Replacing fuse


Would replacing an 6.3A SLO BLO fuse with an 8 SLO BLO fuse be ok? Thanks for any information.
john421
Addendum: Audio Horizons offers a limited 15 day in home trial with money back guarantee.
For the record AMR fuses come with a 30 day guarantee and IIRC the earlier Audio Magic fuses also come with a guarantee, at least through one big dealer. Not that it matters much as I was informed during a conference call with the primary US fuse dealer and the major fuse players that the bulk of fuses sold these days are SR or HiFi Tuning.
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Well back to the subject at hand children,the fuse has worked flawlessly.Thanks for the support,I guess?
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Are you channeling Carl Sagan? Are you now the spokesman for the Silent Majority? Are they satisfied like cows in the field? 🐄

Did you mean veracity? Maybe velocity. How about varsity?
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Huh, when I asked VH audio about returning a fuse I didn't like, he stated the only manufacturers that allows him to do that was Synergistic, and only with the BLACK and BLUE fuses.
That’s complete hogwash. Almost all fuses come with 30 or sometimes 60 day money back guarantee. One exception is the very latest Audio Magic Ultra Beeswax or whatever it’s called. As for NASA fuses you’re all wet on that one, too. The NASA advanced fuses were discussed a few months back by your humble scribe, who happened to be in satellite operations for NASA for a bunch of years, including pre-launch activities, launch and on orbit operations. Better luck next time. Besides, could 70,000 satisfied aftermarket fuse customers be wrong? 
Another comment.  I do not know anyone who will accept a return of a used fuse, except for two:  Synergistic BLACK and Synergistic BLUE.  Anything else you buy is a non-returnable item.

@falconquest - in response to bumped up fuses.  I did say "generally speaking" and also said "there is a point where it doesn't make much difference".  I have heard definitely improvements on bumping up a 1A fuse to a 2A fuse in a preamp.  Heck, I have even heard improvements in going from 1A to 1.6A.  The sound with the larger 2A just hits with more authority, more power and better resolution.  However, that's the most I will go.  I have seen some preamps that use a higher amp fuse (such as a 2.5A in a Krell Phantom), so a 2A is not out of the ordinary.  Usually, these larger amp fuses make more of a difference in preamps that use Class A circuits because they are such current hogs.  Things that use normal op amps or a small amount of op amps may not benefit as much with the larger fuses.

The difference between 6.3A and 8A is going to be a lot less - probably too small to actually hear a difference.  But there could be a -very- minor improvement.

As far as these NASA comments, either they are a troll or coming from an inexperienced point of view.  NASA will have completely different requirements for their fuses - such as extreme reliability, exact breaking/melting point, ability to support high speed digital circuits, etc.  They will not have the same requirements as far as allowing the voltage into an analog equipment to sound pleasant or with a specific character.

As long as we're injecting (no pun intended) humour into this thread then I have always felt that slo-blo is the way to go. Yep, nice and slo.....
Stubborn cuss, ain’t he? God gave you two ears and one mouth for a reason. I don’t subscribe to any fuse or cable manufacturer that doesn’t control directionality. I don’t even care if they’re UL listed or not. Whaddya think about them apples? 🍎 You are free to do whatever you want. Live and let die, I always say.
Geoff,

No documentation like this for an example 

http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/electronics/datasheets/fuses/littelfuse_fuse_325_326_datasheet.pdf...


I purposefully picked the ceramic body ones - this way -  should you decide to buy some,  you can color them with your Crayons to any color you'd like 

Good listening

Peter
Not meaning to add confusion to the issue but the current is alternating in most circuits where fuses are used (i.e., AC circuits), thus the net velocity of current is actually zero for almost any delta time.
I guess one way to look at this is quite simple. Replacing the 6.5A fuse with an 8A is perfectly fine..........until it isn’t, but then it’s too late. Beyond that I have to take exception to a comment made by @auxinput. In his post he made the following comment...
"Generally speaking, a higher amp fuse is a thicker wire with less resistance. It will allow more current and faster current through to the device and the result can be improved dynamics and punch/power in the sound."
While his point is theoretically valid consider this....
The speed of electric (electromagnetic) field propagation in copper wire is slower than in vacuum by a factor referred to as the velocity factor. The speed of electromagnetic waves propagate in vacuum is 299,792,458 meters per second. The velocity factor for a 12-gauge copper wire copper wire is about 0.951 (according to this source). Therefore, the speed of electricity in a 12-gauge copper wire is 299,792,458 meters per second x 0.951 or 285,102,627 meters per second. This is about 280,000,000 meters per second which is not very much different from the speed of electromagnetic waves (light) in vacuum.

