Over the good part of this past year I’ve been beta testing a new tweak, the name of which is "Total Contact." Its a hi-bred graphene contact enhancer that is different from all other contact enhancers that have come and gone for one reason or another. I’m not new to these contact enhancers, having had quite a bit of experience with a product developed by the late Brian Kyle and his "Quick Silver" contact enhancer. The "Total Contact" is different ... a LOT different.
"Total Contact" is graphene based and is not a vibration control. It eliminates micro-arching between two contacts. Micro-arching, much like Micro-vibration smears the sound in our stereo systems. Its the type of distortion that we don’t know is there .... until we eliminate it. There is no break-in as we know it. The sound is improved right off the bat, but what you hear is only a smidgen of what’s to come.
I tested three generations of "TC," each of which was an improvement over the previous incarnation. The final mix was cryogenitically treated and made for a more effective, much smoother application. It comes in a large hypodermic needle type plunger containing 1.5 ml of product and includes a instructional DVD and an application brush.
The application should be applied with a very thin coat to all of your electrical connections .... from your cartridge pins to your power cords. I did my entire system, including the ends of my fuses.
Upon initial application, you will notice an improvement in clarity, correctness of tonal balance and a more overall organic sound. But ... that is just scratching the surface of what this magic paste does. As it cures, the improvements become more apparent. Much more!
There are two real break-through events that happen almost to the day with "Total Contact," one at four weeks and another at eight weeks . At four weeks, you’ll get a real jump in clarity and overall improvement. That’s only a taste though of what’s to come at eight weeks. At eight weeks your system’s focus will make a jump in SQ that is so real - its surreal.
After 40 years in the hobby, and a total tweak nut, I have never heard anything that does what this graphene paste does. The see-through clarity at eight weeks becomes simply amazing. The "paste" eventually cures into a kind of polymer plastic and it seems that the sound improves with each listening session. So, its important that you leave your contacts alone for the duration. If you’re the type of person that continually switches wires in and out, you’ll have to re paste until enough time has elapsed to get "the cure."
The only problem I had was with the first batch and that had to do with shorting out a tube pin in the line stage. Use the "TC" very sparingly on tube pins, if at all. I only had problems with the line stage tube pins. The Amp, CD Player and Phono Stage has had no tube pin problems at all.
Tim Mrock, one of our fellow A’goners, is the developer of the product. Its taken Tim 15 years and several patents to get it right. Tim has "pasted" every electrical contact he can find in his audio system, all of the switches in his circuit breaker box, every contact in his car ... and has used it in commercial applications such as hospital circuit breakers, surgical lights ... and other places where efficiency and long life of electrical components are deemed important.
This product is highly recommended to anyone who truly wants to get the most out of his/her audio systems. There’s enough product in each tube to do at least two audio systems as it just takes a very thin coat on each application to be effective. The last tube was enough to do my system twice and then a friend’s system this past weekend.
Frank
PS: There were a couple of other A’goner beta testers of this product as well. Hopefully, they will chime in here with their experiences for comparison. I "pasted" both of Steve Fleschler’s systems a few days ago, perhaps he will comment on his results too. We forgot to paste Steve’s power cords though, so there’s a lot more to be had from Steve’s two fantastic systems.
"
Ka-Ching! I'd like a report on sales of this stuff after 4 or 8 weeks ..."
Tell you what Wolfie ... I'll put a word in to Tim Mrock for you. I'm sure he'd be delighted to give you a copy of his sales ledgers, especially in view of how kind you've been throughout this entire thread.
I was ready to place an order but the listing on audiogon says that “this listing has ended”. Further I sent two questions today around 12:00 pm and about 20 minutes ago and have not received a response. Anyone know what is going on?
@resolution1 We never received the first one at 12;00 pm. Responded to the last one within a couple of minutes after receiving notification. We were on the phone earlier today with Audiogon, this stuff was supposed to be sorted out. My apologies very very frustrating. The listing should auto reload, so there is no lag in the offering. Please bear with us! Shipping will be on me for the trouble in your case.
First, I needed to know the following. Does a Total Contact treated connection that is disconnected need to be cleansed of the previous Total Contract treatment and then re treated prior to being reconnected? or does it needs to be retreated at all?
Second, I re check at audiogon listing and it does seem to be active again.
