Quality outlets for non-audio

Leviton was my least favorite when redoing our apartment approx. 18 years ago.

I purchased a box of Hubbell 8200 and 8300 outlets (like new pulls) and used  some of the 8200's for regular outlets.

I also used some Arrow-Hart, Eagle and P&S outlets left over from HiFi experimentation.

All the above had a much stronger grip than the Leviton's I tried, plus I was replacing old Levitons that were worn/loose.

DeKay

PS:

Read current reviews as things change.

I need to replace a 19 month old Delta kitchen faucet that's developing pinholes and other leaks.

The previous one (same model) lasted 8 years.

DeKay

DeKay for what it's worth I've had very good luck with Moen for both kitchen and bath fixtures.

Eric I replaced all of our outlets 15 years ago.I don't remember the brand, but I just chose the brand that felt and looked sturdy from HomeDepot. They still grip tightly, even the ones used most often.

I think all of the manufacturers make contractor-grade devices, and that's what I avoid. The better devices grip better and are more durable, but they cost more than the cheapie units. Hubbell and Leviton have both served me well.

Well, I'd like to stick to relatively affordable outlets.  Say $5 to $10 a piece.

The nearly $20 a piece Hubbell's are way over my budget for basic appliance needs. :) 

TR is fine.  I don't mind paying extra to get up to code, though I have no children to worry about playing around with paper clips in outlets here. 

I meant to say this house was about 15 years old.  It was built in 2006, I guess the TR requirement got added in 2008 so they just missed the cutoff.

jtcf:

Thanks, I’ll look @ Moen (both bathrooms could use new fixtures as well).

I have a spare/complete Delta unit for the kitchen, plus a spare spout.

I don’t recall the P&S specific model numbers, but think they were from the 53XX series.

The main problem I was experiencing was with older lamps (1920’s-1940’s).

I replaced the sockets, but kept the Art-Deco power cords and plugs (the blades on the plugs are a bit thin).

Erik:

I use a 50’ extension cord on our vacuum cleaner as regardless of the outlet I tended to pull the plug (problem solved).

PS:

Didn't realize the Hubbells were so expensive (I paid around $80 for 26 pulls).

DeKay

Well, it doesn't really matter how I use extension cables.  I have a canister vac with plenty of cord in it. Regardless of that, some of my outlets have so little grip gravity alone will cause any plug to fall out.  Time to start replacing them as I find them.

The first ones I replaced were the ones behind bookshelves, sofa, bed and other heavy furniture.

Glad I did it back then as I'm not up to the heavy moving now (18 years later).

We rent but the quality of most landlord repairs is so lacking that I prefer to do it myself if possible.

Loose outlets arc (micro-arc) so what you are doing is well worth the effort.

DeKay

Second the Leviton commercial grade. Also, when replacing outlets rewire them to the outlet screws if the old ones are connected to the push in connectors in the back. Those connections have considerable resistance and can cause power quality issues.

Hospital grade are not to expense get them be a sport.

I agree with @ebm, Leviton makes hospital grade outlets, and they weren't expensive. 
It is what I use now.
Bob

I second the Hubbell recommendation, put a few in my folks place. Leviton has been find for me so far, but the ones I replaced were Leviton. Just installed some Acme Audio outlets for audio, TV and computer rooms. Now those suckers are TIGHT.

+1 to @jea48 comments. In particular, what is important is that the outlets be spec grade (usually so labeled) rather than contractor grade (often unlabeled). Contractor grade are the ones you can buy at Home Depot for 35c each. They don't last. The brand of outlet is secondary to the importance of buying spec-grade ones.

I find TR outlets a pain in the a$$, but I suppose they keep small kids and stupid people safer. Once you get the hang of them, they're not so bad.

Well for this particular application any hospital grade outlet is far more than I need.

Commercial grade, tamper resistant is going to be more than enough for me.

I would suggest you buy a few of these as well. Install the main body of the bracket on the duplex receptacle neutral connection side. (See photos left side of bracket)

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RACO-1-Gang-Flush-Fit-Wall-Plate-Spacer-3-Pack-999X/304353271

Thanks @jea48 those look nice!