Im planning on building a pair of DIY power cables, I have shortlisted a few cables and connectors, please feel free to recommend which one to purchase.
Would you mind to tell a little more about it (or do you sell them
commercially)? How tight did you braid the hot/neutral/ground triplets?
How did you put together the 6 braids to form the whole cable (braid
again, twist)?
I don't sell commercially. For the 20awg, I took one hot, one neutral and one ground and did a tight braid all the way down (looks like a kimber cable). Then repeat for each additional combination of hot/netrual/ground.
That being said, I don't know that I can officially "recommend" this design. This design does not meet UL requirements because it's basically hookup cable external that is doing high voltage.
My current recommendation for any DIY is to buy a used Audioquest NRG-4 cable and then chop/terminate with Furutech rhodium connectors. The NRG-4 is the best cable I have found that has properly sized solid-core copper conductors. It's their "perfect surface copper" which is close to OCC. The NRG-4 is only 13awg, so it might be light for a very high power amp. You can try doubling up or get one of the latest Audioquest high-current cables.
The Furutech DPS4.1 is supposed to be a really good sounding power chord. I have other Furutech power cords here that I use and like but have not heard the DPS4.1. One consideration is that for power amplifiers I typically like the largest gauge chord I can use and have tried as large as 7awg on my power-hungry amplifiers. The Furutech DPS4.1 is an 11awg sized cord and the materials and construction are different from the Neotech NEP3200 (you indicated "FP" but I believe you meant "NEP"). The Neotech cord is larger (9awg) and is one of the few cords that are actually made from individually insulated solid core wire. Solid core wire is typically not recommended for power cords due to the higher risk of failure (compared to stranded wire) when the cord is subjected to repeated bending. However, the Neotech cord gets around that by using multiple, smaller, individually insulated wires. It is also highly rated by listeners and would probably be my choice for power amplifiers compared to the DPS4.1. Regarding DIY power cords, I prefer to terminate premanufactured cable vs. using hook-up wire to make cords. I have done it both ways and for safety and uniformity (i.e., evenly spaced geometry) I like using the premanufactured cable. Regarding Rhodium connectors, you basically need to listen and decide what you like. Furutech connectors are typically awesome and as good or better than what you get on most manufactured cables. The thing about Furutech connectors is that the base metal is typically copper so the plating IME makes more of a subtle sonic flavoring than a wholesale change.
I want to build a really high-end DIY power cable for my two large monos (Electrocompaniet AW600). I have the Furutech DPS4.1 with
Furutech FI-50/52
NCF (R)
plugs to feed my mains filter. Wall socket is Furutech
FT-SWS
NCF
(Rhodium). Feeding the whole chain like this gave a really tremendous push towards resolution. Especially big orchestra and especially choir pieces are now much better than before. Regarding Rhodium there is a lot discussion regarding sounding too bright or sharpness in sound. I got a really great advice from a dealer. He suggests to always start with Rhodium from the power source, i.e. first the wall socket, then the cable from the socket to the filter/multiple socket, then the cables for other components. I did that and it actually worked well this way. I even changed the sockets in my mains filter to Furutech NCF Rhodium (Lab12 Gordian, IEC male inlet, Schuko female outlets), which again improved the sound in the same direction.
@auxinput
"All my power cable is hand made. I use 20awg solid-core OCC copper
conductors with Teflon coating (the Neotech chassis wire) for my power
cords. Each power cord has eighteen 20awg conductors -- 6 conductors per
leg (hot/neutral/ground). I braid all the conductors -- each braid has a
hot/neutral/ground, so that makes 6 braids for a power cable, making it
a 12awg power cable in total."
For the power amps, the DPS4.1 is a little too expensive for me (I need 3m). One of my favorites would be the Neotech FP-3200, but then I read about your DIY mains cable using braided Neotech 20AWG solid core, which sounds very exciting.
Would you mind to tell a little more about it (or do you sell them commercially)? How tight did you braid the hot/neutral/ground triplets? How did you put together the 6 braids to form the whole cable (braid again, twist)? The Neotech 3200 is built around a core (fiber filled PVC), did you do similarly? A photo would be awesome. How much wire do you need to get 1m of final braided cable? How would you compare the sound of your cable with the Neotech FP-3200?Sorry for the many questions. I really would like to build this cable, because I think this would fit my amps perfectly. Electrocompaniet suggests to use unshielded power cable for them. In terms of plugs, I would use Rhodium plated, either the Neotech ones or the Furutech FI-28/38. Again, the FI50/52 are too costly.