My point, respectfully to @auxinput is that if you can hear a difference in the thickness of the material in an 8A fuse vs. a 6.5A fuse then dude, I want your ears! This just seems like a logical fallacy to me.

pbnaudio
Geoff,

Any fuse supplied to NASA or any other Aviation Enterprise must be tested and supplied with documentation detailing repeated tests detailing that it works as intended. Hardly the case of all the BS that souround “Audiophile” fuses. The kind of testing and documentation that is provided by reputable companies like Bussman and Littlefuse.

>>>Now you’re being ridiculous. Audiophile fuses are not (rpt not) intended for aviation or space applications. Nor are the stock Bussman or Littelfuse used for either aviation or space applications. Follow? Besides you seem to be blissfully unaware of the data sheets supplied by HiFi Tuning detailing the test results of HiFi Tuning fuses and other brands of fuses, including stock fuses, not to mention cryod fuses vs uncryod fuses and fuse directionality.

Other Aviation Enterprises? Did you make that up yourself? Do you mean like hang gliding? Drones?
Jitter, are you referring to the Shuttle that exploded on take-off or the one the disintegrated during recently? 
pop quiz Geoff, how much documentation has any of the audiophile fuse makers provided?

Quick answer, there's "SR Black Fuses encompass our latest understanding of passive Quantum Inductive Coupling and are our most powerful fuses to date. In addition to a proprietary conditioning process followed by a 1,000,000 volt signal we call Quantum Tunneling that alters conductive pathways within the burn wire, we add a Quantum Inductive Surface that includes Graphene to stabilize the electrical wave feeding your system for a dramatic improvement in system performance over standard and audio-grade fuses."

For sure, replace my space shuttle's fuses with these.
Geoff,

Any fuse supplied to NASA or any other Aviation Enterprise must be tested and supplied with documentation detailing repeated tests detailing that it works as intended. Hardly the case of all the BS that souround “Audiophile” fuses. The kind of testing and documentation that is provided by reputable companies like Bussman and Littlefuse 

Good listening

Peter
Uh, the special advanced fuses NASA uses are not the same ones as the compsnies’ Stock fuses, silly. They are more like the aftermarket fuses audiophiles prefer. Nice try.
Audiophile fuses are just a euphemism for sucker fuses. There is no difference between fuses of the same rating and type. Littlefuse or Buss are two reputable brands that are good enough for life support systems and NASA, so they are damn well good enough for anyone else. 

@john421 Perhaps it's too late, but another place in Canada you may check next time is Audiyo. Pretty sure they are in the GTA, but all my purchases from them have been online, so can't be sure. Steven at Audio Sensibility has an awful lot of electronics stock in his home, Although as a cable manufacturer, I don't know if he is in the market to sell any of the non-cable parts he has. Can't hurt to ask though.


Good luck

Got the fuse today and so far so good,got my fingers crossed!I did ask Parts Connexion as well,said it would be fine.
I did it with my snell  speakers all the time
Just did not blow as soon
 Try it.  But use a nice hifi
Fuse.  Not some $1 job
Said some, obviously I was excluding myself.Was your first date on Lord of the Rings?
I don’t know but I have a feeling you’re going to tell me. 😛

john421 OP
Thanks for all the input.As for the 30 day guarantee by the time you have fuses burned in enough to clearly hear a difference good or bad the grace period would probably be voided and be stuck with a fuse that wasn't a good match for the amp.

>>>>Geez, you’ve got an excuse for everything. I declare thee a troll! 
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Thanks for all the input.As for the 30 day guarantee by the time you have fuses burned in enough to clearly hear a difference good or bad the grace period would probably be voided and be stuck with a fuse that wasn't a good match for the amp.
When I got my my modded Hafler DH-220, they had cryo-treated, ceramic audiophile fuses.  I melted them pushing Maggie MMGs at moderate volume playing mostly jazz music.  Go figure.
I replaced them with standard glass fuses because it's what I had on hand, and they worked fine (same amp rating). 
Then I read about standard ceramic fuses offering a slight increase in SQ, so I swapped out for them. 
I DID notice a slight improvement in SQ, and stopped there.  Ceramics are fine with me.
ALL of my research - which was considerable - had electricians and electrical engineers suggesting that using fuses with SMALL increases in suggested amp ratings posed little problem, and wasn't worth dithering over.
Would you want to replace a 6.3A with a 15A?  Or even a 10A?Probably not.But an 8A shouldn't present a problem if your original fuse was 6.3.I would hazard an educated guess that that little 8A fuse will blow long before you run the risk of ...................burning down the house. 
I agree with almarg and auxinput.

