping both ways which is not cheap, and I am not planning to spend a cent more because I am pretty sure nothing would get done. |
tomiiv30 Why do you want to know so bad who the dealer is, I don't get it ... You've stated that, "no one from the dealer or the manufacturer cared to find a solution to my problem," so it's reasonable to ask who the dealer is.
the manufacturer should've jumped in and try to help me
It still isn't clear why you don't simply
return the amp to McIntosh for evaluation and (hopefully) repair.
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@cleeds
Let me get this straight with you, if this amp worked at the dealer place in their tech department and it was dead quite, what case do I have against them or the manufacturer at that point?
So even if I shipped it to MC for warranty repair the same thing would happen at their place to and would say repair is not needed because amp is working properly and there is no buzz.
I demanded that the dealer send somebody to my house or have the dealer contact MC to send somebody out to at least hear this amp’s buzz at my house because in their eyes it looked like I was bullS with them. I still have the amp and it still has that loud buzz and if any of them want to come out to my place to check it out they are more than welcome. So far nobody has reached out to me to make a visit to hear their product not working as it should.
Let's see if they are going to do that |
@cleeds
Why do you want to know so bad who the dealer is, I don't get it. What can the dealer do more, I took the amp to them they plugged it in and it was dead quite, what else do you expect to dealer to do. They don't have to do anything else. Now if they cared more about their customers or me as an example they should have went the extra mile to try to help with this situation but they decided that they should not do anything\ but that doesn't mean they did something wrong to me.
On the other hand the manufacturer should've jumped in and try to help me and the dealer as to why is this happening, what can be done, they should've trained the dealer more on how to deal with this kind of situations etc.
Another thing is this amp works there is nothing wrong as far as the output or whatever else, the problem is with the transformer's buzz and this is something that only the manufacturer can fix not the dealer.
I do not want to cause the dealer any harm because I feel that they have not done anything wrong to where I need to bash their name. Even though I was not happy of how they dealt with me I feel that is not enough to put their name in the open forum. |
tomiiv30 When the dealer and the manufacturer do not give a flying F
about their customer ... Who's the dealer?
what else can a customer do except keep the amp
... You could return the amp to McIntosh for evaluation and (hopefully) repair.
I am no planning to
repeat myself again everything is noted in this thread Who's the dealer?
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@cleeds
But no one from the dealer or the manufacturer cared to find a solution to my problem that many others are having too, so it is not just me.
What good the warranty gonna do for me, except drain more money out of my pocket for shipping both ways to come to find out to be told that amp is working properly and they would not do anything else.
And if somebody is deleting posts from my thread than it is the moderators and not me, and if that's the case than you know they have been paid off by MC to do so.
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@cleeds
What are you talking about, what have I deleted from this thread, everything that I have posted is still here and I have not disappeared I am still here but have nothing else to add to it, I am keeping the amp as is and I will never ever buy another McIntosh product in my life, simple as that.
When the dealer and the manufacturer do not give a flying F about their customer, what else can a customer do except keep the amp because like I said before this amp when I took it to the dealer and once they plugged it in their outlet it was dead quite, why is it buzzing at my house and at my friend's I have no idea, all I was told is that I have or we have bad electricity that's all, I am no planning to repeat myself again everything is noted in this thread if you want to find out more please read the whole thing. |
audioman58That is total BS ... that is a defect in the unit period ... they should take the unit back and fix the dam
thing ... Their integrity is not what it used to be ... I agree that there’s nonsense going on here - the facts just do not add up. The OP has deleted his original post here about the problems and disappeared from this forum and the other forum where he raised these issues. He won’t identify his dealer - even though the dealer doesn’t seem to have been very helpful in resolving the problem - and he has refused to return the unit to McIntosh for evaluation. So it’s really impossible to know what’s going on. There transformers used to be made in California ...