I'm awaiting my IeGo 8055 pure copper (non-plated) IEC and Schuko plugs early next week, and am excited to see whether they'll sonically improve over a my Home Depot-style plugs (with brass connectors). The IeGo plugs are to be used with Viablue's X-40 bulk power cable (11 AWG), which arrived yesterday, and I'm actually trying it out right now with the current plugs to my Belles SA-30 power amp . My earlier power cable used here is twisted 15 AWG solid-core installation wire, and the Viablue bulk cable makes for an interesting sonic change. Even though they're now brand new and burn-in will likely have some say on their further development, for which reason I should perhaps be cautious with descriptions on their sound as is, the first impressions pointed to a "flatter" and more ripped/clear bass respons, meaning the earlier power cords by comparison showed some "tummy" in the upper bass region, making deeper male vocals and lower piano notes sound somewhat wooly/fat and undefined. In a sense this tendency continues up through the midrange, which through the Viablue's is now more focused, and yet relaxed and freely presented - indeed quite impressive. The high frequencies seem differently illuminated, and appear more resolved and open. Combined this makes for a more insightful and revealing presentation. Another sonic feature with the Viablue cables I noticed rather quickly is that they sound less congested, and seem to have a very firm grip on the sound; complex and highly energetic music like Jon Hopkins' The Vessel now sounds more effortless, coherent and stable/in-place, as if the sonic sphere in front of you is smoother in shape and more of-a-whole - a thrilling experience, to say the least.
Downsides with the implementation of the Viablue's? Difficult to say. Very first impressions had the sound somewhat monochromatic and slightly "stiff," and at present they don't quite seem to loosen up fully - perhaps this will change over time as they have more hours (and the IeGo plugs) on them. Importantly they don't in any way sound lean, edged or tipped-up. Where my old installation wires were subjectively a bit warmer/comfier but also more fuzzy around the edges and flatter sounding (i.e.: 2D-like), the Viablue's are less smeared, more balanced and more insightful, and with a sense of depth in the soundstage (where it occurs) that is beguiling. So, while the Viablue's could be said to be tighter sounding, they're actually fuller (i.e.: again, less congested) and more relaxed in their presentation. I could want for a slightly more colorful and a wee bit less dry sound as is, but later next week the IeGo pure cupper plugs will be added, and combined with more burn-in we'll see where this leads.
Your best options could vary depending on which equipment you plan to power. In general, front end equipment such as servers, players, and DACs do not need a large a gauge as large power amplifiers. However, some would argue that anything over about 14awg is overkill anyway. The bulk cables by Furutech and Nanotec are supposed to be quite good and I have successfully used various Furutech bulk power cables including the FP-3TS20 for front-end gear and FP-Alpha (unshielded) for power amplifiers. I have heard from somebody I trust for audio impressions that Furutech's new nano-liquid treated power cables sound very good. My most recent DIY efforts have included using Western Electric vintage wire, which I find to sound good for both speaker cables and power cables. My large SS Class A amplifiers and SS preamp sound good with 7 awg power cables made from four runs of WE10ga wire that are twisted and connected in a star-quad configuration with two 10awg wires per pole. I use a tinned copper braid shield connected only at the source end, and then two more WE10ga wires spirialed outside of the braid shield and connected to ground at each end. The cords are terminated with Furutech FP-11 Cu connectors. I have no doubt this is overkill and that a simple twisted pair of the WE10ga wire (it comes in twisted pairs) plus ground would work just fine for virtually any amplifier.
Has anyone compared the Furutech Fi-11 (g) with the Fi-15 (g) male and iec on the same AC cable before? Which would have more heft at the bottom and less bright in the treble? Thanks.
What did you end up getting? It's funny, because I chimed in about the connectors while @geoch was going on about yarbo cable. I'm getting ready to build another power cable and went to order the same cable I used before and it turns out it was yarbo cable. Ha! So I definitely can recommend their stuff. I bought the 9000 series and it is very well built and the conductors are high quality rectangular copper with PE insulation. They also claim to be OFC and mono crystal, but I can't confirm those claims. Based on how awesome the cable is built though, I'd have to say I trust them.
Any of you guys have experience using the Sablon Audio Gran Corona or the later model Reserva? Also interested to know your views about Oyade P004/C004 connectors.
