Speaker Cables - Long Run


Greetings -

I'm stuck with having to run 20' of bi-wire cable from my Conrad Johnson Premier 12's to Vandersteen Quattro's. Have been using Van Den Hul Tea Track, some say I can do better. 

Without breaking the bank, I'm considering upgrading. 

If anyone would care to recommend a bi-wire cable that would do well in a 20' run, I would appreciate it!

Thank you!

rbschauman

All - Thank you for your suggestions!

I wish I could locate my amps next to the Quatros but simply can’t (a family matter :-) Therefore, I’ve taken notice that single wire runs will do the job and that opens up a lot of possibilities. Furthermore, thank you for recommending specific brands to consider.

Good listening,

Randy

@raysmtb1 Wrote:

You should take the extra money that you spend on the Biwire configurations and just buy regular single wire speaker cables. Buy wire makes absolutely no difference at all you’re wasting your money.

I agree! See below:

Mike

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McH2tlfj0vo

If you really want to use, bi-wire to its full potential, and do you have two sets of terminals on your speakers, Macintosh just announced that they’re selling their MC252 amplifier with hybrid drive(this is amplification designed for bi-amping) online from authorized dealers. It sounds like they may be having a sale on these amplifiers. They are the only brand I know of that makes a single amplifier with two sets of terminals that is designed as for a tube sound on your meds at highs and solid-state amplification for your lows. I have buy amped for years and can honestly say it does make a nice difference at higher volumes. If you don’t listen at higher volumes, it’s not worth the trouble. Anyways, that’s my two cents. Hope it helps.

Agree with erik-squires...the 3104 is a bargain cable that is just that.The cable needs hours of running in...but pays off with a honest timber,some of the best bass in budget/speaker wire world ive heard.

There is the canare 4s11.

Furez 4/14 quad...which is a nice constructed + super reasonable.

I make my own using CAT 8 cable. 24 gauge x 8 strands is 15 awg. 8 x 26 is 17 awg

https://www.wirebarn.com/Combined-Wire-Gauge-Calculator_ep_42.html

I use different colors for +/-, easy to know at either end.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/123675938081?hash=item1ccba90d21:g:sN8AAOSwRiFcfrB9&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8PqIOYuSmqbjqZSpym9Eiu5HAZv3H6Y077sSkKWxpR3CvYY17HeazwIE1SMw3w%2FSv2PGf0a0OY7xCTtQbp0hkK0XN8n101hnUSR0yAce%2BEzO%2BKjeDm%2FUOvGRR50ZP4OFa5tSfM1x4WyTD7C%2FzhiXlsXSGfKlQC24AXIX6S2lR%2BRslk3FKhpU4UmcVpyEPq2Bj90E2KWy3es7rRJ%2BSVg94IXxiuI%2F2U%2F20xYCHPC2xEVqOAQWKGKLzl8r9sPsxLpKi2huzxcmBIZqaTbW9%2B47m8h9Vdj%2FEn%2FEbod4il9Pn2RHm2n4Clg1ShtDrYoBErG5qw%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-zK0oz3YQ

wrap for 3 feet, tape; wrap other direction 3 feet, tape, change direction ....: avoids having to constantly flip the long cable every turn if all wrapped the same direction.

need flat?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144819754921?hash=item21b7ee17a9:g:nlMAAOSw~jBjeunY&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0NlZ8XbAFBU7mjlgTGTBJqYCMrqvNBpRMMPmq1Gu0seEHZHlrg2nsFgUrZiHjN9KZbLveYOA%2FaqV%2Fo%2Fu9vu74K0zq1TN7ITWqpEZmdwsUxl%2FvRIqAn0j8Q68xQRyniql5kC5yjks85eFDLrojccZzswBvAqeWTORhR86XY2yyFoM%2FQr%2FEI9FE1Cz1iv%2FbB2vfFm9QvT%2FafBQeu9Vom01DSG18MQZ9w%2B2ciUO0uC471RkOU7lt0L%2FOPgHQX1isqoUxY13Px8TUoG%2FFOBTNlCUQHU%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9q2lYz3YQ

cut connectors off, add spades/bananas etc.

