Capacitor log Mundorf Silver in Oil


I wished I could find a log with information on caps. I have found many saying tremendous improvement etc. but not a detailed account of what the changes have been. I have had the same speakers for many years so am very familiar with them. (25+ years) The speakers are a set of Klipsch Lascala's. They have Alnico magnets in the mids and ceramic woofers and tweeters. The front end is Linn LP12 and Linn pre amp and amp. The speaker wire is 12 gauge and new wire.

I LOVE these speakers around 1 year ago they started to sound like garbage. As many have said they are VERY sensitive to the components before them. They are also showing what I think is the effect of worn out caps.

There are many out here on these boards I know of that are using the Klipsch (heritage) with cheaper Japanese electronics because the speakers are cheap! (for what they can do) One thing I would recommend is give these speakers the best quality musical sources you can afford. There is a LOT to get out of these speakers. My other speakers are Linn speakers at around 4k new with Linn tri-wire (I think about 1k for that) and the Klipsch DESTROY them in my mind. If you like "live feel" there is nothing like them. In fact it shocks me how little speakers have improved in 30 years (or 60 years in the Khorns instance)

In fact I question Linn's theory (that they have proved many times) that the source is the most important in the Hi-Fi chain. Linn's theory is top notch source with lessor rest of gear including speakers trumps expensive speakers with lessor source. I think is right if all things are equal but Klipsch heritage are NOT equal! They make a sound and feel that most either LOVE or hate. (I am in the LOVE camp and other speakers are boring to me)

So here goes and I hope this helps guys looking at caps in the future. Keep in mind Klipsch (heritage Khorns Belle's and Lascala's especially) are likely to show the effects of crossover changes more then most.

1 The caps are 30 years old and
2 the speakers being horn driven make changes 10x times more apparent.

Someone once told me find speakers and components you like THEN start to tweak if needed. Don't tweak something you not in love with. Makes sense to me.

So sound
Record is Let it Be (Beatles)
The voices are hard almost sounds like a worn out stylus.
Treble is very hard. I Me Mine has hard sounding guitars. Symbals sound awful. Everything has a digital vs. analog comparison x50! Paul's voice not as bad as John's and George's. Voices will crack.

different lp
Trumpets sound awful. Tambourine terrible. Bass is not great seems shy (compared to normal) but the bad caps draw soooooo much attention to the broken up mid range and hard highs that are not bright if anything it seems the highs are not working up to snuff. I have went many times to speaker to make sure tweeters are even working.

All in all they sound like crap except these Klipsch have such fantastic dynamics that even when not right they are exciting!

Makes me wonder about the people who do not like them if they are hearing worn out caps and cheap electronics? Then I can see why they do not like them! If I did not know better from 25+ years of ownership that would make sense.

For the new crossover I have chosen Mundorf Silver in Oil from what I have read and can afford. I want a warm not overly detailed sound as Klipsch already has lots of detail and does not need to be "livened up" they need lush smooth sounding caps. Hope I have made the right choice?

When the crossover is in I will do a initial impression on same lp's. Right now it goes from really bad (on what may be worn vinyl) to not as bad but NOT great on great vinyl. (I know the quality of the vinyl because tested on other speakers Linn)

The new caps are Mundorf Silver in Oil and new copper foil inductors are coming. I will at the same time be rewiring the speakers to 12 guage from the lamp cord that PWK put in. PWK was a master at getting very good sound often with crap by today's standards components.

The choice of speakers would be a toss up now depending on what I am listening to. Klipsch vastly more dynamic but if the breaking up of the sound becomes to much to effect enjoyment the Linn would be a better choice on that Lp. If I could I would switch a button back and forth between speakers depending on song and how bad the break-up sound was bothering me.

volleyguy
Klipsch used to be a high end company though Undertow. 30 years ago a set of Khorns was almost 4k. Klipch went down market since then.

Which is another question I have can a corporation advance audio? It seems like to me whenever a corporation takes over a audio company they ALWAYS lower costs. I think pride goes out the window. It seems in audio the pioneers are always guys like Steen who want better sound and don't care so much about money. They are obsessed about sound but not so much about money. Corporations by there nature want to cut costs.

