DSP is the most versatile tweak you can try.
Snake oil and tweaks that work!
This is in no way intended to bring out argument but discussion of tweaks people have tried and have found success with. I know there are at least 50% of you out there that think everything in audio is snake oil, and you are initialed to those opinions. Please don't make this your battle field! If you want to start an opposing thread calling us nuts and getting in arguments please do, it might be fun to have both going. I want this one to be an informational for people who want to try things. I for one have tried a lot of the recommendations in Stereophile each month, most don't work for me, but I have found a few things that do work. #1 tweak: Speaker location. Even a 1/16" can make all the difference. I try to play with this about every six months. A dedicated circuit from the panel with 10ga. wire had a very noticeable improvement. Cables and wires matter, some have been good for my system, some real bad. We have plenty of threads covering this so lets no go there. The "Bedini Ultra Clarifier" works amazingly well for me, I know it's crazy but it works! The Cardas caps I got for X-mas really worked, they produced a more quite background, go figure. Black Diamond Racing "the Puck and the Shelf " have been great improvements, all the different cones I've tried change the sound, I haven't found one I would recommend. The Audio Prism Quiteline filters work great, but power conditioners and RFI/EMI ferrets did nothing. The last thing that has helped me is furniture location, I find if I move something only an inch it can help or hurt. I look forward to hearing others experiences.
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Thanks, for the explanation E. I get the picture. Had wondered what the impact on temperature might be (which you addressed). Found some sheets of the black stuff on Amazon. Not very expensive, either. In addition to your usages, I am wondering about using it to help with static buildup on LPs. Fix a small piece to the turntable plinth and have this in light contact with the side of the turntable platter itself. Stick a drain wire in it connected to TT ground. Thanks again. |
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jaybe, Yes, I would say the effects are similar. They both lower the noise floor, and work well together. I found the iQSEs work best when placed close to a power transformer. Inside the chassis, if possible/practical, but they still work well placed on the outside. I currently have 6 in my system. I added them one by one, and heard further improvements each time, so be prepared, if you go down that road 😉 |
My favs over the past 25 years or so, including ones I never actually tried. Is that wrong? Selected for their perception as Oil of the Snake 🐍 by newbies they’re listed in no particular order, The Icons of Snake Oil Shun Mook Mpingo disc Schumann frequency generator Green Pen Brian Kyle’s Quicksilver Gold Nordost Anti Static spray for CDs, LPs and interconnects Original Intelligent Chip Franck Tchang’s tiny little bowl resonators Brian Kyle’s Liquid Resolution CD treatment Tice Clock PWB Red X Pen PWB Silver Rainbow Foil Pavane Crystal bracelet for CD player Brian Kyle’s Tourmaline Gun WA Quantum Chips Low Fequency High Permeability Mu Metal for big transformers |
Two controversial (at least to those who’ve never tried them) tweaks that have made substantial improvements in my system are: Synergistic Research Quantum Blue Fuses (Yes, they are directional.) Bybee iQSEs (internal Quantum Signal Enhancers) On the less controversial side, the GutWire Ultimate Ground Cable may be the single best tweak I've tried, so far. |
@cleeds "Confirmation Bias" is indeed the other attack. I had a neat experience the other evening. I decided to spin Elgar's Enigma Variations on reissued RCA Living Presence LP. I bought the album years ago when a great sale was being run, having read numerous times that it, as a composition, is considered to be a part of what should be in any orchestral music lover's collection. I remember playing it and not enjoying it at all. Playing lots of vinyl lately as I just got a new phono stage. Played it the other night and put down my laptop. It really caught my attention. I was liking the music this time. In fact, I was so surprised by my new reaction to this piece that I played both sides twice. Liked it both times. My "confirmation bias" would work against me liking that LP. If "confirmation bias" played such a great role in my perceptions as some here claim then I should not have enjoyed the Elgar piece. |
hifiman5 To me, at least, "snake oil" is a pejorative for tweaking.I am inclined to agree. There are a few posters here that seem poised to pounce on subjective evaluations, chiming in with demands for level-matched double blind testing, for example. When contributors here decline, they are taunted with claims of "snake oil" or the other canard: "Confirmation bias." |
Gee, it’s almost like folks around these parts haven’t quite figured out how the internet works. When it comes to Audio Forums and those pesky little naysayer scamps, everything always starts with the very best of intentions, very idealistic like, but pretty soon the General Rule is, Build it and they will Come. 😀 Once they get a foothold in your house it’s almost impossible to get rid of them. 😛 |
