I would look at the best Kubala Sosna cables used you can afford.
Yes, @cakyol can save you a boat load of money.
Or you can be happy with smooth sweet full sounding cables.
(Rain or not) :) We all spend for what we appreciate.
I would look at the best Kubala Sosna cables used you can afford. Yes, @cakyol can save you a boat load of money. Or you can be happy with smooth sweet full sounding cables. (Rain or not) :) We all spend for what we appreciate. |
@phillyb Agreed, and well-stated. I’m happy with my gear and lately have been toying around with reflection points & speaker placement…the impact has been profound! By simply moving the speakers further apart, and closer to the side walls, I’ve discovered much, much better soundstage. The music simply fills the room, as if I’m in a cathedral. |
I’ve used many cables up to 5K and what I can say from experience is how any of them would sound in your system is a crap shot, because any given type of power supply will react differently to any power cord or speaker cable as well as internets and the runs in feet, XLR or RCA. This is why a much cheaper but well-made cable in one’s system could sound better than the much more expensive cables. There is no doubt cables impact one’s system but how is the road bump, like modifications on gear you never know if you will like it until you put it back into your system. Cables matter but you might not have to spend as much money as you think, you are paying dearly for the bling more than the cable inside whereas a cable with less bling might look inferior but might sound as good if not better. A speaker cables should not cost as much as a piece of gear or a car. That is common sense in the end we are talking wire and connections. Better money would be better spent on room acoustics and investing in the room, and speaker's setup. |
@teh_chucksta I am glad to hear you find your system so satisfying. A good place to be in. I agree that room treatmen is the next step. Makes a huge difference and can be made DIY. Look up room treatment on this site. Much info herein. |
SPEAKER CABLES …. From Alan Shaw (owner and designer of HARBETH) ” … So, the moral of the story is this: the most important factor of the loudspeaker cable that you should select is the amount of metal in the cable core. More metal means lower resistance. If the core is round (as most are) then the correlation is simple: the fatter the diameter of the metal core the better because the electrical resistance between amp and speaker will be lower. Thin and really thin cores should be avoided regardless of how exotic the metal material is claimed as the lack of metal in the core conductor will increase resistance. That will reduce amplifier damping, effect the frequency response of the speaker and give unpredictable results that will vary from amp/speaker combination. MY TAKE: I upgraded from an all-NORDOST FREY array (that’s all of IC, Power, and Speaker ) to an all-CARDAS CLEAR / CLEAR REFERENCE array. the new loom presented an upgraded performance in presence, dynamics, and slam that was not subtle, in my system, |
@mesch The Novas are warm, clean & full with lots of detail (the characteristics I wanted). p.s. these cables are a great match with the new “Moonage Daydream” soundtrack. |
@teh_chucksta I look forward to hearing more regarding your thoughts on the Nova cables. I have been considering them myself. |
I would second @grannyring 's endorsement of the Duelund cables. I started off with Tellurium Q Ultra Black II feeding my ATC SCM40s. Though some regard these cables as a touch warmer than neutral, I was finding the overall sound a little hard and bright. ATCs are not noted for being laid-back, plus my room has many reflective surfaces. On the basis of this blog, I plumped for the Dual DCA12GA, 2 metres unterminated. I have the ends of the cable stripped and threaded through the amp's terminals plus the 3 sets of binding posts on my ATCs. This is quite a cost saving on both plugs and jumpers. The sound is wonderful, and at 60 hours so far, is only getting better. Tbh, at first, the mid-range was a little shouty, but has now settled. I would say its strengths lie not necessarily in subduing the high-end, but in emphasising the musicality of the mid-range. When I swapped back the TQ, I did hear slightly better dynamics and detail, but overall it felt cold and analytical.
