Shahinian Obelisk vs VandersteenTreo


HI fellow ’goners.
I own the Shahinians, thinking of upgrading to the Treos. The Obelisks sound a little smallish for the room... And the room is not square, it's a big living area of a house, with access to the second floor's roof. 
Will this be an upgrade or just a sideward move?
Room approx 60m2, driven by Musical Fidelity A5.5, 250wpc at 8Ohm (thinking of replacing this one too).
Mostly jazz and acoustic music, less frequently - classical and pop.
Thanks!

ja_zz
@audioconnection ,
Well, I don’t have the XLR HPFs. Just the RCA.
The sound changed once I had the amp replaced,  sounds a bit mellow now. Need to re-tune the bass section, too, like you @tomic601 and @audioconnection suggested.
Great to have your wisdom and help,  gents. 
Jazz
apples to apples
not oranges
had you both RCA  and XLR external types
you would of seen what I mean
the Atlas run in XLR will sound best because it's a true Balanced amp.
enjoy
JohnnyR
jazz

we had stake in Aero Vodochody
light attack/ trainers and the various section structures work they picked up as a subcontractor to primes...
Tested the built-in xlr crossover vs rca quatro. The built-in sounded more open and transparent.
@audioconnection , your experience is different, right?
oh man jazz one of my favorite cities in tge world...a hot Aesthetix date in that town !!!!!!!!
as you no doubt know a stop in Pilsen for some beer and MEAT is an essential diversion.....

man, i dont miss trying to build airplanes there...but I do miss that corner of the world..

keep us in the loop on the sounds
@audioconnection ,
Johnny, kudos to you. Thanks for all your time and effort.
I only really needed the info on the lower inputs and crossover frequency setting, but your input is really commendable. Thanks A LOT.
I am picking the amp up today in ... Prague :-)  Great reason for a fun trip with my better half. The beer is fabulous and the pork knuckles are fantastic... as always. 
(((I also hope there is a section in the Atlas manual for setting the HPF for Vandees)))

 When hooking up the Atlas both channels are a mirror image of each other.
Speaker binding posts Positive and Negative are in reversed positions on the back of amp look closely at what you are doing with + - and you will be fine.
As for the interconnects if you are going to use the Atlas internal High Pass install your interconnects to the lower available inputs, keeping the amp in mute touching the right side of the black rectangle display window located on front center of amp allows selecting on proper inputs chose accordingly input 2 either SE for RCA or input 2 Bal XLR and then Set Crossover to 100 by adjusting display window and lock and your set.
 Best JohnnyR
@audioconnection 
As a matter of fact I was planning to use the DAC straight into the amp.  My HPFs are RCA, rest of the setup is balanced, wanted to put them away. No point in buying another set of HPFs.
HP units are worth keeping they will sound just a bit cleaner then built ins
If you Just use the Vandersteen XLR Battery Bias HP filters switched to 3/5 into the top Atlas XLR inputs you may not need anything else anymore.
 Best JohnnyR

@audioconnection 
I thought with the Atlas's built-in HPF I don't need the Vandy external HPF any more?
I also hope there is a section in the Atlas manual for setting the HPF for Vandees.
(((Atlas stereo and mono both have serious low end vise like control, probably worth looking at vandertones again just to see....
best)))

 Yes agree, solid advice........
 With Aesthetix Atlas or when changing from any amp make sure you reset the XLR high Pass Dip Switches to corresponding input impedance adjust all back to open and then set dip 3 / 5 closed for Aesthetix's proper 100 HZ x over setting.
 Best JR
the Atlas is a very very fine match !!!
Jim White and RV are collaborators for sure to wit the built in high pass filters
keep us in the loop
the Atlas stereo and mono both have serious low end vise like control, probably worth looking at vandertones again just to see....
best

