"Addition of subwoofer to Music System"


I retired 20 years ago, and have since downsized my audio system to a more modest one consisting of Monitor Audio Gold 100 speakers on Monitor Audio Stands, a Marantz CD player, Rotel Integrated Amp with good DAC, Linn Basik turntable with Akito tonearm and Rega Exacta 2 cartridge, Panamax power conditioner, Kimber Cables and Interconnects, and PS Audio power cables from CD and Amp. I have a large music collection; 1500 vinyls, 3000 CDs and 2500 in AIFF files on separate hard drive on Mac. I would like to add subwoofer to my audio system and I am looking for suggestions and recommendations on cost effective subwoofers. This is strictly an audio system, no video. It does have a whole house component with KEF in wall speakers being run through a Denon AV receiver that is mainly used for background. My room is moderate 13 x 25 with 8 feet ceiling. I listen mainly to jazz, classical, country and R&B. Very little hard rock. Prefer CD format. I don't need booming bass and prefer clean sound at moderate listening levels. Would love to hear your suggestions based upon experience. Many thanks.
joscow
I'm currently trying to dial my sub (REL 328) in as best I can. It sounds really good, but with the help of another Agon member, I'm doing REW sweeps, moving the sub around, taking SPL readings, etc.

The way we're proceeding is to deal with things 300 hz and below, first. Here are the priorities, in order of greatest leverage (according to him):

1. Placement of speakers (including sub) and listening position (in all three dimensions).
2. Adding subs
3. Room treatments.

Things sound pretty good already, but the graphs show some major nulls. Looking forward to dialing things in more.
I’d highly recommend going with a pair of subs rather than one.  SVS offers a pair of their SB1000 subs for $950 and off a 45-day, risk-free trial period with great customer service.  There’s also a pair of Vandersteen 2Wq subs on US Audio Mart for $1400 that’s a no-brainer if you can swing it.  They’re fantastic and highly musical as they are made to integrate with a 2-channel system with their own unique crossover system.  That’s what I’d do, but either way your system will be improved significantly.   Hope this helps, and best of luck. 
The current thinking is that multiple subs are the way to go.  I've messed around with subs, equalization, real time analyzers and measurement mics to get an understanding of how my perception relates to measurements.  I haven't done it yet myself but I'd buy multiple cheaper subs if I were you.  For one, your room dimensions of 13x26 are almost a perfect 1:2 ratio and will almost certainly have bad resonance problems.  Something like 4 of the below that can be placed around the room.  The individual subs would be doing a lot less work which would increase dynamics and reduce distortion.

YAMAHA YST-SW315 10" 250 Watt Powered Subwoofer Black | Accessories4less

If your Denon AV receiver has an LFE subwoofer output and possibly a calibration microphone your connectivity could be as simple as a single (inexpensive custom length RCA cable such as Blue Jeans Cable) to most any subwoofer with an RCA input. 

IMO any subwoofer/s properly located and adjusted will add a new level of satisfaction.
The essay by @erik_squires is well worth reading and is similar to my experience using subs for 15 years. It is possible to get lucky and have a sub integrate fine without a lot of trial and error, but that is the exception. The more general case -- poor integration -- is the reason so many audiophiles say "never!" to a sub in a music system. But if they would stop swapping cables around and think about the problem, most audiophiles could get it right.

To me, this statement of Erik's frames the problem very well:
A subwoofer has to integrate with your main speakers as well as the room. This means the following settings must be configured:

  • The crossover points
  • Delay / phase
  • Exaggerated room modes must be clipped via EQ
  • If you have room treatment, or other null eliminating items like open layouts you may be able to fill in nulls as well.
So, before you buy, ask yourself how you will do this.
I'd recommend reading all of Erik's essay to learn about options for sub setup. I'd also recommend reading as much else as you can about setting up subwoofers. It will not all be correct, but after a while, you'll figure out what is and what isn't. In particular, don't underestimate the importance of a continuously-variable phase control on a sub (or controlling device), at least if even bass frequency response is important to you.