Cable Goop Review George is going to freak!!


128x128earlflynn
One of the things that amazes me,is that this is not a high dollar system,yet I still yield great results.  And really,I shouldn't be that shocked,because when you start adding all the little things together,they add up to something much larger. No big secret there. 
Rocray,
IME, once you get the room right, most any "upgrade" (good or bad) is easy to hear. BTW, Your results with this product are the same as mine. Also, as Ozzy stated, it only gets better. 
I’m starting to hear what you folks are saying about things getting better. I had a good 4hrs of listening earlier,and one thing I noticed was focus. The instruments were better defined in the soundstage ,I guess you could say laser focused. Like when you turn the lenses on a pair of binoculars. Things are a little fuzzy,and then bingo,things are so well defined,it’s almost startling. 
rocray, The closer you use it to the origin of the music the more focused it will get. If you stream music I suggest you also treat cat 5 cable connections, Wifi power cords, etc. It will keep improving over the next several weeks. This stuff is so good, it is scary. 
Ok,don’t punch me in the head,but I’m streaming via WiFi. No cable to treat.  I know,I suck!  
So far I am reading few improvements from feedbacks including wider, taller, deeper stage, more dynamic, more details, more defined images.

Curious to know in a well balanced system with good transparency, will these improvement make the system sounds analytical/digital-ish?

Thanks!
kimurastanley,
We all think we have a balanced system. Some may cost more or less.

ozzy
A couple of questions please:

1) Who is George? Someone of AmirM or Ethan Winer fame I am guessing? Pardon my ignorance on the audio gurus

2) Once you apply this thing, can it be wiped off? In case I want to sell that particular cable later on. I doubt anyone will buy cables with darkish stuff on it

Thank you
thyname,
1) I think George is the resident naysayer about tweaks, cables etc.
2) Yes, the stuff can be wiped off with Isopropyl alcohol.

ozzy
I’ve just tried it and it works. So far I’m using it on my interconnects (server/DAC to tube line stage to tube monoblocks) and on the power cords feeding my server and an etherRegen. Four days in, improvements across the board in terms of bass (leaner, more overtones) and sound staging. Music sounds “brighter” overall.  With my system, vocals used to be far too prominent, almost masking the rest of the mix.  The nps has solved that issue— everything sounds more integrated and in its proper place. The sound stage isn’t any bigger (yet) but I do have has lost the congealed quality it often used to have. It’s easy now to follow the lines,of individual instruments. I haven’t finished treating my entire system yet, and full break-in likely to be a few more weeks. But so far, I’m very impressed and looking forward to the journey. 
kimurastanley
If you unplug and replug cables a lot, you may need to retreat the cables or power cords. Coating over a coat does not hurt, it will take longer to sound good.
Thanks Ozzy! Ahhhh… I think I know who that George is. The anti-fuse guy if I am not mistaken? 
ozzy5,088 posts08-08-2021 6:28pmthyname,
1) I think George is the resident naysayer about tweaks, cables etc.
2) Yes, the stuff can be wiped off with Isopropyl alcohol.

ozzy
I actually think the 1260 is better than adding a yellow QSA fuse.
Of course adding both adds even more realism, depth, enjoyment...

ozzy
 Hey ozzy, i just ordered the NPS-1260 and noted you spoke about a  QSA fuse. I recently put a QSA fuse in my  ADD-POWR Sorcer X2 which in itself was a game changer for me. The QSA fuse, unexpected  from my earspective, more than doubled the wondrous effect of the Sorcer which was a shocker. Did you hear a positive difference right away or what when you put NPS-1260 on the QSA fuse? Also same question on power cables and effect. I have enjoyed your previous comments thru the years and appreciate any observations you have made, thanks marc
marc777,
Thanks for the kind words.
The 1260 takes about a week to show its stuff even true on the QSA fuses. At this time, I only have a SR orange fuse on my Sorcer X4, glory also recommended using the QSA fuse on it.
Darn looks like I will have to get another QSA for mine. What QSA fuse are you using?

I have a collage of different power cords that I think highlights the components they are powering. But, I did add the 1260 to all the prong ends.


ozzy
Okey dokey!  I've put probably 25 hours or more on my system since treating rca cables from pre to amp, and speaker cable bananas on speaker side.  The soundstage makes my tiny listening room easily 2-3 ft wider on each side. The depth has increased,and there are more layers,and more detail. Also,like I stated earlier, the instruments are firmly planted.  If this works this well on my modest system, I can only imagine how well it would work in a true hi end system.  I'm dumbfounded!   

