I remember the Shahinian's from long ago. It is a nice speaker.
The Vandersteen is a whole different animal. In my opinion, Vandersteen's will smoke them.
I own the Treo's with a pair of 2w subs and use an Atma-Sphere MA-1 and MP-3 with an Ayre Codex and couldn't be happier.
Your Musical Fidelity amp should have enough power, but I am unfamiliar with their sound. All I can say is when I switched out from a McCormack DNA-1 and preamp to the Atma's, everything came alive. ( I had Steve McCormack upgrade the DNA-1 to monoblocks, so I will have a shoot out soon, and, yes, he knows what he's up against.)
Bob |
Yes, Quatro's would be the way to go, in my opinion.
The upgrades between the 3a sigs and Treo/Quatro line is significant.
If you are looking at the ones for sale here on Agon, I am looking at them, too.
I really like the Shahinian's, but their design is mostly based on the Bose 'direct/reflection' theory. You get lots of nice diffuse sound, very relaxing, but lacking in structure and definition. A properly set up Vandy will give you a more precise soundstage. IMHO.
B |
I would contact Johnny Rutan and get his opinion (audioconnection).
Also, contact the sellers directly. You can get a better idea of what is being offered.
Bob |
I Didn't know about your being in Russia. That makes things a bit more complicated. I never would have guessed it, as your English is impeccable.
You can certainly PM Johnny R and get great advice for free. He is one of the premier Vandersteen dealers in the US, and for good reason.
I would agree, getting a pair of Quatro's would be the best way to go, for the long run. You have a fairly large room. The Quatro's would be a good fit.
And, Johnny can help you with assessing your current amp and preamp, which, should you get the Quatro's, would probably be worthy of another upgrade in the future.
Bob |
Your integrated amp has pre out's (according to a quick Google), so you are good to go. You can buy fixed crossovers for approx. $200 in RCA.
You can also buy them directly from Vandersteen. |
@audioconnection Yes, I forgot that you need an amp in connection. @ja_zz You did refer to NAD as:
I don't believe in NAD being high-end equipment
Bob |
+1 for mr_m.
OP, I thought you said you were in Russia? Where does the Italian keyboard come in?
B |
|
@ja_zz
I think some of your disappointment might be with the Shahinian's.
Another might be the preamp section of the integrated amp.
Though without being there, it is hard to give a good reason.
Unless, you want to fly me to Russia...;)
Bob |
@ja_zz
Vandersteen has made his own amps for the 7's.
@tomic601
You are one lucky guy! |
Nuts!
Sorry to hear about your troubles.
How were they shipped? In their boxes?
I would call either Johnny R(or PM him), or Mr. V.- he calls back the next day. I believe the Quatro is designed so that you can remove and replace the affected driver with not too much problem- should it come to that.
Bob |
Your speakers should have come with spikes. You can probably make your own. Copied from the Vandy 2ce manual: If you set the speakers on a wood floor, place a coin under each stand spike or use 3/8-16 thread carriage bolts in place of the spikes to prevent damage to the floor. Carriage bolts have rounded heads that will not put holes in the floor.
I believe all Vandies use the same thread size, but I might be wrong. In any case, try one and gently start threading. If it isn’t the correct size, it won’t thread easily. I would suggest something in the 2-2.5 inch length. Also, get some nuts so you can lock them in place. Are there Vandy dealers in Russia/Europe? It might make the process less difficult. A dealer might be able to make repairs locally and save you the hassle. B |
@hifiman5
Yes, you are correct. I was hoping the OP could swap out drivers and save the shipping costs.
I was actually thinking about the Vandy subs.
B |
@ja_zz
Actually, I think it is the other way around. Johnny R said you should be able to swap out drivers. The xover might be more problematical. Though I think Mr. V. builds these speakers so that they don't have to be shipped back whole when something breaks.
Bob |
Re amps:
Atma-Sphere MA-1's with MP-3- Total knock out of the park
I will be setting up my Ayre MXR (non Twenties) and a recently upgraded pair of McCormack DNA-1's that Steve was challenged to give the Atma's a run for the money.
Sound Anchors just delivered my amp stands, so once things are put together it is off to the races....
@ja_zz
When you get your Quatro's repaired, I think you might be considering other speakers for back up.
Bob |
@ja_zz
I haven’t listened to any open baffle speakers, yet. Seems like they should be on my ’to do’ list, along with MBL.
I am currently into non-crossover designs, namely Zu. They are quite impressive for the money. Not up to Vandersteen, but pretty close.
Also, Stringreen’s comment is a good one. Maybe when you get to sending out the driver, see if there is anything amiss in the wiring. Perhaps something got bumped out of place when they were shipped.
@tomic601 , and Nycjlee, I have great expectations for the Ayre( and the McCormack). I will post when I get things up and running.
The Sound Anchor stands arrived and I have to undo some old shelving, patch and repaint the areas before I set them up, so it will be a little while...
It’s never easy, is it?
Bob |
@ja_zz
I don't know what 'off center' means, in this case, but
Do you think it was damaged in the shipping?
It was generous for the seller to accept the speakers back.
He sounds like a 'Stand Up' guy.
