I am looking primarily at the Schitt Yggdrasil or the Topping D90.
How does one feed those?
I am assuming any sort of CD transport would output the bit stream?
or… they get saved to file and played from some media player into the DACs.
Some example of what is commonly done would be great.
The system currently consists of:
TT —> Audio Research PH2
An old Nakamichi 5 disk CD player
TV
Audible Illusions line stage (New tunes on the way, but it still sound OK to me with the old tube in it)
Prima Luna (with GoldenLion and TS KT-120 one the way… and I might I’ll get the VTL mono blocks 100w/ch serviced)
Vandy 2C and Vandy sub
I also have a Home Theatre pre, which is Roon capable, on the way… So that maybe does some of this for me as well?
But to be totally honest, the digital side is a bit of mystery to me. I have always thought we plug in a CD player and the signal comes out. (Maybe with some nuance in DACs, clock jitter, and filtering to separate the higher end from the lower end products.)
OK, It has been about a 9 month gestation, so here is the update.
I put in an RME ADI-2 Pro, and got a USC-C to USB-B to source from the iPad.
Sounds pretty OK to me so far.
I am playing the same LP from Spotify as I have on Vinyl, and it is well into the acceptable range.
It is a bit of a negative in terms of noise floor on other sources, so I’ll try replacing the SMPS with an LPS.
Or I’ll try running the RME off of the 4 port power supply I have which supplies 12V… I just need to source a cable for that.
If you need CDs in a car you are in trouble, new ones don't have CD players. Rip your CDs and play the files, it's much more convenient. Cars have had USB-A's for over 10 years.
My truck is a 1993, and my car is a sports car with no radio. The truck is the main vehicle.
There is also no digital radio or phone service once we get 20 miles out o town.
The Truck does have a compliment of McIntosh and Nakamichi, but the noise is pretty astounding, so it is not very high SINAD.
The tracking, on the shipping, indicates that my AVR has arrived, and I will convert a stack of CDs to FLAC for Roon on a NUC…
"How does one feed a DAC?" You need a digital source. A cheap CD digital out or $100 worth of single board network player are much better than any stinking computer. If you need CDs in a car you are in trouble, new ones don't have CD players. Rip your CDs and play the files, it's much more convenient. Cars have had USB-A's for over 10 years.
Usually my BS is offered sarcastically, which many say, “is the lowest form of humour.”
I generally find the idea of cables somewhat snake oil laden, and multiple stereophile routers could be in that list. But proof they work would be nice to see.
I need to find my CD s transport for the NUC later today as it is supposed to rain. Before that rain starts, I should do my outside work.
"Dont believe the pundits saying that spending ever more on a transport gives "better" sound quality. Not true! Digital is NOT like Analog! The same thing applies to cables. Cheap here works just as well as expensive. A $10 Monoprice digital cable is indistinguishable from a three or four figure cable - regardless of what the "golden ears" crowd claims."............................. .Boy you sure do talk alot of BS..I find normally when one post like this they simply dont have the funds to aquire a system that is reveiling enough to hear differences for better or worse
@donniewn IME, even with a better USB card, a standard computer running iOS or Windows has so many processes running unrelated to optimizing audio. They also require more power (aka more noise). If you run linux stripped down to single purpose and a great linear power supply, that might be close to performance to a good renderer/streamer, but all that trouble is easily overcome with a purpose-built device...no extra processes, lower cleaner power, and ideally optical isolation. YMMV.
IME, Audirvana+ updates corrupted my library and required finding hidden files and reinstallation on more than one occasion to get back up to speed. Damien helped when he got around to it, but he was too busy to help promptly and (at least at the time) was a one man show. I also find the multi-device experience and the discoverable links embedded throughout Roon to provide way more FUN! Cheers, Spencer
Have you heard the new usb card? I’ve read a lot of good reviews on it . I think it’s probably comparable. Whatever suits your ears is what’s best. Not everybody has a streamer. Why are you done with Audirvana ? I know it doesn’t stream DSD very well but I sure love the interface better than Roon . I am running Twonkie to stream the DSD. It’s working pretty good. No issues so far
XLD works great on Mac. Flac and AIFF are both fine. WAV does too but you will lose metadata when ripping (which you can add back, but extra steps.
@donniewn why suggesting that the Yggy USB will sound best from a computer? IMHE, USB-optimized DACs like Gumby & Yggy sound better with USB from a good streamer/renderer.
