Power conditioner help


Hi All,

 Posting this here since there is no section devoted to power products. I also posted it in the miscellaneous section. 

If you had a choice between PS Audio P10 power plant and a Transparent Powerisolator Reference, which would you choose and why? Both available at reasonable prices, though P10 is still quite a bit more. I have a pretty high end system with a Musical Fidelity NuVista 800 integrated amp, NuVista CD (the new one), Scoutmaster turntable, SDS/ADS, Herron VTPH2, Wilson Sashas, and all Transparent Ref MM2 cables. System sounds great, but my present Powerbank 8 is quite old now, so I want to upgrade it.

Thanks for your opinions.
arsh

Yes, I have. I actually used to run all Hubbell outlets and Hubbell 20A male plugs for all my home theater equipment. I was experimenting with power connectors on my separate computer audio system and put in a Wattgate male plug. All of a sudden, I said "hey, this sounds just like sound I’m getting out of my theater". It was not a good sound - it was very fast, but very shouty and sterile. Just a single Wattgate plug in the mix caused this problem (I had 4 devices - DAC, preamp, 2 studio monitors). The Wattgate connectors and the Hubbell connectors/outlets all have one thing in common - brass conductors. I have since swapped out all my Hubbell outlets/plugs with Furutech FPX unplated copper outlets and Furutech FI-11 unplated copper male plugs. I use all Rhodium plated Furutech FI-52 and FI-50 IEC connectors for my equipment. All this was a significant improvement.

I have put more comments in this thread:

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/furutech-vs-neotech-gold-plated-schuko-sound-quality

Don’t get me wrong, at $20-24 per plug, the Wattgate are "decent" plugs, but they do not compare at all to the Furutech pure-copper stuff. Since your considering several thousand for a power conditioner, a $70 FPX(Cu) outlet is not any big expense and I would say it will significantly improve things.

Be aware, the rhodium plated stuff require 250 hours burn-in.  And they don't fully open up until somewhere between 300-400 hours.

I did a lot of research into this subject and can't help but feel the the Furman P2400 IT is the way to go. The price point is very competitive.

 http://www.furmansound.com/product.php?div=01&id=P-2400IT 
Thanks auxinput. Have you been able to compare the Hubbell and Furutech outlets? One of the guys at Transparent recommended the Hubbell to me.

@arsh - I just read a bit more.  I see now that you like to plug your integrated straight into the wall.  I don't think you need a P10 just for all the source equipment, a P5 would do just fine.

Also, I would get rid of that Hubbell outlet and replace it with something like a Furutech.  The Hubbell's are made from brass elements and this presents a shouty and sterile sonic signature.  I'd go for a Furutech FPX or GTX (either un-plated copper or rhodium plated).

emailists
If you want to contact me I can tell you more about why I chose that power conditioner over others after extensively reviewing the options.
Why not please share that info with the entire forum? Isn't that what these forums are for?

I recently brought in the Audioquest Niagra power conditioner for our dealership demo system here in NYC.  

If you want to contact me I can tell you more about why I chose that power conditioner over others after extensively reviewing the options.

triodepicturesound.   

Any PC that doesn’t regenerate the AC wave form is a waste of time and money IMO. I wouldn’t run my systems without PS Audio AC regenerators and have been using them since 2000 when I first bought the original model to plug my sources and preamp into. They make a huge improvement in soundstage and reduced noise. In fact I will go so far to say that, if you have invested considerable coin in a quality audio system and you're not using one of these, you are in denial as to what your system can really do.
My recommendation is to try to audition both units in your system and hear the effects.  First for sound quality, second to eliminate ground loops and third to significantly lower the noise floor.  This is what I have found to happen.

I have tried PS audio devices, not the P10 but others and also the Transparent Audio device.  I noticed significant improvement by using the Transparent Audio device.

Also, I have found it helpful to plug all the low level signal devices (pre-amp, TT, tuner, CD player, DAC, etc.) into the conditioner and that plugged into its own dedicated line.

The amps are plugged into their own dedicated lines without conditioning.

I have a raised foundation house and therefore, it was relatively easy to run complete dedicated lines to the listening room from the AC panel.