"audiophonics" (France) for Yarbo "Kempelectroniks" (Netherlands) for Iego "HiFi Power" (Greece) for Furutech "Aurion.gr" (Greece) for Synergistic Research
I live in Greece and the last 2 years we have capital controls here so, individuals can’t send money outside our borders. Every time, I have to find a local trader (nexusacoustics) and ask for my needs.
Where do you purchase your stuff from? could you you please give me links to the IeGO connectors, Yarbo cables & Furutech outlets. You can PM me if you wish.
I've just ordered 4 pairs of IEGO 8095 (Schuko/IEC) The receptacles are Furutech FT-SWS(R) schuko wall socket I'm in Europe so not the GTX I've mentioned & not (G). Sorry, I've bought them many years back, so I forgot the specifics. You can experiment with Yarbo without bleeding, but be very serious about the plugs. I don't mean to spend more than the 8095 price of course. One thing I have to say about P-004/C-004: They are good. Very good in resolving all the nuances, very detailed, very speedy, they are not compromise dynamics, but body fullness is not complete, and somewhat delicate and fragile in tonality. Seems are very revealing, very demanding upon everything in the chain. In most systems are not compatible due to their naked nature. I can't name this as transparency, as something is always missing from timing due to poor harmonics and leaving something to be desired in tonal integration. But are much more better than all Oyaides & all Furutechs. I don't think that any system would be compromised by 004, but as they are not the end & all for a quality power cable, for the price I'm not recommending them.
Sorry about your deleted post, I can understand the bitterness. However, let me assure you that when I started this thread I had not made up my mind at all, infact even right now I'm confused about which cable to use. So many suggestions and advice from good individuals like yourself & then too many variables like a cable for solid state amps, pricing, quality & origin of copper etc.
At least I'm sure which receptables & connectors I want. My shortlist is very much alike to your setup except the Yarbo cables which I'm looking into now :)) they are surely much cheaper than the others I must say.
I've replaced most of my expensive power cables with Nanotec #308 (thanks to @fork) and Furutech
FP-S55N
/ FP-S032N terminated with
Furutech
NCF connectors so will report once everything settles. So far so GOOD.
I have CPT Equi=Core 300s and performance is AVERAGE in my system so instead of selling, I decided to modify them. I'll report once back from modification. Got my fingers crossed :-):-)
Oh really? You know, I don't give a s**t about it's origin. People does not look for advice. Never! They have already decide and just asking to confirm. Only if they give a chance & listen for a minute.... It seems they deserve this average they seek for. I compare the 7000 with cables up to $3000 and it was more faithful. I sold them all & substitute for the 7000 (sources) & 8000 (amplifiers - receptacles). I've spend much more for AC plugs than for power cords, but even this was not necessary, as I've found Sonar Quest & Copper Color. But who cares? Nobody is listen. You can not force someone to escape from the industry's prison, they must find the will-power to walk this path and this means, they must PAY many times to start suspecting. I can't name brands of comparison here, I've done it and authorities delete my posts.
Yarbo is indeed a German cable. I use the Yarbo 9000 in one of my systems and is currently my favourite inexpensive power cord. You can get it from Chinese web sites and it is the real thing. They buy it by the spool (which you can do) and they connect various connectors at different price points. The cable with good quality ends of your choice (carbon/aluminium/beryllium etc) can be had for about $200 CDN.
Balanced, really balanced. No frequencies exaggerated or dropped out. The cable I was using most recently in the digital front end was an IsoTek Evo3 Premier and it emphasized the top end a bit. The Nanotec in comparison was quieter (lower overall db) but smoother, more tonally balanced and provides better spatial resolution in my set up. My favorite low-mid priced power has been the Shunyata Diamondback which is out of production and I thought came remarkably close to their much more expensive cables in side by side comparisons. I think the Nanotec #308 is noticeably better than the Diamndback and I am planning to use for everything in my system when I can get around to ordering and building some more. Hope that helps.
knownothing, I have been curious about the
Nanotec #308 "Wonderful" Power Cable and the associated
SP#777 GREAT speaker cable. I believe they are infused with gold/silver nano liquid similar to Furutech's FP-S035N and S020N power cables. I have heard good things about those Furutech cords from a manufacturer I know, who also harvests the wire internal to the power cord casings for hook-up wire and for speaker wire. I understand you like them a lot, can you describe how they sound?
Furutech FP-alpha 3 has been superseded by the FP TCS31...