Undertow I was looking at a set of Khorns from a guy who was buying the Palladium's and I see he is back looking for Khorns?
I believe the guy you speak of is on this site, and on another thread saw the new pricing of 20 k vs. 15 k originally projected for the palladiums and said thats way to much now and I assume maybe went back to the more realistic priced speaker.. I could be wrong, might be a different guy I don't know.
Realistic priced for the Khorns? Dirt cheap might be another word. For sure for the vintage ones.

I think B&W's top speaker is 70k. I think Linn's is around 50k but that comes with amplification built in and no crossovers.

The reason I was told by the Linn dealer on the importantance of the passive speaker crossover is the crossover is powered by the signal. So it does only make sense that it would be of extreme importantance and like you said shows up again and again.

I have heard the Klipsch guys say A or AA are the best networks. Are they the best because they are the simplest therefore have the least amount of components so suck up the least energy?
I agree the less passive components the better, and also the less parts, the more expensive ones can take over the spot and have better effect. Your linns have some very large values, and too many components for sure, especially in 3 way speakers the midrange circuits get complex and costly for the most part. I would not take on a design like that unless your made of time, money, and space to really maximize your passive crossover upgrade.
My feeling exactly on the crossover parts. (fewer the better)

I am not taking on the Linn speakers. What is worse is they have a shelf life then. You either buy there crossover circuit board staying at spec or they are most like obsolete. (if they sell them) So the best you can hope for is factory spec no improvement or a ton of money on custom built out of high quality parts. Which is not cost effective.

As far as Klipsch using cheap parts in there new speakers have they done anything since PWK sold the company?
Vintage caps and SS on the one speaker is the thing of nightmares!

Even the other speaker with the Duelund tweeter caps is not as good as with the tube but unsure if it is caused by SS or bad midrange cap?

The difference is even more distinct than with tube gear, much more distinct!
Need Help Please tube guys.

I installed the Linn SS amps back in. The vintagee amp clobbers the SS stuff. SS sounds mechanical! I am new to this tube gear and have heard modern tube gear and was not all that impressed. The vintage one blows me away!

So I took apart the vintage tube Fisher x100d (same as a 500c I think without the tuner)
When taking apart the vintage I found only ONE modern capacitor and nothing else changed.

Most capacitors look like a gumball. What is that? Paper in Oil?

I have heard even changing the resitors to modern stuff kills the sound of these vintage pieces.
I used a mirror to see what the modern cap is but can not tell.

Very excited to find the Fisher is realitively unmolested.
Is it the key no plastic? Why does the old stuff sound sooooo good? My very expensive new stuff sounds 2D flat and lifeless by comparison.
Some theorize that the great sound of some vintages gears may owe to continuing break-in of output transformers over many decades.
The capacitor that has been replaced runs from the output tubes. So I assume (no doubt) this is one that makes a great deal of difference to sound?

Another question have wondered. Some guys say tubes sound slow and lack bass defintiton. The SS gear does sound faster but unnaturally faster. Is the SS gear better at driving through the poor quality caps? The super natural Duelund highs on the vintage tube gear is not near so good on SS and not worth the $ if you have SS gear in my mind.

A Day in the Life on SS.
Ringo's drumming nowhere near as real sounding. On the vintage tube the song is about Ringo drumming and the orchestra back behind which is brought forward at the end of the song. The SS gear captures none of this. Also at one point on the tube gear John seems to float again this does not happen on the SS gear as the sound stage is flat from front to back also mechanical and lifeless.

I am ordering Mundorf Supreme for midrange today (even though likely to go to Duelund) I need to hear the difference. (even if have to lose money on them)
Dgarretson
Could it be those hand made (wad of gum) capacitors? Clearly someone wound them up by hand! I did notice that everything (on caps) was +-10% which is sloppy by todays standards. If it was the output transformers over decades why then do so many people talk about loss of sound quality after caps or resistors changed? Do you know anything about the new Duelund resistors are they just the old design basically brought back again?

When one looks at a vintage tube amp with hand made capacitors point to point wiring and to be honest a heck of a lot of work it is easy to see why manufactures don't do that anymore unless of course you spend a lot today.

What would a tube amp cost today using Duelund level of parts quality for resistors and caps etc? I bet mindboggling!
Mundorf Supreme's are being ordered for testing and one of the guys from the site is going to send some Russian Teflon's.

We are going to see if a stable good cap like a Mundorf Supreme what the effect is when bypassed with Teflon.

I am going to put the Mundorf's back in to test on the SS.