For me, I would send it to Mr. V. as his drivers are made to his specifications and I would doubt anyone else knows what he knows. (I also wonder if he needs the driver from the other speaker in order to get them balanced)?-Ask Johnny.
A second reason to send it back to California is that Vandersteen constantly upgrades their speakers and I am sure they would need to see your driver in its' pristine state in order to affect the proper repair. If you have it repaired locally, it may get altered so that should you still need to send it back, they might have a problem putting it back to original spec. as they don't keep records of their upgrades.(Though I wonder why they don't). Of course, I am being a bit paranoid, but I want to save you from anymore trouble.
A third reason is that should you want to sell them, you would have all the documentation showing they were put back to original by the manufacturer.
Lastly:
When In Doubt, Contact Johnny R!
Bob |
Hmm, I supposed it depends upon what you were listening to beforehand.
Vandie's aren't bright (as in, lots of treble or beaming uppers).
Also being phase and time aligned, they give a more natural (in my opinion) sound. The closest I can find to them are planars and electrostatic speakers.
Again, to my ears.
Bob |
That is great to hear-pun intended.
Are you going to switch out the preamp?
B |
What preamp are you considering, should you replace the CJ?
I have to say that since you changed tubes, you probably should give it a good 4-500 hours to settle in.
Bob |
Super!
Sometimes the simplest things make the most difference.
You might want to consider an Ayre Codex. It can function as a DAC or preamp, too.
B |
I, too, am a bit confused by Johnny's post. @ja_zz Yes, you need the spikes/cones installed on the speakers. Didn't yours come with a set? They disconnect the speaker from the floor and help with clarity/imaging. Tilt back, too, is necessary for proper imaging, soundstage, getting the tweeters at the right height. If you don't have a set, contact Johnny. You could also get some threaded gliders from Herbie's. http://herbiesaudiolab.net/spkrfeet.htm#studB |
@ja_zz
Why don't you just buy a Radio Shack SPL Meter off Ebay and be done with it? If you were closer, you could borrow mine. (Or, you could fly me to Russia. I need a vacation...).
Using the cheapo Radio Shack meter is easier and if you run into problems, we can help you. (Well, probably Johnny).
B
|
I looked those SPL meters up, and I can get a cheapo version here.
Great, now we're getting somewhere. You can even substitute some bolts for the cones, until they arrive. Just get the proper thread(
I think it is 3/8-16). Put the bolt head downward and add a lock nut. The spikes are about an inch to 1.25 inches tall (at least on my Treo's), so you would probably want a 1.75 inch bolt(depending on how level your floors are). Follow the manual's set up directions for angling and you're good to go. Then on to equalizing them. B |
|
Huh?
What, the speakers have no internal threads?
Maybe you can start a Virtual System page.
We'll sort this out...
Bob |
@tomic601
I think you have something there and taking a pic of the threads is the best way to go.
Post it on the Virtual Systems page.
This is really odd.
Bob |
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@ja_zz
I just got your pics and I think I am correct. There should be a threaded insert inside the cabinet.
It looks like the numbnuts previous owner over-tightened the spikes and when he removed them, he took out the inserts as well. No wonder why he 'lost' them.
As I said, you need T nuts, better yet, call Johnny Rutan (send him the pics you sent me) or Mr. V. directly and I bet they will have the proper parts to fix it.
Can you do it yourself, sure.
BUT, why risk more problems? And, it looks like he broke off some of the bottom of the speaker where they attach.
B |
As far as length of bolt is concerned, it depends on how un-level your floors are. In my 100 year old house, things are definitely out of plumb. Thankfully, I didn't need to alter the spikes, so I doubt you will.
If I recall, the spikes have about 1.5-1.75 inches of thread exposed before the spike.
B |
Can you guys please measure the gaps between the speaker bottom in front and back of the speakers and the floor? Thanks!
You don't need this. If/when you put in the threaded inserts, you will thread your spike stud into it. Then, depending upon your floor, you will adjust each spike to give you the proper tilt(as per the Vandy manual), then tighten the jam nut to secure.
However, rest of the thread is fine.
There is no thread in there. Hence the need for threaded inserts. B |
@ja_zz
Those pics don't show any thread.
I would hesitate to thread your spikes into wood.
+1 Tomic
B |
The thread is there, it’s just not visible on the pics.
So, can you thread your bolts into them? B |
I went with a pair of Atma-Sphere MA-1's and MP-3 for my Treo's and couldn't be happier. In fact, it is my reference system. I never had tubes before, and this combo is certainly ̶o̶n̶e̶ ̶o̶f̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶f̶i̶n̶e̶s̶t̶ , no the best I have ever heard.
And, I also have a pair of upgraded DNA-1 monoblocks from SMc Audio, and a pair of Ayre MXR (non twenty), so I could play around.-Those tubes get too hot for the summer.
Bob |
I know that there were a pair of Ayre Monoblocks for sale in France last year with 220 volt, so they are out there.
B |
@ja_zz
For me, Hifi Shark is the best place to keep up with used offerings.
That's where I saw the MX-R's
B |
Tomic, you are one lucky guy.-Retired and owning the M-7 amps.
Sheesh...
Bob
;) |
That's great to hear!
I knew the Vandies would wow you.
The Atlas should be a good match, too.
B |
