Madfloyd, just Google "VPI SDS" and check it out. The third hit will take you to Audiophilia's review after it's release. |
Be careful, these adjustments aren't "tone controls", wrong adjustments affect the sound in various ways, not as consistent as you seem to assume they are. You'll soon find out in what way the adjustments are affecting the sound. |
Madfloyd,
SDS is a box that plugs between the ac cord and the wall. It helps keep speed consistently at 33.33 or 45rpm. Walker Audio's Motor Controller is a competing product that does the same thing.
Although that might improve your overall sound to some degree(and probably will), it doesn't address your problem. Fix that first.
Your other learnings in your last post as basically correct. Try reading the turntable setup tips on walkeraudio.com. They will help you. Cheers,
Spencer |
The problem is the cartridge needs a 3-4 gram weight on the headshell to improve the upper bass lower midrange response. This is not an ideal match but can be made to work if you increase the mass.
You must also let the Valhalla wire break in, seriously, it needs 50 to 60 hours of playing to loosen up the sound. Set the back of the arm down slightly which will slighly increase the tracking force, make sure you are level and if you do not have seriously slam bang bass get
a new phono section.
I really don't understand why dealers team up cartridges and arms based on absolutely nothing. Get the Dynavector 20X-M and you will have slam, bass, and a beautiful soundstage and midrange.
HW |
Lowering the tonearm at the base (my suggestion) will increase the bass, but go too far and you'll lose the mids and highs, so be careful. Also, adjusting the VTA will affect your VTF, so re-measure that when you are done.
Before adjusting, attempt to determine if the arm is parallel to the playing surface. Based on your symptoms, I would guess the arm is higher at the back and lower at the cartridge. If you can see that it is higher, without having to use a ruler, then it's WAY too high in the back. Otherwise, the way to measure is to lower the arm onto the record (use a beat up record) and use a ruler to measure the height of the arm at two points. That will tell you if the arm is higher at the back. (It's not that easy, truth be told, because the JMW9 arm is tapered. You have to look closely.)
And be careful not to knock the arm with your ruler or hand, since its sitting in the groove. I wouldn't want my advice to result in a busted cantilever!
Good luck.
Tom |
I still think its most likely an issue with the low compliance cartridge. Vpihw's suggestion of adding mass to the tonearm is worth a try. |
Vpihw is Harry Weisfield. Listen to what he says about his products and ignore the rest of us. He won't steer you wrong. |
My Scout came with a Dynavector marked 20X.
9" arm.
The box has the H checked.
It only has an H and an L box to check.
Is the M a new version?
I love the Scout with a JLTi phono and the 20XH.
Would the 20XM or 20XL be an improvement? |
Thanks again for all the responses. I'm learning a lot. Can I ask for a suggestion of how to add weight to the headshell? Can you purchase these weights somewhere?
I do want to purchase a Dynavector; my dealer is suggesting I wait until I sort out my speaker issue, but I'm not sure I can wait that long. :-) |
The M is faster than the H almost as fast as the L but has a very powerful impact on transients with the right phono section or transformer and loading. With a transformer around 40 ohms with a phono section around 1K
HW |
VPI makess a 3 gram stainless steel weight for JMW tonearms. Cost $15.00 at Music Direct and other dealers. |
Thanks for the tip about the headshell weight.
What's the general consensus about the VPI Mini HRX feet upgrade? |
Madfloyd, don't spend any money on upgrades until you correct the bass problem you are hearing. Harry gave you
the right advice. He designed the table and arm. No one knows more about it than he does. Follow it and live with the changes for awhile and confirm that VPI is your table of choice. Hold on to your money until then. |
Harry's suggestion is to get a Dynavector 20XM. I having a problem finding a place to purchase this online.
I can find 'L' versions and at elusivedisc they list a HW-DYN20XM but the actual description lists it as an 'H' version (VPI/DYNAVECTOR 20 X-H SPECIAL VERSION). Is this the same thing?