I would NOT spend the money on Duelund with SS unless things change when the mid caps are replaced. All the fantastic improvements are NOT being realized with SS. Yes it sounds better than vintage but nothing like the Duelund's sound like with the tube amp.

On a side note my tubes on the Fisher x100d are the same Russian Electro Harmonix tubes that Stereophile said were "fantastic" in the Fisher 500c. (which is the same as mine without tuner) I sure can not argue with that statement. They just came with the tube amp.

I had to go out to the hardware store as the tube amp takes spades for connection and the SS takes banana's.
No way I can listed to this for long!
It would seem that the Duelund would have more effect with solid state since it breaks up the harder edged sound.. So my guess is simply you have a bad match of a SS amp for Klipsch, which is very easy to doÂ… Use a Mcintosh or Monarchy audio SS Class A amp and you will hear the difference, at least feeding the SS with a Tube preamp is almost mandatory for Klipsch or any horns in general.
Undertow

You could be right as Bryston was another horrible match to Klipsch as well. I have had Linn's lower line of amps and they were softer.

I am still in shock with the vintage tube. I put it back in this weekend. The caps will be here today or tomorrow and that may be part of the problem as quick foil caps that are worn distort. With SS (at least my SS) it may match up better with the slower poly (Mundorf) caps. Will know very soon.
Mundorf Supreme caps are in.

I will be installing tonight. Dynamics you can tell right away but it will take time to of course fully break in.

I want to get acquainted with them before Duelund's come in to understand the difference.
This is first few moments of impression of Mundorf Supreme in midrange (still Duelund in tweeters)

A little rougher in the midrange then the vintage caps. Dynamics are very close not like the change to Sonicaps. (which were MUCH less)

The mid range drone has not went away as much as expected.
Thinner then vintage so far.

Highs are not as good after going through the Supreme's.

Overall a fairly large step down from vintage in "realness". This of course is wayyy to soon to make these comments as permanent. More of a thing for me to look back on. Sound is much more grainy compared to the vintage foil caps.

They seem somewhat slower although nowhere near as slow as Sonicaps.

In the tweeter caps I thought any of the Mundorf Supreme's Mundorf Silver in Oil or Duelund's were a step up right off the bat.

Not so in the midrange? I am also not hearing the amazing noise reduction?
Sound is slower for sure and no even close to as "life" like.

Funny that the tweeters have gotten rougher sounding? The super naturalness of the speakers is gone!

Right now I am very disapointed. I hope they break in better than they sound now.

Sound is hard brittle and broke up even in the highs and what's worst of all fake. The sensational realness is gone.

The Mundorf's are not much smoother than Sonicaps in the mid range (hench the Tony Gee rating of 9) but they are much more dynamic. But if it does not improve (and HUGE) I would put the vintage foil back in for sure without a doubt.

This might make some vintage Klipsch "AA" foil caps a bargain used if you can find a decent one. They go cheap on e-bay.
The hours in this breakin are NOT going to be as fun as with the Duelund in the tweeters. That was very quickly a revalation and that provided huge enjoyment. This is like driving into the ditch and hoping you come out! (breakin)

It has cost me money but may save in the end as I will likely never buy another new amp if it has any poly caps in it. I will for sure have to hear it in my system. No more new speakers either with poly.

I will likely never buy another poly cap either. Flawed by design???

I think Mundorf realises this and that is why they have added oil to their's. Trying to get the best of both world's the cheap production costs of poly and liquid sound of oil.
Or buy the clarity cap MR's... They beat them all from what I have heard, they are poly
Undertow I will let you try that one and report back.

I have been burned enough. Even though the Duelund was very expensive it was at least better. So no regrets! Spending $120 on caps for one speaker midrange is not a big deal but when it is not as good as what you had then that seems expensive.

It is not just my crossover caps but when the vintage amp (with only one poly) hammered my much, much more expensive pre-amp (2003 or 04) and amp that was it for me.

Been a very valuable lesson to me. I used to lust after a Linn Kontrol and Klimax. (at crazy money) Not any more!

It is going to be vintage tube and foil caps in the crossover and Duelund when I can't get vintage or really want to spend the $ on something important.

I am already looking at how to structure my system as I will need one or two working vintage amps and parts to keep them going as I do not believe we will ever go back to foil caps on mass.

