If you're concerned with signal loss with a connection, which you should be, then why would you want to add another connection? Of course there's gonna be all kinds of problems with anything that screws on. That's the kind of low end connection electricians use when all they care about is getting current from A to B without burning the house down. Its called a wire nut. Would you ask about using a wire nut? Of course not. Yet how is this any different?
So you have bare wire. You can spend a small fortune on a quality spade connector and solder it on there with rosin and quality silver solder like a real audiophile, or you can tin the same wire without the spade and connect it directly which will be even better. Or you if you don't want to solder then you can just twist the wires and tighten down real good.
What you do not do is screw some dreck on just because you think its supposed to look a certain way. Its not about the look. Its about the sound.
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I'm asking because they come terminated like that and are not available with spades or bananas. It's a great deal on a good cable but not if using high quality screw on spades would degrade the sound. |
Impossible. There is no such thing as high quality screw on spades. There is no such thing as a great deal on a cable with screw on spades. What there is, is something one tiny little step up from lamp cord. Have you priced lamp cord? You should. Its a great deal. Compared to screw on spades.
Again, last time, its all about the sound. Not how it looks. How it sounds.
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Any interconnect cable needs a ’joint’ at each end. Speaker wires, ground spade: These spades or banana male are loved by many (me). http://www.wbtusa.com/pages/bananas_spades.html Cut off anything, strip, nice fresh wire, attached. Get pairs of different colors, to tell L from R. I always wrap the ends of right speaker wires with red tape, my memory sucks. |
Nope. Not going for it. "Last time". Remember?
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Love WBT. Shame they are so damn expensive though.
Tried Furutech locking bananas, what a joke.
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Canare 4S11 Star quad is a good choice. I replaced my Purist Aqueous Luminist with Canare and I'm hearing a more neutral, tonally correct presentation of music.
I have locking bananas, dont know if they're screw-on or soldered.
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Miller, I don't know if you are trying to be a jerk but that's how you're coming off. Who said anything about looks? I don't care how it looks. I had never seen that termination before and was wondering if a direct tight quality connection to spades was a good or bad idea. I was suspicious so I asked. Lighten up. |
OP:
I’ve used that method several times. The screw/sleeve/wire combination has been rock solid and never given me a concern, with either Furutech or WBT.
The Furutech issues I had were all at the speaker side.
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Thanks Erik. My speaker terminals don't accept bananas so I was trying to find a solution that was a solid connection. These cables are not available w spades. |
erik_squiresThe screw/sleeve/wire combination has
been rock solid and never given me a concern, with either Furutech or
WBT. WBT makes excellent connectors and I wouldn't hesitate to use them.
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Then highly recommend the WBT spring loaded bananas. Give a great grip even when the speaker terminal is too hard.
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I would not hesitate a moment to use a ferrule/screw tight termination. I feel this is a superior method to a soldered spade given the same metal make up of the spade. I hope mr. millercarbon has removed the brass connectors on his speakers, amps. And God forbid the brass rca plugs, speaker tabs, etc. There's no end to the ways an audiophile can lose sleep!
Seriously, for DIY this is a cleaner more conductive method than a blob of poorly applied solder on a large gauge conductor. |
Millercarbon hath spoken. |
The locking bananas are ultrasonically welded on the 4S11 at BJC. Works for me. |
One can learn how to solder cables to connectors properly.
It does take investment in the tools to do so. These likely will cost less than what's being soldered together, but that's just a guess....about the parts, that is...
A bit of practice, et voila! A permanent joint
If it's temporary, 'screw around'.
If it's soldered, it's Done. Back to fun....
...but this is fine for 'normal' cables and connectors; esoteric items are best sent back to their home planet, where the 'natives' know-how...
...and charge handsomely for it.... |
Ask yourself how much solder your electrician used in the 250 A panel at your service entrance.
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These spades or banana male are loved by many (me). http://www.wbtusa.com/pages/bananas_spades.htmlCut off anything, strip, nice fresh wire, attached.
I like these too, great ends, and not a slot screw, a hex, can really get it tight, if you tin your ends, I do, they never come loose after a good cookin' and a second retighten. Second they are insulated in case of some of the older, very closely spaced speaker/ amp terminals. Can always die off the gold plating and get to the bare copper, when you torque um up, too, your call. Regards |
I just bought Blue Gene's cable Locking Banana plugs, set screw style and for the price I'm very impressed with the quality
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My speaker terminals don't accept bananas so I was trying to find a solution that was a solid connection. These cables are not available w spades.
Hello, so what type of connection do you want, spades? Like on a bare speaker, male spades? So you want female Spades. Or am I missing something? Vice Versa?
Respectfully |
I am under the impression a number of companies will make your 4s11 cables terminated how you want, Blue Jeans and Redco to name a couple. |
Yes spades. Actually read the fine print and I can order w spades. Checking on cost. |
Yes spades. Actually read the fine print and I can order w spades. Checking on cost.
So your hooking directly to a speaker, just wondering, active or external XO?
I can't help myself, wondering about the application.
Female spades? I only ask because most spade connectors make good contact ONCE.. When unplugged, if it's critical, I cut, toss and add a new one OR tighten the female roll on either side and give it a brass brushing. Male good brushing, rough it up..
Regards
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Just normal u shaped spade connectors. |
uncledemp330 posts
02-25-2020 5:56pm
Millercarbon hath spoken. So true! We are lucky to have someone who knows everything in this forum! Conversation over. |
Just normal u shaped spade connectors.
See this is where your loosing me. A spade is flat no U with a round wire receiver, normally insulated, normally CRIMPED..
A "U" sounds like a Y connector to me. A Y the tail on the Y is the wire receiver and can be soldered, crimped and soldered or securement screws. I've just never seen a spade used for a speaker terminal. Only as a speaker driver connection.
.125 -.250 wide, about .60" thick for 10 amp (blue) .80" for 15 amp (Yellow)..
A spade has a male and a female. A Y is locked down via a locking nut
and normally the most commonly used feature on a FIVE (5) way binding post..(except banana).It's also a very GOOD way to mechanically connect and keep it tight.. TORQUE IT..A Y is an Eye term with the top cut out. Hee hee. Yup Yup
I'm kinda thick sometime that way.. But ay, I haven't see a lot of things. LOL. Just an ol wore out mechanic..
So is it still a spade? or a Y, just wondering? Y is very common..
Regards |
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You know I just looked. The Europeans are calling a Y (US electrical term) connector a spade, this may be what I'm missing. I might be incorrect, I see the term interchange between the two different connections..I don't know..Why. Open Eye or Y is the common US nomenclature.
Regards |
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In any case I've seen the type your speaking of, screw on 2mm pins, or spades (1/4" Ys), Heck Screw them on and silver solder the outside, and the joint real nice and thick..That would be as good or better than a lot..of what's out there, unless you got a little crucible and couple pre 62 quarters to melt down, you know like the lone ranger making silver bullets. Give the ends two dips, that will REALLY work nice. .50 cent fix
lol
Ok I'm out of here. Time to listen a bit
Regards
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