They’ve always been hand-wound in Binghamton, afaik. |
That is total BS,especially after bringing to another persons house
that is a defect in the unit period.
i sold McIntosh and they should take the unit back and fix the dam
thing. Take it over one more persons house , if still an issue you know they are full of crap. Their integrity is not what it used to be
I have found a lot of parts in there that a $6k amp should not have
$3.00 Wilma caps instead of aa much higher caliber type as well as resistors ,even dipping more into Chinese parts . There transformers used to be made in California , that changed in 2010
where are they Built now ? . Is it still under warranty ? If so send it back, your dealer should be backing you ,try a different power cord just to make sure a ground didnot seperate, i Never had one do as you mentioned. If not in warranty bring to a technician to get a evaluation it sounds totally out of line . One more thing
did you change anything ? Put another amp in Your system
and if no issue then it is your amp.
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@ tomiiv30 OP I think the reason the DC blocker you got may not be working correctly is because it doesn’t have a large enough ampere rating. Does it give an, ampere rating on it anywhere? I believe you are going to need one that is made for a big power amp. There is an Agon member that used to build DC blockers. I will see if I can find his user name. |
And they do (Mc) read the forums and it sucks that not one of them made a contact with me to find a solution to the known problem. They were very quick to throw the ball at me saying that I have electricity problem (to which they never came to the house to test for it) and that I should deal with it, and that was the last thing I heard from them. And all they did was to tell me that I need a DC blocker to which I replied "Where do I buy one" and their reply "Search The Internet". Not even a direction to where I can buy one but they know that I need one. To my eyes they are all bunch clowns. |
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"Probably most manufactures that use fairly large toroid transformers, in their equipment, install a DC blocker. McIntosh does not."
That is what galls me the most. I own a lot of McIntosh equipment and am very happy, but it really galls me that they couldn't add a DC noise blocker inside their amps with the large to largest Toroidal transformers. IMHO, 5 customers a year is 5 too many customers. I have been thinking of trading in my MC152 amp purchasing a MC462 amp but this buzzing sound really has me take pause.
I feel McIntosh is doing a big disservice to their customers by not adding the DC blocker, or adding one to the OP unit to make the customer whole. The OP has a lot of money tied up in his amp to NOT use it because of the noise.
I have dealt with our local electric company in the past and it is like pulling teeth to get any kind of satisfaction. It took over 6 months for me to convince them that there was a power transformer across the street from my house and that the grid could easily support a 200 amp service for me. I had to take pictures from every angle and go to a meeting with them to show there was a transformer there. All they really had to do was go to my house and look across the street at the pole! The OP would be fighting a losing battle with his electric co. All they really car about is if you have power and is it safe, nothing more.
In conclusion to my rant, McIntosh should do something for this person at their cost.
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clearthink607 posts01-24-2019 10:50am
If the claim that the amplifier was defective was valid, authentic, and genuine then why wouldn’t this person who came hear only to complain return the unit to McIntosh for repair, adjustment, or replacement and why wouldn’t he name the dealer who sold him this defective, damaged, or inferior unit? The unit IS NOT defective, When the OP took the amp to the dealer it was taken to the service department. There it was plugged in, turned on, and the torid transformer did not buzz/vibrate. The OP said the torid transformer was quiet. The OP was in the room during the test. Again, the torid DID NOT buzz/vibrate. It was quiet. So what good would it do to send the amp back to the factory? The amp is not defective. It works as it was built to function. If the consumer has DC offset on his AC mains the torid transformer will buzz/vibrate. The more DC on the mains the louder the buzz. Should the manufacturer have incorporated a DC blocker on the line side of the torid transformer? Yes. But the manufacturer chose to save a few bucks. Ron, a McIntosh representative, said they get maybe 5 complaints a year about mechanically buzzing torids. His advice to fix the CUSTOMER’S PROBLEM is to buy a DC blocker. Probably most manufactures that use fairly large torid transformers, in their equipment, install a DC blocker. McIntosh does not. . |
If the claim that the amplifier was defective was valid, authentic, and genuine then why wouldn’t this person who came hear only to complain return the unit to McIntosh for repair, adjustment, or replacement and why wouldn’t he name the dealer who sold him this defective, damaged, or inferior unit?