That's great to hear!
I knew the Vandies would wow you.
The Atlas should be a good match, too.
B
Just an update: if things work out right, I will have an Aesthetix Atlas in my system starting Sunday. Looking forward to that :-)
Meanwhile replaced the CHORD DAC64 with a Reimyo DAP-777 and tuned the Quatros to the room. What an improvement, both of these things! The Quatros are shining brighter and brighter by the day :-)
Tomic, you are one lucky guy.-Retired and owning the M-7 amps. 
Sheesh...
Bob
;)
I had the Ayre VX-R Twenty and it is no slouch for sure
i would say any amp Ayre makes is worth trying for sure
Charlie a gifted engineer with ears, RIP brother

i amrunning Richards amp now...... holy S
........ staying up my bedtime listening is my new avocation...

thank God I am retired...

ha


@ja_zz 
For me, Hifi Shark is the best place to keep up with used offerings.
That's where I saw the MX-R's
B
Just spent some time at Audio Connection this past weekend.  Had a great time there with Johnny R.  Listened to Vandy 2s, 3A Sigs, & quatro's.  Loved the 3A sigs for their open spacious sound, stepping up to the Qs was another level of sonic bliss.  Fast, dynamic, and wide open.  Loved the powered sub in them.  Ready for another round with Johnny R soon.

Happy Listening.
I know that there were a pair of Ayre Monoblocks for sale in France last year with 220 volt, so they are out there. 

B
Tomic601,
Trouble is, again, that I am in Russia and we are 220V...
Aesthetix sells in Europe, they are 230V, and it’s a bit closer :-)
What other brands make those 0 feedback designs?
Thanks!
Aesthetix Atlas Stereo amp is a killer
i know of one in Seattle area
maybe $5k
its at Gig Harbor Audio

Johnny,
Thanks.  These brands are not too common here where I live, but the blueprint is clear. 
What WPC is a good starting point?
Thanks again. 
Jazz
 Zero Feedback w High passed Quatros is the blueprint for best performance many will work Ayre, Aesthetix, Atmosphere Bat, the Quicksilver new120 amps have superb transformers are Made in USA hand wired without circuit boards, run cool 4395 w Russian KT 150s You get what you pay for.
 Manley hi feedback at their best controlling multiple woofers, which you don't have.
 You need a fineness amp with Zero feedback 100 HZ on up a pre-owned Ayre V5 zero feedback would be sweeter and alive on Top and better than tube amps with Hi feedback and dumbo dark transformers.
  Best JohnnyR
Gentlemen,
Thanks for your input. Quicksilver and Atma-Sphere don’t sell here, so I can’t try them.
I can get some ARC gear here, Line Magnetic, Rogue Audio, etc.
I am cautious about ARC, though, due to bad experience with their integrated - CA50. Had nothing but problems. Others aforementioned, as I understand, are entry-level tubes, made in China.
Manley is nice, love their Stingray, but on the expensive side.
What else have you had experience with vandy- and tube-wise? McIntosh? Like MC275, plenty of them around. 
Thanks!
I went with a pair of Atma-Sphere MA-1's and MP-3 for my Treo's and couldn't be happier. In fact, it is my reference system. I never had tubes before, and this combo is certainly ̶o̶n̶e̶ ̶o̶f̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶f̶i̶n̶e̶s̶t̶ , no the best I have ever heard.
And, I also have a pair of upgraded DNA-1 monoblocks from SMc Audio, and a pair of Ayre MXR (non twenty), so I could play around.-Those tubes get too hot for the summer.
Bob
We just Got in the latest Quicksilver 120 WPC mono's 2 KT 150s per side
with Ayre Dac, ARC Pre in front.
Could just be what the dr ordered with the Quatro's CTs Hi Passed running 100HZ up with the feedforward message these new Quicks are sending into the tunable Quatros powered bass section sound is really growing on me ......
 JohnnyR
 
That sense of ease... yes.
Ok, point taken.  Will look at approx 100wpc tubes.
Thanks. 

Ha!
wondered how you were doing
i had 5a with a loaner ARC Ref 75 we for a weekend
adequate for reasonable levels but did not have the sense of ease I look for....
so something North of 75 wpc...,
now having said that I am planning on trying to run a pair of Treo CT with my MC 240 ( in a Condo )
we shall see how that goes....
i do know of people running the 60 wpc Quicksilvers with much bliss....

