Adding a Turntable Mat
@jrpnde Below are instructions on how to apply the fo.Q tape I found very helpful. I bought my tape on ebay from japan at a discount. I hope it works out for you. http://www.foq.jp/foqhp_e/product/ta32.html |
To return to your original question. I have a Rega RP1 - their basic model - which also has no VTA. It has a felt mat. I changed that for the Project Cork mat that I normally use on my VPI 16.5 record cleaning machine and the result was very positive. Definition across the board was better and the music came to life. The Rega RP1 is a very warm and dark table sound wise especially with its Rega Carbon MM cartridge. I replaced that too for an Audio Technica VM95E MM which injected much more life and air to the sound. |
A Wand of a Tonearm will usually be supplied with an internal damping material which is commonly a foam insert. I have friends who build their own Tonearms and these individuals have used various types of foam and in varying quantities. The science used by the Larger Brands have created the knowledge about the importance of Damping a Wand and I am hypothetically suggesting that custom built Tonearm producers have adopted these principals of damping. The Big Brands R&D will no doubt have produced data and subjective evaluations to select a damping method. The custom built Tonearm producers will under most circumstances used their own subjective evaluations only to select a damping method. This evaluations can be impacted on by the environment in which the assessments are being undertaken. In this case the trials with damping materials is no different to trying out Footers, Sub Plinths, Headshells, Cartridge Isolators, Platter Mats in a particular environment. The outcome of the evaluation will be subjective and possibly even bias influenced towards the favourable attributes that can be reported on. One individuals preferences will certainly not be another's. With the above in mind and if a curiosity is being raised, by all means have an extended experience by trying out a few simple to achieve trials with different materials added to particular ancillaries. This is something I have been doing over a very long period, I do have the patience for it and am still involved with it. My experiences have led me to the conviction a Platter Bearing is a critical interface and common used designs are impacting on the SQ in a manner that is detrimental. A simple redesign to remove the metal interfaces within the housing has very noticeable benefits, and the new experience is totally mesmerising as to where noise has seemingly disappeared. There is a project I am involved in that is working towards a full bearing housing overhaul. The initial feedback on the partially complete bearing overhaul prototype is very promising. To further support the upcoming changes, an easier to achieve set of trials are to be undertaken, that should work and offer new insights to a original bearing and new bearing designs Platter Spindle / Platter Interface and definitely impact on the Stylus to Platter Interface. To achieve these trials, I have recently purchased Two OEM Platters for my TT, these are to be sacrificial, in the sense that they are to be modified and used to enable the trials of being attached to different Materials, Configurations of Materials and Material Thicknesses, that are to be Bonded or Mechanically fastened to the Platter Mat or each other. A Spindle Extension is being sought out to allow for the Thicker Materials to be used in the trials. This approach is the antithesis of the usual loose lay a alternate material on the Platter. Loose Lay is not ruled out as the owned Platter Mats can still be utilised on the New Structures produced on the OEM Platter. Prior to the above I am quite keen to trial my latest acquired AT - 677 Platter Mat vs my Tenuto Mat. I have learnt from my trial experiences that I can create a change to the SQ that is for the worse, but the change can be lived with as their are sonic traits being detected in the alternative presentation offering something new to ponder. I can create a change to the SQ that is noticeably different but can't detect it as being any lesser in SQ to the preferred presentation, the question is usually whether this is a change that is to be maintained. I can create a change that is improved and enhances the overall systems performance and the SQ is much wanted to be maintained. With the selection of ancillaries I have to be put into use, I can repeat the experiences quite easily and also demonstrate my finding to others as well. Through taking some my owned additional ancillaries to other systems and having them trialled in a different environment with different devices, it has been learnt from doing this that many of my findings from trialling materials that are being referred to as attractors for my system, are not always transferrable to another system, this only occurs occasionally. There are experiences where the ancillary that I thought was to be the least impressive in the new environment proved to be the preferred on the day. |