@resolution1 If the connection is broken it will not need reapplication, this can be done once. Multiple disconnections may require touch up only, not a complete redo.
Earlier this month I ordered two cd mats from Herbies: the Super Black Hole version. I have treated one with Total Contact, using the tip of the brush to penetrate the recessed areas on the top of the mat.
I let the treated mat sit for a few days. I use a tweezers to handle the mat and move it on and off of cds, as needed. I use the tip of the tweezers to press the mat to the label of the cd, when in place.
I am hearing an improvement in the sound, when using the treated mat, compared to the untreated mat.
I just treated the spades on the amp end of my speaker cables. At least in my experience, the increase in transparency, clarity and musicality is obvious right after you apply TC. If it gets even better over time, then I am going to be one happy camper 😁
My lazy side is not excited about taking apart and treating all the connections in my system, but each one I do increases my motivation.
Genuine skepticism and caution certainly have their place, but I struggle to understand and tolerate those who just enjoy raining on someone else's parade. I guess the old saying “misery loves company” applies.
When somebody experiences something good, and shares it, I want to be happy for them and with them, not deny that it's possible, ridicule them, question their motives, or hammer on potential negatives (real or imagined).
@tommylion I agree with you and have said so on many threads here. I am not ready to try TC yet as I am invested in an amplifier modification project right now. One thing at a time.
In what possible way is TC a treatment for the top of a CD damping disc. I have that exact disc damper and use it every day. Why would someone put a contact enhancer on top of a disc damper whose sole purpose is to damp resonance as discs spin in the disc transport? Isn’t that a waste of TC?
But hey! this is still America and you can do what you will with a product you purchase. I like to think I have a pretty good imagination regarding our audio endeavors, but that one is a bridge too far.
If sgordon1 would like to explain his logic, I am certainly willing to read what he says and think about it.🤔
On the cd topper I would say that the change is electromagnetic shielding or absorption and it could also be absorbing stray light bouncing off the cd edges and bouncing around inside the chassis. Less light emission inside means there will be less error correction required and and a less corrupted signal which means better sound. I have a cd topper that covers the top and the edges to virtually eliminate light scatter being read. Tom
On the subject of micro-arcing, I have very little technical knowlege, but the concept makes sense to me. Contact surfaces are not perfectly smooth, but have tiny pits, spaces or gaps. Why wouldn't arcing occur in them, and why couldn’t it have an effect on the musical signal?
theaudiotweak On the cd topper I would say that the change is electromagnetic shielding or absorption and it could also be absorbing stray light bouncing off the cd edges and bouncing around inside the chassis. Less light emission inside means there will be less error correction required and and a less corrupted signal which means better sound. I have a cd topper that covers the top and the edges to virtually eliminate light scatter being read.
A couple of things. One is that much of the scattered light problem occurs right next to the laser on the data side of the disc.which is why coloring the data side near the spindle hole of the CD is effective. Of course, one could line the entire inside of the transport with absorbing material, you know, like turquoise colored paper.
>>>>>>Black actually is not that great an absorber of infrared light (above 700 nm) which is invisible. Colors don’t absorb outside the visible part of the spectrum. And turquoise or green absorbs visible RED scattered light, which is somewhat below the nominal wavelength of the CD laser, 780 nm. So what about the scattered light above red, above around 700 nm? The band between say, 700 nm and 850 nm.
The turquoise won’t work for near infrared. Nor will black. Not to mention the color black should never be used on the label side or the outer edge, only on the inner edge, the part that touches the spindle. It should also be mentioned that the color of the CD label graphics also affects the sound. Thus, a lot of experimentation is actually necessary to arrive at the ideal combination of colors for each CD, depending on colors used in the label graphics. Too much experimentation for this dude. I just use Green, Black and Orange.
The metal topper is painted with AVM on top..so thats blue grey. The inside and lip that covers the top and surrounds the lip is painted green..I still have a few of these and the tint of green makes a subtle difference. Tom
The laser’s real wavelength, the one that’s 780 nm, is invisible and not affected by color. Not by green, turquoise, blue or black, etc. The best you can do with green or turquoise is absorb some of the lower sideband - the stuff below 700 nm. It’s a cheap laser and even cheaper photodetector so just about anything that can get through will get through. Anyone not follow raise your hand.