Audirvana+ is a barely supported hobby, and updates when they happen can be a nightmare. After 4 years of coping, I bailed and couldn't be happier about doing. Roon works SO much better and brings a far better experience. Cheers,
The best sound you’re going to get out of the SCHIIT Yagg is USB from your computer , running Audirvana or Roon . I suppose using a streamer would be OK also. If it has good sounding output. I used optical also it sounded good but I also was re-clocking with M2tech And I don’t think it’s worth the money with that $200 card.
Audirvana is worth trying. With free trials, I’d compare it to Roon. Anyway, there are various ways to improve your digital front end in addition to a DAC or a transport/streamer.
If your new "Home Theatre pre, which is Roon capable" means it's a Roon Ready endpoint device, then it can be your network streamer/player. Just connect it via ethernet cable to your network.
This.
IMO you may be focusing too much on the DAC at this point. Your "Home Theatre pre" may already have a decent embedded DAC chip. Decent enough to get started, anyway.
If it's "Roon Ready" then presumably it also has RJ45 ethernet input. So you might want to be asking how to get Roon working (because it's not quite as simple as just plugging in a cable). For that, Google is your friend. Basically, you'll need to: * subscribe to Roon (annual or lifetime fee) * subscribe to a streaming service such as Tidal or Qobuz * download and install Roon Core on a NUC, Mac mini, or other computer * download and install at least one Roon Remote controller app onto an iPhone, iPad, laptop, or other wireless device * follow online instructions to "enable" one or more endpoints and point your controller(s) to the Core
Once you set up Roon, you can put away your CDs and CD player if you like, because nearly all the world's music will be at your fingertips. Chances are, Tidal/Qobuz can stream versions of all (or nearly all) your CDs , possibly at better-than-CD quality. The Roon software includes digital signal processing functions, including upsampling.
Once you have Roon working, then you can think about upgrades to individual components (possibly including the DAC) if you think you need them. For that, the Roon Community forum can be very helpful.
If you don't want to commit to Roon at this point, you might want to consider above suggestions to get a Bluesound device (Node or Vault). The Node (and I think the Vault too) can be a Roon-Ready endpoint, if you want to get into that later. Meanwhile, it also can support services like Tidal directly (without Roon). It has a built in DAC chip, volume control, and companion software app for a laptop/smartphone. Your Roon-ready pre may even be able to support streaming services without Roon and without Bluesound (if not directly via the preamp, then via your TV).
An even simpler way to get at streaming content is to subscribe to a streaming service (Tidal/Qobuz/AppleMusic etc), put the companion app on a smartphone, and plug in a high quality pair of headphones. If you decide you like the streaming service, you later can use an iPhone as a Roon-Ready endpoint (using a lightning-to-USB interface to connect it to your AVR/preamp.)
In sum: Get the streaming services working first, preferably using the gear you already have. If you decide you like the content and functionality (compared to CDs or vinyl) then you can start thinking about upgrades.
The deeper you dig,the bigger the whole.Go simple ....
Amen bro.
@donniewn I’ll see if the AVR has an optical out, as the R2R sound (to my mind) a good way to go.
With Roon - It looks like maybe I should be do FLAC?Went to download XLD (or XLC) and it gave an “unsigned certificate” so I’ll keep looking at an OSX way… Or I’ll get (or find) a CD reader for the NUC.
I’m selling my Schiit ygg . Feed it from your computer with USB, get that new card installed 200 bucks . Done deal. Hit me up if you’re interested. I spent 1200 bucks taking the USB out of the picture , it was a tiny improvement. The R2R dac doesn’t respond that well too streaming input. they had the right idea with that new card.
@lbarbish my post at the bottom of page one of this thread (last paragraph & the 2 youtube links) answers your question. If you watch and have followups, happy to help in your new thread. Cheers, Spencer
I have read all of this but have a question. I have all my cds stored FLAC on my Synology NAS. I stream music through SONOS through the house being happy with the general outcome. But for my serious listening I feed to a SONOS Connect to my main stereo. The feed goes to my Bryston dac, then to my Cronus Magnum. Am I missing anything here? How can I make this set up better?
So the Snology would be like my NUC?The Sonos like rather Roon? And the DACS gets the optical from the Sonos, where I amight do it from the AVR?