millercarbon.....I appreciate your advice in this post as well as in others. I have a question about the application of fo.q tape on the tonearm. You mentioned that one guy wrapped the entire tonearm with it and that's not a way to go. This older Pioneer table has an "S" shaped/tubular arm. I am one with the patience to try small improvements at a time. To begin to assess the tape's effect on the tonearm/sound (not just between the cartridge and head shell) would you apply the tape in just a small area, whether circumferential or linear? Thanks |
tksteingraber, Far as I can tell they have a couple dealers here in the US but none of them carries any stock in hand. So I order direct from Mark Baker at Origin Live in the UK. I would email and ask about shipping. Mine came with my Enterprise arm. The Enabler is so small it should go in a regular mail envelope, but Mark will know for sure. |
To get your VTA right you need a high power microscope. take the cartridge off and measure the stylus to the cantilever angle. Then remount it and measure the cantilever to the record angle because the stylus is too small, it can't be done accurately. That is the only way to get it right. One high-end cartridge was 7 degrees off. Far our of my adjustment range. I put a wedge between the cartridge and the headshell and all is OK. I think someone here suggested different mat thicknesses to vary the VTA. If you want a non-reflective mat, as I prefer, get a thin sheet of sorbothane. It is very sticky to vinyl though, so cut a thing isolating layer of something so it won't adhere to the record. That makes a huge difference in sound. |
First 2 posts offer very specific opinions, and then you wrote that you “wouldn’t mess around with the mat”. ( I now realize that your original response was the 4th post.) From there the responses went off in many directions. Just thought I’d add my 2 cents, on the subject of the importance of a record mat. Did not mean to step on any toes. I’m as guilty as anyone else when it comes to digression. |
Seeking minor/inexpensive tweaks and if a different mat may or may not provide any perceptible improvement. lewm, that is a two part question. Part a) "seeking minor/inexpensive tweaks" and Part b) "if a different mat may or may not provide any perceptible improvement." The mat question was answered in the first three posts. That leaves "minor/inexpensive tweaks" which can go on forever. |
It’s very funny that the OP asks about mats, and he gets advice about a half a dozen other different tweaks by and large, with almost no mention of turntable mats. I must disagree with anyone who maintains that mats make very little difference. Rather, I think of a turntable mat as vitally important to the sonic character offered by a turntable, tonearm, and cartridge. It is rather like seasoning your food. Judicious choices can significantly affect your dining and listening pleasure.Problem is that I think each individual has to decide for himself what mat sounds best on his turntable in his system. So I would not give specific advice, except perhaps to get rid of those floppy heavy rubber mats that typically were delivered with vintage Japanese turntables of all types. Start from there. My additional advice would be to get rid of the OEM rubber mat entirely; do not place an aftermarket mat on top of the OEM mat. |
Lots of good advice here! I second the motion to lubricate or make sure the bearing on your TT is properly lubricated! A good habit to get into is to check that on an annual basis or more frequently, depending upon how much you spin your records. With regard to TT mats, if you haven't done so already, I would recommend some reading on Analog Planet and/or Stereophile, among other reputable publications. If memory serves correctly, I believe Michael Fremer may have done an article or two on this and I don't think he's fond of felt mats. As I recall, I think he said they generate static electricity and would wreak havoc on a stylus in an oops moment. Before experimenting with mats, I would recommend using a record clamp if you aren't already. I very much like and have been using this one for quite some time now: Michell - Reflex Record Clamp | Shop Music Direct Check the spindle clearance on your Pioneer to make sure this will work or just ask Michell, Music Direct or whomever. There are other less expensive clamps like The Record Doctor and a few others. I've never used anything other than the Michell and found I don't need to use the included optional washer recommended for significantly warped records. I only have 1 record with a slight but significant warp. It's unplayable without the Michell clamp but plays beautifully with it and no washer. Record pucks or weights accomplish the same idea. However, I've never liked the notion of putting significant extra weight on a TT bearing. If you decide to do the record clamp or weight thing, just for fun, play your favorite record without the clamp or weight, first. Then, play it again with the clamp or weight right afterwards. I wasn't expecting much when I did this. However, I was quite pleasantly surprised with the results. Good Luck! And please let us know how you make out! |