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note: check both conductor and connectors for pure copper (you will cut off the connectors), some only the connectors are pure copper

we tend to overdo it, here is McIntosh's MC830 speaker gauge advice. (Earlier manuals noted smaller gauge).

 

The Speaker Wire

If speaker wire is not already terminated, remove

½ inch (12.7mm) of insulation from the wire end

and twist the strands together.

For runs under 25 feet (7.6m), use at least 16AWG wire.

For runs under 50 feet (15.2m) use at least 14AWG, and

forlonger runs up to 100 feet (30.5m), use 12AWG.

12AWG, being the larger wire, can be used in all

the above cases if desired.

The above guidelines are for 8 Ohm connections.

When using 4 Ohm speaker connections, subtract 2 from the gauge.

For example, a minimum gauge for a 50 foot 4 Ohm run

would be 12AWG. For guide, see Figure 07.

Generally, thicker gauge wire is better than thinner

until it doesn't fit in the Binding Post's hole.

 

I use 15 feet of Kimber 8PR in a a 3/5 biwire configuration for my Reference 3A de Capos

"Also, consider moving your amp next to your speaker and using long interconnects to your preamp. A better sounding alternative."

 

I've never understood this advice.  So, sending a line level voltage (typically a volt or two at most) for 20 feet is going to sound better than sending a speaker level voltage (at least 10, if not 50 volts depending on volume) the same distance?  It would seem the smaller the voltage, the more delicate and thus more difficult to propagate over distance. 

 

I've never bought it, despite being common audiophile 'wisdom'.  Explain.

A couple of comments….

(1);Bi-wires are a mixed bag approach. I understand that VANDERSTEEN recommends them. Fine….So does REFERENCE 3a in their manual.

BUT ….when I asked their Prez directly about his recommendations for a bi-wire cable choice,  his comments made me pause. Things change,

in essence, he said if you have hi-quality and properly shielded copper biwires with premium connectors, you MAY get a comparatively small improvement (5% ish) over single runs.

….otherwise just stick with a single premium copper single run and high quality shielded premium copper jumpers .…. that’s their current advice .

(2) I had the VDH teaTrack biwires in a prior system .,,, but not long before I dumped them. Comparatively, they suck …. Move on sir regardless .

 

 

@raysmtb1 

 

+1

 

Also, consider moving your amp next to your speaker and using long interconnects to your preamp. A better sounding alternative.

You should take the extra money that you spend on the Biwire configurations and just buy regular single wire speaker cables. Buy wire makes absolutely no difference at all you’re wasting your money.

@rbschauman ,

Even Mr. V. would recommend trying to shorten you speaker cables. If you are ever able to move to monoblocks, it would make your life much easier.

But, given the case at hand-

I would suggest buying a pair of Audioquest GO-4's, or Rocket 88's, which should be available used at a very decent price. I would recommend the newer William Tell or Robin Hood's but at that length cost will be quite high.

I would also recommend reaching out to John Rutan (audioconnection). He know his stuff regarding cables and won't steer you wrong or try to sell you something.

I also recommend joining the Vandersteen forum (on the Vandy Website), as a Quatro owner, you are welcomed to join. There are many knowledgeable owners that can help you.

Bob

@rbschauman - I used VDH cables 15 years ago, but it seems that they are resting on their laurals, since wire technology has come a long way from OFC copper in that time

I would take a look at Audio Envy - they use OCC copper, which is significantly more dynamic than OFC and even silver and they also use better insulation for a lower noise floor and improved clarity and imaging. They are also resonably priced.

To keep things reasonably priced I would also recomend using a single run and getting OCC copper jumpers. I think you will find it a more pleasing result than a biwire solution

  • I used a biwire solution many years ago and changed to the single run with a custom long jumper solution and found improvements across the board
  • I used 1/2 meter jumper wires - they work much better than the little connector plates that come with many speakers and KLE Innovations banana plugs on the jumpers

Just another approach

Regards - Steve