@lbarbish Your question is off the OP topic which is generally frowned upon - you’d be much better served by opening a new thread with your inquiry
If it is a serious question, then it seems like is similar. Or is it sarcastic?
Or do the Sonos output into the DAC, do some known jitterbug dance?
OP glad to see you are setting in on something amongst all these what I will call various responses. Sign up for Roon after you rip and get the AVR setup. If you are going to be using the coax or optical out will really limit your range on an external DAC. No high res I believe. Need usb. My suggestion would Play with before you do anything and see if you like Roon. If you do new DAC unless your Avr is serious hi end then a new DAC would be great. Feed it back to avr to amp via analog pass through if it has it. This works great and you can find the right DAC. For your budget it’s wide open. Good luck.
I have read all of this but have a question. I have all my cds stored FLAC on my Synology NAS. I stream music through SONOS through the house being happy with the general outcome. But for my serious listening I feed to a SONOS Connect to my main stereo. The feed goes to my Bryston dac, then to my Cronus Magnum. Am I missing anything here? How can I make this set up better?
@holmzn In high end audio, stand alone DACs typically perform significantly better than a DAC that is bundles with an preamp/amp. You have to go up the $ chain to get a inbuilt DAC to sound as good as a standalone such as a Hegel. Often built-in DACs are made to a cost point and convenience rather than to emphasize performance, therefore not designed to compete with stand alone DACs. I suspect your AVR built-in DAC will not be to the level of even a Yggy, and maybe your insistence on using the AVR's DAC may seem opposite to some as a step backwards to box store sound. But if you are satisfied with the results, great for you! - you saved $.
5 years ago, I decided to do in-depth audio component research on building my first high end analog+digital system. Seeing you're on hold until you evaluate the AVR sonics, I'll also wait on product suggestions.
BTW $10k is a generous budget relative to your system, you can easily spend less to achieve good sonic results.
@holmz Your Thread Title and OP make it very clear that you are inquiring and looking to have a input to help improve your understanding of the requirements. If that is being shown as difficult to embrace by a contributor, it is not really something to be concerned about. A more compatible Mentor will show up
Maybe there is some light in there? (As it looks like my near term solution is close to what he/she is doing.)
Just I will rip them using a MacBook
The Melco equivalent will start as what is in the AVR
The $5 app would be Roon.
I’ll defer the DAC for now, but will see if I can come out of the AVR optically into an R2R DAC.
I will share what I do. I have a DAC3 from Bryston. I use a Melco N100 as a NAS/Player. I rip my CDs with a Melco 100 ripper/disc transport. The music sounds the same to me whether played from the transport or the N100. It is simply the best sound that I have ever had, much more detailed and open than using my Oppo 105 or a Sony 5100 as a transport into the same DAC. The Melco/DAC combo can probably be had for 6K. Another $5 for a decent app controls the whole thing from a phone or tablet and allows Tidal/Qobuz integration and Internet Radio.
He has a tt from Audio Research. I have no idea what that costs, but I haven’t seen AR equipment at WalMart recently.
The phonostage is the AR. The TT is a SOTA, which is sorta like a CD transport, and the phono stage is akin to what a DAC is doing.
Well I don’t often shop at Walmart, but I suspect you are correct.
All that ask from the OP is that before he issues some proclamation on the merits of digital vs analog is that he not compare apples to oranges. Don’t compare your Neiman Marcus analog rig to a Costco digital setup. Otherwise, good luck
You’re reading into this as being some attack on your digital system. But it is not about you.
Obviously I am comparing the Bestbuy CD player to the analogue. Those are the two sources in the living room so there is not a lot else to A/B against each other.
@holmz Your Thread Title and OP make it very clear that you are inquiring and looking to have a input to help improve your understanding of the requirements. If that is being shown as difficult to embrace by a contributor, it is not really something to be concerned about. A more compatible Mentor will show up.
