Power Cable DIY - Please advise

I’ve done a lot of R&D work with power cables. In your short list, I would probably choose the Neotech NEP 3200 because it uses solid-core conductors. In all my testing, I achieved the best results with solid core. That being said, this particular cable uses 17awg solid-core conductors. These may be a little bit large for the sweet spot I have found (which is 20awg conductors). The larger awg conductors (16-18awg) will have rolloff in the high frequencies. Because of this, I would choose rhodium plated connectors for the terminations to give you the best amount of high frequency resolution.

On the terminations, I would actually choose Furutech as the best terminations (both in build quality and design). The FI-28 series is a very nice termination. Furutech actually connects all the case mounting screws as well as the internal cable strain-relief clamp to the ground conductor. This does add additional cost, but I see it as a small positive. The Neotech terminations do not have grounded case screws. I don’t think you need to go with the FI-50 series unless your splitting hairs and willing to spend the $$$. The Furutech FI-11 series is cheaper, but it uses phosphor bronze for the IEC and case/strain-relief screws are not grounded. The newer FI-15 Plus series are nice, but keep in mind the FI-15 does not support thicker cables (the Neotech cable above would be too thick).

I have used the previous generation Neotech rhodium connectors. These were not that great and tended to push too hard on the voltage. The Furutech connectors above are much better and much more "delicate" with the sound - at the same time giving you a lot of resolution and punch.

Oh, if the rhodium plated terminations sound a bit harsh in the mids or highs, put in a Furutech rhodium plated fuse in the equipment. I have found this smooths out the harshness. The matching of the Furutech rhodium fuse with the Furutech rhodium power cord terminations is a nice combinations. The Furutech rhodium fuse may not sound great with other power cord terminations as it can be very revealing (transparent) in the power cord signature. Other fuses (such as Isoclean or Hi-Fi Tuning) might work better with other power cords. It’s a game of component synergy.

If you choose rhodium, be prepared to be patient and burn in the power cord for 100-200 hours (I have found 250 hours is really needed for rhodium to fully calm down).

The PorterPort is probably the least expensive choice in an outlet upgrade. It’s basically a cryoed Hubbel hospital grade outlet. Keep in mind that it’s made of brass (just like most other stock outlets are). The "cryo" and the additional current capability is good though. Brass conductors will have a very fast and clean sound, but they can sound sterile in some situations. For the price, it’s a modest upgrade to stock outlets.

I have not heard the Synergistic outlets, but I have been hesitant to spend money on these since Synergistic does not tell us what material they use (brass, copper, bronze, silver, etc.). It may be very good, as Dave has said.

Typically, gold plated terminations/conductors can slow down the sound somewhat - give a more laid back or lush style sound (while still keeping high frequency response). The rhodium plated will give you resolution and detail and punch, but the rhodium can reveal flaw/problems in your other parts of the part cord (i.e. receptacle, fuse, etc.). So, yes, careful matching is important, but the rhodium sound excellent when you match up properly. Silver plating does make a very fast and clean sound, but I have found silver to be somewhat artificial (the voices and sounds just do not ring naturally). This is my own personal opinion, many people like silver.

I have found recently that un-plated copper terminations/outlets will give a blare/ringing in the midrange, so I cannot recommend these at all.

I have two systems, a computer audio system upstairs and my main home theater system. In the home theater, I am actually using the rhodium plated FI-52 for all my primary amps because it was the only 20 AMP IEC (C19) connector that was pure copper. I use rhodium FI-50 IEC for my Krell processor and rhodium FI-28 IEC for surrounds (as well as anything upstairs). I’m using  rhodium FI-28 for the male plugs everywhere. Upstairs computer audio has a Belkin power conditioner that everything plugs into (I use it as a master switch as well). It’s a modified DAC, with a modified Rane stereo line mixer going to two Yamaha studio monitors.

Downstairs, I use a Furutech GTX rhodium outlet for the Krell processor. I’m currently using Furutech FPX-Cu outlets (un-plated copper) for all amps, but I will be converting to rhodium plated GTX or FPX in the next few months.