I’m back for more :-)
I am looking at driving the Quatros with a tube amp: not completely happy with the Meridian G57 SS power amp. Still lacking something.

Your Vandee-tube experience and recommendations, comrades? :-)
What are the requirements for a tube amp to adequately drive the Vandees?
Thanks a lot!
pmaru77

you might call The Music Room in Colorado, they are fantastic and will resell. You will not likely net as much $$$$$ but you will also go thru a LOT less hassle


Any info would be appreciated and if you can redirect me to somewhere, that's cool too!
I'd suggest eBay. 
There are other local options depending on where you live (if outside the US).
There's a nice aggregator - HiFiShark.com - but it can pull data off eBay as well. So eBay in my opinion. 
I have the Diapason ensemble that I'm trying to sell and the process scared me straight.  I had to list a bank account and then it costs $100 to post the sale.  Is this correct? and what are my changes of finding a buyer?  I'd be glad the pony up the money, but I'm selling for a deceased person, and his wife cannot handle the process.  Sorry for interrupting the thread. Any info would be appreciated and if you can redirect me to somewhere, that's cool too!
So, can you thread your bolts into them?
B
Yes, but the front ones are toо feeble and not deep enough to hold the tilted speaker - without proper support by the washers, of course. I even broke part of the thread.

The back hole will hold the spike, though, as the cone is pressed directly against the speaker bottom, so no sideways pressure on the wood.
The thread is there, it’s just not visible on the pics.
So, can you thread your bolts into them?
B
Bob,
The thread is there, it’s just not visible on the pics. The back spike hole has no metal inserts anyway.
@ja_zz 
Those pics don't show any thread.
I would hesitate to thread your spikes into wood.
+1 Tomic
B
Tom,
Ok, I guess you are right.  Will check the manual tomorrow.  For free. 
Meanwhile Merry Christmas to you all! ;-)
the tilt can be found from the manual !!!!!

which you can down load from the Vandersteen website

for free

you need to follow isoquant lines depending on two important variables: distance from acoustic center of speaker and height of your ears in the listening position

those will tell you how many washers to put under each cone


As far as length of bolt is concerned, it depends on how un-level your floors are. In my 100 year old house, things are definitely out of plumb. Thankfully, I didn't need to alter the spikes, so I doubt you will.
If I recall, the spikes have about 1.5-1.75 inches of thread exposed before the spike.
B
Bob,
What I want to know is how much tilt does it usually require to correctly position the speakers.
Hence the question.
And yes, there is thread both in the front holes (cones) and in the back (Spike).

Can you guys please measure the gaps between the speaker bottom in front and back of the speakers and the floor? Thanks!
You don't need this.
If/when you put in the threaded inserts, you will thread your spike stud into it. Then, depending upon your floor, you will adjust each spike to give you the proper tilt(as per the Vandy manual), then tighten the jam nut to secure.

However, rest of the thread is fine.
There is no thread in there. Hence the need for threaded inserts.
B
Bob,
I broke it a bit myself. I thought there were metal inserts and screwed the cones in without looking. My bad.
However, rest of the thread is fine. 
And I can make the inserts if they are flat and fit into those depressions on the bottom.
I will also request Richard for those spares.
Can you guys please measure the gaps between the speaker bottom in front and back of the speakers and the floor? Thanks!

@ja_zz 
I just got your pics and I think I am correct. There should be a threaded insert inside the cabinet.
It looks like the numbnuts previous owner over-tightened the spikes and when he removed them, he took out the inserts as well. No wonder why he 'lost' them.
As I said, you need T nuts, better yet, call Johnny Rutan (send him the pics you sent me) or Mr. V. directly and I bet they will have the proper parts  to fix it.
Can you do it yourself, sure.
BUT, why risk more problems? And, it looks like he broke off some of the bottom of the speaker where they attach.
B