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Try adding large paper/oil caps in series with one of the AC line wires, the type used for running AC motors and compressors, to see if it removes the hum. If does not resolve the problem the toroid could have enough of a magnetic field to excite some nearby ferrous object. Most likely the extremely toroid has shaken loose in shipping and/or is misaligned. Check the center mounting bolt for torque.
If it really is a DC issue, then you could look up some ultraisolation transformer.
I doubt you are using much the 5KVA of the transformer. Check the efficiency rating of your speaker and measure SPL one meter from your speakers and estimate how much power you are actually using. You can also plug in a Killawatt meter from Home Depot and measure power draw. This will help find a rating for an isolation transformer.
As the problem appears with no output very little power is used.
90 dB SPL average is more than my ears can tolerate and with 90dB 1W speakers very little average power is actually used. 20 dB peaks will be at 100W.
Most of the music energy is in the bass, where powered sub does the heavy lifting. Low frequency sounds are mostly non-directional and are mixed to mono on vinyl. So the need for stereo at low frequency is just not there, minimizing large speaker requirements, if you have a sub. This could lead to improved domestic happiness and possibly more flexible speaker placement.
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Isotek make a nice inline DC blocker. I have one and does the job it was bought for. A might expensive though. |
Ok, so from reading all this and assuming that everyone did the best that they could, I would be wary of buying a Mac unit, period. All the other equipment he owns has no trouble, but this unit, and even another replacement unit does. |
So I took the amp to 2 of my friends houses and I meant 3 total including my house. Why this unit has no been returned is that when I took it to the dealer it was dead quite, so if I was to send it back to McIntosh I would get the same answer back as the dealers, that the unit is not defective and by all means this unit is not defective it plays music and movies very well except that the buzz is so loud you can hear it in the other room. I am not complaining about a defective unit, I am complaining that McIntosh should've invented something to put in this kind of amplifiers so when we get them we don't hear this buzz.
And as far as naming the dealer, even if I told you who sold it to me, what difference would that make. They are just a dealer and a re-seller of a high end equipment. I think IMHO that it is up to the manufacturer to make sure this units work properly everywhere in every single household no matter what electricity, since we all cannot have perfect electricity right?
I mean this dealer just started selling McIntosh like not even a year ago and they did try to resolve this problem by getting me a second new unit that did the same thing, the thing is maybe the units are working as they should it just that they have this buzz that many of us get, that's all. Some are bothered by it (like me), some aren't.
And IMO when spending this kind of money we should not deal with this kind of problems. |
4krow65 posts01-23-2019 3:17pm
And round and round we go. It’s this, it’s that, believe me. You made a simple case for me anyway. You took the unit to 3 different houses miles apart from each other with the same humming result. What more has to said? Defective unit, no? He took the amp to 2 other houses, not 3, and it buzzed. Was it as loud as it was in his home? I don’t remember if the OP said. He took the amp to the dealer where he bought it. It was put on a bench in the service department, plugged in, turned on, and no buzz. The OP said it was quiet. Defective equipment? No. McIntosh was just too tight to incorporated a DC blocker in the unit. Like I said in an earlier post I bet the design engineer designed it using a DC blocker. . |
stereo52,670 posts01-05-2019 3:11pm
I hope Tom bought it from a very good dealer with a lot of cash flow. Some stores would be unable to refund that amount of money as many rob Peter to pay Paul. I hope for a happy ending. The dealer in my area has a no return policy. You buy it, you own it. And they are not small by any means. They probably have a million dollars of audition demo equipment and speakers in various rooms in the store. They probably sell more ARC equipment in the Midwest than anyone else. And yes they sell McIntosh. I asked the dealer, several years ago, why he didn’t have a return policy like the other dealer in our area. They offer a 7 day return policy. The dealer responded with another question to me. "What does he do with a returned piece of sold equipment?" "Repackage it and resale it for new?" "Put it on the floor and sell it as a demo?" Once it was sold and taken home by a customer it became used. And then he said something like, used is used. . |
4krow "What more has to said? Defective unit, no" If the claim that it was defective was valid, authentic, and genuine then why wouldn’t this person who came hear only to complain return the unit to McIntosh for repair, adjustment, or replacement and why wouldn’t he name the dealer who sold him this defective, damaged, or inferior unit? |
