Would replacing an 6.3A SLO BLO fuse with an 8 SLO BLO fuse be ok?
If the component was designed to be used with a 6.3A slo-blo, then that is the correct fuse to use for replacement. Usually, the correct fuse size is noted on the back of the chassis. You do not want to substitute a fuse that will only blow at a higher value than specified.
Yes the correct size is written inside of the amp.Searched online for audiophile fuses with the same value but was not able to find one.8A SLO BLO was the nearest available.
Bought the fuses from Parts Connection located in Canada on sale, which makes the sizes and values limited.Know there are correct size fuses but didn't want to spend $50 or more for one fuse.Its a Hi Fi tuning fuse which many have for sale but none have the size and values needed.
No. The design engineer knows the expected fault current and from there determines how much time to melt the fuse, and that corresponds to 6.3 amps for your device.
Don't buy those nonsense high end rip off uses. Just go to your local electronic store and buy quality fuses for a couple of bucks. I went down the hi-fi tuning Road and blew some of those that shouldn't have blown.
While many here have and would disagree with me, aside from the potential warranty issue I wouldn’t worry too much about substituting an audiophile-oriented fuse having a current rating 27% higher than the original. For two reasons:
1) There have been numerous reports here in recent years of various audiophile-oriented fuses blowing when they shouldn’t have. From at least 8 different members that I can recall in the case of SR fuse threads alone. Which suggests to me that the unspecified melting points of many of these fuses may be significantly lower than their current ratings would suggest. (Melting point is commonly specified by major manufacturers such as Littelfuse and Cooper Bussmann in terms of amperes-squared x seconds, but I don’t recall ever seeing such a spec being provided by a manufacturer of audiophile-oriented fuses).
I don’t recall previously seeing reports about false blows in the specific case of HiFi Tuning fuses, but as a member for whom I have great respect I certainly have zero doubt as to the veracity of Analogluvr’s statement.
2) Another reason for my relative lack of concern about the 27% rating increase is that it’s not an exact science. I would expect that the designer analyzes and/or measures the current draw of the component under worst case operating conditions, and also the magnitude and duration of the "inrush" current surge that occurs at turn-on, and chooses the current rating and melting point of the fuse by applying what seems to him or her to be a comfortable margin relative to those numbers. Another designer might very conceivably choose a somewhat different margin.
IMO. As I said, many others here have and would make reasonable arguments to the contrary.
I guess my concern is that the OP is clearly a neophyte to fuses and uncomfortable with the whole process, so the safest advice is to stick with the rated fuse
My own experience with SR fuses is that they do tend to blow on start up so I as a rule go "one size up" which would be the 8A for 6.3A, but I do this eyes open and well aware of the risks I am taking.
I think to recommend this for someone who is making a decision based on stock on hand and saving a few $ is the wrong advice. Most likely you'll not have any issues agreed but why risk it?
There are of course those who swear by bypassing the fuses completely ...
I'm some what knowledgeable about fuses but no I'm not an electrician or pretend to be an expert on audio equipment.Guess I'm curious about the fuse tweak and wanted to experiment without wasting money doing so.Some say they work, others say no.Some say a step lower or higher in value is ok so I was looking at other options and opinions.
I heartedly agree with almarg's position. In the big scheme of things, 1.7A difference is not a whole lot when you are looking at a 6.3A reference point. And it really varies depending on manufacturer. A 6.3A fuse is relatively equal to 756 watts of energy. Bumping this up to 960 watts with an 8A fuse is likely not going to make much difference of where the fuse breaks/melts, especially since this is probably going into an amplifier which will use a lot of current anyways. I would say that using a 10A or more fuse may start to border on the "too much" scale. The bigger amps that use 10A or 15A will have a lot more power supply and circuits to spread the energy around before it hits the "too much" threshold.
I have seen some manufacturers that are right on the edge of what the amp will use (watts plus overhead/waste) and others that are 2-4 amps above what the electronic device is scoped for.
Generally speaking, a higher amp fuse is a thicker wire with less resistance. It will allow more current and faster current through to the device and the result can be improved dynamics and punch/power in the sound. There is a point where it doesn't make much difference.
john421 likely purchased one of the clearance fuses from Parts Connexion. These are probably either Hi-Fi Tuning Gold or Hi-Fi Tuning Silverstar, selling for around $15 or so.
For those who are too cheap to invest in aftermarket fuses there is some progress to be made potentially simply by reversing existing stock fuses one at a time and assessing for each fuse which direction sounds best. If you have say, four fuses what are the odds that half of them are in the wrong direction? What are the odds they’re all in the wrong direction? Or that they’re all in the correct direction? Do the math. For extra texture use the graphene contact enhancer on all fuses. Oh, darn, that’s not free! Never mind.
Nah,just an average guy that rather have money to take my children out to dinner for a $100 than spending a $100 on one audiophile grade fuse.What would be your choice?
In the big scheme of things, 1.7A difference is not a whole lot when you are looking at a 6.3A reference point. And it really varies depending on manufacturer.
The reference point , imo, should be the power consumption of the piece of equipment. I doubt the 6.3A is the FLA of the OP’s piece equipment. The 6.3A is more than likely a built in fudge factor the designer/manufacturer decided on to eliminate any chance of nuisance fuse blowing. The fudge factor might be tight, maybe 110% of the FLA of a piece of equipment. It could be 125%, 150%, 175% or 200%. Maybe even 250%... It depends on the type/design of the equipment and the quality of the parts used.
