Single ended speaker cables or Shot gun config?

I think it’s a bit of a dice roll honestly. More cables = lower resistance but more capacitance, or something like that.

Whatever you chose to do, keep it affordable because the end result is not going to be worth as much as your speakers. :)

Now, if you were going to bi-amp... passively or actively that would be another story.

@erik_squires 

+1 …. Nailed it

One size does NOT fit all ….it is entirely a bespoke system preferred termination TBD. It’s a synergy thing AND emphasis added on the difference from bi-amping.

Some speaker brands favour bi-wiring in THEIR bespoke models ( eg VANDERSTEEN) … I’d listen if so …. whereas in my personal discussions with the prez of REFERENCE 3a for the best approach in my B system REF 3a standmount purchased from factory, it was his opinion an entirely a waste of money with no audio improvements to biwire his speakers , and just stick with hi-end OCC copper jumpers with single run cables 

Contemporaneously, CHORD CABLES dropped making biwire termination in favour of single runs and matched junpers.

Similarly, NORDOST on their website leans toward as good as you can afford single runs with jumpers … and even has a blurb on diagonal biwiring connections 

MY EXPERIENCES 

I had a full loom NORDOST FREY in a prior system. Experiments in MY system for biwiring in a trial basis was a bust. Single runs and jumpers were the preferred choice for me …. Big time ….

TAKEAWAY 

as @erik_squires pointed out, this is a bespoke hands on bespoke experimentation journey … full stop. Your speaker manufacturer manual is a preferred start with merit . Otherwise , it’s a trial and error exercise with no “rules “. 

As mentioned above, it probably depends on how your speakers are designed so you might wanna talk to them and get their take. My experience was that shotgun bi-wire provided marginal improvements not commensurate with the cost over single wire with good jumpers. I’d make sure everything else was squared away including things like power conditioning, room treatments, etc. before considering going shotgun bi-wire because they’re probably more consequential. Hope this helps at least somewhat.

Both my TAD and Vandy are biwired and sound better for it. Be sure to separate the shotgun by > 2” … An internal biwire without the magic separation is one cause for the lack of appreciation…. imo

Spring project for me will be modified Apogee for biwire…

But listening and checking w manufacturer of the speaker is excellent advice 

I would get the matching jumpers from the same cable manufacturer or make my own. I doubt you will hear the difference with a shotgun cable since one pair of binding posts will still require jumpers. Connect the way the speaker manufacturer recommends and you should be set to go. Don’t overthink it. You’ll probably spend more on a shotgun cable and depending on speakers and the rest of your system gain very little if anything at all. 

The bsss is not as critical o the ear  as the mids and highs use like a Kimber 8 or 12 TC or a Wireworld equanox for bass both are Litz cables the wire world a bit better.  and the better for the top mids and highs .

@audioman58 the bass is absolutely critical. It’s what balances out the entire presentation. Lack of bass is what causes brightness. Too much bass and you lose details. Bass also helps to create harmony in music. To think bass is not critical is a gigantic mistake.