To me, at least, "snake oil" is a pejorative for tweaking. I can’t believe there is anyone posting here who hasn’t tweaked their components, their room, their overall layout. Some of us go to greater tweaking extremes than others. So what? How does it hurt someone if I share a tweak I’ve employed in my system that, to me, has improved the sonics of my system. You get to decide as the reader whether that tweak has credibility for you. I want to learn from others about tweak techniques that have improved their listening experience that I may have never considered! I have benefitted a great deal from the experiences of others here and my listening experience is better for it. That and the great personal anecdotes that people share here are what make spending time here valuable to me. |
Hey! Whatever your belief system about audio engineering or snake oil (whatever that is), in the end, always trust your ears to guide you as you continue to develop your system! It is your system after all. As happy as I am with my system as it currently is, I am sure many here would not find it to satisfy their listening preferences. Their ears would not like it as mine do. That's okay. That's why the capitalist audio economy has so many varying offerings from so many successful companies.🎼 |
kosst_amojan658 posts12-11-2017 9:08pm I can't believe I'm reading somebody deriding engineers for being obsessed with good circuits and not considering snake oil enough.It's okay, because I don't believe that you have that read that. Who here stated that engineers should consider snake oil? Please provide some quotes. Or, do you just feel free to label anything you like snake oil, and then blame us for your righteous indignation? |
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For those of you using springs or spring based devices, or thinking of it, here’s a heads up! You can get better isolation, at least on paper, by mass loading the springs as much as possible. Springs can be loaded to the point where the coils almost start to touch. This usually means compressing the springs about half their uncompressed height. On the other hand, depending how soft the springs are and how tall, you might need to observe center of gravity issues. So, keep additional mass COG as low as possible. Since resonant frequency is a function of the square root of MASS if you can double the mass you can lower the resonant frequency by about 30%. Remember that the total spring rate in the equation for Fr is the number of springs x spring rate per spring. For springs, as a general rule, the way things work out is the best you can do is about 2 Hz. Even when you minimize the number of springs and maximize the mass. Which is actually very good, indeed. But you won’t be able to get down to 1 Hz without resorting to more uh, severe methods. Since a lot of seismic energy is in the region 0-2 Hz, the lower the better rule applies. Of course how the component is interfaced to the top plate and how the top plate is interfaced to the floor or rack is something worth pursuing. And damping the top plate is another area for investigation. Pop quiz - Anybody ever construct a double layer mass on spring platform? |
The resurrected thread! Since this has been brought back to life, I'll add something for those ending up here after an internet search: the partially inflated inner tube idea can be bettered by placing compression springs under the component instead of an inner tube. I find the inner tube muddied the sound, while springs brought all the benefits of isolation without the muddying effects of rubber. You can buy springs cheaply online at Grainger, for instance. Calculate the load you'll need by dividing the weight of what you're trying to isolate by the number of springs you want to use. Less is better, so use 3 or 4. Then look up springs wth that load. Purchase compression springs with a diameter of at least 1/2" so they are stable. Also, it's better to have a slightly longer spring with a lower spring rate than a shorter sprong with a higher rate |
Another tweak that works :
312 posts12-10-2017 5:13pmThere is a relatively new product called Anti Vibration Magic, which works. The painters tape mimics the same effect. A buddy of mine uses black electrical tape ( which comes in many colors ). AVM is quite expensive ( imo ), and is used by a few high end audio manufacturers, and is very popular in the diy community. A long, long time ago, I was one of the 1st ( that I knew of ) that used mortite, under the platters of direct drive tts. At that time, I had a friend who was an engineer with Nakamichi, who told me about a simple and easy tweak, that I have been doing for years ( similar to AVM ). This tweak was to use a non glue, waterproof, silicon sealant, available at your Lowes or HD ( even Walmart ), and with a tooth pick ( or something like it ), apply to areas within a component. Wiring, capacitors, circuit boards and the chassis. Caveat : MUST LET IT DRY. It is all removable, and, can be quite messy. But, incredible improvement. This can be for the same purpose as adding a piece Dynamat ( or similar product ) to the underside of a component lid, to dampen vibrations. Anyone who feels I am looney ( kosst ), I do not care. Never knock it until you try it. MrD mrdecibel312 posts12-10-2017 5:29pmIf anyone wants to try it, I use Dynaflex 