Just one example. I have an ARC VT50 tube power amp. On the rear panel of the amp it is listed 330 watts power consumption. The rear mounted AC Line fuse is a dual element SLO-BLO 4 amp 250V fuse. 330 watts / 120Vac = 2.75A. The 4 amp fuse is just slightly less 150% of 2.75A. (2.75 X 150% = 4.125)
It could cause damage to the component. Because the 8 slo blow has a higher threshold before blowing. Why did the 6.3A blow? Right there it tells you not to invite damaging your equipment.
No problem in fact many high end fuses are very accurate and have actually poppedon startup for the cheap steel fuses can vary over 15% we have tested these . Curren Lumin in my Poweredsub, And big Gato Audio 400S I went upfrom a 8ampto 10. It is not an issue unless something in the circuit went bad orahugepower surge which youshould have line protection at your breaker box in in the System Brick wall Audio makes very good ones forthe money and beat ones 5 x their $300 price tab limodifyed mine with topparts. Try IFI Audio they thane excellent AC ,and digital purifying youjust pluginto a socket or digital line.for $100 each 2-3 of them is a clear audioupgrade .theSynergistic bluefuses ifound Excellent also. Just a few tips ,pls try a Stabilant -22 great contact enhancer,adteryou clean terminals with good 90% or better Isopropyl alcohol, and lasts on contacts if notremoverover 12 years NASA , and many high tech military companies use this . not to be confused withcrap that was buying this and diluting it 8-1 buy direct for $60 .much better then Caig , or messy pastes.
As an engineering stand point about a 20% extra toleranceis built into anyGood quality audio product for longevity and allowances forpower variances surges,and or power sags.my uncle has been a master design ,technician for 40 years , with these high fi fuses IHave had popped 2 fuseswitha red wine amp on startup some amps ramp up fast .vinnie said just go up one size higher . nota problem since . This was several years ago just as a example . youalso have a circuit breaker in one on power conditioning and in your home circuit breaker box .comments on burning your home down . is totally unlikely with breakers in several locations asa fail safe which most Audiophiles have . If you have a dedicated powrrlibeto your components ,or even if you don’t a 15 or 20 amp breaker is in yourcircuit breaker panel. and as mentioned before. IFI Audio has plugintothe wall and power strip forprotection as well as purifying for $100each, digital a bit more and workwell.
You have to wonder though, your paying $100 for a "special magic" fuse but yet they can't even get the current rating that it blows at right??! Something that the 3$ bussman has had nailed for 30 years???!! But yet they are supposed to sound waaaaaaaaay better..... 🙄Right
Most fuses offer 30 day guarantee. So, what are you waiting for? Besides I already told you how to improve whatever run of the mill fuse you already have.
When I got my my modded Hafler DH-220, they had cryo-treated, ceramic audiophile fuses. I melted them pushing Maggie MMGs at moderate volume playing mostly jazz music. Go figure. I replaced them with standard glass fuses because it's what I had on hand, and they worked fine (same amp rating). Then I read about standard ceramic fuses offering a slight increase in SQ, so I swapped out for them. I DID notice a slight improvement in SQ, and stopped there. Ceramics are fine with me. ALL of my research - which was considerable - had electricians and electrical engineers suggesting that using fuses with SMALL increases in suggested amp ratings posed little problem, and wasn't worth dithering over. Would you want to replace a 6.3A with a 15A? Or even a 10A?Probably not.But an 8A shouldn't present a problem if your original fuse was 6.3.I would hazard an educated guess that that little 8A fuse will blow long before you run the risk of ...................burning down the house. I agree with almarg and auxinput.
Thanks for all the input.As for the 30 day guarantee by the time you have fuses burned in enough to clearly hear a difference good or bad the grace period would probably be voided and be stuck with a fuse that wasn't a good match for the amp.
john421 OP Thanks for all the input.As for the 30 day guarantee by the time you have fuses burned in enough to clearly hear a difference good or bad the grace period would probably be voided and be stuck with a fuse that wasn't a good match for the amp.
>>>>Geez, you’ve got an excuse for everything. I declare thee a troll!
@john421 Perhaps it's too late, but another place in Canada you may check next time is Audiyo. Pretty sure they are in the GTA, but all my purchases from them have been online, so can't be sure. Steven at Audio Sensibility has an awful lot of electronics stock in his home, Although as a cable manufacturer, I don't know if he is in the market to sell any of the non-cable parts he has. Can't hurt to ask though.
Audiophile fuses are just a euphemism for sucker fuses. There is no difference between fuses of the same rating and type. Littlefuse or Buss are two reputable brands that are good enough for life support systems and NASA, so they are damn well good enough for anyone else.
Uh, the special advanced fuses NASA uses are not the same ones as the compsnies’ Stock fuses, silly. They are more like the aftermarket fuses audiophiles prefer. Nice try.
Any fuse supplied to NASA or any other Aviation Enterprise must be tested and supplied with documentation detailing repeated tests detailing that it works as intended. Hardly the case of all the BS that souround “Audiophile” fuses. The kind of testing and documentation that is provided by reputable companies like Bussman and Littlefuse
pop quiz Geoff, how much documentation has any of the audiophile fuse makers provided?
Quick answer, there's "SR Black Fuses encompass our latest understanding of passive Quantum Inductive Coupling and are our most powerful fuses to date. In addition to a proprietary conditioning process followed by a 1,000,000 volt signal we call Quantum Tunneling that alters conductive pathways within the burn wire, we add a Quantum Inductive Surface that includes Graphene to stabilize the electrical wave feeding your system for a dramatic improvement in system performance over standard and audio-grade fuses."
For sure, replace my space shuttle's fuses with these.
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