So the green may absorb the refracted light bouncing around under the cap and case. The refracted output of 780nm becomes a different wave length when refracted and green is absorbing that newly minted wavelength? Tom
The wavelength of the CD laser is nominal 780 nm, solidly in the near infrared spectrum. But the laser is not monochromatic, it has a bandwidth due to its quantum nature and also to its cheapness. That bandwidth probably extends from, say, 650 nm to 900 nm,with most of the energy centered at 780 nm. The reason green or shades of green works is because it absorbs the scattered laser light in the region 650 to 700 nm, the red portion. If you could see inside the transport while the CD was playing you would see the color red, because as I said the lower sideband of the light is red. Most of the light inside the transport is invisible, I.e., greater than 700 nm. Even with some absorption of red light most of the rest of the scattered laser light is free to travel around inside the transport and perhaps get into the photodetector. The photodetector will accept any light within its bandwidth that is more than 75% of full reflected power. At least that’s how I see it.
So if you can reduce and or absorb the amount of refracted light in the case then you will have fewer false positives for the error correction to mishandle and make a mountain out of a mole hill..Less correction needed the better the sound. Tom
With all our words exchanged it seems to me that those of us who still use a cd player or a transport should consider painting the inside top lid green or any other internal chassis surface they can comfortably recolor. Your thoughts on this color swap? I also have found that the same color with a different paint finish affects the overall sound inside a room and so I think a flat green finish will sound different than a satin or gloss finish inside a cd player.
We recently adjusted the spectral balance in one of our Energy Room’s by changing some painted wall sections that were flat to an eggshell finish. This after some different flooring was installed. Nice tweak out it was.
I have my transport lid off now as I have been using Total Contact on connections and allowing those to air dry and acclimate. Now may be a good time to paint. Tom
Uh, I’ve only had a turquoise tray masking product for like 12 years. Hel-loo! Do you think these hands have been soaking in Ivory Liquid? 😛 As you can probably image I have a similar product for Blu-ray discs.
Pop quiz: But what about the invisible scattered light, the stuff that’s not amenable to colors?
Extra credit - guess what color the tray masking is for Blu-ray,
The tray assembly and surrounding parts have been treated for years. My comments were to color not just the tray but all the other surfaces that refract light. The whole damn innards of the chassis if possible. Tom
theaudiotweak The tray assembly and surrounding parts have been treated for years. My comments were to color not just the tray but all the other surfaces that refract light. The whole damn innards of the chassis if possible.
Actually the trays haven’t been treated for years, except by me. Or if they have, not correctly or not completely. I’m not referrring to Marigo CD mats and similar. Maybe you don’t understand the question.
But what about the invisible light? I’m not getting anybody to bite. By the way you’re using the word refract incorrectly. I already suggested treating the entire inside of the transport. Let’s see, was it yesterday? 😀 Besides, you still have the sticky problem of the invisible scattered light.
Your comment about the (pitting) on surfaces that are not visible to the naked eye and how that could be related to "micro-arcing" makes sense to me as well. I remember seeing a magnified gold plated RCA jack in an ad for CAIG I believe, years ago that showed this (pitting)....this being one reason for using their products.
theaudiotweak oh Geoff you ass ume everyone else is ignorant..We made our own mats years ago that address many issues no others ever did or have since. I treated my entire PS audio transport tray and laser housing long ago with paint and AVM
>>Mats are exactly not (rpt not) what I’m talking about. Don’t you read comprehensively? Still no answer on the subject of the invisible light. I guess you decided to ignore the question. The AVM stuff is irrelevant as it doesn’t address scattered light.
If the laser is ever so slightly out of alignment or focus their will be refraction of that light ..Are the pits on the disc optically perfect in shape? Will a scratch on the disc not refract light? You understand refraction the same way you don’t understand shear waves in solids. Just forget IT.
No need for anger. We all understand your shear waves. 🙄 I don’t scratch my discs. Besides, that’s a silly argument since the whole issue involves light reflection not refraction. It’s the reflected scattered light that gets into the photodetector. It’s reflected light inside the transport that makes it glow red. Duh!
