Integrated stopped working

@s7horton Try to press and hold the power button for 6~10 seconds, then the red light( if turns on) will blink for few seconds, wait till red lights stays on and no blinking then try to turn on. That’s how to reset M100, I have done it few times when my remote runs a bit slow.

It’s been unplugged for hours and replugged.  While I didn’t try a new cord, I did take the cord I had been using and put it on a different piece of gear - worked as it should.  Definitely an issue with the Micromega.

Try different power cord per turnbowm suggestion.   At this point anything is possible.  As for "unplug and reset" you should leave it unplugged for 15min or so.

So frustrating.  It took me a while to figure out how to get the cover off.

there is no internal fuse that I can see.  I’m not sure how to “unplug and reset”. But, I have plugged and unplugged many times during my testing.

I don’t think it’s possible it could be in standby, it won’t power on at all.  Either from the remote or manually.  I’m at a loss. It’s just so random that something would happen on the power side but the fuse didn’t blow.

@s7horton   Is it possible that it is in standby mode, but the bulb is burned-out?  Did you try to play something?

The switch, or relay could go very easy. It happened to me before
Try un plugging and resetting , if Thst don’t work  it will have to go to a tech.

When you open it you might and internal fuse.

Did you try a different power cord that is known to be working? 

I did unplug the amp from the power strip and go directly into the wall that I know works.  Unfortunately that didn’t solve the problem.  I’ll open the case tomorrow and see if there is anything obvious and let you know what I find.

s7horton

I'm assuming maybe incorrectly that you have the amp plugged into a power strip; since other devices are working did you disconnect the amp from the strip and plug it into the wall directly, or another recpetacle within the power strip that you know if working; maybe the issue is the power strip receptacle?

Just another thought

s7horton,

Use a different power cord and plug it directly into the wall. It it's still inoperative you have no choice but to open the case and visually try to determine if anything is amiss. I would focus on the power supply area. Good luck!

I checked the fuse with a multimeter tonight and it’s good.  So... I don’t really want to crack open the case, but it might be my only other option.

wd40 into a switch? I hope that's the dielectric electronics cleaner your using and not the old school WD40 ah lubricant (cleaner really), that's not a dielectric and not good for electronics.

Guys, thanks for all the responses.  As many have suggested, I’m gonna pull the fuse and test it.

regarding the power cord, I unplugged and replugged many times with no luck.  I have two other devices on this same receptacle, so I know I have power at the wall.  It would be strange to me that almost a year into the integrated and without it be moved at all, the power cord would fail. 
My daughter unplugged the power strip all my devices are plugged into yesterday to reset the TV (which we do on a regular basis) and everything came back on except the amp - gotta be the fuse, right?  
I’ll pull it today to confirm.  Again, thanks for all the help.

I run a retro repair workshop, most retro faults are dry joints on the solder.

Bingo. What I said.

I run a retro repair workshop, most retro faults are dry joints on the solder.
90% are repaired the same day after a complete resolder and pot/switch service with wd40.

Until he puts in a new fifty cent fuse or tests the old one he won't know what is actually wrong if anything.

Supply dead, fuse not blown - bad startup circuit (open startup resistors), open fusable resistors (due to shorted semiconductors), bad controller components.

https://www.repairfaq.org/sam/smpsfaq.htm#smpstsps

I agree with millercarbon that it might be bad electrical connection.  I have Benchmark DAC3 that suddenly stopped receiving signal from remote.  I opened it and found that infrared diode was poorly soldered on one side.  It was side of ground plane that required more heat to solder properly.   You can try to gently shake/twist it.
Samac has good point that circuitry, including stand-by light, is controlled by micro, that possibly needs reset.  Good luck, let us know.

If you don't have anything connected to trigger then it has to be something else.  I agree that standby light should be on, even if something in software or lack od signal prevents M100 to turn fully on.  Could it be something trivial, like bad power cord or loose spade inside?  Did you measure voltage at the end of the power cable? (try to wiggle cable and connections).  Are you sure it is pushed-in all the way?  Did you measure fuse with ohmmeter?  Is there any other fuse inside? (be careful - disconnect power).  I'm just grasping at straws.

So let me get this straight- With the unit plugged into power and turned OFF the red standby light should be ON, but its not?

If that is the case then, duh, power is not getting to the unit. If there's power getting to the end of the power cord, and the fuse is good (did you do a continuity check? Or just eyeball it? If so that's not good enough. Check continuity) then the circuit is open somewhere past the fuse.

Open it up and have a look. Odds are its a fuse and it looks good when it isn't. Been there, done that. If its not though then your next likely culprit is a bad solder joint probably somewhere very close to where power comes in. Electrical resistance at joints and bends creates heat, expansion/contraction cycles creates cracks, eventually over the years it can fail. Cross your fingers as these are the obvious and easy fixes.

You can try unplugging the m100 from the wall and let it sit for about 15 minutes and then plug it in and try it. Sometimes microprocessors in components need to power down completely to reset. Good luck.

Cheers,

Scott

Thanks for the response.  I don’t have headphones connected or another device used for trigger.  What’s weird is the red standby light should come on, but doesn’t.  I could be wrong, but would think if it needed a trigger, the standby light would at least be on?  Not sure.  I’m an engineer, but not with electronics.

Perhaps "trigger circuit" doesn't work.  Either something is connected but not driving, or something is connected by mistake, like 3.5mm headphone jack.