     Now,I have absolutely no engineering background whatsoever,but if I was forced to guess what's in the formula,I would say it somehow alters the magnetics. Liquid magnets?  Whatever it is, I hear the benefits.  I'm sold! 
rocray,
Congrats! Spooky product, but it works very well indeed.

BTW,
What ever happened to the OP?

ozzy
Has anyone used it on 300B tube pins?  I know it is a light coat but I don't want to gunk up the tube sockets.  I have 16 of them.  I have already applied to cords and cables.  If you paste the pins, do you just paste the tip?
willgolf  I used it on 2A3 pins and small signal pins. It made a huge difference. Small signal pin treatment seems to improve the focus and soundstage and power tube pins seem to improve authority and slam. Don't forget to also treat the power cords.
For those who used Total Contact and now
favor 1260: did you remove TC first or simply
add a layer of 1260 on top of it?
Thanks for your input ozzy. Did you put any 1260 on your PSA fuses and if so was it about a week like the SR fuse? Did you coat all or most of fuse end? Also on the power cords were they the same too? It is hard for me to admit but i tried and now find it hard to live without the QSA red and black fuse in my Sorcer. I justified it by spreading it between my birthday and christmas gift to myself. For a complete picture I need to tell that i ordered a plastic top for Sorcer. So as i was testing back and forth changing fuses i noticed a big difference by leaving top off than on even with the plastic top. The harmonics seem to dramatically increase and improve with top off. 
    My girlfriend plays an electric keyboard in the next room to my stereo and it greatly improved with top off and QSA fuse installed.She and i heard it almost immediately. The harmonics  I will mention the only fuse in my stereo is in the Sorcer, so not sure if that is a factor as to outsized difference the QSA fuse had. Just count me a happy and satisfied music lover!
sgordon1,
I removed the TC long before using the 1260.

marc777,
I coated the complete ends of the fuses including the end sides. Didn’t take much of the solution to do it. The power cords were coating about a 1/3 of the way down on all sides including ground.

So, you are saying to remove the top of the Sorcer? Interesting, you may have something there, I will try it once I get another QSA fuse.

ozzy
Hey ozzy the NPS-1260 will be here soon and i was wondering did you use it on the RCA jacks of equipment the cables plug into? Also did use it with usb or anywhere else you would advise? Any warnings you can point out? I thank you for all your input.
   Yes for me there is a big difference with top off of sorcer which is right next to my integrated amp. I am curious if anyone else has same reaction. 
marc777,
I did use the 1260 on a digital rca, just a little on the tip and I also applied it to a F connector for my Satellite connection. Didn't try it on any usb. The 1260 is conductive so it would be too hard to apply in such a close connection point. IMHO that is.
Someday somewhere down the line I do intend in applying it to my  breakers at the box that power my audio.
ozzy
Will treat the interior of my preamp next..then the ac connections and all my outlets on my sound wall and the 3 dedicated breakers and inlet line to the  ac subbox. 
Doing a speaker rebuild will definitely treat all the new lines and connections to and from. The woofer tensile lead maybe a game changer and the solder joints to the voice coil..I may even do the voice coil even though it has enameled wire. Works on soldered connections why not over the enamel even if 25% effective it would be worth the hassle. Tom
The results I have experienced are with a lite coat..not dark not like boot polish. I take the supplied brush and put a drop or 2 on copper foil and then use a artist brush to apply to the parts at hand.
This gives me greater control.
I used the same method with TC.
I also used the supplied stiff narrow fine brush on my dac ribbon cables and those on the transport.  Tom
Sounds interesting. I must say that I bought the 3ml bottle and have done my whole system and I think I have more than 1/2 bottle left!
So it does go a long way.

ozzy
I bought a second small bottle in case I run out mid course. I did use some to give a couple friends a taste of amazement..and they were. Tom
@Johanvz


I used it on 2A3 pins and small signal pins. It made a huge difference.

Have you looked into how to clean the tube sockets if you don't want to not use it anymore? 

Also, what would you do when you tube roll? Apply only to new tubes or re apply even when going back to one you used before?

Thanks
Pauly
Thanks for info ozzy. I recently email Rick (inventor of 1260) from high fidelity cables and asked him about usb. here follows my email and his response. I think it will be of interest to many.
  Hi, are there any videos of applying NPS-1260 to usb, spdif,ect. yet? Will there be any by you if not? Enjoy your products, thanks marc brown
 
