Shahinian Obelisk vs VandersteenTreo

You mentioned that there was only wood in the place where the threads should go.
I just realized that the previous owner may have removed the metal threaded inserts-Why, I don't know. 
If this is the case, then you need to replace them in order to mount the spikes.
Check out this link:
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DSS2-BC-Chrome-Speaker/dp/B003BFWQIU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=...
You need those things on the left. Or, maybe some T-Nuts:
https://www.amazon.com/binifiMux-Pronged-Assortment-Carbon-T-Nuts/dp/B076VL9RM5/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&...
Hopefully, the previous owner didn't enlarge the holes too much.
With Wood filler and Wood Glue, you should be able to install them without much difficulty.
B

Gentlemen,
Can you please measure the distance between the floor and 1. back and 2. front bottom parts of the speaker: I am trying to determine the length of spikes and cones. What is the difference between front and Back, how much are they tilted in your case?
Thanks!

i called the sage of Hanford..left a message..

you might be on your own till Tuesday, ( put that on repeat in your CD player )

if by some crazy chance I get an answer will post it up

@tomic601 
I think you have something there and taking a pic of the threads is the best way to go.
Post it on the Virtual Systems page.
This is really odd.
Bob

Thanks and Happy Holidays kavakat 1.
 Most likely the only post ever on here that mentions my home town !

GO, ORANGE !

Johnny R
    
I saw you mention TechHiFi.  In Syracuse on "The Hill" across from Marshall Street? Bought my first stereo there from Lynn. Bartended across the street at the Orange while in school. Wow, that was 45 years ago. 

gently lay speakers on sides and Tuesday take a photo / email / call Vandersteen
i have never setup Quattros but have 5a and 7 and this does not seem right.... which may also explain your sellers loss of the missing cones....

.
 Try a bar of soap or beeswax on the threads
 Of course, if you got the right threads and legnth that is.
Maybe its time for the correct items above?
Best,
 JohnnyR

They do, but they are not metal: just the wooden stuff the speakers are made of. Not used to this.  Ruined q of an inch of thread. 
Guess they need to go deeper..

Huh? 
What, the speakers have no internal threads?
Maybe you can start a Virtual System page.
We'll sort this out...
Bob

Schiit....
It's all wrong. 
No metal inserts. 

All done, will try to screw them in tomorrow.
Can’t attach pics here. How’s it done?

Oooh, sweet!

Having them manufactured locally. Will show you pics once they are ready.

(()(So, the total we are 4 front cones and 2 back spikes, right? )))))
  Yes correct

They are. We are all metric and centigrade, you know...

As for the size: "The two fronts are cones ¼ X 20 threads and a special spike in the rear with spacers for tilt 3/8 X 16 thread."

So, total we are 4 front cones and 2 back spikes, right?

5a cones are 1/4 x 20 i believe.....probably rare as hens teeth in Russia....

I looked those SPL meters up, and  I can get a cheapo version here.

Great, now we're getting somewhere. You can even substitute some bolts for the cones, until they arrive. Just get the proper thread( I think it is 3/8-16).  Put the bolt head downward and add a lock nut. The spikes are about an inch to 1.25 inches tall (at least on my Treo's), so you would probably want a 1.75 inch bolt(depending on how level your floors are). Follow the manual's set up directions for angling and you're good to go. Then on to equalizing them.
B

Bob,
I looked those SPL meters up, and  I can get a cheapo version here.

Tom,
Point taken, thanks.

audio tools runs on my ipad...
what is unknown is the mapping of the microphone to the RS analog meter, IF I were home I could do this....

i would say use what you have as long as you can generate test tones on the Vandersteen EQ centers

remember we are NOT trying to equalize perfectly flat anyway just knock down the bigger nodes and fix cancellation a bit

@ja_zz 
Why don't you just buy a Radio Shack SPL Meter off Ebay and be done with it? If you were closer, you could borrow mine. (Or, you could fly me to Russia. I need a vacation...).
Using the cheapo Radio Shack meter is easier and if you run into problems, we can help you. (Well, probably Johnny).
B

"... guess it might..."

Tom,
I do have a USB mike somewhere: bought it for some room-compensating EQ SW that I never got to using...
So I guest it night work out.
Audiotools works on a Mac?

Jazz
i understand
no stones just want you getting as Johnny said “ what you paid for”

now about the spl meter... my understanding is that Vandertones are compensated to adjust for non linearity of the R Shack meter

i have used Audiotools and a calibrated microphone with the Vandertones disc with ok results.

note also the analog eq centers are not what you typically see on an RTA as they represent typical room issues versus octave intervals....

so for best results buy a meter meter and download vandertones

If I'm not mistaken Jacqueline V. is the person you will speak with when you call Vandersteen Audio.

Johnny,
This is plan indeed.  I just can't spend much time on this: I only see my family 2 days out of 7, and my wife is already jealous of the audio and forums :-) The two small boys are too.  So I am getting there, but just not too fast. 
Who is Jacqeline V? 
The previous owner promised to find those spikes. 