Most fuses offer 30 day guarantee. So, what are you waiting for? Besides I already told you how to improve whatever run of the mill fuse you already have. 
Nothing wrong with the stock fuse, just wanted to hear if the was any improvement in sound quality with an audiophile fuse.
You have to wonder though, your paying $100 for a "special magic" fuse but yet they can't even get the current rating that it blows at right??!  Something that the 3$ bussman has had nailed for 30 years???!!  But yet they are supposed to sound waaaaaaaaay better.....
🙄Right
As an engineering stand point about a 20% extra toleranceis built into anyGood quality audio product for longevity and allowances forpower variances 
surges,and or power sags.my uncle has been a master design ,technician for 40 
years , with these high fi fuses IHave had popped 2 fuseswitha red wine amp 
on startup some amps ramp up fast .vinnie said just go up one size higher .
nota problem since . This was several years ago  just as a example .
youalso have a circuit breaker in one on power conditioning and in your home 
circuit breaker box .comments on burning your home down .
is totally unlikely with breakers in several locations asa fail safe which most Audiophiles have . If you have a dedicated powrrlibeto your components 
,or even if you don’t a 15 or 20 amp breaker is in yourcircuit breaker panel.
and as mentioned before. IFI Audio has plugintothe wall and power strip forprotection  as well as purifying for $100each, digital a bit more and workwell.
No problem in fact many high end fuses are very accurate  and have actually poppedon startup for the cheap steel fuses can vary over 15% we have tested these . Curren Lumin in my Poweredsub, And big Gato Audio 400S I went upfrom a 8ampto 10. It is not an issue unless something in the circuit went bad orahugepower surge which youshould have line protection at your breaker box 
in in the System Brick wall Audio makes very good ones forthe money and beat ones 5 x their $300 price tab limodifyed mine 
with topparts. Try IFI Audio they thane excellent AC ,and digital purifying youjust pluginto a socket or digital line.for  $100 each 2-3 
of them is a clear audioupgrade .theSynergistic bluefuses ifound 
Excellent also. Just a few tips ,pls try a Stabilant -22 great contact 
enhancer,adteryou clean terminals with good 90% or better Isopropyl alcohol, and lasts on contacts if notremoverover 12 years NASA , and many high tech military companies use this .
not to be confused withcrap that was buying this and diluting        it 8-1 buy direct for $60 .much better then Caig , or messy pastes.
It could cause damage to the component.  Because the 8 slo blow has a higher threshold before blowing.  Why did the 6.3A blow?   Right there it tells you not to invite damaging your equipment.
Quick interrupt! Current audiophile fuses available from The Cable Company. It appears the price of spinach is going up. That’s a lot of Big Macs. 🍔

https://www.thecableco.com/accessories/fuses.html

Sounds very nice. A fuse would be nice too. Hint, hint.

Man does not live by bread alone. - Old audiophile axiom
They treated me to a weekend at Busch Gardens and the Beach for my birthday this past July.Much better than a fuse don't you think geoffkait?
In the big scheme of things, 1.7A difference is not a whole lot when you are looking at a 6.3A reference point. And it really varies depending on manufacturer.
The reference point , imo, should be the power consumption of the piece of equipment. I doubt the 6.3A is the FLA of the OP’s piece equipment. The 6.3A is more than likely a built in fudge factor the designer/manufacturer decided on to eliminate any chance of nuisance fuse blowing.
The fudge factor might be tight, maybe 110% of the FLA of a piece of equipment. It could be 125%, 150%, 175% or 200%. Maybe even 250%... It depends on the type/design of the equipment and the quality of the parts used.

Just one example. I have an ARC VT50 tube power amp. On the rear panel of the amp it is listed 330 watts power consumption. The rear mounted AC Line fuse is a dual element SLO-BLO 4 amp 250V fuse.
330 watts / 120Vac = 2.75A. The 4 amp fuse is just slightly less 150% of 2.75A.
(2.75 X 150% = 4.125)

Jim