Interesting. The site you reference is a third-party site and not Furutech's own site....where they still show the FP-Alpha 3 as one of their products. FP-Alpha 3 is also still listed for purchase at Partsconnexion but I noticed The Cable Company doesn't carry it anymore and I do remember reading something about a supplier of OCC wire being no longer in business, which is maybe why Furutech started with the Triple-C wire. The FP TCS31 is a slightly smaller gauge and doesn't use PE insulation so it may sound a bit different. If you want FP-Alpha 3, try Partsconnexion since maybe it is no longer available once existing stock is gone. I will not be selling mine.
True that electricity hasn’t changed, but ways to combat harsh emi/rfi conditions are much better than what they used to be a decade ago. Furutech has got some serious data related to this topic, no doubt they are one of the world leaders when it comes to audiophile cabling at a relatively affordable price.
yes, I do intend to use the Flavor 4 for power amps...
The Furutech FP-alpha 3 has been superseded by the FP TCS31...
I have built several cords and used several premade budget cables from AudioQuest, Shunyata and IsoTek. My current favorite, and not by a small margin, is a DIY unit using the new Nanotec #308 "Wonderful" Power Cable and Furutech FI-11 G connectors. I got connectors off eBay and the wire here:
The #308 is a new wire made with some metallurgy tricks and is not shielded but I find works equally well with amplifier and digital source. I am currently using with Main Cables R Us linear power supply upgraded with Furutech rhodium IEC outlet, Furutech rhodium fuse and silver DC cable driving an Arcam IrDAC. The Nanotec #308 was a revelation with no apparent weaknesses.
In fact I like the sound of Nanotec continuously cast wires with the silver-gold emulsion so much I’m using their rca interconnects for both analog and digital front ends in my main system.
I wouldn't worry about timing - electricity hasn't changed. The wires I use are probably 40 years old!
Based on my experience, I would probably consider the Flavor 4 for power amps only, and not for front end gear. The conductors are 12 awg so two per pole results in a hefty 9 awg per pole.
I would probably look at the Furutech FP-3TS20 for front end gear. The
Furutech FP-Alpha 3 is also good for power amps. As others have mentioned, the Neotech cords are not bad either and I also have a couple of them, made with Furutech plugs/iecs. I would probably not shield PCs used for power amps, and maybe not even those used with preamps. Definitely use shielded cables with your digital gear.
very well explained, thank you. The one thing I'm sceptical about the flavour 4 cord is the timeline. It's almost a decade since it was introduced & as someone mentioned it uses Belden cable (not sure, but experienced users could vet this claim). Nevertheless, I cannot undermine the expertise of CVH, constructing audiophile cables is his passion & I have great respect for individuals who are driven by passion.
Our hobby is ever evolving and I'm sure Furutech was not sleeping on its ass all this while :))
The VH Audio Flavor 4 cord, if constructed with Chris' purpose-built wire, does in fact consist of four conductors. The star-quad configuration consists of connecting the two conductors opposite (not next to) each other for each polarity. For example, if the four conductors corresponded to 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock, then the 12 and 6 o'clock conductors would be connected together for one polarity (load or neutral) and the 3 and 9 o'clock conductors would be connected together for the other polarity.
The purpose of the star quad geometry is to reduce inductance - a good thing for power cords and speaker cables
The ground is typically twisted/spiraled around the four conductors in the opposite direction that the conductors are twisted/spiraled. If a shield is used, then it is recommended to place the ground outside of the shield. It is also recommended to space the shield a bit away from the conductors but it can be difficult to decide what "spacing" material to use so many would simply place the shield directly over the pvc sheath carrying the conductors without using spacer material. Finally, connect the ground wire at both ends and the shield only at the plug end not at the iec end.
I was sceptical of any differences in sound due to power cables, but experimentation has shown me they exist.. It's always amusing when people have strong opinions on things they've never tried.
Here's a link for the "jellyfish"power cable that I think is the best value: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Leader-Hospital-Grade-Power-IEC320/dp/B01C7NOPNA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&... I use this gray cable with the Sonarquest connectors on my system. The VH flavor power cords are using the Belden wire. You might want to experiment with the Sonarquest plugs on this wire. I sold some of my cables to a guy using the Signal Magic cable,which I believe is the same Belden wire with Wattgate plugs. He thinks my cable with either the silver or copper connectors is better. It's more open,makes a deeper soundstage,and has better bass definition.