Jazz
PH for Vandersteen 5595820324
Order a Vandersteen Quatro spike kit from Jacqueline V.
Owners Manual hard copy
it should also come with the Vishay precision screwdriver
4 black front cones 2 for each speaker
2 special back slot spikes
extra outriggers for stability
variety of washers.
if you have wood floors 6 Vandersteen floor protectors
these maintain floor protection and desired low profile.
CD Vandertones has the correct tuning frequencies  
Tomic mentioned a Radio Shack( analog type) meter E bay has for calibration reasons.
 if you can follow the above without any substitutions you will be on the correct path to enjoy music.
Sorry, you are expecting rocks but as you will see when you follow thru
with proper setup tilt-back in-room response adjustments, all of your prior observations will change and improve in a dramatic way.
 Best JohnnyR
 

Tom,
They were centered initially when they came in.
There are plenty SPL programs for smartphones. I was planning to use one of them. Now, throw your stones at me ;-)

Hey, listen, I AM WORKING ON IT :-)

Appreciate your advice anyway. 

Johnny R is right....take the time to go thru the setup per the manual and it is downloadable along with Vandertones via the Vandersteen website
must get the Radio Shack analog SPL meter to set the bass EQ
you will be shocked at how bumpy your room - any room is without fixing it...
finally get the eq controls centered as previous owner probably set them to room..

Jazz
nothing wrong w you PRE amp
The fact you are commenting about
how anything sounds without doing the proper set up protocols
is very confusing to your audience 
and yorself
and that would in return give you
half assed results you need to read the owners manual and get the spikes , spacers and parts to experience what you paid for
JohnnyR

I, too, am a bit confused by Johnny's post.
@ja_zz 
Yes, you need the spikes/cones installed on the speakers. Didn't yours come with a set?
They disconnect the speaker from the floor and help with clarity/imaging.
Tilt back, too, is necessary for proper imaging, soundstage, getting the tweeters at the right height.
If you don't have a set, contact Johnny. You could also get some threaded gliders from Herbie's.
http://herbiesaudiolab.net/spkrfeet.htm#stud
B

And what is that in a preamp?

ja_zz 1m

What exactly do you mean by "a real preamp without ICs in the path"?

In this context, IC = integrated circuit.

JohnnyR,
What exactly do you mean by "a real preamp without ICs in the path"? My preamp is quite real, and if you go separates vs integrated, you will always have ICs ( interconnects?) In the path. Or am I getting something wrong?
Also, what’s wrong with Conrad Johnson?
I have no spikes/cones whatsoever, so no. Need to buy them.
And I haven’t done the in-room compensation thing yet.

(((3 out of 4 are DACs with volume regulator, the last one is a streamer  with this)))

 Bleak at best.
 Try and find or keep a real preamp without ICs in the path.
 Audio Research Ayre Aesthetix etc
 have you done the in-room compensation set up?
 Have you read the manual and done tilt back?
 Are your spikes / cones installed and tight?
 Best JohnnyR

Thanks.
Waiting for the CJ to open up.
Frankly, looking at upgrading my power amp to an Aesthetix Atlas. Not sure that this is THE weak link in my system, but it got me thinking...

Ayre is white light pure water adds very very little coloration.... Charley ( RIP ) a very talented and principled designer, a genius and a very astute ear.... so the rep in my opinion well deserved!

until recently I hung my Reference amp hat on his VX-R Twenty
bested by Richard Vandersteen new amp but at a price for sure

as for your pre-amp CJ
give it a chance those are some very talented guys with good ears and design sense.....

Bob,
I Will experiment more, certainly. 
Everybody on this forum seems to like Ayre a lot.  Why? And what about other pre's ?
mr_m,
No more XLR-RCA's. No more. 

You might want to use caution in using a XLR to RCA cable with the Codex. I believe Ayre says doing this can damage the Codex.

Yes !!!!!!!!!!!!

Super!
Sometimes the simplest things make the most difference.
You might want to consider an Ayre Codex. It can function as a DAC or preamp, too.
B

Privet comrades :-))

I really don’t know how to put it mildly, but I think I found part of the problem.
Since XLR output of my CHORD DAC64 is somewhat better, than RCA, I was using an XLR->RCA cable. Simple and handmade.
Well, I read in Stereophile review of this DAC that it outputs over 6V of signal out of its XLR out and a bit over 3V through RCA.
Well I replaced this cable with a simple RCA-RCA cable (an Atlas something). And... it shone. The system and the speakers.
Wow. A totally different sound. Open, natural, airy. I'm loving it :-)

I was thinking Mcintosh D100, Meridian G02 OR a Mytek Brooklyn. One other option I was considering was a Cambridge Audio 851N.
3 out of 4 are DACs with volume regulator, the last one is a streamer  with this functionality too.
But the CJ is improving. If it keeps doing so maybe I will keep it. 

What preamp are you considering, should you replace the CJ?
I have to say that since you changed tubes, you probably should give it a good 4-500 hours to settle in.
Bob

 Well, the preamp is improving.  I put it up on sale anyway, so if it sells, will replace it.  If not - will try to live with it, replace the tube once again, maybe. I am not 100% happy with the sound yet: not spacious enough, also not perfect in terms of tonal balance. Replaced the speaker wires, the Nordost gives a brighter sound, which is as improvement in my case. 

cool !
man i can hardly imagine the logistics trail to you and back in Russia.....something we take for granted here...our Winter place is a relatively short 5 hour drive from Vandersteen Mecca......

That is great to hear-pun intended.
Are you going to switch out the preamp?
B

Fixed it locally. Looks like it was a manufacturing defect. Disassembled, cleaned, assembled back.
These drivers are made by hand. Amazing.
Enjoying the sound as I write.