And round and round we go. It's this, it's that, believe me. You made a simple case for me anyway. You took the unit to 3 different houses miles apart from each other with the same humming result. What more has to said? Defective unit, no? |
tomiiv30 "No need to name names for the dealer"
As Americans would say I am going to call bs on all of your claims there is no substance, basis, or evidence for you're claims you came hear bashing McIntosh but if you're claims were valid, authentic, and genuine then you're dealer sold you defective merchandise and is required, obligated, and bound to either facilitate, effectuate,. and accomplish a satisfactory repair, replacement or refund and you're refusal to name the dealer reflects this hidden agenda of your's. The other possibility is that you purchased a used, demo, or preowned unit which then may have been modified, damaged, or altered in such a way that the problems you claim resulted. |
No need to name names for the dealer, they have done so much actually they have done as much as they knew because they have not been trained by McIntosh to deal with this kind of situations. They did not know about this problem until I brought it up to them, and even them can’t get any clear answers back from McIntosh as to how this should be dealt with. All McIntosh did was to tell me and my dealer that I have DC on my mains and how they know if I have Dc offset I have no idea they never came to my house to check, and that was that no more interactions. It looks like I am on my own.
They replaced two units so far one being the one discussed in this thread and another one that had loose parts.
If you did not read my previous posts, this unit that buzzes like crazy at my house and at two different houses, did not buzz at the dealer at all and it was dead quite - How is that possible I have no idea and I think that even if I return this unit back to the manufacturer they would say the same thing that this unit works properly.
Also the warranty time that it would take to send and receive the unit back it would be about a year or maybe 6 moths the least.
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All the emphasis is on McIntosh's famous output transformers. Little mention of the IE power transformer. Search Audiogon for McIntosh + hum. There are threads going back years. |
This guy has a warrantee he should just return the component to the manufacturer for repair and while it is there hire a trained, competent, licensed electrician to correct the improper, faulty, and dangerous connections previously constructed by the prior contractor also he should name hear the dealer that sold him this component why hasn't he already mentioned that? |
This experience is saddening. I have direct experience in Residential Electrical as well as solid state electrical design and build. Do not buy extraneous equipment to solve this issue if you live in a house. I know the Mac is heavy but are you able to take it to a friends house and reproduce the humming? If yes, the Mac is bad and keep returning until good or a different model if stuck on Mac (oh no!). This isolated circuit does nothing for 'this' issue and is a waste because you're sharing a neutral eventually at the panel...the intermediate copper ground poles is a scary idea and grounding does not solve equipment or wiring defects. It is for personal and equipment safety that we 'ground'. A neutral is already a grounded conductor as its called and all that is bonded with the code required double ground requirements (like the buried copper rods) at the panel as well.
I think you have a bad/shared neutral somewhere in your house (or severely unbalanced neutral). Though fairly new, it doesn't determine the exactness of the junior electricians doing the house wiring. It only takes one miswiring or modification to cause this,especially with 240V coming to your panel, which is then split into separate 120V sharing the same neutral at the panel, or branch circuits with a shared neutral that shouldn't be shared. The Mac should not be affected by this however and thus it is bad. The very nature of what it does with the incoming AC should have filtered this out. I'm surprised the electrician can't identify the source. Otherwise, very remotely, its a bad neighbor introducing issues from poorly implemented solar grid tie, etc. (you share power lines) but the 'electric company' can verify that as a last resort (that you have zero DC offset at the panel...where their responsibility ends).
I have never seen 'buzz' from good equipment...but there's alot I haven't seen as well. |
All McIntosh transformers are potted with a tar like substance. |
Toroidal transformers has no airgap like old E I laminations or c-cores which means they have a very small stray field.
A gap will minimize the DC saturation, so yes DC is bad but how much before the toroid starts humming from saturation. As the transformer is very heavy it is possible it may have shifted in transit.
Is it epoxy potted or mounted on a rubber disc?
Make sure nothing is connected to the center bolt as this could make a secondary turn on the toroid, inducing a load or a voltage. Been there...