I've experimented in making powercords. I started with the Wattgate connectors. They sounded ok. I made a DH Labs Power plus cord first. This cable is dark,rolls of the highs,and makes decent bass,although it might come across slightly bloated in the midbass. If you want to tame a bright system down a bit,and yet increase the soundstage depth,this cable seems to do this.It really sounds good on my Klipsch Rw12d subwoofer. As for connectors,I've found cheap Sonarquest made in China that sound considerably better. They're supposed to be ofc copper,plated with different metals. I've done many hours of experimenting with the silver,copper,gold,and rhodium,plated models. I never believed all the stuff people reported about power cords in the past.But this testing mad a believer out of me. The silver sounds the best to me,extending both ends. The copper rolls of both ends just a bit,but makes a deeper soundstage with more midrange. The instrument focus is a bit better also. The gold is a bit warmer and rounder sounding. The upper midrange picks up a bit. The bass is not as defined,is warmer and rounded. The Rhodium plated one is kind of hard to peg. It's close to the red copper,but the soundstage is different. The bass is not as sharp as the copper,but a bit better than the silver(though doesn't reach as deep).The rhodium and the copper are probably the most neutral.
These ac plugs are relatively cheap.The silver is the most expensive and harder to find. The Ebay seller for these is here:
These connectors have an influence on stock power cords as well. So I can imagine you might try them out on your current aftermarket cord,if they are using the Wattgates. I've tried these cables out on other systems as well.The results don't seem to be limited to my Emotiva system. The main wire I'm using these days is the quail 14awg gray hospital grade cable. There are reviews out there as this cable was referred to as the "iron lung jellyfish"power cord.Better cables on Amazon has a 15' length for under $20. This power cord is brighter and more detailed than the volex/belden cable.It also makes considerably more lower bass. If you want to bring down the brightness,go with the DH Labs Power Plus with the Sonarquest plugs. It's worth the time to make your own cords because you'll save so much money. Personally,I think it's ridiculous to spend hundreds of dollars on a single power cord thats under 6 ft. of wire.
I would consider these fore mentioned improvements in sound associated with psychoacoustics. If you think you hear an improvement in the sound, that's all that matters. I remember back in the seventies, probably before a lot of you were even born, people were talking about how placing concrete blocks on top of power amps and pocket change on top of speakers, in a certain order, improved their sound. I think some, if not all of these were in jest, but hey-if you can hear the difference, go for it. I think the single most important, but least considered improvement most people can make in their sound, is room acoustics. We all have our opinions. Some are worth exactly what they cost you to read them. I usually don't chime in, but do enjoy reading and considering everyone's opinion. Merry Christmas/Happy Holidays/Hanukkah/Festivus/kwanzaa... ....
You mentioned interest in doing a Flavor 4 power Cable. I can recommend an improvement to that design, which will control the radiated fields and the coupling of external radiated fields much better. Use a Quad-Star implementation of the internal conductors (2 wires for hot and 2 wires for Neutral) twisted together.
I built his DIY version of that cord using the twisted pair wire he sells and trying both Furutech F1-11 gold and bare copper connectors. Very nice cord with either connector, but the gold plated Furus were just a little too polite in my application and I preferred the copper. I still have a slight preference for the bulk Neo-based cord in my system, but if you can get a good price on a used Flavor 4, it would be very hard to go wrong with it. If you find the gold connectors to be a bit too relaxed or warm sounding, you can always replace them with some copper or rhodium plugs and still save a bundle of money over a sonically comparable big dollar cord.
thank you for your advise, you're right it can get a bit confusing with so many choices and individual opinions. However, I think I'm on the right track with Furutech, Neotech & iego on my shortlist :)
"Another comment, based on my experience, IEGO male gold connector is not a good match with Furutech GTX-R. It creates much less dynamic sound. The best match to keep better dynamic is to use GTX-R with Fi-28R and Fi-25R or even FI-15R! Matching Outlet metal with Male Plug is very important. "
Agreed, So perhaps an IEGO 8095 RH/AG would be a better match with the GTX-R?
As for connectors, kinda difficult to go wrong with either. However, I believe that Furutech is building the best AC connector on the market right now. That would be their top-of-the-line units (NCF) at about $300.00 each. But, I'm not willing to go through that expense, hence the IeGo is the clear alternative.
I have to take the plunge and find it out for myself :) Which one would specifically suit my system.
Would it be fair to say, The gold over copper also seems like the crowd favourite. It has a nice presentation that is easy to enjoy on the majority of systems. Quite a bit of resolution, but nothing over the top.
But If someone wants to go all out, the rhodium over silver or copper would be the choice. The Rhodium connector is touted to be very revealing and very quiet. That is the thing about Rhodium, it rejects noise better than gold but is not as conductive.