[Digression] Interestingly, I experimented with Roon's DSP recently and created EQ graphs using a UMIK microphone and REW. As far as this setup could determine, there was no material difference in the analysis of the Duelund and the TQ. Yet, to the ear, the difference is very clear. This is perhaps an anecdotal insight into the frequent battles between those who sit in the "measurement" camp and deny the subjectivity of those who claim differences, when it "can't make sense" (ethernet and USB cabling being a very obvious case). |
Thank you to everyone who posted. It was a delightful mini-journey finding new cables. The Zavfinos OCC Cables I purchased are delightful, sounding better each day, in no small part to using the complimentary Tara Labs Cascade conditioning program I employ every time I leave my home. My wife, who is my second set of ears but not an audiophile, is also impressed, believing the sound to be deeper & richer (this also includes the addition of Acoustic Zen Tsunami PCs bought second-hand weeks earlier) while less harsh in the mids & highs. Cheers! |
@gillsysb Costs about the same as the Zavfinos. I've only had limited break-in time but so far the sound I'm getting is quite pleasing. More to come... |
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Well, I make cables all the time. All manner of cables. Some recipes sound warmer. Some sound more detailed. Some darker and some more brilliant. I can change the tone, openness, resolution and warmth by conductor material, connector brand, dielectric material, geometry and shielding or lack of it. You could not possibly be more wrong @cakyol. Does the observed sound correlate with capacitance and inductance of the cable? Or is it more like a cook it, taste it, and adjust the recipe? |
I had a spectral system for years so I was married to mit/spectral for decades. Recently put together a 2 channel system and had no intentions on spending big bucks on speaker wire. I auditioned a combination dac/integrated/ speaker combo that was musical magic and bought all the components. Didn’t want to risk any part of the chain not keeping the sq. It was wireworld 7 copper. Way over my budget but buying the system allowed for discounts. Whether their is a better or less expensive solution I don’t know but they are here to stay |
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Teh_chuksta. I am trying to save you some money that is all. Unless you are operating in the megahertz frequencies or running wires longer than 100s of feet, any standard typical multi strand copper wire rated for the correct current, costing no more than a few bucks will do. Just do not tightly coil them, keep them straight and away from signal wires. The rest is just illusion and delusion. |
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Well, I make cables all the time. All manner of cables. Some recipes sound warmer. Some sound more detailed. Some darker and some more brilliant. I can change the tone, openness, resolution and warmth by conductor material, connector brand, dielectric material, geometry and shielding or lack of it. You could not possibly be more wrong @cakyol. You should take the time to build, re-build and listen for yourself instead of speculating based on some notions. |
There is no such thing as a "warm", "musical" wire. As for "atmospheric", I do not even understand what it means....listening under the rain perhaps ? Let me correct myself. You can indeed get warm wires if you pump excessive current through a wire not rated for it :-) You guys really should really read the following: https://sound-au.com/articles/myths.html Do not skip sections, read it in its entirety, I will give you an exam on it sometime in the future and I expect everyone to get a passing mark :-) |
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@teh_chucksta - I first heard of this very problem when I purchased my NAIM amp. Naim had this phenom documented on their web site NAIM designed the low capacitance NACA5 cables (16.5 pf/meter) for their amps, just to avoid this issue with their amps, so your amp(s) would not have experienced this problem. The total capacitance of a cable generally has to be very high i.e. probably in excess of 2000pf - but the actual value depends the design of the amp and the length of the cables. In many high end systems the cables can be quite short (e.g. 4-5 ft) so they may never cause this problem. Most cables are have "middle of the road" values of capacitance so they are not an issue, but with the increase of very complex geometries, higher capacitance values may become more common. E.G. Another cable to be "wary of" is Kimber 12TC which has a capacitance of 494 pF / meter - but this may only present problems for longer cables exceeding 20-25ft long. But their BIFOCAL-XL has a parallel capacitance: 600 pF / meter. The specs for the Select Series have not been published. Similarly, the Cardas Clear cables use large numbers insulated conductors which increases the capacitance to pretty high levels of 278 pf pf/ft (or approx 900pf/meter), which for a 10 ft cables is 2780pf By comparison, my own DIY cables are very low at 30pf/meter, well under the high values of either Kimber or Cardas and many others and very well suited to most amps. But again, I stress this MAY ONLY apply to "some" high current solid state designs when longer cables are used.That’s a lot of "IF’s" - but IF you are not aware of this it can cost a lot of money in repairs simply because the speaker cables selected were not "the best match" for the amplifier. Also, very few technicians are aware of this, so you could have the amp repaired - only to have it fail again when you connect it back into your system. Certainly the technician I spoke to, that repaired the amps for my friend was amazed when I told him about it. Regards - Steve |
Zavfino Prima MKII. That’s what I have and I am very happy. https://zavfinousa.com/collections/speaker-cables/products/prima-speaker-cable About $600 for a 2.5 meter pair. I used to own Cardas Clear Reflection a few years back. They were pretty good too, but I remember they were more expensive. |