I hope the Clarity does solve the weakness of poly caps, but to be honest I have my doubts. Even if one does not buy Duelund's I think it is great/sad that they have exposed current methods as not very good.
Volleyguy
I would almost give you my own personal money back guarantee on this one.. However I have not heard the MR in every application, but from what I can tell with educated guess, and ears on how most of these caps react, the MR is indeed a very different and special cap, and for the money can not be matched that much I can tell you. Hey if your already going nuts on spending what you have in caps, this is really the final stop for you anyway if you are really looking for that next level, that or the V-Caps which I don't suggest and still cost like 4 times the price of the Claritys and don't even make the larger values!
I have tried the Clarity MR by the way... So I did report back a few posts back.
I prefer to not sound like I am going nuts but maybe that is what it sounds like.

You may be right Undertow on the Clarity being the best for the $. There is a difference in Poly's no doubt.

Sound of Supreme's
They do give the system more bass.
They are slightly slower. (than vintage)
They have less noise than vintage.

Effects on "A Day in the Life" Beatles (+2 on bass tone controls you gotta love 'em)

With the vintage caps the song has wonderful balance and is beautiful. Ringo is drumming is his own space and Paul is playing bass to the right everything in balance orchestra behind. (until the end when it is brought forward) There is a time when John voice is made to float.

The Mundorf Supreme's shift tonal balance to the bass. The balance of the song is out of whack. (paul now dominates) Ringo's druming is slower. There is not even close to as much front to back in the sound stage. Everything is more etched and harder sounding. The sound is also more aggressive. The Supreme's are a aggressive dynamic cap. Maybe that is why some preferred the Sonicaps and called them more neutral. Kind of like fake dynamics. Like a loudness switch.

The vintage/Dueland paints a beauty and Mundorf almost attacks you. I guess I can see why some like Sonicaps better this would get tiring after awhile and not sound natural.
Tonight I am going to pull out the Mundorf and do a burn in on a lamp.

This will take the caps up in hours without having them in the system for 400 hours!

I see why guys do things to burn caps in. If you don't like them 400 hours is an eternity!
Could these new VTV silver foil in oil caps be the new king of caps from Vacuum Tube Valley?.... http://www.vacuumtube.com/VTV%20Ultratonecaps.htm
Hifisoundguy
Nope. And I think they already went right back out of business even though that ad is from 2007 that you see in your link, from my understanding with some being sold off in bulk to whoever will use them.. I remember something about counterpoint using these exact caps for years and all at some point within a few years would many times just fail and need to be replaced, hence the guy that was counterpoint started that altavista site or whatever to actually do upgrades and start removing all these.
HiFisoundguy I had seen those ones too did not know they were out of business?

What makes foil caps so expensive to make? I know they say they are hand made at Duelund and of course that costs. But why do they have to be hand made?

If labour is the main costs I am surprised there are not Chinese knock-offs? Or are there?

I did notice on putting back in the vintage caps that the noise was slightly higher than Mundorf. (but I did know that before) I have wondered about what can be done to them to quiet midrange vintage caps down? (tweeter caps are just to far off Duelund) Could they be dipped in something? Would that work? I did go up and flick the midcaps to see if I could hear some vibration distortion and could not. So is the higher noise level not caused by external factors but internal?

On the upside foil caps are much more musical with nothing sounding out of whack. The (very short hour Mundorfs) tend to exaggerate sounds of instruments and of course sound harsh and slow.
Volleyguy
You answered your own question... If you believe in the microphonics created by the inside of the cap elements effecting sound, once again Clarity Cap MR seems to have made a BIG difference and effective sonic benefit from this. They are brand new to the market, and of course will take a while to gain some steam, but I got a feeling these will do mostly all of this including vintage sound for the best pricing now after experiencing them in a critical location vs. several of the other caps we are talking about that I have owned here.
Undertow
How does Clarity with th MR address the speed difference of poly caps?

I have hooked back up the Lp12 into the system now. Last time I had a hum this time not???? Don't know why maybe not grounded as weel before.

But the phono section of the vintage amp does not seem to be so good. Is this normal? In SS there is a big benefit to vinyl is that not the case with tubes so much? Or do I need a phono stage?
Maybe a little humiliation here is needed.

I put back in the Mundorf Supreme's for more burn in.
I also reduced balance controls to flat from +2 on bass. The reduced noise allows this.