230, window and door sealant, by DAP. It is available in a squeeze tube, but I purchase it in the 10.1 ounce tubes. If you purchase it in these larger tubes, you need a caulk gun, and, need to puncture a seal at the bottom of the tip ( after cutting off the tip itself ). The color does not matter, but I use clear. It comes out white, but becomes clear after it dries. I finished up a Monster Cable power thingy, and, unbelievable ( not my first conditioner ). Another thing. i DO NOT DO THIS ON ANY EQUIPMENT UNDER A MANUFACTURES WARRANY, as it would likely void it. I only dabble in the used market anyway, and, I do it to products I intend to keep.mrdecibel312 posts12-10-2017 5:40pmOne last thing. There are many parts within a component that are temperature sensitive, in other words, get hot ( transistors, resistors, transformers, tubes ), that I encourage caution. I do not apply on these, but if given room and with proper heat dissipation, certainly around them. For tubes, I recommend dampers, and not caulk ( or AVM ).mrdecibel312 posts12-10-2017 5:45pmLast thing. Certain parts within a component chassis are very heat sensitive, and require dissipation of that heat ( transistors, resistors, transformers, and some others ). Proceed with caution. I leave these components alone, but will apply around them if given the room for proper heat dissipation. Tubes, I recommend dampers, nothing more.geoffkait |
Standard fuse tweak 311 posts12-09-2017 12:34amA test, for anyone who is interested. Take a 1 1/2 inch piece of painters tape ( I use the blue Scotch 3M 1 inch width size roll ), cut this piece the long way, to get yourself a 1/2 inch wide strip, and apply it on the glass of the fuse, leaving a bit of the glass showing on each end of the fuse, and put the fuse back. Of course, make sure the equipment is off, when you are doing this, clean the ends of the fuse of fingerprints, reinsert the fuse, and listen. Keep in mind, the equipment needs to warm up ( restabilize ). Do 1 fuse at a time. Can do this on any fuse. Let me know what you hear ? And yes, I am a tweaker. mrdecibel311 posts12-09-2017 12:36amMaybe, just maybe, keep the fuse in the same direction as before removing it |
The following tweaks work for me in my system: 1) Clean all system contacts every 6 months. 2) Herbie Audio Labs Tenderfeet under components, tube dampers, interconnect dampers, Super Black Hole CD mat, Grungebuster LP mat. 3) Mass damping top of chassis 4) Use green POSCA pen on CD edges - yes the sound is more focused. 5) Treat all CDs with "Rain-X" It shines up the surface and makes removing future smudges/grime much easier. 6) Purist Audio Design System Enhancer disc - especially great to hasten burn in of new components. 7) Cardas frequency/demag. LP I'll repeat what I've said previously...this is, at least for me, the fun part of the hobby. This is where we get to "tune/enhance" our systems to our ear's desires. |
1. If you have a turntable that uses a belt, replace the belt with a custom belt built by originlive.com This is not a subtle improvement, its major. 2. Change out your speaker terminals with Cardas copper terminals. 3. Use Caig Gold contact enhancer on all terminations including tube pins. Don't forget your the spade lugs on your speaker cables (both ends). 4. Invest in a ten pack of Synergistic Research High Frequency Transducers (HFT's) and place them around the room as per the directions. 5. Replace all fuses in your sysem with Synergistic Research BLACK fuses. 6. If you're into vinyl and haven't done so yet, invest in a VPI record cleaning machine. 7. Stop listening to your equipment and listen instead to the music. OP |
Thanks for the info Jcbtubes. Have been using it for about 8 months now with no detrimental effects, just positive ones. I use only small amounts on power contacts (plugs and iec's) and it's worked for me so far. But I'll keep my ears open. From your post, it sounds like someone was using this stuff internally in the manufacture of their gear-what exactly were they using it in and where were they applying it? |
Hdm- You might want to think twice about that silicone dielectric grease! A couple of dealers were having problems with the sound of a vendor's (very expensive) power equipment changing over time, and not for the better. After investigating the possible causes, the vendor determined that it was the grease which was causing the degradation in sound. It is no longer used in the production of their equipment. Obviously, the grease can be removed with solvents (alcohol), so no permanent harm done. Just keep it in mind if things start sounding uninvolving and lacking dynamics. Goodluck. |
It was just a misunderstanding Retroguy. It sounded so outlandish and I jumped. I'm sorry, it's not my normal reaction. I've had it with some of the people on this site and I figured.... I figured wrong, no hard feelings I hope. I've enjoyed your other posts, I should have thought! YES!!!! Is that cool or what. I've read a couple of preliminary reports. I'm not sure I understand ant of it, but the laws of physics are on shakey ground. Stoping (freezing) light! The potential is amazing. Thanks for your understanding. J.D. |
