Please don’t comment on something you know nothing about.
@vinylshadow Given your series of posts I find your choice of words really funny.
Why whole house surge protectors are not enough
TL;DR:
One measure of a surge protector is the clamping voltage. That is, at what voltage does the surge protector actually start to work. Whole house surge protectors are limited to no less than ~ 600 Volts (instantaneous) between a leg and neutral or ground. That’s up to 1,200V if symmetrical.
The best surge protecting strips and conditioners clamp below 200 Volts.
Please keep this in mind when deciding whether or not to use surge protectors at your PC, stereo, TV, etc. in addition to a whole house unit.
I wrote more about this here:
https://inatinear.blogspot.com/2021/09/time-for-new-surge-suppression.html
No manufacturer of whole house surge protection claims that their devices alone are enough for sensitive electronics when you check the fine print.
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@vinylshadow Given your series of posts I find your choice of words really funny. |
I was only half joking when I wrote "safety be damned".
Then I came across this for a different product that has their PFC function on whatsbestforum.
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@britamerican Isn’t there an NEC or UL limit to the amount of capacitance you can put on the AC line, before any primary windings?? |
@erik_squires Why thank you. Thank you very much. |
If you asked me that 15-20 years ago maybe I would have known the answer. I doubt UL or NEC would ever say the capacitor can only be this big. They will write a bunch of paragraphs that will have the same effect. 5 minutes on Google and I found maximum of 34V after 1 second. |
Caelin Gabriel and Shunyata make suppressors for medical gear so I think they're a lot more knowledgeable than most people here. I spoke with Tim from Transient Protection Design who said that their whole home unit has MOVs that turn on at 150v. I encouraged him to have his engineer write something more detailed that I could share. They also recommend a defense on depth approach for sensitive electronics, and have detailed pdf showing how a home filled with electronics might be protected. |
Great, so which of their gear has been UL or ETL tested? Do they promote any of it as surge protectors?
That is interesting if true. Are you sure that isn't how it clamps after activation? |
This Belkin surge protector in front of your gear rack is all you need. Less than $45. |
Did I miss the response to what we think about "Envionmental Potentials" as a protective technolgy? VH Audio has always seemed to be edgy, but grounded in things that work, and they carry their products. I would really love to have more protection for my system than the whole house Leviton I have and several Shunyata Defenders plugged into my amps dedicated lines. |
Than most people here is not setting a very high bar but even then I am not sure. They say a lot of dumb stuff. 150 vrms. They use 140v MOV probably. Not doing anything till 240 DC. A big surge is going to be over 400V. The datasheets don't give a lot of details. What's the controversy? Whole house plus a power bar for surge protection. Seems pretty obvious. MOVs don't do anything to your audio. Crazy to believe they do.
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@erik_squires Around $250. I’ve just recently discovered these, and plan on installing one on my condenser. I also have these on my humidifier, dehumidifier, refrigerator and furnace (i.e., any device I own that has a motor or compressor), even though I rarely ever experience brownouts (you never know though when they might pop up). I like to be proactive (some may call it OCD). This also looks to have one of the lowest *specified* clamping voltages (140 V) I’ve ever seen on a surge protector. Even though I already incorporate a ton of surge protection in my house, and on my video and audio gear, I may even consider adding one of these to the audio and video (non power amp) AC feed for this gear: |
Interesting!! Based on what I've read about lightning striking outdoor AC units directly I really think that it's our outdoor units, not our stereos, which need a separate panel. That is, if I could redo my house wiring, I'd run a panel from the meter straight to the outdoor heat pumps, with their own breakers and surge protectors, and another line from the meter into the house. I mean of course to meet code 100%. What I'd avoid if building new is to have the electricity come inside to a service panel then back out to AC units. As it is, any lightning striking those outside units gets to come inside before meeting a surge protector. |
I understand what you’re saying Erik. You’ve given me another idea. As of right now (and as with almost any), my outdoor A/C condenser’s earth ground goes back into the house, and attaches to the panelboard’s grounding bus bar. If we’re looking at lightning protection for a condenser (if it sustains a direct hit), one would want that strike to immediately discharge into the ground, *before* hitting the circuit breaker box, and *then* discharging into the ground via the ground rod(s) feeding the circuit breaker box's grounding bus bar. For many this may not be feasible, but in my case, my ground rod is right beside my A/C condenser. While maintaining the current condenser earth ground connection, I may install another low impedance earth ground directly from the A/C condenser to the ground rod (again, OCD). Having been a Radio Broadcast Engineer for decades, this is basically the same thing we do when grounding broadcast towers. The main ground system exists around the broadcast tower (many times incorporating a ring of ten 8’-10’ grounding rods cadwelded together), so that the strike can *immediately* discharge into the ground, *before* entering a transmitter building or studio/office building. The rest of the star ground system for the facility then feeds off of this broadcast tower base ground system. |
@erik_squires Yes, already aware, and yes, for the sake of others. One other thing (that I learned in broadcast engineering): many times a lighting strike discharge does not like to take corners. Straight wires (with the least amount of bends) are always encouraged when designing grounds that will dissipate and discharge lightning strikes quickly into the ground. Also, due to the skin effect of wire at certain frequencies, and the general frequency (spectrum) of a typical lightning strike; in the broadcast world, we almost always use 3"- 5" copper strap (very low resistance with lots of surface area) when dealing with lightning and grounding. |
Here's another surge protector that has a very low (specified) clamping voltage (135V), as compared to many other surge protectors that don't clamp until 300 volts, or even as high as 600 volts. The linked surge protector may be marketed as a refrigerator surge protector, but it could still be used for audio and video surge protection, especially since it has a very low clamping voltage. |