Yesterday while listening and enjoying great sound I was trying to describe what I was in the midst of. The sound was emanating into a real acoustic space as if the notes were coming from real instruments in a music hall. Imagine one note being launched from a single point but as soon as it leaves the instrument in total focus it becomes spherical in shape and the content of air around that single note fills the room. Now image the content of a whole selection of music containing those point sources that are nearly 360 degrees round of the real event..For now that is my best and most accurate description.Tom
”The tray assembly and surrounding parts have been treated for years. My comments were to color not just the tray but all the other surfaces that refract light. The whole damn innards of the chassis if possible.”
>>>>>Tom, no offense but you are confusing the terms diffraction, refraction and reflection. Refraction occurs when light passes through a different medium such as when light passes from air through glass. Diffraction occurs when light strikes a slit or sharp obstacle such as a diffraction grating. Reflection occurs when light strikes a flat surface such as a mirror or when the CD laser strikes the flat metal layer of the CD. It’s the reflected light that enters the photodetector. Obviously it’s a little more complicated with the pits and lands. The CD red/infrared laser undergoes refraction passing through the CD polycarbonate layer, and changes wavelength, the light changes back to its original wavelength when it leaves the polycarbonate and reenters the air.
You still haven’t answered the fundamental question - what about the invisible light? You can paint the entire CD player turquoise and the majority of the CD laser scattered will not (rpt not) be absorbed by the turquoise color. It’s invisible!
Treated the AC plugs of my CD transport, DAC and amp last night (pre is passive), and am enjoying the fruit. As I said previously, the three words I would use to describe my experience so far with TC are: transparency, clarity and musicality.
In spite of how this product was rolled out to us, I always had interest in it. This interest continues to grow.
I was thinking.. if I had TC at home right now, where would I first try it? I think I’d begin on my AC outlets..then go from there. Does this make sense to anyone?
How long does the included application brush last? Is there a some easy to buy alternative?
I’ve only done plugs, and I wouldn’t feel safe or comfortable treating outlets myself at this point, so I’ll let others address this further. But, to answer your question, yes, that makes sense to me, if you are comfortable with, and capable of doing it.
As far as the brush, it looks to me like something that would be readily available at, say, an art supply store or website.
I would start at the breaker box but that's were I draw a line. My thought has always been to start at the beginning then expand. Thanks for responding.
Just a few words of caution when I see the words “breaker box” above...
I would advise anyone using TC product to check with their insurance to see if they are covered in case of an electrically caused fire. The appliances you use all have a UL test label on them indicating safe for use. Electrical contacts are not supposed to be coated in a conductive liquid. If some of this conductive liquid TC material were to run slightly and create a short and a fire - you can bet the insurance company would find it on another socket or from an analysis from the ashes. You might not be covered because of “tampering” or “misuse”!
It it is one thing to create an unintended short out and damage of your high end audio gear but a fire in the house where your family sleeps is just not worth the risk, no matter how amazing the promoters extol the results. In fact the manufacturer and promoter might want to take out liability insurance themselves, just in case.
@shadrone I have 35 panels under my belt. First for the scenario you paint, the product would have to migrate, it does not. Second I do not recommend at all individuals playing with their panels, liability.
I have already had a UL quote, have any idea what that cost? A lot, Hence ever see a aftermarket power cord with one? There are few, but not many. UL listing is on my list. When I hit a certain number of units sold UL will be executed. Thank you for concern for your fellow Audiophiles.
UL do extensive testing in their labs - so it incurrs costs. Similar to acoustic panels, there are other labs that can test panels and measure their absorption but it is always expensive to do things properly and professionally.
You have stated that the TC product “does not migrate” but how can you apply something that doesn’t migrate? Does it dry to a solid after application? If it dries to a solid how effective can it be versus a soft metal gold contact?
My memory of Sil-Clear was it's binder was some sort of conductive grease. I never had a migration problem with that product on my AC outlets. I don't know if TC has a "binder" or if it does, they'd say what it is.
" If it dries to a solid how effective can it be versus a soft metal gold contact? "
Would a ’soft metal gold contact’ eliminate micro arcing?
slaw sez:
"I don’t know if TC has a "binder" or if it does, they’d say what it is."
Why in the world would Tim Mrock give up the formula for his binder in a pubic forum? Only a fool would do that ... and Tim isn’t anyone’s fool. Not by a long shot.
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