PASS and VAC.
Suggest an entry - midrange Preamp (tube as well as SS) for a McIntosh power amp
Starting a new thread to get some suggestions on what would be a good preamp for my new McIntosh MC152 power amp. Currently its connected to my Rotel RA-12 and powering KEF LS50s. I plan to upgrade the speakers down the line to either something like the Evoke 50s or B&W 805D3 (still debating between their sound sig.).
My preference tends to be more towards warm, non-harsh top end with a little sparkle and good controlled bass. I do like the Rotel sound honestly, but it being an Integrated, I plan to move it to do duties in another room. I would prefer to have a DAC built in, but if its a good Analog only tube preamp, I’m open for it. Needs to have a remote control and preferably a sub-out along with pre-outs.
Right now on my radar are:
Parasound P6
Rogue RP1
Schiit Saga or Freya +
Given the damage I just took from the McIntosh purchase, I’m trying to get by with as low as possible price wise. So unless its really worth the extra spend, I’d like to stay closer to $1-1.5k USD range.
On a different note, is okay to use a Y-splitter on the Pre-out to feed to the sub and the power amp? Or will this degrade the signal or mess anything with the input impedence on the sub or the power amp?
My preference tends to be more towards warm, non-harsh top end with a little sparkle and good controlled bass. I do like the Rotel sound honestly, but it being an Integrated, I plan to move it to do duties in another room. I would prefer to have a DAC built in, but if its a good Analog only tube preamp, I’m open for it. Needs to have a remote control and preferably a sub-out along with pre-outs.
Right now on my radar are:
Parasound P6
Rogue RP1
Schiit Saga or Freya +
Given the damage I just took from the McIntosh purchase, I’m trying to get by with as low as possible price wise. So unless its really worth the extra spend, I’d like to stay closer to $1-1.5k USD range.
On a different note, is okay to use a Y-splitter on the Pre-out to feed to the sub and the power amp? Or will this degrade the signal or mess anything with the input impedence on the sub or the power amp?
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update ... what are your thoughts between Parasound P6 and Rotel RC-1572? The P6 seems to have a lot of bass management and crossover control not sure if that’s good or would just add more coloration to the signal feeding into the MC152. Also what can I expect from the built in Dacs, the ESS 9018k2m in the P6 vs the AKM (not sure which model) in the Rotel. Are either of them know for a particular signature ? I like the warm sound of my current Rotel which uses Wolfson 8470 Dac chip I believe |
@woodhart @jnorris2005 @allenf1963 Thanks for sharing your experience with the Schiitt gear. I’m super tempted give the price, just not sure if I should instead get a SS preamp first that has a Dac built in and then add Freya later for the tube sound. It’s a tough call @mrklas I’ve definitely heard of Simaudio, its just that its way outside my price range, I’m trying to say south of $1.5k @georgehifi I’ll ping that user about the tubes, thanks for the tip! @mcmvmx Will check that one out, not heard of it before. @lordrootman Will that Rotel make that much of a difference though? From my understanding the only difference is I think upgrade from the Wolfson (WM8470 maybe?) to a different DAC. I’m trying to know if its a sizeable upgrade. @pops Thanks will check it out Appreciate all the suggestions. I’ll do some homework now based on the recommendations and come back to this topic |
The Freya+ would be a great option even if you hadn't opened the vault to get a McIntosh amplifier. The fact that you did (and I'm very jealous) tips the scales greatly in Schiit's favor. The Freya+ plays way above its pricepoint in sound quality, build quality, features, and also in the areas such as customer support and return policies. An added bonus, at least in my eyes, Schiit Audio is an American company. I think you would be very happy with the McIntosh and Schiit pairing. I haven't rolled the tubes in my Freya+ Preamp....yet. |
sr20022002 OPThat’s one for @wolf_garcia wolf_garcia to answer, he knows all about the Freyas and what magic it can do with what tubes, he love it so much I worry about him sometimes. Then he has a Loki too and I also think they have a great spot in anyone's system if needed. Cheers George |
I have the Freya S (got it before it was discontinued) and the original Saga. I like the Freya much better - even in passive mode. I'm using an SMSL SU-8 DAC which does 44.1 all the way to DSD256+. I also own a Modi Multibit, but it stops dead at 192K - if that's an issue for you - and doesn't sound as open as the SMSL. At my computer, I'm using a Topping e30, which also sounded better than the Schiit, and also goes to DSD512. |
@georgehifi I’m super tempted by the Freya, especially at the price point its at. That being said, what are the tube rolling options with that one? Are the stock tubes pretty good, or do I need to immediately spring for Tung-sol or RCA NOS tubes? I already played that game with my Dark Voice head amp ;) ... its fun for sure, but get pretty expensive real quick. I’ll be feeding the preamp to the MC152, not sure what the impedance is on that amp, hopefully its not a problem. Another challenge I see with the Freya is that I’ll have to buy a Dac separately which will be an added cost, will most likely go with a Schiit multibut for the heck of it. Any Dac suggestions apart from Schiit to go with the Freya? Thanks for that note on the Y-splitter, so basically worst case I’ll need to crank the volume on the pre a little more than normal with the y-splitter, but it shouldn’t degrade the quality of the signal. How do you think it comes to the Rogue RP-1? Anyone have experience with that by any chance? @gone Ideally I’d like USB (DSD support), Coax and optical inputs. But worst case I can get buy with just Coax and optical. Haven’t looked at Bel Canto yet, will it match the sound signature I’m looking for? |
sr20022002 OP On a different note, is okay to use a Y-splitter on the Pre-out to feed to the subYes if it only one one channel, but it also depends on the input impedance of the sub and your amp, together this is the impedance load the pre will see on only that channel. If you only have one sub, then you can only use one channel of the pre to feed it. I have two identical subs behind the mains (stereo subs) on my second system, this way I use both L & R pre outputs one to each sub, that way the stereo separation is not getting screwed with. Cheers George |
Suggest an entry - midrange Preamp (tube as well as SS) sr20022002 OP Your talking Schiit, pardon the pun, get the Schiit Freya you have 3 different modes to suit your mood/s, tube, SS, and passive. Tube or SS have nice low 75ohm output impedance, so they can drive even those stupid low 10k input power amps. No unnecessary high gain on the active circuits, so your volume won’t be at only 8 o’clock for loud, like most active preamps are. Also has the best mechanical remote volume control you can get, a 128 step relay-switched stepped attenuator with discrete switchable inputs XLR or SE and has XLR or SE outputs also. Ya can’t go wrong, if you need a active pre, but I bet you’ll like the passive best, if your source/amp matches >1:10 impedance ratio. https://www.schiit.com/products/freya-1 Cheers George |