I can't speak for the new PS Audio P10 device, but if you are seriously interested, I would demo them both in your system.

For equipment that costs as much as these do, I would have a real problem with dealers that would not allow me to take them home for a few days for an in-home demonstration/audition.  My favorite store would simply take your credit card information when allowing this, so if you decided you wanted to keep the item, they already have the information.  If not, you simply return it.

enjoy


Asked because you seemed to be agreeing with michaela's comment by stating " I wouldn't disagree with that" ; or did you mean to state that you disagree ?  
So are you okay with Herron Audio now or still wouldn't buy their product for not offering the OP opinions?
I think all the designers and manufacturers know what works best with their system and unless you are a close personal friend, they won't tell you for fear that it will be splashed all over the internet in forums such as these.
I stick all of my tube amplification in the wall, but I do have stable power, that I determined from the display of my PS Audio regenerator which I removed. For my digital gear and TT motor controller, I use a Brick Wall protector, but someday that may change. Plus, I have a whole-house surge protector and dedicated audio circuits.

However, in my old house with fluctuating power and a couple of noisy circuits, the PS Audio regenerator improved the sound with my previous amplifier. So, my advice is to first analyze your power and setup, before choosing to spend your dollars on this one or that one.
Kenny


I would not be interested in motivations or particulat ideas that lead to actions like that. Yes, they are paid salesmen, just of a different kind. In your example he actually might've had no idea and didn't want to say it.
Inna- The bottom line is many companies do not want to recommend other products because there not paid salesman.  A few years back I was interested in a Coda CSI- B and Doug was not able or willing to discuss any synergy with a KEF- 205/2
Being an iconic speaker you would assume he had an opinion

Still, thank you. I will never consider his products. Surely he knows what works well with his electronics. And if he doesn't this is very strange.
Thanks auxinput. That is really helpful.
Inna, I must respectfully disagree. Keith Herron is extremely helpful and always willing to answer questions and give advice when he can. His customer service has been exemplary. 

The PS Audio P10 is not a standard power conditioner since it takes the A/C voltage coming in and uses DSP to generate it's own "perfect" A/C sine wave for output using a normal power amplifier.  Many people have had excellent results with the PS Audio regenerators and have reported significant improvement over conventional power conditioners.  Normally, I would just recommend that you go with the P10 for all source/preamp equipment and then run the amplifiers directly to the wall (since the P10 has generally made more of a difference with source/preamp pieces and less of a difference with power amplifiers).  The P10 does have 1500 watts of A/C output and I would say it's good for smaller type amplifiers.

However, you have an extremely hefty integrated there (330 watts/channel and about 103 lbs).  Also, your Wilson Sasha's have a demanding impedance curve and drops down to 2-3 ohms in the 70-300 hz area.  This will put more demand on the amplifier and you need a lot of current on demand from both the amp and the A/C input.

http://www.stereophile.com/content/wilson-audio-sasha-wp-loudspeaker-measurements#I1KGxHkW4v8MMPtS.97

I hate to say this, but I might suspect that the Transparent may do better here because it will not be as current limiting.  The PS Audio P10 may have a little delay when the amp demands more current from the A/C and you may lose bass/midbass punch and body.

This may sound odd but in this case I would replace Herron with another brand and leave everything else as it is. He is not a man I would want to deal with - he was most unhelpful. Thank you for telling us.

I did. Aside from saying that power conditioners can make a big difference, he had no experience with these particular units, nor did he recommend any in particular.
Thanks Inna. I can't really try both--I have to pick one without in-home trial. I've upgraded just about everything else significant to my satisfaction. Once I get this done, there's not much I want to do at the moment. 
Why not try both ? It's impossible to be sure in advance. Besides, it may be just different, not better or worse.  Another approach is not to upgrade or upgrade something else.
I have PS Audio Power Plant Premier, and it works great in my system. Voltage in my apartment can fluctuate from 113 to 125 within an hour, so I needed a voltage stalilizer in addition to conditioner. 
I run my amp into the wall--20A dedicated circuit with Hubbell outlets. I like it better that way. But the other gear sounds better to me into the Powerbank.