The OP finally gave us a budget—apparently up to 10K—after multiple requests to do so in the past week. He wants his music “not to sound like it came from a CD player”. He has a tt from Audio Research. I have no idea what that costs, but I haven’t seen AR equipment at WalMart recently. He is looking at DACs—the most important determinant of digital sound—that range from 8% to 25% of his total budget, and probably less than his tt. He has now decided that an AVR will meet his needs. IMO he should keep buying lps from Barnes and Noble that cost $50 each and usually are digital files that have been embedded in a slab of petroleum. Although I feel like this is an exercise in futility, I will share what I do. I have a DAC3 from Bryston. I use a Melco N100 as a NAS/Player. I rip my CDs with a Melco 100 ripper/disc transport. The music sounds the same to me whether played from the transport or the N100. It is simply the best sound that I have ever had, much more detailed and open than using my Oppo 105 or a Sony 5100 as a transport into the same DAC. The Melco/DAC combo can probably be had for 6K. Another $5 for a decent app controls the whole thing from a phone or tablet and allows Tidal/Qobuz integration and Internet Radio. All that ask from the OP is that before he issues some proclamation on the merits of digital vs analog is that he not compare apples to oranges. Don’t compare your Neiman Marcus analog rig to a Costco digital setup. Otherwise, good luck
A set up like the one outlined below in the second bottom paragraph should fit in correctly with the Title of the Thread and the OP's inquiry.
From descriptions offered to myself following inquiries, it is certainly going to be a very different experience and will fit in the OP's requirement, "But high-end to me would be something that sounds good and does not sound like it is obviously coming from a CD player."
"Well I was not thinking much of budget, but less than 10k." I think a prudent approach can get you to this level of set up with quite a few $$$$'s left in the coffers, leaving enough for a HQ Player Subscription for many years if this method of replay is investigated and becomes a High Up the List choice.
I have followed various user experiences around this method of replay during the Lockdown of 2020 and after a long hankering to experience the set up, it is looking most likely I will be able to have a demonstration of the set up later in 2021. I am taking a friend along who is a very adept EE and Digital Enthusiast to the demonstration, I am hoping the EE develops a curiosity for this method and carries out a build, this will make it much more accessible for myself to experience, as at present the Trip will be between 300 - 500 Miles round Trip depending on the venue.
A DSD decoder set-up as a source with a 'Valve DAC'. used with HQ Player upsampling to DSD from PCM FLAC files and DSD256 Tracks.
A Thread covers this arrangement and other very similar set ups on the DIY Audio Forum
Go for Roon. Use one of Sonore Optical solutions and all your noise worries are gone. Get a USB capable DAC. Most are now. Feed that from just about any digital library. No discs needed. Rip them all to even just a usb hard frisbee attached to the Roon server. This solution can run from 6500 for Nucleus + Signature SE down to 2000 or so for Sonore cheapest solution with had built server. You will not be disappointed. I have had a few DACs and moved up to the signature se and ps audio Directstream. Wow. Enjoying some Ken Mo right now. It’s so clean
Forget all that stuff. Pitch it all out and get a set of the Dutch & Dutch 8c. Not only are these loudspeakers amplified, they have built-in DAC and DSP EQ. All you need are them and a digital source like a laptop, an iPad or even just your cell phone with Roon.
This sounds like the question I either asked, or was thinking… which was, “What about a Lyngdorf TDAI 1120 ?”.
The Dutch-n-Dutch sounds even easier.
I suppose it would be appreopriateto ask if we should go halves? ;)
Wireworld makes nice fiber optic cables made from glass.
Well We’ve been to the Corning museum in 2018. Whether is It glass or plastic, the physics is the same over the short haul. I am skeptical that one can “hear” glass as being more transparent.
JasonBourne says..‘The same thing applies to cables. Cheap here works just as well as expensive. A $10 Monoprice digital cable is indistinguishable from a three or four figure <digit (sic)> cable - regardless of what the "golden ears" crowd claims.’
Well 3 or 4 digits is most of the way to a fist, which seemed like it was his point.
And I doubt that the manufactures are not using 2000 $/foot cables inside of their gear.
Fiber optic provides complete isolation from the noise in the power supply of the sending unit. Coax does not. Galvanic and isolation transformers still pass noise through the ground.
Ok so we are not talking about digit noise as in the bits are getting bit error rates > 0, but traditional analogue circuit noise being passed left to right through the signal chain? (If so, I think I get it now… thanks!)
I must beg to disagree with any reclocking naysayers.
When there is a measurable difference in dither, then I would have to agree with you. If the particular device has a clock that is as stabile or more stabile than the reclocker, then that make the reclocking appear to not work… or not be needed. So asynchronous (file based), with a buffers, would seem to remove a lot of that need?
Digital is a very deep and winding rabbit hole but a potentially fun journey. Long and short of it everything matters which means there's lots of avenues for improvement after you start.