    Eventually yes this is planned however it's quite simple. There are two methods for USB depending on the size of the USB you can use the small applicator that looks like a tiny Q-tip or potentially even a toothpick get a magnifying headlamp and try to put the material on the strips of the USB. The first few times this is the method I used however now all I do is wipe the brushoff very good on the top of the bottle inserted into the USB end of the cable and wipe it around. To get it in there some of the bristles will bend back you need to make sure it gets into the connector well so I kind of tap it in.This will leave a lot of material on the dielectric however I have found no issue with that and no difference in sound. At first I was careful not to do this but it didn't seem to make any difference performance was still the same even when it was coating the dielectric.This allowed me to do things like USB-C. One thing I'm careful to do is after applying there will be a lot of material on the end of the USB where it doesn't need to be I use a paper towel and wipe this material off so that it's only on the inside.Spirit has done the same as an RCA the pin is simply smaller so it's very easy to do.I'm not sure when we're going to have time for videos but I suggest that you can confidently move forward.If you're leery and want help I could FaceTime with you or something like that just let me know.Have fun Marc.Rick
 Also saw this about the NPS- 1260 and usb and spdif ect. 

     

It has been tested to work well on power cords, and fuses (apply with care) as well as circuit breaker connection and the wires connected to these devices, receptacles are an obvious choice. Obvious uses are on RCA’s, XLR’s, speaker cables, speaker jumper plates, thin applications on USB and HDMI AES3 and SPDIF have been “transformative” successful in our testing.

It can be used on coaxial cable wires connecting your Wi-Fi system or ethernet cables removing the excess from the plastic connecter itself completely so that it is clean afterward.

Can be used on antenna connection of routers, digital cables of all electrical types. Patch cables, quarter-inch cables 1/8 in cables headphone connections of all types, mini-XLR, and others have been successfully treated.


Of special note is the use of "transformative" when used in usb and spdif connections
theaudiotweak >>>

Hi, Tom. As one who has used both NPS-1260 and TC, can you describe the differences? I still have several tubes of TC left and have loved the results it brings to the table. 

Ozzie ...

TC, when used in large amounts, does have the initial effect of screwing things up ... like loss of mid-bass and diminished highs. For example, when I pasted the entire inside of my power conditioner and the lid of my CD player, it took several weeks for things to return. When they did, it was amazing. Also, TC users know about the four and eight-week jump in performance. So, I'm wondering if in your assessment of a loss in the highs, did you leave it on long enough to hear the benefits?  Your review of NPS-1260 has me intrigued. Thanks ... 

Frank
Hello Frank over there..

The 1260 makes an improvement out of the gate..sure it gets better with time but you dont need all summer just an egg timer to hear the difference.  The 1260 is more seamless and coherent top to bottom and has greater inner detail and nuance than TC. Backround vocals and lyrics are all apparent. You dont need to consult the web to read about lyrics you think you heard..you simply understand them. More visual cues that make you look in all directions, almost like an owl. Bass is better in every way not missing or yearning for my four subs at all. More coherent and integrated more impact from a 6 inch driver ...just amazing.

Starting a complete speaker rebuild on Wednesday. New drivers and a very simple crossover, every conductive surface will be treated. Can't wait to apply 1260 Elixir everywhere I can..

Frank it is simply better than the TC. Tim made this catagory a big deal Rick has made it the real deal.
Tom



oregonpapa,

I did like the PPT Omega mats and the cards, but the PPT paste was just to much and not right at least for my ears and system. I tried it for probably a month. Perhaps it had something to do with the power system, but I dunno. I really don't think the two products are similar.

The 1260 as described above by the audiotweak is right on. I hear no negatives.

ozzy
By the way, where is the original poster?  Wasn't he supposed to be testing the 1260?

ozzy
In an earlier post someone asked if the time for application to improve was burn-in time from use or just...time. I didn't find any answer. 
Just add the NPS to new   MC1 Pro wave guide and plugged it in.  The other MC1 Pros in my system took 20 hours or more before the sound got good. With the NPS it sound good right away.
Pete I do believe that..same for me on all my applications even though I have 0 mc1s. Great product.  Tom
ozzy i asked mike from tweek geek to affirm the NPS-1260 was good by the inventor of the PSA fuses and if there is any warnings.  what follows is mike response. Thought it might be useful to some, marc

        It is fine, just don't get it on the sticker around the fuse.
Kind Regards,

Mike Garner | Head Geek
marc777,

Thanks for the advise, makes sense.
I tried the 1260 first on a SR orange fuse and would say I got a good bump in sound quality. Then when I switched to the treated 1260 QSA yellow fuse a little bit more. It did seem to improve a lot more when I just used the 1260.
But, perhaps if I had tried just the QSA fuse first the improvement would have been the other way around.

The two products work well together.

ozzy
First thing I applied the 1260 to was the ac power line magnets in my amps and the blade fuse in my Dac Tower. Those 3 treatments on those 3 items which could easily be removed but sold me, making me move forward..Out of the gate better. Tom