The Rush erasers and the TI shield were both available from Mike Percy Audio Products, the last time I spoke to him. You can access him on the web at www.bainbridge.net/percyaudio His parts catalog may be downloaded as a PDF, or search for products you are looking for. Mike is a source for many hard to get resistors, caps, binding posts, adaptors, etc. Anyway, he is an honest and fair person, and his prices are good. His phone number, although he is difficult to reach, is 415-669-7181. 10:00 Am to 9:00 PM, West Coast time. If you get him by phone, tell him Albert ask about "Ollie." (It is his pet bird that sits with him during the long hours on the phone.) |
I'm sorry, I have to ask one more question. Would you believe that a group of dutch scientists slowed the speed of light down to 23 meters/ps last year. Further more, just very recently at least two independent groups slowed it down to zero velocity. It happene in both cases, if you can do proper research, the info is readily available. |
Jadem6, I'm sorry that you don't believe my statement. George Melior was doing some very unusual stuff in the early 90's. Rather than be arrogant and rebuffing my statement as tripe, look into it yourself. You will find evidense that this was available from Museatex at a cost of $10.00 per cd. I'll be happy to leave your thread alone. |
Okay, Furniture location works for me too. I hate to change it even though some furniture is arranged in most un-orthodox fashion in the family room. $1.20 tweak on both main L-R and rear Surround works for me ( You know I am not really sure but all I got to spare is $2.40). The other day I finally tried partially inflated 12" bicylce tube like on of the post suggested ( I tried to go back to the post to report my findings, but could not find it since the Audigon regrouping), but did not work for MY CD player.The sound was forward, lost focus somewhat and background noise slightly increased. Not to mention, the cd drawer kept getting stuck for a while, after the tube removal. This WOULD work for some CD player and won't for some. It all depends on thier natureal freq modes and its excitation with the internal mech induced random vibaration in addition to airborne pressure induced vibration. The natural freq modes of two set ups ( as stock and as used with tube) are diffrent. I think, assuming if the mfr has designed it right, the spikes generated due to random vib enviroment falling at lower freq modes are remote (the body stiffened accordingly). The tube in the middle supported differently would have now have diffrent natural modes which MAY BE GOOD OR BAD and therefore vary from brand to brand. But best thing is to NOT fiddle with the CD player support. Best option is have the shelf very thick(stiff), held such way that it has high fixity at the ends( again for same reason: you wanna keep the the shelf natural freq modes as high as possible not to interact with CD Player system modes) and CD player top should have shelf right on top panel, not touching but as to kill/block acoustic pressure caused by sound pressure. Weighing down top panel, I have not tried, but once again MAY WORK OR NOT.Therfore I doubt very much the usefulness of the Black diamond racing cones and similar products. It may or may not work. TRY FIRST IF YOU HAVE AN OPTION. |
There is a fiberglass brush, sold by Rush eraser in New York, that will polish metals to new bright condition. Using them on the AC (male) plugs on all your power cords, and on tube pins (obviously, only if you have tubes), will immediately improve performance across the board. If this polishing is done with the Rush eraser dipped into ART oil, the connection is enhanced even further. Cleaning with this same ART oil (no brush) on all your RCA or balanced connections is a big help too. Lately have been experimenting with Caig gold in place of the ART, but have not yet come to a conclusion. The Cardis "sweep" LP will do amazing things, if while the stylus is playing in the groove, you run the Aesthetix (Benz) de mag, or the older Audioquest De mag, connected to the RCA jacks of your turntable. A total time of about 30 seconds will de flux the cartridge to perfection. Texas Instruments makes a metal called TI shield, and if a section of it (about as large as your CD player) is placed between the CD, DVD or whatever digital source, and a preamp, amp or other piece of equipment that radiates magnetic fields, there will be an immediate improvement in the digital sound. If the source of magnetic noise is above and below the digital player, you will need a sheet in both locations. This last one is strange but completely true, if you can find a TRUE ground, connect a wire from it to the metal stand that supports your preamp, amp, turntable or digital player. (Probably between the stand and the spike near the floor?) If there are radio waves or other transmitted (RF) signals present, your music will have greater dynamics, more black (lower noise), and reduced brittleness in the high frequencies. I have actually heard radio stations clearly picked up by the shape of equipment stands. Often, the length of the frame and crossbars are the exact dimensions to become a perfect antenna for a signal, some miles away. The ground wire drains this completely, where changing cables, and experimenting with various other grounds in the system did nothing to solve the problem. Often there is a gain, even when the radio station is too weak to be clearly heard through the system. It costs nothing to try the last one, and it can be huge. Best wishes! |