First buy used for best value and return when upgrading. Get a good DAC, add a reclocker like an IsoRegen, some decent USB cables like Curious, some decent digital power cords like Wywire, some powerline noise reducer like PS Noise Harvesters, then a real music server- start simple line Bluenode and upgrade later and enjoy.
I much preferred my Wyred4Sound DAC over my Yggy, see: https://wyred4sound.com/products/clearance/dac-2v2se-trade-units it includes a good volume control. A lot is made about R2R but the W4S was just better sounding all around. I traded up to a Denafrips Terminator then TP. I would recommend anything Denafrips but the used market is small.
JasonBourne says..‘The same thing applies to cables. Cheap here works just as well as expensive. A $10 Monoprice digital cable is indistinguishable from a three or four figure cable - regardless of what the "golden ears" crowd claims.’
LoL! Way to go to get things off to a contentious start! By the way I enjoy your posts and respect your opinion greatly. On these two areas I would have to offer an alternative opinion though.
A) Digital Transport (for CD) - the Oppo UDP-205, Pioneer BDP-09fd, and Parasound Halo D3 all sound different. Even if the DAC is supposedly indifferent being asynchronous, As far as signal from CD transport, it is not all the same sound. B) Digital cables sound very different. The Black Cat SilverStar MkII I received from CFarrow is ultra high res. And provides a super-clear window on the music. The Black Cat Veloce is very good, but not as good as the SilverStar. Less resolving. The Canare is well behind both.
I just set up my Brinkmann Nyquist mk 2. I realize that I now need to get a preamp. I was under the impression I could use the internal volume control, but it guess that's not what it's designed for. I'm waiting on a new one from a specific manufacturer, so I'll get a used balanced with zero feedback one until the one I want is ready. Darn me!!! That's the MS. I can't always think straight and don't always understand what I read. I could have sworn a reviewer used them directly to the amps. Oh well... Next piece of gear...:)
Back in the day, is when I bought my Ayre QB9 and the emphasis was in how to make digital sound analogue. The technology has changed significantly since then. I was lucky in that Ayre has updated that DAC to the present. Maybe close to eight years ago I bought the Uptone Audio ISO Regen with linear power supply and found that it made a very noticeable difference. Today on my Ayre QB9 Twenty, the difference is minimal by comparison.
The criteria for choosing a DAC today is so much more complex, i.e. detail, soundstage, noise floor, jitter, etc… This in part is due to the DAC chip but more so, how it’s implemented. And because of this, I’d still recommend trying to visit brick and mortar stores to hear as many DAC’s and transports as possible.
Forget all that stuff. Pitch it all out and get a set of the Dutch & Dutch 8c. Not only are these loudspeakers amplified, they have built-in DAC and DSP EQ. All you need are them and a digital source like a laptop, an iPad or even just your cell phone with Roon.
When you set them up, you tune them for your room and you're done. They have some of the best imaging I've ever heard, at any price. Truly uncanny.
Now there's no screwing around with matching components, cables (you get to eliminate speaker cables!), changing out tubes... One stop shopping for the very, VERY best audio you'll ever hear.
Fiber optic provides complete isolation from the noise in the power supply of the sending unit. Coax does not. Galvanic and isolation transformers still pass noise through the ground. Wireworld makes nice fiber optic cables made from glass. Although I also have others from Amazon. For a transport I have a Rega, Woo Audio, and Marantz. The Rega sounds a bit thin compared to the other 2.
For streaming I use Qobuz for my IPad into an Upsampling DAC.
I must beg to disagree with any reclocking naysayers. thought I had a decent sound until I tried a USB reclocker. Specifically, the Innuos Phoenix. Didn’t want to lay out over 3 grand wo trying first. So, I borrowed one and what a difference it made! Better vocals and sound stage. It took the edge off the highs for a smoother sound. They say that each upgrade is a small step towards better sound. Well, the Phoenix is a broad jump in my digital system. Go listen to one for yourself.
@audiotroy There is a lot of misinformation here the quality of the data stream really matters and can totally affect the sound quality of the dac all dacs are sensitive to jitter recllocking can help but digital noise can not be reclocked out.
OP you are getting advice from jasonbourne and his ilk which I suggest you completely disregard if you are after 'high end digital' That poor horse has been beaten to death.