So, in a nutshell, one will have greater resolution and extension with the RH/AG unit but it won't be quite as smooth and relaxed as the AU/CU combo.
@davidclarke: Good grief. Thought I'd time-warped back to the 1990's with the "100 feet of Romex" argument. Give it a rest.
@narcissus: I've tried quite a number of different DIY recipes with differing connectors, wire, and designs. My trials have been with the less expensive Furutech connectors (F1-11's in copper, gold, and rhodium), the Sonar Quests in copper and gold as well as a few unremarkable Hubbels and Home Depot specials. Wire has been everything from gold plated silver to Home Depot THNN to some supposedly 2 billion 9's purity copper I picked up somewhere a long time ago to Neotech PCOCC of differing gauges . At the end of the day, the best sounding cord I've constructed was also the simplest: bulk Neotech NEP-3002 Mk 3 terminated with Furutech F1-11 unplated copper plugs with the outer shield connected to the earth (safety) ground at the wall plug end only (the safety ground wire itself is obviously connected at both plugs). The Furutech plugs at every level are very nicely constructed, but you pay for it. I can't relate anything sonically on their more expensive offerings as they were a little too rich for my blood (although I did spring the $$ for their GTX-D rhodium outlet and have been very happy with it). I also like the Sonar Quest copper (unplated) connectors. I've shied away from their plated offerings as they use a layer of nickel plating on the copper prior to the final plating. I don't like nickel in power connections (or interconnect/speaker connections) as it adds a layer of glare to my ears. That's personal bias and preference and not a proclamation, so take it FWIW. Some say that unplated copper connectors can be zippy and tizzy, which I find to be true as well UNTIL the connectors have been well broken in at which time that trait goes away entirely (I have an AudioDharma cable cooker that significantly speeds up the process....without having to listen to it). Hope this helps a little and doesn't confuse things more. :)
@handymann Like you, I'm lost why this last/first piece of power conductor can have an impact on sound. Several www searches have not answered that question - people write about this subject but I did not find any explanation that would describe the physics behind the effect. Just a few days ago out of curiosity I started experimenting in my system with a DIY power cord and replaced a Black Sand Violet Z1 MK2 power cord. The results shocked me - because they were not just noticeable, but extremely critical. Largest impact had CD playback. The DIY power cord produced a relaxed and analog-like sound from CD that I had not yet experienced (in my system from CD). After this first wake up experiment I started to build cables for other components with similar effects in overall impact on sound. I even burned a CD for a friend to demo the difference - recorded from vinyl onto CD I changed power cords of phonostage and CD recorder and left everything else unchanged. A/B tracks on CD can be changed with the press of a button and you an easily hear the difference. I'll be glad to burn a demo CD - anyone interested? However, my point is that just because nobody was able yet to scientifically explain a certain phenomenon it does not mean that it does not exist. If scientists like Einstein would have thought this way, we would still be drawing on cave walls. Curiosity is the fuel on the way to wisdom ...
Through the years, I have read all the posts concerning expensive power cords and such. We all want better sound, but I can't get my head around how an expensive power cord in series with house romex wiring and power amps and such can possibly improve the sound. Good quality receptacles and plugs, as well as the proper gauge of wire IS important, but putting a short piece of expensive wire in series between your power source and your equipment and expecting an improvement in the quality of sound, is lost on me.
- NEP-3200 has a better pronounced lower side of mid-range frequencies. This fact not only in cables but also in preamp/amp gives that impression that you hear a strong bass. High Frequencies are less pronounced. IEGO male 8085 is better suited for this cable, because it has more open HF compared to Furutech male plugs. FI-28 Rhodium gave more HF but created a less balanced sound. Using Neotech male Gold connector with their narrow sizes is a hassle on assembling for this hefty PC.
- I used NEP 3002 and 3003, and found 3003 is more open especially for front-end and preamps. I bought 3 Neotech PC and connector that I assembled my self. There is direction on this PC to put IEC which needs to be aware of. They are very dynamic and are better that those High-Fidelity Power cords ($3000) that had for a demo! In my experience, spending money on high-priced power cords is non-sense.
Another comment, based on my experience, IEGO male gold connector is not a good match with Furutech GTX-R. It creates much less dynamic sound. The best match to keep better dynamic is to use GTX-R with Fi-28R and Fi-25R or even FI-15R! Matching Outlet metal with Male Plug is very important.
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