Are Their any Tube Preamp with Home Theater Bypass?

Probably already mentioned but most of the newer ARC preamps have a Unity Gain input

http://www.audiophile.no/en/articles-tests-reviews/item/426-amplifiers-with-processor-input

This may help.

Conrad Johnson all the way.  All of there units Have had theater bypass for many many years now. Michael

I like the subtle humour.

Wow....

Hearing that the Rogue RP’s have HT hard-wire bypass when turned off is a game changer for me. I’m definitely going to look into that! I’m still hooked on my old Anthem AVM50. Its analog path is no slouch, but I know it can be improved upon by a dedicated stereo pre.

Conrad Johnson all the way.  All of there units Have had theater bypass for many many years now. Michael

Yes, plenty.  Sonic Frontiers for one.  BAT.  I would guess the majority do 

The fantastic Herron preamp does.

I currently use a tube preamp with HT bypass for both of my systems. I use the Quicksilver Linestage in my family room. It’s great and I really like it. I also have a Prima Luna EVO 300 in my main system, which I love more for its main purpose as a stereo preamp. The Quicksilver is more convenient for HT because it stays powered off in bypass mode.

Cary

Aesthetix Pallene - this is a hybrid pre with just 2 tubes at output.

Cary Audio SLP-05 with the Ultimate Upgrade plus an unbelievable real Headphone Tube amplifier. Hard to beat.

Thanks everyone for your help. There were a few posts that recommended keeping my 2 channel system and home theater separate and it made sense for my setup. I already have a very nice desktop system and that will be the system I go with tubes. The home theater will stay multichannel and if I want to listen in stereo I'll just use the Pure Direct analog mode of my Marantz processor.

I use a Rogue RP5 - has HT bypass. 

@oldrooney thanks for that. I feared that is how I would have to do this if I moved the freya to my HT system. 

@jcwilson et al, It is my understanding that the Freya+ in this situation, is functioning as a preamp. That is, the AVR sends it signal to the Freya, and the Freya passes it to the amp which powers the speakers. So with the volume turned up on the AVR, the Freya is going to see a strong signal at it’s input. I would advise starting with the Freya’s volume minimized, adjust the AVR to where the speakers it controls are where you want them, and then bring the Freya’s speakers up to match their volume level. Now, when you adjust the output of the AVR, the Freya should respond in like manner. The trouble comes in if there is a mismatch between the voltage output from the AVR and the Freya, but I wouldn’t expect a problem if the AVR is Line Out to the Freya’s Line In. Another issue is differences in gain between the AVR preout and the Freya, but if you stick with the Freya’s buffered unity gain mode that should be a nonissue as well. Some might warn of impedance mismatching, but I would think the volume knob on the Freya would allow you to compensate for all but the worst cases. What the Freya will NOT allow you do is adjust the level of its inputs, that is, create an ‘offset’ for the AVR or any other device to allow easy switching of sources without fear of deafening blasts or disquieting stillness at the speakers whenever you switch sources on the Freya. You just have to mark the setting which works best for you and make sure the Freya is ready for the AVR input before you switch the Freya to it. Disclaimer: I’m no expert in these matters, I’ve just been fiddling with this stuff for years, and sharing what I THINK will happen, or should happen, or at least what I expect to happen. The advantage of a true Home Theater pass-through is that they guarantee what will, and will not, happen. Usually they are allowing the AVR to send its signal directly to the amp downstream of the preamp. This is not the case with the Freya, the signal must go through one of the three modes the Freya can be configured. Passive: SE in — SE out no gain, FET Buffer: SE or Balanced in — SE or Balanced out (conversion possible) unity gain (a bit stiffer than passive mode), Tube amplification; SE or Balanced in — SE or Balanced out (conversion possible) significant gain available [12dB]. I think I’m staying on topic here.

@oldrooney Thanks for the information.  I see that now in the manual about converting single-ended input to balanced output.  But I still don't understand if there is any way to fix the volume of the Freya when you have a singled ended AVR input and balanced outputs to amp.  If you want to have the Freya's volume controlled by a connected AVR (single-ended), you would put the Freya in buffered mode and then do what with the volume.  turn the volume all the way up like they suggest to do in passive mode?  Or do you have to determine where the volume should be for playing the AVR and just put it at that spot every time you switch to AVR?  Or would it not matter where the volume is?  This is where I remain confused.

@jcwilson (and other Freya owners) You are correct about the Freya+ not converting single-ended inputs to balanced outputs in passive mode, as stated in the Owner’s Manual under the head ‘Connections.’ However, the Freya also has the unity gain buffered output which performs the conversion without using the tubes, Idem, under head ‘Controls.’ As a Freya owner, one of my biggest frustrations was the level control between input selections. I actually replaced the volume knob with a ‘blade’ knob so that I could tell at a glance where the volume was set before I switched sources. Another consideration is that the Freya+ would need to be powered up to perform the SE to balanced conversion. As for passive mode, the Owner’s Manual references a ‘resistor ladder’ in the circuit, there is nothing said about if the signal would still pass though if the unit was not powered up, but I wouldn’t think so. I believe there is a ‘power on’ relay for the unit as a whole, I know there is a 45 second delay for the tube mode. I suspect there is a microprocessor involved is system startup and monitoring functions. 
y 2 cents

My Rogue Perseus has one, never used it so I can't vouch for how it works. I was going to list it so if interested pm me.