This tuning speakers is not easy. After listening to the vintage (mid range caps) again they started to sound noisy and that started to bug me. So there will no no original caps left. They are worn out for sure and too noisy.

I now consider the Mundorf Supreme's a horizontal move and with break in this should improve as there is only a few hours on them.
After 10 hours the Mundorf's lose crazy bass.

I find the Mundorf quiet on noise level and did like that combo in the tweeter for awhile with the Duelund.

This could get interesting with the mix of the Russian teflons coming. Will that add a bit of needed speed and liveliness?

Interesting as to how different caps break in differently.
Duelund a bit edgy out of the box but brought instruments to life.

Mundorf boomy (IMO) harsh and grainy not a pretty picture at first. Showing some promise now not neary so bad.
Volleyguy
Again the Clarity MR is super fast, linear, balanced, and simply the most perfect cap I have heard yet.. I have now tested them being in the main output caps vs. the several above into a rather raw and harsh horn system between me and a friend of mines reference series.. These are an excellent Zero bad effect cap. however they will not cover anything up..

So bottom line, Good silent components are needed, the MR will make every noise come to life, they are super transparent so if you got hiss or whatever these will just let it right thru true to the signal. These are far better than any of the mundorfs I have tried so mundorf is at best for a good tweeter, or midrange circuit, they are not the best in Bass for a full range signal or woofer in my opinion. Silvers are not anyway, maybe the standard supremes are better in bass as you seem to claim, but nothing has touched the MR in lower freq's as of yet minus the Jantzens being very close, but not nearly as clean and fast sounding of a cap..

The Sonicap platinums so far get trounced by the MR as well, which is somewhere between the V-Caps and the MR, the MR its just invisible and has control over the helium highs better than any of the other caps. Meaning ZERO fatigue. I would assume this is similar to the Duelund control in that respect.
Undertow I do believe that the Clarity is very good. I just if possible do want to stick with Duelund.

There is something with the poly caps I have tested anyway that is somehow fake? I am not sure what it is. As soon as say the Sax's breaks up the mind goes, not real? With poly caps there is sounds but the mind does not say Wow that is clearly a (whatever) I have to try and figure it out.

In one of the Beatles songs on the vintage/Duelund you can hear the tri-angle no problem and "know" that is what they are playing. You can feel the energy of it as well. That song is Hey Jude and on the Mundorf's it is really pathetic really. Almost not even the same song.

With Poly caps there is a sterilization of the senses. The Mundorf's although quiet are still rough sounding. They reduce the sound to beat not instruments.

Foil caps can not all the time make it so real but they can some of the time make it uncanny real. The poly's are never doing that.

I am in the rough spot now where each cap reveals (vintage/Mundorf) the others flaws and you are happy with neither.

I would chose the vintage though more noise and real instruments beats less noise and fake sounding.

What causes this? Undertow do the Clarity caps make instruments sound real?

Here is another guy who thinks the foil types are much better than poly. Although I would not say "bright" is the exact right word. "Fake" would be my discription and this is only on direct comparison can one tell.

http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?spkrfull&1222484923

Undertow if I was to try another cap it would have to be of similiar design to Duelund a stack foil or foil cap of some kind.

I feel a little burned right now and frustrated. The Mundorf's would have been hammered by the vintage when they were new. (noise was a lot less)
I get what your saying.. But I think you just have not tried the right caps yet, but of course you can stack 1000 dollars worth of duelunds and get your desired effect, just trying to save you a little, in the midrange I would be shocked if the MR's did not match up 99% to what you hear from the duelunds... I have not used the MR in speakers, but in a much more touchy location in my system anyway, nothing worked better, I will have the duelunds going into my horns hopefully in the next 2 weeks, they had to be custom ordered in my size by Parts connextion. Again I would have easily stuck with the MR's knowing they will probably do as well in this application, however they don't make the size exactly as duelund will in this case.
I can't wait to hear your impression of Duelund's.

Do you have any all vintage tube amps as well? I am not sure what the effect will be of them if there is poly in the system?

What is the price comparison from them to Clarity?

Duelund to me is just a known effect to me Clarity is unknown (barring what you have said) but I am getting strong feelings on NO poly caps.

This doing the crossover rebuild to me has been excellent.

It has totally changed my sense of what matters and what does not.