Another question. Given that its Friday and too late to get my hands on a headshell weight for the weekend, is there any temporary solution (attaching a dime or something that is approx 3 grams) - or is that totally ridiculous?
I'm chomping at the bit to enjoy some vinyl....:-)
Thanks again to all who have been patient with me. |
Madfloyd,
Check the VPI website. They sell their own version of the Dynavector which is probably the one VPIHW was talking about. It has an output of 1 mv and is the one I was thinking of trying before I (as I often do) went more expensive and tried the Benz Micro LP. It looks like a pretty good cartridge for the money. Unfortunately VPI is closed on Fridays and I'm sure for the Holiday weekend but I'm not sure I would try any makeshift headshell weight without asking them first. That sounds like something I would have done in high school when I was younger, faster, and more foolish. As I said before, you've got some great equipment(a descent phono stage may help as much as anything which doesn't have to cost a fortune) but another very important factor in vinyl satifaction is diligence and patience. You're on the right track and you will get there. |
HW,
Thanks for participating. It's exciting to see you post here.
FYI, Mike is a gem; but you already know that :-)
Cheers,
Spencer |
I would take a close look at your phono stage, I recently changed out some coupling caps, made all the difference in the world. If your problem is the same as mine, all the changes in setup or cartridges are not going to solve the problem. I don't know what caps the Pro-ject uses, but this is the first place I would look. You should also see if you can audition a higher quality phono stage.
My recent experience illustrates the importance of a quality phono stage. At this point I think it may be the most important link in the analog chain. |
Wish I had more time to really get into it with you guys. Keep up the good work and giving great advice.
HW |
For a temporary fix, go to Home Depot and get some Moretite. Take a blob of it and put it under the headshell. Adjust the VTF and see what happens |
I should also mention I had the previous iteration of the Pro-ject Tube Box with a Rega P25. I thought the bass was somewhat lightweight with that setup. Knowing what I know now, perhaps it wasn't the Rega, rather the Tube Box that was holding back the bass. Just something to think about. |
Well I used the Project when I had the Rega P3-24 and there was plenty of bass. I also tried the VPI with an Aesthetix Rhea and there wasn't much bass, but the Rhea wasn't functioning properly so I didn't want to mention it before.
Thanks for the tip about VPI selling the Dynavector. I'll call them on Tuesday. |
|
Johnnyb53, I would say that the problems you heard in the set-up you described are almost certainly due to either the amp or speakers, not the table and cartridge. I love the Rega tables, but I was very underwhelmed by their amps and speakers.
Madfloyd, I would certainly vouch for the P5/Exact 2 combo, especially if you also get the separate power supply. I am very happy with that set up. |
Hi,
You are reporting results that are exactly backwards.
I trust your ears and what you are reporting.
But to be clear: Scoutmasters have LOADS more bass and midbass than Regas do. Regas NEVER sound dark.
You should:
1. Not buy anything more.
2. Make sure you are making no judgements at all until your cartridge has at least 20 hours on it.
3. IMPORTANT: Make sure your phono pre is set on MC, loaded at 20 ohms. If you don't like the sound, try 100 ohms. Page 2 explains how:
http://www.sumikoaudio.net/project/manuals/manual_tubeboxse.pdf
4. Print out a cartridge alignment protractor and see if yours is aligned somewhere near correctly. Here: http://mkjnovak.homestead.com/files/align.PDF
5. Put something on the headshell to weight it down. You can only do this if you have a VTF measuring device. Then re-adjust tracking force to 1.8g.
The issue of what the VPI rests on will make a difference, but not a major one. The VPI will slam you over the head with powerful bass no matter what it's on.
Let us know when you confirm no. 3 above. Thanks and good luck-
Hukk |
I've had a VPI 19 jr for years and get good but not terrific bass out of it. Having read the others' posts, I've been surprised no one has mentioned polarity. Do any of your components reverse polarity? If so, you may have to reverse your speaker cables at the speaker to compensate. Poor bass is often a sign of incorrect polarity. Just a thought, as I am far from an expert on this subject( read Clark Johnsen's material on polarity).--Mrmitch |