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@tomiiv30............
There are two people that wind transformers at McIntosh. That fact that the amp doesn’t buzz at the dealer is proof the transformer isn’t defective. Weather or not there is noise on your line I am unable to debate. There is not a part of the McIntosh factory that works on the “cheaper” equipment. I can say this because I have toured the factory twice. I do think McIntosh should do the right thing and give you all your money back. They won’t be losing anything other than a quick refurbishing and it would reinstore your faith in the company. Shame on them for not living up to their reputation in satisfying every customer.
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Wow, what a clam bake this turned into...
@tomiiv,
If your dealer's wiring doesn't produce hum in your amps, I don't see why he didn't have his 'electricians' check your wiring.
But, considering how you have been treated, I would be circumspect about asking them to look at your wiring.
There must be a listing of Master Electricians locally. And, one who has experience in home stereo wiring.
Bob |
@stereo5
Yeah but that doesn't mean that they don't use somebody else to do the transformers for the less expensive amps like mine.
There is another one or two threads on Audiokarma with the same problem as mine.
I mean this lady is getting old and is the only one at the factory as far as I know and how much more can she do - right? |
@tomiiv30...……………………..
McIntosh winds all their transformers in house. Don't let anyone tell you different. I toured the factory and watched the person doing it. This person has been doing it for over 40 years at McIntosh.
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@jea48
Man, that was an eye opening video. Now let me tell you something, I was told to do the copper rod by many of this or other forums to do what I have done and think that is the right way and that it should work.
After watching the video it explained very well how everything should be done and I don’t think lot of electricians know this let alone audiophiles that thin they know but they know nothing. He also mentioned us the audio guys are doing extra rods to get isolated grounding.
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@ tomiiv30 OP Your branch circuit wiring is more than likely installed in EMT (Electrical Metallic Tubing). https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-x-10-ft-Electric-Metallic-Tube-EMT-Conduit-853428/100400405 Per the NEC the EMT conduit is considered an equipment grounding conductor, Not sure if Chicago AHJ does though. I would imagine they do. Therefore per NEC the steel outlet box and supporting back strap of the IG duplex receptacle is grounded. Now I talked to another electrician just now and he said to me that the way green wire is done it is probably not up to code but he said that even they (then) it is should not be a problem.
Stop! Find another electrician! Keep looking. This guy sits on one of the NEC (National Electrical Code) boards that helps write electrical safety code. Watch the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=2&v=qNZC782SzAQ
Now what did the electrician tell you over the phone again? I know Chicago has good electricians. Jim . |
@jea48 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-20-Amp-Industrial-Grade-Heavy-Duty-Isolated-Ground-Duplex-Outlet...This is what I have for the outlet, now from that orange outlet 3 wires are cumming out and going down to the panel that's in my basement thru the the metal pipes which I think are called "conduit". Wires are Black, White and Green. All 3 wires are in the panel, black is connected to the breaker, white is screwed to the panel it self on the right side and the green one goes outside to the copper rod. Now I talked to another electrician just now and he said to me that the way green wire is done it is probably not up do code but he said that even they it is should not be a problem. He said he can come to the house and have the green wire installed inside on the panel but before he does that he said he will install some kind of a self isolated part on the panel and that green wire would attach to it. Than he said from that part he will install conduit to the water meter where he will have a grounding wire from that part to the water meter. ( That's how I understood him) |
tomiiv30 OP37 posts01-22-2019 10:25am
Trying to fix the problem for this amplifier’s buzz it made a mess of my house electrical. I shouldn’t have done anything but just enjoy my new equipment, now we went totally different direction about fixing something that was not broken in the first place.
When I hire someone to do work I expect them to do all the necessary things, if they needed a permit they should’ve got one, and like I said everything was working just fine before I started adding outlets, even now everything works just fine and maybe everything is correct but I just don’t know that what I am saying is correct, maybe I am wording myself wrong.