Doing this changed my whole thoughts on audio.
Undertow I do have a friend who is going to come over when done to hear the Duelund's and he is also a Khorn owner who wants to know.

I have already asked him to post on here his thoughts.

I feel it is good to have more than 2 or three vintage Klipsch owners impressions.
Duelunds vs. Clarity cap MR size for size.. Well I know you can get a Clarity MR for about 60 bucks in 1 uF and a Duelund is somewhre in the 120 to 135 region.. So yep half the price of Duelund.. But double what a Mundorf silver would cost I guess.. As for larger sizes like you need on your speakers.. Well a Clarity MR 10 uF is something like 260 eachÂ…. But a Duelund I am sure is in the 500 each range.. So there you go. I would not go to such sizes in any cap if not necessary, I have speakers that only require about a 6 uF cap tops, and my components are in the .22 uF to 1 uF range so no need to get silly on extreme cost large values for me as it might be for others.. And yes I was in fact using 100% tube, not totally vintage, they are newer components but have vintage sound along with the clarity of newer components and some better parts.. However I am still using a fully modified custom Tube PReamp and phono, I did now put in some Pure Class A Solid state mono blocks which are the only so far to match up well to the tube S.E.T sound of my other amps in my system.
Hifisoundguy
/Nope once again :-) They look interesting.. Flat body much like the duelunds.
I am getting a handle on the Mundorf vs. vintage.

Vintage/Duelund sounds MUCH more real. When listening to the Mundorf's there is a tension through the shoulders. The mind trying to figure out what they are playing. It feels like going down stairs on your bum. You want to go turn the stereo down as it is very tiring.

With the vintage/Duelund it gets the music right much more often and when it doesn't sound right for some reason not offensive.

It has been an expensive lesson $250 in Mundorf caps and $100 in Sonicaps that I have no use for but will sell for something.

Foil caps simply sound like music and poly's sound like a stereo.

You can feel the whole body relax when foils are in and you want to listen to music. Now I understand the 30yr fascination with these speakers and NOT all Klipsch as I owned heresy II's (and did not like at all, cheap caps no doubt) Even Khorns after they switched off AA's did not sound so good to me either.

Undertow you are right that Duelund is expensive but at least I feel good about spending the money.

If I was on a tight budget (and who isn't) I would change tweeter caps (to Duelund) and use vintage foil in oil cap for the midrange. Vintage foil mid range is likely better than ANY (in my mind) Poly cap.

Steen's right put those things back in computers or non audio areas.

A real bargain on e-bay would be someone's old Klipsch "AA" crossover and just change the tweeter caps. Sound would be MUCH better than new and wayyyyyy better than any poly cap I have heard.
How about this:
I have been reading this thread for weeks (or is it months)and have had the same thought the entire time - the BEST cap is no cap.
Volleyguy, if you are this sensitive to caps, why not go to a single-driver system, or a multidriver, multiamp, electronic crossover system? I myself never heard real music in my home until I heard a high-end system with no passive crossover at all, with silver wire all the way to the voice coil. Even if you don't like the no-crossover sound, compared to the price of a system full of Duelunds, you could put together an impressive active x-over system.
Volleyguy does love his Klipsch Lascala speakers and just like so many of us who enjoy our speakers as well and want to maximize their performance, I have enjoyed reading these escapades. I don't believe that the very best speakers are either crossoverless or active. There are so many wonderful manufacturers of speakers that use crossovers and so these issues should be addressed. Does it always mean that if you have less then it is absolutely better?
Ait

Yes the thread has been wayyyy longer than I ever thought it would be myself.

Is your active system Linn? or another kind?
That was/is the alternative as I own an all Linn system and only need one more amp and aktiv cards to be passive crossover free.

Linn has maintained all along that aktiv crossover and more amps is cheaper than high quality passive. (like Duelund level) It may be cheaper on the used market. New Linn amps are not cheap either.

G_24
That has been an issue I have wondered as well is a very good passive better then aktiv? Aktiv has a circuit board and the effect of those components on the sound right?

Linn does talk about there new boards being better (which they may be) but that indicates weakness in the begining.

Duelund does seem to be signing up quite a few speaker companies to their list.

I am thinking of wiring a "A" network this weekend, which is less parts again. (one less inductor and one less tweeter cap) So somewhat less cost.

Sorry for the length of this thread but when I looked at doing any of the recommended choices people thought, none of them would have had me very happy.

