Most automatic turntable are now very old and are in need of lubrication and servicing. Most of the gears used in auto table are mode from plastic which have become hard and brittle which can result is loss of gear teeth.
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I’m sure that there is a better term for this but my Googling didn’t reveal one. Analog is a secondary source for me, generally confined to albums that never made it to digital. So I got one of these 45 year old favorites from eBay and it has a common issue that I’ve had with other turntables besides my current one in the past.
When I depress the cueing for the tonearm it skips the first few measures . I have to manually and slowly lower the tonearm and even then it still does this about half the time. This only happens with certain LPs. Is it record warping?
I had my dealer check the cartridge alignment a few weeks ago.
Again I’ve tried Googling this and I just haven’t been able to come up with much except improper cartridge alignment and record warping.
Just wondering what people in this Forum, who are an amazing collection of knowledge, think
Not enough anti-skate, it is pulling in as soon as it hits the surface, it takes a few grooves just to keep it in a groove, and it is pulling in too much the entire play, of EVERY LP, wearing both the stylus and the grooves. are you able to adjust anti-skate on that unit? You cannot rely on the dials/indicators being accurate, you can set it visually. Get one of these protractor discs with ’other side blank’. hudson hifi protractor, other side blank after you double-check all your alignments on the protractor side, set anti-skate to zero, set your tracking weight now, on the disc’s blank side, manually spin the platter, lower the arm, see it pull in even though no grooves, that is the natural force any and all pivoted arms exhibit. adjust the anti-skate slowly while seeing the results, check in a little from the outer edge, check out a little bit from the inner edge, make the best compromise. |
Most often, skipping inward has to do with the point a which the arm is set down and the speed at which the arm is set down. Records have a raised bead around the edge of the record to strengthen the record at its most exposed part, and in the old days, to keep the playing surface from contacting another record when stacked for automatic play. When the needle is set down on top of that raised bead, it falls down that little hill and can gain enough momentum to slide past the first grooves. If you have the ability to adjust the point of set down, choose a point farther into the record and away from the edge. It seems counter intuitive to set a needle down further into the record when it is skipping the first grooves, but this works. It also helps to have a slow descent of the arm to also reduce the momentum sliding down the edge bead. If you cannot adjust the set down point, you can keep the arm cued up, and before cuing down, you can nudge the arm a little bit inward to miss the bead. While excessive anti-skating can exacerbate the problem, it is not the primary cause. If it were the cause the needle would continue to slide in well past the first few grooves because skating force is not much different between the first contact point and where it stops sliding inward. |
I agree with Larry in that I think the stylus is sliding on the raised lip. That plus too low a setting of VTF could result in the observed problem. But I would also point out that the skating force does pull the stylus inward toward the label, so too much AS (which pulls in the opposite direction) would not be expected to be the cause of this problem. Maybe try increasing VTF by just a hair so as not to exceed the recommended max? And see that that does. However, the skating force alone is usually not sufficient in magnitude to account for the observation, unless the tonearm is wildly misaligned. Think of it, zero anti-skate, which results in unopposed skating force, all other things being properly adjusted, does not cause the stylus to skip outer grooves per se. Moreover, the skating force is not maximal at the outermost grooves. |
@larryi excessive antiskating would pull the stylus OUTWARD and not inward as your answer indicates. Furthermore, all records have a raised lip and that’s something a properly adjusted tt/tonearm should handle with ease. Thus, dropping the stylus further in is only a hopeful workaround, not addressing the cause itself. @elliottbnewcombjr I agree with you. OP, I suggest you check and adjust the tracking force as needed, and dial-up the antiskate a bit and see if this fixes the issue. |
I wondered about insufficient anti-skate, but for skating force to pull the stylus inwards, it has to be in a groove. I have had experiences where the stylus drops, bounces and jumps inwards - all without spending any time in a groove. So I suspect the raised rim on the disc is responsible for bouncing a quickly dropping stylus towards the spindle. Solution is to lower the stylus more slowly, and/or be a bit more accurate with placement just before the first track. If this is a fully automatic TT then that might be difficult. |
absolutely no groove needed, anti-skate happens 'naturally' on a blank sided disc,
that is why you can see the effect increase/lessen as you add/reduce anti-skate force using the blank side of hudson hifi's, any other single sided discs (don't get the version with strobe on the other side) protractor one side, other side blank