The Cary Audio Design SLP-05 preamp has a perfect HT Bypass.  When switched to HT Bypass the incoming signal only travels through a couple relays and back out the jacks.  So no active circuitry in the signal path.  Just in one jack, through the relay and back out!  And it’s an outstanding sounding preamp. Especially if you get one with the Ultimate Upgrade.  Much more refined sound then the standard version and you can probably find a used one at a decent price. 

My BAT VK30SE has theater bypass, but I don't use it anymore.  Instead, I run my home theater front pre outs into the SE inputs on my Bryston 4B SST2, and run the 2 channel preamp into the balanced inputs.  When I want to do theater, I just flip the input switches to SE and when I listen to 2 channel, I flip it back.  That way the systems are isolated but I still get the benefit of the Bryston and Maggies in the HT setup.

Aesthetix Calypso.  

IF you are using the system as your main 2 channel music and alternately as the front for a Home Theater via AVR:

then tube preamp is more desirable, thus tube life will be increased, but I would not avoid tubes IF tube sound is desired for the 2 channel use.

as noted, small tubes last 10,000 hours, and they do not cost too much. Always have a spare set ready.

the model that allows HT Bypass input to be used while the tube preamp is OFF sounds ideal.

I was in the same boat a while back. I didn't want to be limited to only amps with HT bypass. I decided to try a selector from Amazon,(SOLUPEAK P2 2(1)-in-1(2)-Out Amp) which does a great job and allows me to choose which amp feeds the speakers. It's a simple device and I have noticed no loss in quality. No issues with the tube amp and Marantz AVR after a few years. I actually swap between tube and some vintage SS in that system because it's made it very easy. It's a simple device and you could always upgrade the wire inside if you wanted to. 

Yes I have a McIntosh MX120 home theater preamp, with a McIntosh C2300 tube preamp. The C2300 has goes into bypass when the MX130 is on watching TV. Works excellent and love them both. Highly recommended. Although the C2300 has updated versions C2600 they all have bypass. 

The TAD 150 Signature has it, if you can find one ( used only).  It’s passive, so the pre doesn’t need to be powered up.

Cary Audio SLP-05.  End game preamp. Has HT bypass. 

I am looking at this issue as well and found this helpful page listing both integrateds and preamps with HT-bypass:

It is updated but not complete (for instance it is missing Modwright).  I have considered moving my Schiit Freya plus to my AVR system, which does not have HT bypass but does have a passive mode.  Some problems I see with just using unity gain are 1) the fear of switching inputs without lowering volume, and 2) I believe that you cannot utilize an unbalanced input (from an AVR for instance) going to a balanced output to your amps in passive mode.  I could be wrong on this second point.

I have a related question.  If you want to incorporate a single subwoofer into both the HT system and 2 channel system, how do you accomplish that?  Do you simply have to use two different inputs into the sub?

Yes, it is true that the tubes in a preamp will be “consumed” even when using HT bypass. Just keep in mind signal tubes in a tube preamp last longer than power tubes in a tube amp. 12AX7’s, for example, can last upwards of 10,000 hours. I’m about 75% 2-channel music, 25% multi-channel HT, so not a huge concern for me. If you’re the reverse, it might be more of a concern, but not nearly as much with a tube preamp as if you were looking at a tube amp with a bunch of KT88’s that you were going to be running 8 hours a day between music and HT. It was for that very reason that I went with a tube preamp and solid state power amp.

If the tube preamp has a true bypass, then it does not need to be powered on, and passes the HT signal through it.

As you already mentioned, 10000 hours is a quite while and should not pose a concern, even if the preamp doesn’t have a bypass… it is 1-10 cents/hour for a preamp’s tube cost.

@ghdprentice , I have a nice room for my two channel setup on my desktop. That makes a lot of sense, thanks.

About tubes , I just wanted to point out that it is not a free ride.

For movies and music . And  if someone  begin to worry , each time he spend an evening watching movies .

well ……

I would choose to have two systems and listen to my audio system in the walk in closet.

I bet the soundstage and imaging would be amazing. 

I agree with most of your posts, but that would be a much bigger compromise than a well put together combined system. 

oddio the way we described works perfectly it just requires you to adjust the pramps volume which you must recall a piece of tape with an arrow works or if your preamp has a numerical display you just have to use that  number on the display

so in our scenario the op can look at any preamp and other the losing a few seconds to preset the volume he can purchase any tube pre he likes

In my opinion, a well designed tube preampsgenerally out perform solid state. Yes, tubes need to be replaced and cost money. This can be completely inconsequential or a big deal depending on the preamp… preamps with tubes for amplification and for the power supply are more costly…but it depends on usage.