All my power cable is hand made. I use 20awg solid-core OCC copper conductors with Teflon coating (the Neotech chassis wire) for my power cords. Each power cord has eighteen 20awg conductors -- 6 conductors per leg (hot/neutral/ground). I braid all the conductors -- each braid has a hot/neutral/ground, so that makes 6 braids for a power cable, making it a 12awg power cable in total.

All my computer audio system equipment uses Furutech fuses. Downstairs, the Krell processor uses Furutech, but all my amps use Isoclean. I will be converting those amp fuses over to Furutech in the coming months.

I’ve gone through almost every power cord situation. Many years ago, I started with stock cables, then upgraded to cheap 12awg cables. Then went to DIY cables using stranded THHN 10awg copper from home depot. Using shielding/non-shielding. Tried different solid-core conductors (16awg, 18awg, 20awg, 22awg). Tried straight/twisting/braided (braided was the best as it calms down brightness and for some reason it just sounds "right" -- it also provides a natural shield because of the counter-rotating ground/neutral conductors) Tried Hubbel hospital outlets and Wattgate connectors until I determined the brass was causing a lot of sterile/shouty character. Tried different gold-plated and rhodium plated Neotech connectors. Tried gold-plated, rhodium-plated, un-plated Furutech. In the end, I think you get what you pay for, but component synergy is a big factor.

If you’re on a budget, you could try getting the brass PorterPorts as outlets and then use a Furutech gold-plated male plug to compensate for the fast/sterile character of the Porter. Then use a rhodium plated IEC. Further tweaking could mean trying an Isoclean fuse, or a Furutech rhodium fuse. The gold-plated male would probably equalize the very forward/fast/sterile character of the Porter outlets.

That is just an idea I think might work out based on my historical experience with different types of metals. I ended up with rhodium-plated all the way through. I believe this sounds the best, but it is also the most expensive.

Technically speaking, there is nothing to stop you from wiring in some normal GTX receptacles and FI-28 male plugs to a UK 220V circuit. It should handle it just fine (it’s just a metal conductor), as long as you stay within the equivalent amperage (at 220V, you wouldn’t want more than a 10 amp circuit). Where you would get into trouble is that you would probably be doing this against local UK wiring codes. I don’t know the UK standards, but this could affect things like insurance claims if somehow this outlet caused a fire. Even though you know it’s a 220V circuit, there’s always the risk of some idiot plugging in a standard 125V device and causing that device to fry itself and possibly cause a fire or more.

Even the US has strict codes on what kind of outlets are placed. You can refer to this chart to see.

http://www.digikey.com/en/pdf/q/qualtek/nema-chart-non-locking-plugs-receptacles

When looking at normal 15 amp circuits, you can choose a 5-15 outlet or a 5-20 outlet. The 5-20 outlet has a special blade insert which allows both 5-15 and 5-20 plugs to be used. However, that 5-20 plug cannot be inserted into a 5-15 outlet (this is mainly a safety measure from the wiring code to prevent over-extending a particular 15 amp circuit and causing electrical fires/problems).

There is also a special 220V outlet in the US called 6-20. You need a special industrial plug for this and it’s really not used for electronics unless you want to use something like a brass Hubbel 220V plug. Again, the reason for this special blade configuration is to prevent someone from plugging in a normal 125V device.

As far as the outlets, if you want to do the wiring yourself and understand that it’s a 220V circuit, feel free to use a GTX on this.  Just make sure your electronic equipment is setup to accept 220 volts.  Once again, I don’t know your local UK codes and what is acceptable and what’s not. This would violate any wiring codes in the US for sure.

http://www.vhaudio.com/acreceptacles.html

VH Audio here in the USA also sells UK and Schuko outlets and plugs, if your interested. I’m sure there’s a UK source for Furutech plugs.

As far as IEC inlets are concerned, I have used the Furutech IEC inlets successfully.  I have both fused and non-fused inlets.  They are a good addition to your equipment.  VH Audio sells them as well.  I'm sure you can find them somewhere in the UK.

http://www.vhaudio.com/connectors-ac.html#IECinlets

Just make sure the dimensions of the inlet and the mounting holes line up exactly.  In my opinion, the IEC inlet upgrade gives you a subtle improvement in sound, but it's not as large of an upgrade as a excellent power cord.