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rather, inward skate, inward pull, happens naturally for any pivoted arm, on any smooth surface, no groove needed to make/see it happen. anti-skate, which we apply, counters the natural force you want your stylus ’floating’, so it drops down into the groove and reacts equally to input from either side of the groove as well as up and down. getting the most of advanced stylus, further down in the groove, depends on proper countering of the naturally occurring inward skate. preventing an advanced stylus from damaging grooves, from uneven wear of itself, to get the 'potential' longer life, based on straight and proper even l/r surface contact |
@elliottbnewcombjr Thank you for the tutorial on using the flat side of my protractor; dang thing didn’t come with instructions, now I know how to check one of the most mysterious adjustments to my turntables. The mystery being I never know if I’ve gotten it right, only when it’s obviously wrong. |
Yes, I inadvertently said excessive anti-skating would pull the arm inward. The point I was trying to make is that, if the skip inward is not entirely a skating force, but, the momentum from falling off the edge bead, trying to use anti-skating to prevent this action will result in excessive anti-skating while playing the record. It is better to set the arm for correct anti-skating and avoid the problem of skipping at the beginning by setting the arm down correctly. Some automatic tables have an adjustment for this, those that do not, require one to have the arm cued up when starting the table, then nudging the arm to the right position before cuing down, or slowly manually cuing down to reduce the momentum of the arm falling off the bead. |
you can make a quickie overhang/null points protractor if you can punch/drill/cut a hole in a piece of stiff paper to fit onto a spindle, then simply draw a line across the center of the hole, and make some marks where you want them. overhang is easy, centerline of spindle to centerline of stylus tip, do not tighten, loosely snug, because you may be twisting the cartridge body sideways in the headshell a bit to get the best 'straight to the lines' for the 2 null points, then tighten speck by speck, re-check when tight, avoid movement when tightening
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Elliot, you meant to say that skating (not “antiskate”) occurs even on blank vinyl, but the magnitude and even the vector direction of the skating force are different when the stylus is tracing a groove. Nevertheless some do set AS using a blank area on an LP. But try as one might there is no single setting of AS that will precisely counter the skating force across the playing surface of an LP. Experience for me and many others is just to set AS at some low value (some say ~10% of VTF, but how do you quantify AS force?) and hope for the best. I still maintain that skating force is not causing the OP’s stylus to skip, at least not skating alone. |
lewm, you are correct, see my correction above .................................... I use the sound/imaging of these 3 guitar players to refine anti-skate by ear Friday Night in San Francisco, get both CD and LP all 3 ONLY Play on the last 2 tracks, listen to the audience imaging also 1st, you need the CD version, become familiar with the last two tracks, hear it with no involvement of a Turntable’s right or wrong setup 2nd, LP, side two, last two tracks, everything else correct: help refine final anti-skate adjustment
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Have fun with that. The precise proper amount of AS will be different for different LPs and certainly even for different musical passages on any single LP. So, when you set it for Friday Night at SF, it may be correct for parts of that particular LP. Since the skating force varies with the composition of the vinyl and the complexity of the musical passage and with tracking angle error (TAE) and zenith error, not to mention with VTF and stylus shape, and since the magnitude of TAE varies in a somewhat predictable manner across the LP surface, the best one can hope for is to be precisely correct at two points on the LP surface, because the changes in TAE magnitude with respect to the distance from outer to inner grooves roughly describes a parabola, any constant amount of AS will at best intersect a parabola at two moments during play. |
My only thought is that "just fine" is not quantitative. Most of us would say the same for our pivoted tonearms. Anyway, you raise an interesting question: what difference does it make tracking warps with a pivoted vs a tangential tonearm? Why would skating force and the application of AS make any difference? Answer for me is I don't know. |
When you wrote AS I read A$. There should be no skating force with a linear tracking (tangential) tone arm, except some side force has to drag it across the record. I am somewhat familiar with the Holbo deck which has both an air-bearing for the tone arm and another for the platter. @asvjerry Traversing a vertical warp momentarily increases the tracking force, then decreases it as the stylus goes downhill. With a pivoted tone arm, the skating force is proportional to the tracking force. In the extreme when the stylus gets airborne, it will be pulled away from the center by the anti-skating device, which tangential tracking arms do not need |