This problem cost me so much time and money and nerves that is giving me nightmares at night. As for correcting the connection of one of the dedicated branch circuit equipment grounding conductor that is now connected to the isolated ground rod, that’s an easy fix. More time will be spent removing the electrical panel cover and replacing it. Connecting the equipment grounding conductor, wire, to the ground bar will take about 1 minute. Removing the ground wire that goes outside to the ground rod 10 minutes, if that. IF the electrician roughed in steel boxes for the new dedicated wall outlets there is a very good chance they are not grounded. Good chance he just connected the equipment grounding conductor to the ground screw terminal on the IG duplex receptacle outlet. The mounting back strap is not electrically connected to the equipment ground contact on an IG receptacle. Unless the guy connected the equipment grounding conductor to the box, as NEC requires, the box and back strap of the receptacle is not grounded. That would have to be checked and corrected if need be. Time to look at both outlets? 15 minutes. If they need to be grounded? 5 minutes each, if that. Material? Four green grounding pigtails and two wire nuts. As for the electrician/contractor pulling a permit. I doubt you will find many electricians/contractors across the US that will pull an electrical permit for installing a couple of 20 amp branch circuits. If the customer says he wants the contractor to get an electrical permit then the contractor will do so. Note the word contractor..... Being a licensed electrician doesn’t mean he/she can pull an electrical permit. He/she is also required to have an electrical contractor license for the city he/she is working in to pull a permit. (In my area an electrical contractor doesn’t have to be a licensed electrician. He/she just has to have a licensed Master A electrician working in a management position. Even if the contractor is an electrician, but not a Master A electrician he/she is still required to employ a Master A electrician working in a management position. Burning question! Is your house wired with Romex? What did the electrician install for the branch circuit wiring? Jim . |
@twoleftears
Do they really buy their transformers from somebody else and are not wound in-house? |
@twoleftears
If that's the case McIntosh should pick up my bill and make it right for all the troubles I went thru.
The salesman from the dealer I bought my amp from told me that they had specialty electrical companies come to the building every so often to make sure everything works properly, and said that they have the best in business when it comes to electrical wiring, installation, construction and whatnot, it is a specialty hifi store and I bet their electrical is top notch.
This amp buzzed at three different houses all about 20+ miles apart, and I am still not sold on that it's only me and my electrical. But it is what it is and I have to live with it. |
You must have nerves of steel, I would be a basket case. I would have thrown the amp in question through the stores window just out of spite. I would call McIntosh and ask if they could install the DC offset filter inside the amp for a nominal fee. If they balk, tell them you will be calling the states attorney general to file a complaint and also bad mouth them all over social media and in the different online forums. Anything to get their attention. Or, put it up for sale on Audiomart and move on.
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Because the toroid isn't manufactured properly; probably not wound properly. More than one example hums because whole batches probably made with sub-par QC. It's all down to the sub-contracted company that M. buys their transformers from these days. Evidently not the same QC, and probably not the same company, as in the old days. Once you stumble over a product that hums regardless of whatever else you do to remedy it, the only thing to do is get rid and move on to a different (and hopefully better) manufacturer. That's what I did. The monoblocks I own now (admittedly not massive) are absolutely silent. |
atmasphere6,924 posts01-22-2019 10:38am
Amplifier buzz is a thing to fix- but it really shouldn’t have anything to do with the electrical system. @ atmasphere It’s not the amplifier that is buzzing loudly. It’s the power toroidal transformer buzzing, vibrating, loudly. It’s a big toroidal transformer capable of delivering 35 amps, continuous. At the vary least the torid would have to be at least rated at 3500Va. And that would really be pushing the torid beyond its’ limit using a 125% SF. In case you missed the OP post. He took the amp back to dealer. The service dept plugged the amp in, powered it up, and the torid transformer was quiet. No loud buzzing as the OP experiences at his home. tomiiv30 OP37 posts01-21-2019 6:26pm@stereo5
I still have the amp, a member of another forum sent me his two Emotiva CMX2 DC blockers and told me to put them in series and after doing so there is still buzz in the amp but quieter than without the dc blockers. @ atmasphere Any thoughts why the blockers didn’t stop the buzzing of the torid? Bad distorted waveform. Harmonics? . |