Turntables of this era came with a ribbed rubber mat that does not support the record over the entire playing area. Ken Kessler of Hi-Fi News has been experimenting with mats and weights that fit over the spindle, in recent issues. These are all relatively inexpensive, so much so that one can try and sell on if need be. I had a Pioneer PL-12D and started by inverting the rubber mat placing it ribbed side down. Cork or felt mats are worth a try. I replaced the headshell on mine, which was better than the standard issue. A new drive belt might also be appropriate. |
My Experiences undertaken with changing TT Mats to learn how the interface is affected between Platter and Stylus, has led me to the use of Mats made up of many different materials. As I have quite a few different materials I have loaned these out to other TT owners for demonstrations of them and comparisons between them in their own systems. I have heard these Mats on Belt Drive, Idler Drive and DD TT's. In my assessment there is not one Mat I have used that excels as the most noticeable type across all three Motor Drives. A Mat that has impressed and has been adopted by other users after my introduction and maintained as their Mat of choice, is a Mat produced from a Material called Forex Foam, this is inexpensive and a good place to begin. Two Tenuto Mat users are now using Forex Foam as their preferred choice. |
Another way to change VTA is by getting a Pete Riggle VTA adapter. They work great, and it will allow an easy, adjustment for most any mat thickness. I haven't used many different tables over the years, but I've been using a Garrad 401 for quite a while. I've used a few different mats with it. but I keep going back to my solid copper mat. Best of luck with your Pioneer table. I enjoy using some older equipment, so I hope it works out for you. Regards, Dan |
I wouldn't mess around with the mat but there are quite a few budget tweaks that I know from experience will noticeably improve that table. First of all check the bearing. Everything from back then is old enough for bearing lube to go dry so clean and lube the bearing. Then get Nobsound springs. $30 gets you four footers with springs. They will go right under the factory feet. They come with 7 springs per pod, but you will only need 2-3 per pod for your table. This will leave you with enough springs to make more pods for more components. To copy the Nobsound pods simply drill 1/4" holes in some wood or plastic. This nets you a nice improvement for 2 or maybe even 3 components. Not bad for $30. Next, VTA. You do have VTA, every turntable does, it is just that the lower end tables call for a little more creativity and ingenuity. It is the tracking angle we are trying to change. Doesn't have to be the whole arm. Loosen the cartridge slightly, slide a very thin shim in at the rear this will have the effect of lowering VTA. Or do the same at the front, this will raise VTA. If you do try a cork mat, or any mat that changes the level of the LP, then you will want to try this VTA trick to get back to where it was before. Also keep in mind the way the cartridge is held does affect the sound. So another thing you can do is try different materials between the cartridge and head shell. This brings us to your next inexpensive improvement, fO.q tape. At about $60 this is expensive as far as tape goes. But one tiny little piece between the cart and head shell and you will know it is worth it. With the rest try pieces under the platter, on the plinth, on the tone arm tube, etc. This stuff is highly effective at eliminating micro-vibrations. The result is you hear a lot more detail that before was smeared and hidden. Again, this is serious stuff. Try it in one area at a time, listening and evaluating as you go. The only guy I know didn't like it ignored this advice and wrapped his whole arm in one fell swoop. Don't be that guy. It does have an excellent adhesive that can be removed and reapplied without leaving goop behind. Works on all kinds of components. I have it in my Herron phono stage inside the chassis, on circuit boards, and caps. Also on caps in my crossovers. Takes a while to apply and use it all up but by the time you do it all adds up to a pretty impressive improvement. Another $30 that is highly effective, Origin Live Cartridge Enabler. This one is highly effective all by itself. The cumulative effect of fO.q tape is probably greater, but takes a lot more time and effort. The Cartridge Enabler is one you will hear right away. It does raise the head shell up a bit so this will have the effect of lowering VTA. So if you go the thin cork mat route that will have the effect of raising VTA, and Cartridge Enabler will neutralize that, might be a good combination way to go. |
You want to replace the original mat with something that's same or very close in thickness. Otherwise, you're changing VTA, which may be more audible than the mat material's impact. On a high quality table, you should hear differences in all of them, but I can't say if that will translate with your PL-530. Searching archives you can read about the nature of the changes from mat-to-mat. There are a number of them with strong advocates. Cheers, Spencer |
Shelf liner was popular 15-20 yrs ago. I still have some from my days with an MMF-7. It worked. But care must be taken that you get the stuff that doesn't bleed and mark your platter &/0r vinyl. I know there are others that offer a trial period. You just have to experiment with what works best for you |