I try to appreciate all perspectives. And appreciate them more with soom back up evidence. And I would still like to know how and what people that design cable get good, or bad, cables from a scientific perspective. Not everyone is J.C Maxwell, or others, but the physics is not different for different people… It is universal.
You also mentioned something about measurements. If you are not familiar with digital then ignore the technical side and use your ears. Somebody gave the impression that R2R is baggage which is not true. Don't worry about the architecture just how it sounds. I have an ancient baggage machine, a Wadia 15 that is so full of baggage that it can only play redbook, but outplays my Bryston DAC even when the latter is playing hi-res. True story. The measurementalists frown when I explain that I prefer listening to ... music, not so much interested in how sine waves measure or sound.
I basically do not want an embarrassing CD play and disappointing experience. Currently I was not sure whether the old CD player or the RCAs had the blown channel… but I put the AQ Emerald interconnects on and it sounded OK with “The Violent Femmes” (Which are often recroded poorly), and “Social Diostortion” wasn’t bad.(So in my case the 1M AQ interconnects were better than the 5M store bought ones, which are obviously $hit-Haus.)
Then I put on some Vivaldi, and it is front to back and side to side… everything laid out.Then the Doug McLeod LIve the Europe…Both sounded pretty awesome.
But I am also trained and educated in science, so I have a hard time believing in the pure magic. When the McLeod song comes on, I do not want to think about measurements… and it again brought a tear to my eye. (Which is a better tear than those form looking at the empty wallet)
If the two sources sound different , then they must also be producing different signals versus time. This is what graphs, measurements, and solid engineering is for.
Whether it's analogue or digital the source matters a lot and it's importance should not be underestimated.
I hear you. I think that the speakers matter more, and I put the source at #2… but I agree.
The recommendation to visit a few dealers is solid advice and is worth heeding.
I used to live close to many good shops, or close enough to get there in an hour or three.
Now I am literally more than a day’s drive away, assuming that people drive 1000 mi in a day… Hence I try to prefilter ideas and opinions into some plan.
It is probably similar to Covid shopping for many others in area which are less fortunate (i.e. more sparsely populated)
Anyhow I played a bit of “Immortal Technique” (Mistakes), and the “Eurasure” CD, and it all seems pretty good. Maybe the rest of the chain of gear is not up to scratch.
But I will spend some time in (what I believe) is a decent shop in Perth… where I am flying to in 3–4 weeks.
OP you are getting advice from jasonbourne and his ilk which I suggest you completely disregard if you are after 'high end digital' That poor horse has been beaten to death.
You also mentioned something about measurements. If you are not familiar with digital then ignore the technical side and use your ears. Somebody gave the impression that R2R is baggage which is not true. Don't worry about the architecture just how it sounds. I have an ancient baggage machine, a Wadia 15 that is so full of baggage that it can only play redbook, but outplays my Bryston DAC even when the latter is playing hi-res. True story. The measurementalists frown when I explain that I prefer listening to ... music, not so much interested in how sine waves measure or sound.
Whether it's analogue or digital the source matters a lot and it's importance should not be underestimated. The recommendation to visit a few dealers is solid advice and is worth heeding. Even if it takes time and effort you hadn't allowed for it will pay off by providing you with a target performance you are comfortable with. Forget those that say "just connect your computer to a cheap $300 DAC using the cheapest cable cos' they all sound the same"
Also consider buying used which is what I am doing. I need to downsize and once my used Mojo Mystique V3 DAC arrives I will sell the ones I mentioned. He sells V3 units that he takes in trade for $3500 but they are scarce, and I will when funds allow probably get one of his servers at about the same price. Or contact me if you may be interested in the Wadia
@audiotroy There is a lot of misinformation here the quality of the data stream really matters and can totally affect the sound quality of the dac all dacs are sensitive to jitter recllocking can help but digital noise can not be reclocked out.
This is one of the reasons pcs make poor tramsports
Listen to a dedicated server from auralac,aurrender innous or 432evo and you will hear a dramatic improvement in your digital playback.
Hi Dave, I have a T+A SD3100HV connected to a SOtM network switch with a MacBook Pro i7 core and SOtM cat 7 ethernet cables. Do I need a dedicated server to better the sound quality if so which server would you recommend. Thanks
You must have a verified phone number and physical address in order to post in the Audiogon Forums. Please return to Audiogon.com and complete this step. If you have any questions please contact Support.