My choices were
1. Sonicaps
2. Mundorf Supreme
3. Mundorf SIO (which is the one I thought I wanted without hearing ANY of the three I guess I like the oil idea)

I am glad I did not do any of the three to be honest as they all were downgrades in some way and some by a lot in my opinion.

What was strange is there were people who would say any of those are much better than the originals?

In the midrange the best cap I have heard so far is STILL the vintage. Duelunds are coming (now that owner is back from honeymoon) and I do hope they are better. (I "think" they will be)

This rebuild proved to be not as quick or as simple as I thought but I have learned a lot.

I thought I did owe it to the Klipsch though as for almost 30 years I have not wanted for anyone's speakers. How many people do we know who are always changing speakers and at great cost.

I do want to compare this system when done to a fully loaded Linn aktiv with their top speakers, just to see. Even with the Duelund (expensive parts!) I will still have chump change into this compared to a system like that. I do know this system smokes my current Linn passive system by a MASSIVE margin.

One thing you do not have with this is the look factor!
Ait

This is a quote from a Linn website with a well respected guy there listing his best upgrades ever.

Those 5140's are my speakers and that Klout is my amp.
He has that upgrade listed BELOW going from tri-wired to quin wiring on the speakers. That is not a big jump to me?????

(from Linn website)

What are your best ever upgrades?

Best upgrades

1. Axis to Sondek LP12 - Axis, Basik Plus, AT-OC5 to black LP12 Circus, Trampolin 1, Lingo 1, Japanese Akito, K18 Mk.1 with Mk.2 stylus replacement.

2. Ikemi to Sondek CD12

3. Klout aktiv AV5140s to mono-Klout tri-wired Akurate 242

4. Keel

5. tri-wired to quin-wired Akurate 242 (you just have to do this!).

6. CD12 to Klimax DS

7. Intek to pre/power amp (2nd hand Naim 62/140, ahem).

8. T.Kable (hear all of what your LP12 is actually extracting from the record).

9. AV5140s mono-Klout to 3 Klout aktiv AV5140s

10. Kan II (on K2 stands) to AV5140

11. Naim NAP 140 to Klout

12. Trampolin Mk.1 (a naturalness of timing I've not heard from anything else).

13. Japanese Akito to Ekos Mk.2
Could really use some help guys.

I am really thrilled with the sound of foil caps but do not really understand what the design differnce is? Why do they sound different?

Poly caps have plates and the electricity jumps from one side to the other through the dielectric. Does the signal in the foil cap do the same?

An Inductor is a continous winding of copper that blocks high freq by the skin effect? Therefore is the quality of everyone's inductors closer than caps? To me the difference in caps is HUGE. Is it the same for inductors? or is Alpha Core's inductors, Mundorf's Inductors, Duelund's inductors very different and in what way? and why?

Is the coating on the copper wire the reason?

Since my order was made before the price increase Duelund is allowing me to add to that order to complete my crossover. But this is a one shot deal meaning whatever I order that is it and any new orders are at the new price.

So Duelund's raised there prices a lot. So this is a one shot deal for me and has to be done on Monday.

So any help on this would be greatly appreciated.

I am almost certain to get all that is needed and am going to try the CAST tweeter caps and CAST inductor and VSF midrange all x two.

This means errors are 2x as costly if they do not improve sound. No ordering one part at a time and seeing. One big $ guess on Monday. Excited but somewhat nervous and really trying to understand what does matter. Any help would be appreciated.
One thing is the thread will be coming to an end soon as once this order is filled I am stuck good or bad.
Did anyone try Duelund graphite resistors in their xover? These look interesting.
Dgarretson
I have heard (but not tried) that they are a no brainer resistor and very good.
I use them, bang for the buck is through the roof.

Got this from Parts Connexion:

pcX has a made a massive buy of these resistors...we think so highly of them. All our most popular values will be stocked in great depth. As as result,spcX was able to get a great price - and those savings are being passed on to you, our valued customers !

The "most popular/common" resistor values will be $14.95 USD each

Seems like a stellar deal.
Stormen while your here I sure could use some advice on inductors. Are Duelund's that much better than vintage and do inductors make a huge difference?

I have to put the order in today. (a couple of hours)

I know the caps I want but inductors???? The old ones are iron core but wrapped in something to stop vibration

Thanks