But backing up a bit. The biggest compromise is likely to be combining a audio system with a home theater. This is generally a huge compromise of the audio system. One I would not, and have not had to make. These two systems have vastly different objectives. If humanly possible, best to keep them separate.

I would recommend we go back to your current system, components, restrictions on space. If I had an alternative of a living room combined HT and audio system and a HT in the living room and a walk in closet with my audio system. I would choose to have two systems and listen to my audio system in the walk in closet.

I would think about that first… then start thinking about how to move forward.

I have two - Herron VTSP-360 and ARC LS26. I previously owned the Modwright LS100, which also has HTBP.

Some tube preamps put less stress on tubes than others.

I'm guessing that most people that put together a combined 2 channel / home theater system don't have room or funds for both or would have to make other compromises that would result in both systems being worse than the single combined system. 

It's certainly the best solution for me. 

@jerryg123 , as soon as I read your post something clicked. Use a tube based pre on my desktop system and I think a solid state dac/pre in the HT. I am leaning toward the Mac MB50.

It’s not maintenance it is replacing power tubes. Just keep it separate. HT is better SS or Hybrid. I would never have tubes in HT. Just my opinion.

VAC preamps will provide you exceptional sound and a Home Theater Bypass.  I believe the bypass can be used without power to the preamps tubes.  Call VAC and discuss.

Yes, it is true that the tubes in a preamp will be “consumed” even when using HT bypass. Just keep in mind signal tubes in a tube preamp last longer than power tubes in a tube amp. 12AX7’s, for example, can last upwards of 10,000 hours. I’m about 75% 2-channel music, 25% multi-channel HT, so not a huge concern for me. If you’re the reverse, it might be more of a concern, but not nearly as much with a tube preamp as if you were looking at a tube amp with a bunch of KT88’s that you were going to be running 8 hours a day between music and HT. It was for that very reason that I went with a tube preamp and solid state power amp.

@maxwave , I am clueless in the ways of the tube and had no idea that they were that high maintenance. I will check with the vendors to see what the likely schedule will be and shop for the low maintenance variety. You may have saved my bacon there, thanks.

Are *there

@kota1    Have in mind that,  Home Theater with tube preamp; means

that the tiubes will be used a lot . Therefore , they will have to be replaced 

quite often

@kota1 I don’t know a lot about the MB50, but I probably wouldn’t consider it a true preamp, although it does have limited digital and analog inputs. I’m not sure it would be any sonic improvement over your Marantz in 2-channel direct mode.

Thank you to everyone who posted. I have a lot to shop for now and really appreciate the suggestions. Looking forward to checking each suggestion out and will post about it once it is in my rack. If you look at the system on my profile page you will see I am mainly a multichannel enthusiast but I saw a post about this HT bypass feature and since my multichannel is set I decided to try a really nice two channel pre. I am sure it will be different than what I have now and that is why I asked for some feedback here. 

The Nagra Jazz (and maybe other Nagras) have bypass.

The preamp does not need to be powered on as it moves relays over to the bypass when shut off.

It seems to sound ok too,

@bjp9738 , I am looking at the Mac MB50 streamer/preamp and the tips I got for a workaround from @carlsbad ​​​​@audiotroy have me thinking this will fit my needs. I am really intrigued by the Mac brand and am already using the DTS Play-Fi system the MB50 uses around the house. What do you think?

McIntosh C12000, C2700 and C8 all have HT pass thru. I own the C2700 and use the HT pass thru with my Anthem surround processor.

@kota1 BAT (Balanced Audio Technology) also has the HT Bypass function which can be selected to be used on any of the inputs.  As stated above, you can select Unity Gain so the processor controls volume for all channels and the 2-channel preamp is simply a pass-through function.  I have a BAT preamp as part of a very substantial 2-channel system.  I also have a Marantz pre/pro and 7-channel power amp that are on a separate AC circuit from my dedicated 20-amp circuit for the 2-channel system.  I only use home theater about twice per month.  But when I do this system design allows me to utilize the main 2-channel power amp and my main speakers as part of the home theater total system.  This design and setup has zero impact on the 2-channel system.  The home theater components are completely separated from the 2-channel system, on their own circuit, and remain powered off most of the time anyway.  Should you have any question I welcome a Private Message.

new with proper features is wisest of course.

you need the AVR to control the volume of all speakers.

HT Bypass is an INPUT, the AVR controls volume of all channels together, sending front l and r into the HT Bypass INPUT., using your stereo amp for those, and using it's own amps for center, surrounds, and sub out.

Older tube preamps: tape loops or processor loops would allow the AVR to control the volume, and you select 'tape monitor' or 'processor' for that input.

processor out to avr, avr back to processor in.

tape out to avr, avr to tape in/monitor.

then you do the channel adjustments in the AVR menu.

Vinnie Rossi Brama Preamp.

It is more than deçent

Wnen in HT Bypass mode , the unit is set automaticly in SS mode